A Howling Story of the Land

Ca’ Lojera
Lugana DOC 2019
100% Turbiana
Organic (just not certified) and hand harvested
Rovizza di Sirmione, Brescia, Italy
Owners and winemakers: Ambra and Franco Tiraboschi

Bright yellow with some green shimmer. Reminds me of the colors of my childhood bedroom. For those of you who know me, no, I did not have a goth bedroom. Beautiful scents of pears mixed with yellow apples, white peaches, honeysuckle, honeydew, a salty breeze, and wet granite. Sipping crisp and sweet pears, golden delicious apples, light peach paired with honeydew, and a small squeeze of lemon, maybe even just a wedge on the side of your glass. There’s also that salty bit again, a lick of that clean wet granite, and in the end there’s an oomph of dried sage, thyme and smoke that waves in and out

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Boom this becomes more exotic

Now this is a house with a heritage and local tales. Back in the 13th century, it was a summertime home for the Bishop of Verona, but the more interesting story is told by the locals. Once upon a time, it was a smugglers’ hangout that was guarded by wolves. Can you imagine the intrigue? So when Ambra and Franco decided to purchase the place, Ca’ Lojera (House of the Wolf) was the perfect name. From what I’m finding, they lucked out with these 30 to 40 year old vines and then fell into winemaking when they couldn’t find a buyer for the grapes. Well, seems like a perfect happy accident to me. They certainly have honed their craft over the years, and as they say on their site, “Every day we work to differentiate ourselves, be unique and innovative in our project of producing only wines that tell the story of our land.” Let that wolf keep on creating and belting out that new beautiful part of history for years to come!

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Returning to the Start and Beginning Again

Buli
Estate 44 2016
Toscano Rosso IGT
Siena Italy
Sangiovese 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot 10% and Syrah 10%
Organic, hand harvested, and 70% Unilateral Cordon-spur trained (cane pruned) and 30% Guyot
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

A shining garnet/ruby glass. Greeted by scents of dark cherries, deep plum, cola, and vanilla that daintily lingers and then hides and then pops back out to surprise you. There’s also earth, pine trees and needles. I feel like I’m walking through an enchanted forest. All sorts of flavors hit at first sip, so give it a little and enjoy cherries, plums, blackberries, raspberries, earth and cherry pit dark goodness, along with a shake of white pepper. This is a light bright velvety juicy red that as time goes by starts heading toward medium and can stand up and stand by to a fabulous plate of D.O.C. Wine Bar’s, Chef Stefano Baldantoni’s Lamb Chops.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out a velvet oak dancing with the cherries and plums

This is my second dance with Estate 44. Almost a year ago, I met Buli’s 2015, and have worked my way through their whole collection, and they are consistently fabulous and fascinating. They capture Podere Collalto’s (Farm on a High Hill) essence and romance. Estate 44 is especially dedicated to the Allied soldiers that liberated Tuscany, and those that did not make it back. Thank goodness, Robert’s father made it back to the States, and brought along with him a beautiful Italian wife after an adventure that included a search for wine and a strong love at first sight that even involved reenlisting in order to get permission for the marriage. For more on that check out Ruby Velvet Romance. I’m so grateful to have been able to see Italy through Robert’s eyes and writings, and taste the wonders that can come from his 5 hectares of the world. And I will add once more, someone needs to make a movie of how this family’s whole story and Robert’s wines have played out. This bottle was like a return home for me. Cheers to them all and to what the future brings!

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Wine with a View

Les Crêtes
Pinot Nero 2019
Valle d’Aosta D.O.P.
100% Pinot Nero
Guyot trained, hand harvested, ladybugs, and only stainless steel
Aymavilles, Valle d’Aosta, Italy
Winemaking Family: Charrère family (Costantino, Imelda, and their daughters Elena and Eleonora)

Shiny ruby ring pop color. Oh this smells delicious…caramel buttery, raspberries, plums, earth, dark cherry, cola, magnolias (how I miss climbing my great aunt’s massive tree), and maybe vanilla or sugar cookies. Dancing on my tongue are plums with some earthiness, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, and a tiny bed of herbs like singed sage. It’s a juicy dry wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: adds smoke and plummy floral goodness

