A Small Delicacy

Domaine des Aubuisières
Vouvray AOC
Brut
100% Chenin Blanc
HVE3 certification, organic
Loire, France
Charles and Menehould Lesaffre

Warm gold with active little bubbles tracing images on the surface. Inhaling an elegant mix of pears (fresh & baked), Fuji & Red Delicious apples, nectarines, white peaches, a gentle reminder of my mom’s lemon squares that were properly cooked & not eggy like other overcooked ones I’ve had, and light honeysuckle blooms. First sip wakes up my mouth with a zing. All of the scents are there in the taste with a tiny drop of citrus tingle. Just crisp, fresh and very addictive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NO

I’m a bit of a magpie when it comes to labels, or at least I love to pay attention to details like this little long beaked bird flying in from the side. I became familiar with this feathered friend, the Bécasse aka Eurasian woodcock, from one of my favorite authors, Martin Walker & his series “Bruno Chief of Police” set in Dordogne, France. Bruno not only solves mysteries/crimes, but he is also an amazing chef. He dearly loves to hunt (along with his Basset Hound) Bécasse and share them with his friends. In “The Dark Vineyard”, during one of his dinner parties, he explains that when the birds are flushed out of the brush & take flight their stomach completely evacuates so this fat tube is a delicacy. Cooked it softens, turns creamy and is supposed to be delicious spread on a baguette. Bruno also grills the birds split down the middle with the head & beak still attached, and some find the “charred head” to be their fave to eat whole…just don’t munch on the beak. 🥂

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A Conversation Sparkler

STEL+MAR
Sparkling Rosé
Barbera, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Syrah
Grapes sourced from sustainable vineyards, always made with 100% California grapes, and eco-friendly packaging
Lodi, California
Founders: Chris Noll & Justin Dumitrescu
Winemaker: Philip Zorn

Light pinky rose tinged gold bubbly. There’s scents of a tiny orchard blossom blend, small mix of fresh picked strawberries & raspberries, and a gentle touch of a cool mineral river rock. Sipping and it’s crisp, bright & light on its feet with again those fresh strawberries & raspberries, a little cherry blush, drop of citrus sparkle with a twinge of Sprite. This is one happy, friendly glass that is sure to spark a conversation.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: I just can’t

STEL+MAR’s wines are easy drinkers with a good heart. They’re meant to bring people together through what’s inside the bottle & outside like the label art by Stephanie Cheng. Check out her work, it’s pretty impressive and there’s a great IG video of her printing process. For those of you who have never worked with screens, there’s a lot to it depending on how many colors are in the piece. Takes me back to my grad school days so much I can almost smell the ink. Now back to the “good heart” part, each bottle of wine sold gives back part of its proceeds to the National Park Trust and in April donations are doubled. When I was a kid, summer vacations entailed the family packing up the station wagon and driving all over visiting as many parks as possible (man, those hot paint pots stink but are so beautiful). My parents wanted to instill in me awe, respect and a love to want to preserve them, and right now is a darn good time to show how much we need our protected lands and everything that grows, resides, or erupts in them. 🏞️🥂

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Wine Worthy Of A Dust-up

Domaine Rimbert
Cousin Oscar
“on se l’arrache”
Cinsault, Pinot Noir
VDF
Organic, indigenous yeasts, vegan friendly
Berlou, Saint Chinian, France
Owner & winemaker: Jean-Marie Rimbert

Bright ruby red. Chill it just a little bit and your nose will be treated to raspberries, cherries, a mellow creaminess, black & blueberry blend, red currants, and a happy scent reminder of a warm dry handmade paper from my printmaking days. The sip is delicious but also has more to it than I thought. It’s fresh & juicy with raspblueblackboysenberry, cherry, violets, touch of hoarhound, black & red currants, orange zest, and smidge of cardamom & black pepper. Easy peasy drinking and oh so friendly. Oscar please bring on Spring weather so I can enjoy you outside.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: YES! Brings out more juicy fruit

I love Rimbert’s wines and that he’s so down to earth, by calling himself a “paysan” or in other words, a peasant…a humble farmer who finds joy in the simple natural things in life and his surroundings. Well, he’s also an artist. Just look at the collage art created from 1950s magazines on the label. Evidently the grinning chap is named after his girlfriend’s cousin, “Oscar”. Sounds like he was all the rage with the ladies, and there may have been some dust-ups over who got to claim him as their’s hence the “on se l’arrache!” that translates to “we’re fighting over him”. Those words fit this wine so well because once you and your friends try it, you’ll be tussling over the last glass.🍷

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“Bring Me a Shrubbery!”

