Where Time Stands Still

Bodegas Frontonio
Microcósmico
Garnacha 2024
Organic, biodynamic, native yeasts, horse plowed vineyards
Alpartir, Zaragoza, Aragón, Spain
Fernando Mora MW & winemaking partner Mario López

Bright shining ruby. Sniffing & there’s cherries, raspberries, cool fresh mineral smell from our old spring house, plums dark & light, pomegranate, whiff of gingerbread as time goes by a  moment of Oreo center/vanilla way in the back & before you know it…it’s gone, & strawberries.All the scents are there but w a bright light kick that’s so uplifting, boysenberry, & lick of a singed orange peel lip vibrating tingle. This is a wine you want to put on repeat.

Pairs w Cheez-Its: YES

This wine was recommended by a friend since it’s fabulous but also for what she had to say on meeting Fernando. She says from 1st hand experience he’s genuinely a nice guy who will pitch in to help someone he even just met. We need more people like him in the world. Anyway, Mora didn’t grow up in the wine world. His original studies & career were in engineering. Later he fell for wine, & his 1st foray into making it was in his bathtub (actually he had a micro-winery in a room in his apartment & the ferment temp was a bit high so he put the containers in a mix of water & ice to cool in the tub). His enthusiasm, handwork, passion & creativity led him to being one of the few MWs in Spain (he passed on his 1st try) & also kicking off their winery Frontonio in Alpartir. I love what he says on his blog about how living in this town changed everything. “It’s not just where I work, it’s how I live. Slow cooking, using local produce, getting to know the people & their stories, becoming part of a small community where everything has a history. Falling in love with a place without even realizing it. Here, time doesn’t flow, it stands still. And that, for someone as active as me, has been one of the greatest lessons of my life…That contrast between speed and slow time isn’t always easy, but I think that’s where the balance lies. Having time to take care of yourself, to enjoy, to observe. Because you have to know how to observe.” 🍷

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Sun-kissed Glass of Joy

Maison Idiart
Sauvignon Blanc 2024
Sancerre AOP
Sancerre, France
Winemaker & founder: Nicolas Idiart

Light straw yellow with a touch of gold. There’s nose tickling grapefruit, Valencia orange, lemon, & a citrus blend with zest & all, orange blossoms, light spring flowers, and fresh cut grass with just cut & stripped apple branches. All of the scents are in the sip with a bigger spark of everything, parsley, smidge of fresh picked oregano, tangelo, good lick of lime, gooseberries, and a shake of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NO

This is now my 3rd bottle by Maison Idiart. 1st was the Pinot Noir 2022, which was quite a delight and a wonderful introduction to Nicolas’ achievements, his “modern day wine company” that works with select natural growers whose grapes sing from where they are born, and passion for reducing carbon footprints with their “keg wines”. Albeit this is not a wine on tap, but it’s a bottled burst of Spring sliding into Summer that is a sun-kissed splash of joy that I need right now. While sipping a glass, I can almost hear a dawn chorus of migrating birds twittering & warbling away! 🪺

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“Social Solidarity”

Vite Colte
La Luna e i Falò 2022
Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore
Vineyards at least 15 years old, low yields, hand harvested, integrated or organic viticulture
Barolo (CN), Italy

Deep ruby/maroon with lightened edges. Breathing in cherry, touch of vanilla, raspberries, strawberries, violets, anise/licorice, and red currants emerge over time. Tickling my tongue are all sorts of cherries, pinch of vanilla, brambly blackberries, licorice, raspberries, strawberries, black currants, and cranberry. It’s a tingle tangle of dry even with all the fruit, and it’s wild and elegant at the same time.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so darn good