The Charrère family was originally from France but packed up in the 1700s for Valle d’Aosta. Starting off as a farm and mill, the generations carried on with planting vineyards, making flour and cider, and when Constantino’s father Antoine came along he eventually turned to redeveloping and enlarging the vineyards. Constantino is now carrying on his parents work (even though he had the fun job of gym and ski instructor) along with his wife and kids, and they have made Les Crêtes into the estate it is now. All of their hard work, passion and nurturing rare indigenous grapes has brought them critical acclaim and awards. One thing on their site really makes me smile. Their daughters would go out to catch ladybugs to police the vineyard from other pests. Oh and I would be remiss not to mention their beautiful “Il Rifugio del Vino” designed by Domenico Mazza. Created as a modern mountain hut, it houses a library on wine, an area for tasting and just a beautiful place to chill and take in the breathtaking view.

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Small But Powerful

La Ganghija
Langhe D.O.C. Chardonnay 2018
100% Chardonnay
Only stainless steel tanks used, bottles made by Albeisa that are lighter on the environment
Treiso, Piemonte, Italy
Winemaker: Enzo Rapalino

Shiny gold with a little grassy green. Breathing in honeysuckle, lilacs, peach blossoms, peaches, pears, and golden delicious apples. Oh this is dreamy! Cue Franz Schubert’s “Trio in E-Flat” from The Hunger. Sipping sweet pears, peaches, honeydew, smoke, a little squeeze of citrus, and alick of granite. Thank you so much for letting the grape sing. Stainless steel and Chardonnay are sooooo good together.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: not bad. It sharpens all the flavors.

La Ganghija’s vineyards have been around in the family for eons, but they were selling their grapes. It took Enzo Rapalino (and his family) to jump into the business of creating their own wine. His enthusiasm for his land and the place where he grew up led him to studies in wine and in 2004, their dream took root. I love how he picked the name La Ganghija because in Piemontese it means vine tendril which to them represents “small but powerful”. Well, this little start has now grown to have vineyards that reach from Trieso to Magliano Alfieri and Madonna di Como (Alba). The family venture has an extended one too that is “Langa Style”. Enzo and 4 other guys from Langhe all studied oenology in Alba, and now bond together as friends and independent winemakers. They support each other, promote each others’ wines, and believe it’s better to be colleagues instead of rivals. That sort of friendly and professional camaraderie is beautiful.

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Hands Off Creativity

Vigne del Pellagroso
Light White 2019
Field blend of Garganega 45%, Riesling 45%, and Moscato 10%
Monzambano, (near Garda’s Lake, Mantova, Lombardia), Italy
Chemical free, organic, biodynamic, Guyot training, indigenous yeasts, no cellar manipulation, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemaker: Antonio “Billy” Camazzola

Golden from the 3 day skin contact. Sigh, I would love a ring like that. Day two it appears even darker, or is it just me? So let this baby warm up a little to get the full scents of apricots, Red Delicious apples, pears, salt, orange blossoms that turn into lilacs and back again, a little mandarin, honeysuckles, and ginger. At first sip it’s a giant wow! There’s just so much going on.There’s peaches, apricots, yellow plums both sweet and tart, salt, crisp like you’re biting into a not completely ripe green apple. a twist of lemon, smidge of cardamom, white pepper and a little forest floor touch. Not overpowering…just like a pleasant walk through a fern filled wonderland.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Nope don’t do it unless you want it to all go sour.

This is my first solo Antonio Camazzola wine (other 2 were paired with Andrea Marchetti), so here’s his story. Last time had to chop it up for IG. He started small when he was still in the restaurant business. Found a little bit of land that needed a LOT of love, and worked hard at making this chemical free. His “Vigne del Pellagroso” name also came from nearby where a long gone newspaper. Il Pellagroso was only around from 1884 to March of 1885, when it was shut down due to their director being arrested for being on the side of human rights, justice and proper working conditions which stirred up local farmers to strike. Needless to say the govt. wasn’t happy. It’s a fitting name for Billy’s wine since he’s so dedicated to biodynamic, organic and bucking the norm. He’s expanded over time, added in veggies, grains and flowers to make the bees happy, and still kept it green, natural, and bio! Bravo on your hands off creativity of the Light White! So happy I was able to snag one of the 2,000.

