The Little Grape That Could

Vinica
Lame del Sorbo 2015
Tintilia del Molise DOC
100% Tintilia
Ripalimosani, Molise, Italy
Organic, indigenous yeasts, guyot trained, dry farmed, green manure, hand picked, not filtered, and NO chemicals
Owner: Rodolfo Gianserra, Agronomist and winemaker: Pierluigi Cocchini, Company’s administrator: Giuseppe Tudino

Deep purple with blue tints. Tart cherries start tickling my nose, then blood orange, kumquat, a few pieces of hay, smokiness, and beautiful berries…raspberries and blueberries. First sip is a sizzle and tingle. Wow! Dark cherry, dried figs, plums, smoke and thyme. As it rolls around there’s Italian Green Cerignola pits, slight hay that I bet will leave and it does and day two was fully gone. When I exhale post sip there’s juniper berries. It’s like forest floor funk meets Riccola, but in a really good delicious way.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more dried fruit and dark juicy as well

Vinica or VI.NI.CA. was established in 2007 by the above three guys, and the name came from Rodolfo’s 3 kids names: Vittorio, Nicholas and Carola. I love all I’m reading about how they took abandoned land and created this beautiful pure farm/vineyard of 220 hectares (30 hectares for the vineyards, the rest are farm and woodland). They say the only ingredient they have added is healthy grapes. Well, I’m sure they aren’t thinking of the other ingredients of hard work and love. They planted the Tintilia in 2008, and I’m so glad they did. This little indigenous grape (the little grape that could) is only in Molise and received it’s DOC in 2010. It has a history of lower yields than others and potential issues with disease, so there was a worry it might get lost, but Molise (and the agronomist Giuseppe Mogavero) didn’t give up on it and here we are with 11 hectares in Vinica. Kind of gives me goosebumps that I’m tasting a part of Italy I’ve never been, and wants me to hug Rodolfo and Pierluigi for not placing this beautiful wine in oak. Thank you for letting me get to know a small ancient yet new to me grape in its pure form.

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Going to California

Monte Rio Cellars
Skull 2019
50% Petite Sirah, 30% Mission, 20% Zinfandel
Sebasropol, CA
Organic, indigenous yeast, hands off, and NO sulfur
Winemakers: Patrick Cappiello and Pax Mahle

Deep dense purple with a ruby tint on rim. Sniffing spices, first cinnamon barkiness, next mace, and then comes cherries, plums, cola, and I want to just say vanilla but it’s more sugar cookies with butter cream. Rolling around in my mouth are tart cherries, smoked plums, Mom’s strawberry preserves which were like a savory/sweet treat and a warm hug, lemon, citrus zest, and white and black peppercorns. It’s juicy, lovely and super shining vibrant. Where’s my shades?

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Really doesn’t change it yet more juicy. Just easy drinking with a teeny tiny burn

Emblazoned on the front of their website is, “Handcrafted wines in the spirit of old California.” Well, that is what Patrick Cappiello and Pax Mahle are definitely doing. The sommelier and the renowned winemaker are a perfect pairing. Working with family owned organic vineyards, they have the ability to select exactly what they see as best, and recreate that old California. Often they are working with a single grape but “Skull” is a beautiful blend that has a bring me a black and blue steak cry. Oh, and add a side of shoestring fries and mayo please, and this is what a sommelier would want for a wine. I also have a confession, I have watched every episode of Mr. Cappiello’s “Tasting Notes.” I already knew about him but stumbled upon those while I was home recovering from a procedure and searching wine on Amazon (BTW Pax’s Griffin’s Lair Syrah is on Season 1 Ep 10). Next thing I knew, it was like eating potato chips, you can’t just stop at one. Started coveting his t-shirt collection, and was so excited when I saw shirts were for sale on Monte Rio’s site. It’s a cool shirt, and it is SOLD OUT! Please guys, please get some new ones ready to ship out. Led-Zinfandel needs to be added to my wardrobe.