Quinta do Passadouro
Vinho Branco 2019
40% Rabigato, 35% Códega do Larinho, 25% Viosinho
Duoro DOC
Pinhão, Portugal

Yellow/light golden (deepens over time) with a green shimmer. Inhale and there’s gentle scents of pears & apple, gooseberries, lychee, spring flowers, touch of apple blossoms, and a tiny bit of nose tickling citrus zest. Sip and there’s a blend of crisp pears & apples, white peaches, gooseberries, lychee, honeydew, touch of honeysuckle, a little tangerine spritz & zest, and a cool mineral lick & a pinch if salt. It’s fresh & light yet luscious at the same time.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Nah

Doesn’t everyone need a bit of blue shrubbery (especially “Knights Who Say ‘Ni!’” in their life or at least Anagallis Monelli aka Shrubby Pimpernel. These deciduous perennials don’t need a lot of water and can flourish even in a hot dry summer. My bet is that they reside in or around Passadouro’s vineyards, since their other labels (Vinho Tinto) have displayed critters from their locale. Also the flowers’ name “Anagallis” is also derived from Greek “ἀνα” & ἀγάλλειν which translate into “to delight again” because these pretty blossoms close in the evening only to reopen to for the sun so we can enjoy them over & over just like this Branco.

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Bad Bunnies

Bodegas Más Que Vinos
Los Conejos Malditos
Tempranillo Carbónico 2023
100% Cencibel (local clone of Tempranillo)
Working sustainably, farming organic, indigenous grapes, and 1 of the first wineries in Spain to receive “Wineries for Climate Protection” certification
Cabañas de Yepes, Toledo, Spain
Margarita Madrigal, Alexandra Schmedes and Gonzalo Rodriguez

Ruby/purple depth. Breathing in cherries, plums, raspberries, blackberries, a swirl of violets, and over time a tiny grind of white pepper. Hopping out of the glass and onto my tastebuds are cherries (fresh & dried), plums, light raspberry, blackberries, dates & a little dried dark fig, black olive pits, as it opens violets grow but don’t over creep, and oddly a drop of black tea & maybe even a little herbal.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: juicy

This isn’t a buddy movie but a winery. Starting back in 1999, three wine loving/making friends (Margarita, Alexandra & Gonzalo) launched Más Que Vinos (wine consulting business), ventured into winemaking, breathed new life into an old family winery, and built a new modern one. From all of this hard work these friends sound like they have the limitless energy of that certain drumming rabbit with sunglasses. Speaking of cotton tails, sounds like their local ones have a penchant for excellent grapes and can gobble up a lot prior to harvest, hence the name “The Damned Rabbits”. These little bandits may be adorable but I can see where their cuteness wanes and may drive a person to find solutions like on this label. 🍇🐰

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A Glass Of Pure Pleasure

Château Haut Monplaisir
Partie de Plaisir 2022
Malbec
Comté Tolosan IGP
Organic, sustainable
Cahors, France
Cathy & Daniel Fournié and their daughter Mathilde

Dark red maroon with a ruby rim. Sniffing cherries dried & fresh, plums/prune/raisin smash, blackberries, warm spice blend of black pepper grind, smidge of toasted coriander & something I can’t name at the moment; and at last a little woodsy tangle. All of the scents are in the taste with the cherries even a bit more chewy in a good way, black currants, a mineral lick & a little raspberry flirt that winks, plays coy, hides and comes back out every once in a while, and it all goes sleek, elegant, with a sophisticated & glass raising smile.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Most definitely

Back in 1998, Cathy & Daniel took over her father’s vineyards and headed into their Cahors venture with open eyes, a willingness to learn from observing their land, plants & fruits, and also from the wisdom of other acclaimed & seasoned Malbec experts. 2012 marked their official stamp of organic, and not long after in 2015, Mathilde jumped on board the family wine wagon which from this bottle’s name sounds like a “fun party/time” or it could be a nod to a Claude Chabrol flick. Honestly though on Valentine’s Day my heart says it’s all about finding that joyous moment of pleasure and sharing it with the one you love or at least “the one you’re with”. ❤️🍷💋

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Creature Of The Night

Quinta do Passadouro
Vinho Tinto 2019
55% Tinta Roriz, 25% Touriga Francesa, 10% Touriga Nacional, 10% Field Blend from old vines
Duoro DOC
Pinhão, Portugal

Inky maroon with purple pops. Sniff and a little oak dances through & mingles with wildflowers, blackberries, black currants, plums, and a pinch of warm spice & anise. Tasting and there’s dark cherries joining the blackberries, black currants & plums & a red currant or two with a not quite ripe tart raspberry, licorice, and the teeny tiniest of tomato leaf appears & then tells you you didn’t see them…or shhh they were never there it’s all an illusion. Everything smooths out into an elegant, graceful sip. You know…this wine pairs well with a lot, but honestly I want it all to my self solo.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: this is one of those moments of YES!