Vite Colte is not only known for their wines but also the design of their winery. Gianni Arnaudo’s award winning architectural creation embraces modern styles along with incorporating itself into its surroundings. As Arnaudo says “Vote Colte is a cultural message in its own right, visually summarizing the many transformations carried out in the Barolo area to ensure that production takes place in a way that is environmentally sustainable.” The winegrowers included in this group must adhere to either Integrated defense (sustainable) or organic viticulture. Beyond the vines they also use lighter weight bottles (helps lower their carbon footprint), recycled paper (office & packaging), 20% of their electricity comes from renewable energy, and native trees are planted in. “green areas” to encourage & protect biodiversity. Another part that is very important in this band of growers, friends & partners is their “social solidarity”. They also very importantly work together for sustainable incomes “small family farms that make up the productive and cultural fabric of Piedmont’s viticulture, those who manage and protect the agricultural landscape” which makes this group one intertwined large family. ❤️🍷

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The Brotherhood Of Vines

Domaine des Frères
Les Moulins de Beau Puy 2020
Chinon AOC
Cabernet Franc
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested at night, indigenous yeasts
Beaumont-en-Véron, Loire,  France
Valentin & Marie Bruneau (husband & wife)

Ruby stained glass. Sniffing and there’s cherries, forest floor that fades over time, lavender, violets, spring flowers, deep plums, blueberries, and a tad of boysenberry. All of the scents are in the sip joined with dried cherries with a touch of earth that add a rustic moment, and a small bouquet garni of thyme, juniper, horehound, marjoram and other herbs. It’s just elegant with a timeless depth that lingers long after the last sip. On day two it’s even better.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: DON’T

Valentin wasn’t always a winemaker. His first career path was in engineering, but his heart really belonged outdoors. He went back to school for a degree (BTS in Viticulture and Oenology), interned with Yvon and Jules Métra, and continued learning from other winemakers. The whole time his wife Marie was supportively by his side and also for the search for their own vineyard. In 2018, they found exactly what they were looking for in Beaumont-en-Véron (11 ha) and the mission was now on. They got help from friends and family with the financing, Valentin’s brother (Henri) came on board in 2019, and they continued with turning the lands organic. Now here’s the part that makes me scratch my head, his brother left for another venture in Oct. 2022. Being my usual curious self, I wondered what happened and found differing comments online but my guess it was amicable since Valentin did keep the name, “Domaine des Frères”. As he says on his site, “I chose to keep the original name of the estate unchanged because I don’t want to erase the past. He was fully in the development and construction of this project. Today the word ‘Frères’ with a capital F incorporates all of those who support us and are the estate’s lifeblood.” Wine can all bring us into a brotherhood, & cheers to celebrating all those that helped shape their vines & wines in the past, today, and the future! 🍷❤️🍇🇫🇷

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A Little Art History

Azienda Agricola Orneta
Centovie 2022
Irpinia DOC
100% Aglianico
Sustainable Agriculture
Ariano Irpino AV, Italy

Deep ruby with shiny glints. Inhaling cherry, plum, light creaminess/vanilla, dried autumn leaves; and as it opens there’s blueberries, blackberries, fresh cut clover, and a smidge of diesel that fades. Sipping and there’s cherries (skins, pits & all), blueberries, raspberries, plums, blackberries, and very ripe strawberries. Even with all this fruit, there’s a dryness & it’s so elegant, and reminds me of days past sitting outside at an in my old favorite haunt just relishing the the sun on my face, conversations with good friends, and passing around appetizers that warm my belly & heart.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: pretty darn good

Orneta dates back to 2013, and is the combined work of 3 families: Pannese, Pizzano, and Cerullo. Their current generation is upholding their grandparents traditions along with a touch of modern times. Speaking of traditions, this wine & its label have led me to another special part of their town Ariano Irpino. They have a long history in ceramics dating back centuries. There’s even a red banded jug (dates to 7-8th c.) found in the Ariano’s castle in 1929, that is now housed in their Museo Civico e della Ceramica. During the 13th-16th centuries plates, flasks, jugs, amphorae, oil lamps, etc became more adorned in plant & geometric designs and also more vibrant colors (cobalt blue, copper green, manganese brown and a little yellow & iron red). By the 17th century the designs, vessels & sculptural objects go even more radiant and detailed. In the 18th & 19th c. the clay works become full throttle over the top with hidden flasks & chalices in the shape of mermaids, sphinx, fish, etc. There’s also lively & spirited centerpieces & salt cellars with polychrome floral decorations & cherubs, tile work, communal serving plates, religious panels, and personal holy water holders. There are no words that I type that can do them justice so take a look at their page @museoceramicaariano. Some of these works might just take your breath away.