Led Zeppelin – Going To California

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This Little Piggy Went…

Costador Terroirs Mediterranis
Metamorphika 2019
D.O. Catalunya
Catalunya, Spain
100% Chenin Blanc
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested, unfined, unfiltered, indigenous yeasts, and a really cool clay bottle
Winemaker: Joan Franquet

Pure gold with a little hint of orange from the skin contact and some sediment hanging and floating. Breathing in honeydew, honeysuckle, just picked cucumbers, salt, lime, tangerine, smoke, vanilla, some caramel, and almonds. Whew that was a lot. Now sipping cantaloupe and honeydew, smoke, salt, lime, almond, and a bit of my granny’s pound cake packed with real creamy butter. Was so good the next morning for breakfast with bacon which would be so good now with this glorious glass!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: they love each other in harmony

Joan Franquet’s mountainous organic vineyards range in altitudes (400 to 800 meters), terroirs, and age. This Chenin Blanc sits at 550 with 2.5 hectares of 70 year old vines which is a youngster compared to his 110 year ones. Originally planted by a farmer by requirements of Torres, and later used by a co-op before Joan found this abandoned vineyard, nursed it back to life, and in the future looks to plant more (from these same old vines) since this wine is so popular. Also, they have another bit of competition for these grapes. WILD BOARS! Hand harvesting is done the 2nd week in September because those scary yet delicious creatures can eat 30% of the grapes. Trust me, pigs are nothing to scoff at. Have you ever been chased by an angry mama one? Let’s just say, don’t try to pet the piglets.

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A True Classic

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2016
Toscano Sangiovese IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Organic and hand harvested in small baskets
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Shiny garnet/ruby glass that is a welcome start to my evening. Enchanting and yummy scents of deep cherry, vanilla, chocolate chips like in the fresh baked cookies you’ve pulled pulled open. Let it keep breathing plums and orange zest appear. A touch of salt like a breeze. Stop laughing this isn’t a potato chip commercial. I’m not on the “Cape.” This is from the hilltop where the grape is born. Now sipping cherries, prunes, dried figs and dates. There’s a dark depth but not an overly heavy wine, nor light. I’m happily floating in the medium realm. Now I’m also getting baker’s chocolate and chicory and as I exhale post sip…that taste of fine cigar smoke. Who doesn’t love one every once in a while. Now as I’ve spent the evening with this bottle’s last glass, it comes to a sweet smooth cherry end.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out blueberry/cherry mix and a more velvet feel that grows yet still that pinch of chicory at end.

This is my 5th Buli wine and my 2nd 515 S.L.M. When I was introduced to my first bottle, the wine just spoke to me and then their history made me fall in love. Ok, the tales didn’t sway my delight in each bottle because every one has proven their merit and deliciousness. This Sangiovese is a classic beauty that has a daring side. As I sip, it reminds me of John Singer Sargent’s, “Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau)” and her elegance, beauty, and flirtatious confidence (minus the scandal). This wine is a reputable beauty that’s not on a pedestal but on Podere Collalto’s “high hill”.

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Glass of Happiness on a Rainy Day

Hana Makgeolli
Makgeolli
Takju 16
16% ABV
Unfiltered rice wine made with organic rice, naturally fermented, and filtered NY water
Brooklyn, NY
Makers: Alice Jun and John Limb

It’s a fresh hazy natural milky color ever so slightly beige and leaves sediment all over the glass. Hovering over it still looking and scents start appearing of melons, over ripe cucumber, light spring flowers and fresh cut grass. Also tangy fermentation and rice right out of the steamer. Taking my first nervous sip and it’s bright, more zingy than expected, and tiny bubbles. Mellow flavors start coming out of the tang and there’s cucumber, melon and fruity creamy rice goodness yet dry.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: nope, Nope, NOPE

I had been looking at this in the fridge and was intimidated by it. I am not a milk drinker (except in hot chocolate) and that is exactly what it looked like, staring back at me every single time I opened the door. Was so excited when I first saw it because I had just picked up a can of Màkku (which will be opened later). Wow, what an idiot I was for hesitating. This is fun, delicious, and exactly what I needed on this rainy day, and from what I’m reading, it is often drunk after a hike in the mountains when it rains. Guess it was sheer luck for me today. Hana Makgeolli is the first craft makgeolli in the US and fortunately for me, is in Brooklyn. Alice learned from her dad’s home-brew experiments, and I hope your dad is proud of you because your creation is great! Really enjoying learning about this concoction’s wild starter nuruk which in a way makes me relate it to a sourdough starter. Maybe this is why I feel a little healthy after drinking a glass, or that could also be the tipsy talking. Such a long history in Korean culture dating back to 3rd century CE when families made their own and some still do, but as with many things now you can get it commercially made. Either way, I’m so glad I took the plunge with Takju 16, and I think this may make it’s way into a cocktail in my near future.