My first encounter with Passadouro was when I was browsing wine in Montreal and a little Oryctolagus cuniculus hopped in my way. Yes, I was pulled in by the label but not just because of the little Portuguese bunny, but also the artistic details from the drawing & the distinctive zipper-like cut in the design. The next one to flutter in my path was a native game bird, the red-legged partridge (Alectoris rufa) on their Tinto 2012. Now this 2019 red may just be my favorite yet with the sleek, stealth, and agile creature of the night…the Genetta genetta. I wonder if they are part of the natural pest control for their vineyards since they are carnivores. Back to the vineyards/grapes, another reason why I have fallen for these vinhos is their consistent yet somewhat varied blends. They always start with the 3 same grapes: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa, & Touriga Nacional but may not be the same percent depending on the harvest and sometimes (like this one) it’s rounded out with a field blend of old vines. Hands down this bottle is not only a work of art, but it’s also simply delicious. 🍷

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A Beautiful Dream

Domaine François Villard
L’Appel des Sereines 2022
IGP Collines Rhodaniennes
100% Syrah
Certified organic (Ecocert)
Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône, France
Owner & winemaker: François Villard

Ruby red. Sniffing cherries, blackberries, something soft & gentle like violets, grind of black pepper, and a pinch of toasted coriander. Sip and there’s dried & fresh cherries, blackberries, red currants, and again the black pepper. It’s so full of a life, juicy and very mouthwatering. Somebody please bring me a 🍔

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

François’s path into wine started as a chef & over time he became a sommelier which then led to the siren’s call of the vines. Fortunately he had good friends already in the business to show him the ropes and eventually an education & certificate in agriculture with a focus on all things wine (growing & making). Early on he built his skills, grew with experience, and then found his organic & elegant groove over 42 ha. When you check out his site you’re greeted by a pic of his infectious grin that’s so full of life & joy just like the one on my face after a glass of “L’Appel des Sereines”. My bet it is because he has found his own way to happiness. As he says on his site, “My dream would be to produce great wines for aging that we could drink immediately”…well I think that dream is already here. 🍷

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A Family Growing Together & Branching Out

Domaine Labbé 
Abymes 2023
Vin de Savoie AOC
100% Jacquère
Sustainable
Savoie, France
Alexandra and Jérôme Labbe (cousins)

Lovely yellow shine. Sniff and there’s scents of apples, pears, lemon/lime squish, cantaloupe, and a mineral whiff from a spring house. Tasting apples & pears, a lemon/lime spark with zest, honeydew, a dash of that mineral again but very mellow, tiny drop of honeysuckle/greenery, and a lick of limestone. It’s clean & bright with a dry light tongue tingling touch.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: yes please

Roger and Marc Labbé (the fathers of Alexandra [Marc’s daughter] & Jérome [Roger’s son]) started out farming with a little bit of this & a little bit of that such as cows, their products, and the grains that feed them. There was one more ingredient to their mix…grapes, but they were at first an only weekend & spare time endeavor. As time moved along those little fruits formed Domaine Labbé, and this is where the cousins came into the picture by taking the reins in 2004. They’re hard working and are keeping it naturally sustainable with letting the grass grow in the rows & indigenous yeasts do their magic in the cellar. A & R also added a splash of red into their portfolio with introducing a little Pinot Noir & Mondeuse into their lives. They’ve also branched out to a second venture, “Terres de 1248”. Sparked by their love & respect of nature this 1.45 ha hope to be organic approved by their 2025 harvest. All I have to say is cheers to that and their passion for their vines. 🥂Looking forward to the future & tasting the new wines.

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“Wine, By The Grape”

Pormenor
Reserva Branco 2021
Douro DOC
Rabigato, Malvasia Fina
Hand harvested, indigenous yeasts, unfined, minimal intervention, natural
Santa Maria da Feira, Portugal
Pedro Coelho

Light gold that deepens over time. Breathing in pears, apples, lemon/lime & a touch of tangerine, cool salt/mineral breeze, as it opens a deeper part of depth grows. Sipping and there’s apple, pear, a toasty possible bit of smoke, lemon, lime, sorrel, a beeswax & honeysuckle exhale, and the tiniest bit of mellow oak.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: sooo good

Coelho didn’t inherit a winery, but he did have connections to some of the essentials. His dad was a cork producer, his grandfather’s a cooper (barrel maker), and he ended up working in wine finance/marketing until the moment came when he decided it was time to give it a go at making wine. He works with old vines, but doesn’t’ adhere to the past usual ways of vinification…his are fresh & can be drunk young yet can also age. They also don’t hit you over the head with high alcohol content which in my book is a very good thing. There’s a quote on his site, “Wine, by the grape” that kept rolling around in my thoughts. He wants Pormenor wines to tell the stories of his Douro…through his vineyards & grapes, and as long as he keeps making these bottles, I’ll keep listening to their whispers & songs of a place & history that holds a special spot in my heart.

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