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Damm Good Wine

Adega Damm Amandi
Rocoso Vinas Viejas 2020
80% Mencia, 20% Palomino
Organic
Amandi, Ribera Sacra, Spain
Martin Damm

Dark rubilicious purple. Breathing in plums, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, cola, whiff of an Oreo center, an earthiness that grounds it, dried figs, and dark chocolate. All of the scents are in the taste along with blueberries, a sprinkle of spice (cinnamon), pinch of white pepper, smidge of Alpine herb, and singed orange/lemon zest. So smooth, delicious, and bright like a far off twinkling star born from “Rocky Old Vineyards”.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: oh yeah

I love hearing the stories of who people fell into their wine life. Turns out Martin was originally from Denmark and in his youth was already fascinated with learning and absorbing all he could on different countries & regions and how the lands influenced the grapes. Not exactly sure how this next step developed but he ended up being a therapist (curious as to what type) that became a wine importer and later decided to buy his own plots in Ribeira Sacra. His lands are beautiful, majestic…steep hillsides filled with beautiful green leaves. Just check out his IG account because the views are swoon worthy & my favorite is of a young girl atop one of the hills on a swing that looks like she could glide over the vineyards below. Oh who wouldn’t want to live here! Martin also has a great appreciation & knowledge of Burgundy and sees the same vision in Spain. As he says on Grand Cru Selections site, “What is special about it is that each vineyard has its own personality, just like in Burgundy. I like that diversity in the different plots. Each one is different from the other. I know that there is still much to be done and I am sure that there are extraordinary vineyards yet to be discovered. I am convinced that here each vineyard can give you a wine with its own personality. The future that awaits the Ribeira Sacra and therefore its wines is great. I think it is the area with the most potential in Spain and almost in Europe….” 🍷❤️

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When In France…

When In France…
Wandering Barman
White Negroni
Gin, house made blanco vermouth, blanco amaro liqueur, juniper, & water
23% ABV
Brooklyn, NY

Super pale yellow haze. Breathing in pine needles (gin), golden pears & apples, starfruit, cinnamon (holiday vibe) & alpine herbs, fresh mineral water from a spring, white pepper and a pinch of salt. All of the scents are in the sip with that good amaro bite, and a little bit of pine wood.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NO

This cocktail got my curiosity up, so I decided to take myself down a very short rabbit hole. “Punch” had the best summation of this drink’s history. Turns out it was created out of a craving for an “ice cold Negroni”. Nick Blacknell & Wayne Collins were in France for a wine & spirits exhibition along with a cocktail competition. While readying themselves for the next day’s event, the warm weather had them bar hopping looking for the elusive Negroni. After failing on their quest, they decided to make them and headed to the local market only to find not all of the ingredients were available. This sparked the lightbulb moment of while in France why not use their counterparts. Lillet Blanc replaced the usual sweet vermouth and Suze in lieu of Campari. They already had gin and to give it all one more treat they added a wedge of pink grapefruit to the mix. Now after all these years of mixology, Wandering Barman’s portable Brooklyn spin on this drink has me totally crushing on this delicious cocktail.

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Soundtrack Of The Vineyard

Celler de les Aus
Aus
Pét Nat Rosé 2023
Mataró (Monastrell)
Ancestral method, organic
Catalunya, Spain
Mireia Pujol-Busquets

Light bubblegum pink with a flash of magenta and active bubbles. Breathing in strawberries with their caps, leaves & all, slight bit of cream, raspberries, cherries, a little good funk that deepens in a good way & later fades, and a light lemon/tangerine tingle. Everything that has my nose twitching is here minus the funk but with a tad more of a citrus twist/brightness that’s tongue & lip zinging, and a teeny splash of red currant/gooseberry blend. It’s crisp, dry & full of life with an elegant depth, and it’s bringing a brightness to this grey day & heralding in spring filled with joyful birdsongs. 