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A Wine of Two Songs

United Colors of Wine
Luci Rosse 2019
Field blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rondinella with some white grapes (15%) like Garganega and Trebbiano
Mantova, Lombardia (near Garda’s Lake), Italy
Chemical free, organic, Guyot training, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Light bright reddish glass. Tart cherries and young hay tickle my nose. Next there’s smoke, raspberries, and orange zest. Oh and I forgot to add before getting on in there chill it, chill it good. Here comes the fun tastes of tart tingling cherries, strawberries (fresh and jammed), plum cobbler, smoke and some sizzle. Then lemons, tangerine, cloves, and a black and white pepper zing. Light, refreshing, so good chilled and has me longing for warmer climes and sun tan lines.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth sizzle with no hay

Yesterday, I wrote about this dream team, having fun with their collaboration in United Colors of Wine – “G-Ray”, and their very varied backgrounds so for that please go to https://worldbyglass.com/a-little-natural-fun-experimentation/ bc I wrote whole lot that got edited to death on IG. I love that Luci is a big blend of native grapes (red and white) from the area. In a way they’re taking a chance but on the other hand they are so knowledgable and have a groove with the grapes they have it under control. It’s kind of freestyle meets punk, yet with a classically trained hand. Yeah, this is definitely a wine that sings and makes it’s presence and emotion known. There are so many songs that flit through my head to this wine, but there’s two that stand out and show how Luci grows over time. Both are Nick Cave, and It starts as Grinderman – “Bellringer Blues” and in the end is Nick Cave and Warren Ellis – “Push the Sky Away”. Such a beautiful wondrous wine.

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A Little Natural Fun Experimentation

United Colors of Wine
G-Ray
Pinot Grigio Ramato 2019
100% Pinot Grigio
Vicenza, Veneto, Italy
Chemical free, organic but not certified, old school Pergola training, 10 day skin contact, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Unscrew that cap and it’s a glass of Blood Orange rose. BTW this is another of those bottles you need to fully read the label because it tells you not to serve too cold and let it breathe a while. Trust me, do it. As it breathes more scents start emerging. There’s orange, a dozen roses mixed with tiny white flowers, and oddly it stirs a happy memory of rock candy. Also a splash of spice like coriander and Turkish oregano. Oh I’m really looking forward to the tasting. Here comes tangerine, orange, there’s some good funk happening, a lick of granite, and now more fruit! It’s cherryplumilicious, orange jolly rancher, it’s both luscious and dry and is a fun light tangy party in my mouth. Yep, I said it and own it…in my mouth.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: beautiful. Tames everything into an elegant sip.

I feel overwhelmed and in awe of the amount of info I’m reading about both Andrea and Billy. Wow, two passionate, serious yet fun loving, and natural winemakers brought together to collaborate through Andrea’s “United Colors of Wine”. Where to even start…I guess Andrea, he seems to be one of those non stop energetic wine lovers that went down the path to be a winemaker. Also he dreamed up “Vinessum” an artisan wine fair which led to his collaboration with “Blu Nautilus” and then also the “Back to the Wine” fair, and prior worked as a blogger where he came up with the term #nogomma which denotes refusing any industrial intervention in the vineyard or cellar (so it’s all about keeping it natural). When does this man rest? And now here’s Billy melding into this dream team. He started small when he was still in the restaurant business. Found a little bit of land that needed a LOT of love, and worked hard at making this chemical free. His “Vigne del Pellagroso” name also came from nearby where a long gone newspaper. Il Pellagroso was only around from 1884 to March of 1885, when it was shut down due to their director being arrested for being on the side of human rights, justice and proper working conditions which stirred up local farmers to strike. Needless to say the  govt. wasn’t happy. It’s a fitting name for Billy’s wine since he’s so dedicated to biodynamic, organic and bucking the norm. He’s expanded over time, still kept it green and natural and with the 2020 harvest he is certified! Now these two buds get to play/experiment (well work) in Billy’s cellar and come up with beautiful, natural, and very delicious wines.