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Art Comes in All Forms

Amalia Cascina
Rossese Bianco 2017
Rossese Bianco 100%
Langhe DOC
Hand harvested
Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy
Winemaking Team: Paolo Boffa, Gianpiero Romana (agronomist), Piero Ballario (enologist), and Maria Angela Boffa (mom, runs the B&B)

Light straw like the miller’s daughter wove into gold. Breathing in honey, pear, summer savory, and light cinnamon. What a nice start, that blends into delicious growing flavors of pear, Rainier cherries, yellow plums, golden delicious apples (perfectly ripe), white raisins, smoke, salt, again light cinnamon now with a tad of clove, shortbread, and light oak with a dried Turkish fig finish. How else can I put this…it’s like drinking Klimt’s, “Bauerngarten”.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: NO it totally ruins it

The Boffa family found the perfect farmhouse in 2003, that came with some pretty great vineyards. They’ve expanded a bit more in vines and winery, but from all I see on their site, I would have thought this had been passed down forever through the family and updated to modern times. It is so gorgeous (well it is set in an UNESCO World Heritage Site) and there’s a B&B with a pool. Most importantly though, thank you for being one of the lucky few cultivating Rossese Bianco. How such a unique delicious grape could come close to vanishing is amazing. One more reason to say thank goodness for the 70s (along with some fab music) when it was resurrected. Also I’m reading that not only do they have a deep appreciation for beauty in many forms such as the land, the grapes, but also a very cool art collection and some of it is on view. Going through their slides now and they really do have some serious work, just wish I could see them in person, especially the 3 panel blue wall piece. It looks like if you stared at it long enough you would become drawn into and never to be seen again. Gorgeous!

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Aperitivo Time!

Punta Crena
Pettirosso Colline Savonesi 2018
Colline Savonesi IGT
50% Rossese, 50% Crovino
Sparkling Liguria Wine
Savona, Liguria, Italy
Organic (not certified, but it should be), indigenous grapes, saignée
Winemakers: Tommaso Ruffino & Family

Sunset streaked orange with tiny bubbles. As the saying goes, red skies at night, sailors delight”. Pop that cork, and there’s smoky scents, heady floral, orange and orange blossoms, peaches, lychees, mandarins, strawberries, creaminess and tarragon. Sipping and there’s strawberries, raspberries, a splash of blood orange, mango, papaya, a drop of cherry, and flowers keep blooming. Has an aperitivo hour cocktail feel…you know with the tiniest drop of dry of bitters. Bring on the prosciutto, sunshine, people watching and a warm breeze!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it a massive fruit smash up cocktail! Transports me to the tropics

Punta Crena’s vineyards have been in the family for over 500 years and not much has changed over the years. Here’s the perfect quote that sums it up on Kermit Lynch’s site: “Ask Paolo if the family follows organic methods in the vineyards and he’ll laugh. We’re not “organic,” he says as if you had asked about some crazy new technology. We just do everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. They even build their stone terraces by hand, using the method established here three thousand years ago.” They also work with indigenous grapes, like Crovino which if it wasn’t for this family’s dedication, it might not exist anymore because it’s a low yielding brat. One more thing you might notice about this rosé bubbly, it’s a bit more on the dark side due to the saignée method or bleeding. The extra juice left post skin contact (the bleeding) is what you’re looking at and loving right now. This is a bottle you want to kiss and keep a back up in the fridge.

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Rugged, Handsome and Clooney

Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte
Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2019
100% Sangiovese
Hand-harvested
Scansano, Tuscany, Italy
Owner (since 1999) and artist: Sandro Chia; Winemaker: Filippo Chia

Glowing shiny translucent ruby. Rich beautiful dark cherry, prunes, and Mission fig aromas blended with earthiness and wet granite post a good summer rain. Sipping plums, cherries, dried figs (my favorite splash of richness), blueberries and earthy; yet it’s still bright, sweet, a smooth groove with just a touch of rugged handsomeness. Kind of like George Clooney. Yep, I’m drinking a glass of Clooney.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: deeper darkness goodness of lush flavors

Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte (Ice Fort, no this is not a GOT reference) has 20 hectares with 12 of those hectares in Morellino di Scansano located right next to the National Park of the same name and is the remains of an Etruscan city. So the tale of their iconic little handsome sculpture head on their labels, comes from an Etruscan sculpture that was stumbled upon or should I say driven over. One of their tractors, broke through the surface of the land into a cavern/tomb where this ancient sculpture was found. I can just imagine the excitement on the find, and the irritation and potential cursing of having to pull the tractor back out. Back to the wine, before 2018, their Sangiovese was blended with 15% Syrah. That’s now a thing of the past. Their 100% Sangiovese doesn’t touch oak, it’s stainless steel fermentation and 2 weeks of it with the skin on. It’s a genuine expression of itself, the history of this land, and the travelers and traders who have passed through its many years. Beautiful, distinguished, passionate, and still a historic wine that lives and has adapted in modern times.