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Eh I say no

“Celler de les Aus” is a branch of Josep Maria Pujol-Baquests’ “Alta Alella” that is now helmed by his daughter Mireia. She & her family have made as they say, “A pact with nature. Commitment to the product.” They are deeply committed to being organic, sustainable, low intervention, and no sulfites added. The labels ( beautifully depicted by artist Paul Fassen) also celebrate the birds “who sing their melodies to create a soundtrack of the vineyard” and are named after the feathered friends that reside in Serralada de Marina’s Natural Park. Maybe after a few glasses of this pét nat rosé your spirits will lift and you’ll gradually hear them too. 🦜🪺🐦‍⬛

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Preserving History To Make A Better Future

Bodegas Faustino
Cava Brut NV
D.O. Cava Guarda
Macabeo (mostly) & Chardonnay
Sustainable Wineries for Climate Protection (SWfCP)
Oyón (Álava), Spain
Current generation of the Martinez Family: Carmen Martínez Zabala & Lourdes Martínez Zabala

Golden shimmer with very active bubbles. After a few sniffs there’s apples, pears, touch of brioche, fresh from the beehive honey & wax but not overly sweet, cantaloupe, honeydew, and ripe cucumbers. Tasting crisp apples & pears, honeydew, green watermelon rind, splash of lemon, that honey again (not too sweet but just right), a bubbly sizzle, lick of salt, and a delightful longing for how it will grow & bloom over time.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: definitely and bring on a seafood tower too

Bodegas Faustino has over 160 years history in wine, and they were also the 1st winery in Rioja to be certified SWfCP, which is something everyone should be thinking about with how climate change is affecting our world. This designation includes the sustainability of the environment (greenhouse gas emissions, energy efficiency, water & waste management, biodiversity, and healthy soil), sustainable management (proper communication and ethical behavior), ability to change & evolve to benefit the industry, being socially conscious and care about their employees & working partners, make sure their products and work environments are safe, and a part that I am always happy to see…holding onto and preserving traditions & culture, and their lands. When we all put our minds to a similar way of thinking we not only preserve history, but also look forward to a better future. 🥂

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Time To Fire Up That Grill!

Kuentz-Bas
Alsace Blanc 2024
30% Sylvaner, 30% Pinot Blanc, 20% Riesling, 10% Muscat, 5% Pinot Gris, 5% Gewurztraminer
Certified biodynamic & organic
Alsace, France
Owner & vigneron: Jean-Baptiste Adam (father/14th gen) & Laure (daughter/15th gen)

Sniffing and there’s pears, white peaches, a blended splash of mandarin oranges, tangerine, lemon, & kumquats. Then next up tickling my nose are spring fruit tree blossoms (pear, apples, plums, and more), tad of pineapple, gentle honeydew, touch of beeswax fresh from the hive, and that cool & clean springhouse feel. All of those lovely scents are in the sip with honeysuckle, a little kirby, mango, lychee, and that citrus tingle sizzle. It’s one dreamy wine.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: sparky

Kuentz-Bas’ reveal the beauty of their grapes, terroir, and Alsatian heritage. This Alsace Blanc’s pairing suggestions are brats & crab cakes, so I say it’s time to fire up that grill! Actually this domaine got its start from a pairing. First there were the Kuentz from back in 1795 that blended through marriage in 1895 with the Bas family. Now it’s in the hands of Jean-Baptiste Adam (since 2004) and he and his team take great care of their lands and all that inhabit it with their biodynamic ways. If you want a moment of zen, watch this video of them prepping and applying the “Bouse de Corne”. With a workout like that you’ll never need a gym membership and will definitely pump you and your biceps up. 💪 ❤️

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