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Sometimes It Was Always Meant To Be

Pray Tell
Red Blend 2018
Willamette Valley, McMinnville, Oregon
Pinot Noir 60%, Gamay 40%
Organic and biodynamic
Winemakers: Tom Caruso and Jess Arnold

Shiny ruby glass with purple pops. Breathing in wondrous roses and spring meadow flowers. singed orange peel, cherries and full on ripe plums. First sip and smooth baby smooth. There’s plums, dried mission fig, tart and sweet cherries, something creamy….maybe a smidge of vanilla, cherry cola, and earthy goodness to give that oomph. I am so glad I waited till now to open. It’s such a special treat. As a child I would dream of a dark chocolate fudge, but now this is a much better prize than that.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: richer…deeper…delicious

Sometimes life has its path already drawn out. Loving the story of Tom and Jess and how it all fell into place. According to their site, Tom was plunked into it as a kid due to his Philly winemaking Grandpa. So endearing that he still has their old equipment (small hand crank destemmer and basket press). He tried to leave it behind by book editing in NYC, but as it seems he got called back in and went to wine school and met the woman that would end up by his side today, Jess Arnold. She already had a lot of wine knowledge from CA and NY, and with both of their backgrounds and passing their exams, it was inevitable that they would head out to find their wine future. From what I’m reading they ended up back in CA and finally settling in Willamette Valley, where they now have Pray Tell, married life, and a pug. Sounds like a pretty sweet story of living the dream to me, and I wish them the best on their future vintages.

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A Town in an Organic Bottle

Celler Batea
Sense 2019
100% Garnatxa Negre
Batea, Terra Alta, Spain
Organic, vegan, unfined, unfiltered, and native yeasts
Winemaker: Judith Folch

A glass of deep cheerful ruby. First sniff and there’s cherries and plums. Next is cinnamon/cloves and as it warms some honeysuckles, magnolias but delicately hiding in the background, and vanilla. It’s dreamy! Oh here’s juicy cherries, plums, raspberries and blueberries just dancing on my tongue along with a hint of super dark chocolate. There’s also a bit of anise. Wrap me in velvet. As much as I’d like to say a Snuggie, this is more refined and deserves a royal robe, some slippers, and a roaring fireplace.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Doesn’t change except makes all deeper

I got quite a surprise when I started looking into Celler Batea. It wasn’t a family run winery, but a co-op and a town that has a long history. This tale goes back as far as the Phoenicians and their trade route, but truly was sparked later in the 1950s. Wine was becoming more and more important financially, so winemakers/farmers bonded together…101 of them! I can only imagine how at first it must of been like herding cats. Eventually they got Celler Batea, up and running while still tending their own vines, and by 1961 were rewarded with their first vintage. Now there are 208 in the bunch and 250 hectares, and all of them take great care to keep it organic. That must be such hard work but shows such a pride and love of Terra Alta and its produce. Celler Batea has continued to listen to voices of change and in 2019 had their first wines with no added sulfites, in their Sense Blanca and Garnatxa Negre. And as I can attest, the Negre rocked my world, but you don’t have to take my word, they ended up with two gold medals: Gilbert & Gaillard, 2019 and Catalan Wine and Cava Contest, Girovi 2020, and I won’t be surprised if there are more to come.

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It’s Alive!

Domaine Didon
Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Pinot Noir
Chassey-le-Camp, Côte Chalonnaise, France
Biodynamic, whole bunch fermentation, and vineyard is worked by horse and hand
Winemakers and owners: Naïma and David Didon

Bright shimmering purple with garnet sparks. Breathing in cherries, blueberries, a little smoke, a blend of rosemary, savory, and tarragon. Also leather motorcycle chaps. I used to have the best pair, and wonder where they are today. Would they fit? Yes. Would it work in my new world…hmmmm…maybe. Back to tasting the wine and there’s sweet berries, blueberries, strawberries, tingly tart cherry with a little burn that mellows and again tarragon and rosemary for a moment at the end. It’s just a burst of flavor that’s light and fragrant and so very alive. It seems like a call to Spring and giving a finger to Punxsutawney Phil.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bouncy juicy fruit

David Didon’s biodynamic tale starts with a simple class in school when he knew he was interested in organic farming. All it takes is a little spark like that and look at him and his wife Naïma now. They have their own little historic plot after buying a farm in  Chassey-le-Camp in Côte Chalonnaise. Now there were twists and turns on that road. Working on varying farms, learning from mentors, David declining military life by being a conscientious objector, working and learning more in the organic/bio wine world, and eventually making his way to Beaune and his future wife. Their little 2 ha lieu-dit, is fully biodynamic and no tractors allowed. This is a horse and hand operation, just like the days of old. Cellar keeps to “hands off” as much as possible and NO added sulphur, which I dearly love. Stay true to the land, stay true to the fruit and stay true to life!

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