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The Little Grape That Could

Vinica
Lame del Sorbo 2015
Tintilia del Molise DOC
100% Tintilia
Ripalimosani, Molise, Italy
Organic, indigenous yeasts, guyot trained, dry farmed, green manure, hand picked, not filtered, and NO chemicals
Owner: Rodolfo Gianserra, Agronomist and winemaker: Pierluigi Cocchini, Company’s administrator: Giuseppe Tudino

Deep purple with blue tints. Tart cherries start tickling my nose, then blood orange, kumquat, a few pieces of hay, smokiness, and beautiful berries…raspberries and blueberries. First sip is a sizzle and tingle. Wow! Dark cherry, dried figs, plums, smoke and thyme. As it rolls around there’s Italian Green Cerignola pits, slight hay that I bet will leave and it does and day two was fully gone. When I exhale post sip there’s juniper berries. It’s like forest floor funk meets Riccola, but in a really good delicious way.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more dried fruit and dark juicy as well

Vinica or VI.NI.CA. was established in 2007 by the above three guys, and the name came from Rodolfo’s 3 kids names: Vittorio, Nicholas and Carola. I love all I’m reading about how they took abandoned land and created this beautiful pure farm/vineyard of 220 hectares (30 hectares for the vineyards, the rest are farm and woodland). They say the only ingredient they have added is healthy grapes. Well, I’m sure they aren’t thinking of the other ingredients of hard work and love. They planted the Tintilia in 2008, and I’m so glad they did. This little indigenous grape (the little grape that could) is only in Molise and received it’s DOC in 2010. It has a history of lower yields than others and potential issues with disease, so there was a worry it might get lost, but Molise (and the agronomist Giuseppe Mogavero) didn’t give up on it and here we are with 11 hectares in Vinica. Kind of gives me goosebumps that I’m tasting a part of Italy I’ve never been, and wants me to hug Rodolfo and Pierluigi for not placing this beautiful wine in oak. Thank you for letting me get to know a small ancient yet new to me grape in its pure form.

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Memories of Lives, Memories of Vines

Quartomoro
CRG
Memorie di Vite 2018
Red Wine
100% Carignano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, bush-trained vines, indigenous yeast, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Deep ruby with garnet rim. Roses bloom before your nose and as it opens butterfly lilacs, salt/sea breeze, figs, plums, cherries, and balsamic. Ok, maybe I’m crazy but it reminds me a little or Chef Stefano Baldantoni’s balsamic reduction which I am so in love with and could eat a vat. Tasting tart cherry mixed with that lovely balsamic reduction. There’s also blood orange zest, dried figs, dried oregano, salt, dates, and a dark, deep velvety richness. As it continues to grow…sweet, fragrant, smooth fine silk that’s not a princess…it’s a regal, rich, well dressed queen that in the end is draped in heavy tapestry garments.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sweet and smooth

When we can travel again, my frequent flier points are definitely leaning toward Italy (sorry Spain even though you know how much I love you). How many Sardinian wines (this is my 4th Quartomoro) have I fallen for and this 100% Carignano really pulls me. I have a huge thing for Carignano from being at times a blending grape to an elevation and respect of a solo, which is what Piero and Luciana are doing with their Memorie di Vite project. This grape is so fragrant and has such depth when grown and treated right. Quartomoro’s ungrafted pre filloxera vineyard (in Sulcis) was originally planted back in 1967 (before I was born) by a family friend and has zero chemicals messing with it. What a exquisite expression they’ve managed to capture through love and care of this historic, native grape. Ok, that does it. I’m changing my Babbel subscription back to Italian, and when the time comes my bags will be packed. Ciao!

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