Basking in the Sun

Cascina degli Ulivi
Semplicemente
Bellotti Bianco, 2019
Cortese 100%
Piedmont Italy
Biodynamic and organic

A glass of spun gold…breath in and embrace the orange, lemons, and maybe a touch of rosemary. Sip and there’s apples, peaches, lemon, some tangerine tart tingle, and a bit of mineral. It’s a fun friendly wine that asks you to take it out on a boat and bask in the sun.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: brings out the lemon and adds some smoke. Very smooth.

Side note: This weekend, I’ll have to revisit Jonathan Nossiter’s Natural Resistance to reflect back on Stefano Belloti’s life and how while he was here on this earth, broke the rules and championed the natural ways. Louis Dressner Selections has a lovely post honoring him and an interview with Belloti from 2011.

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Honeysuckle Love

Cantina Su’entu
Su’aro 2018
Bianco blend of native grapes
Marmilla IGT
Sardegna Italy

A bright bold glass of gold. At first whiff there’s citrus, like tangerine and lemon with a splash of grapefruit. As it goes on, out comes hibiscus, honeysuckle,  rich melon, apricot, a dash of salt, and just deep beautiful flowers…whew that’s a lot and we haven’t even had a first sip. Here we go! Luscious melon and honey and all sorts flowers, a little orange peel tang, and a nice touch of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: makes the honeysuckle and melon go wild. Where’s the prosciutto?

Here’s another bit of smooth sweetness with Sarah Vaughan, Honeysuckle Rose

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A Little Friulano Slang

Borgo Savaian di Bastiani Stefano
Aransat 2019
Friuli Orange Wine
Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc
Cormons Italy

Color is gold like a bar from Fort Knox. Let it breathe a little before the whiff. There’s dark tangerine or grapefruit peels (that have been flamed), orange blossoms, and wet concrete after a cleansing rain, and wait…a hint of pine needles. Swish and swirl and take the first sip. Again there’s orange blossoms and now flamed orange peel. It’s heady, and then takes my memories back to an orange jolly candy from my childhood. I think there’s also a bit of kumquat, definitely salt, and some granite. This is a beautiful clean wine. Oh and the more you know: Aransat is Friuli slang for orange.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it oh so sweet gold. Brings out the orange oil. Burn that peel!

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Deep Velvet

Cantina Tondini
Taroni 2016
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 
Calangianus Sassari Sardegna Italy
Cagnulari 20%, Cannonau 20%, Carignano 20%, Nebbiolo 20%, Sangiovese 20%

Holding up my glass next to the window, and the color is deep shining ruby. Swirl and sniff…pine and cedar syrup, then smoke, cherries, prunes, cola, and old book leather. You all still remember books, right? Reading digital books just doesn’t have the joy of holding a real physical book that has a gentle on the eyes font. Now for the taste, and there’s cherries, blueberries, plummy, spice and some smoke. This is soooo smooth, and deep dark richness. As much as I hate using this term, but I can’t think of anything better, this is one sexy wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: This is deep velvet underground.

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A Spiritual Emotion

Antica Tenuta Pietramore
Vanita 2019
Methode Ancestrale
Vino Frizzante
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 100%
Abruzzo Italy
Organic and Biodynamic
Winemakers Maria Pia Leone & Massimiliano Bartolomei

Color is golden with a dusting of cloudy sediment. Take that first deep breath, and savor the lemon and grapefruit. Next come the slate and something herbal I can’t identify, but it gives it this wilderness spice hint. Still swirling and honestly I’m always a fan of a bit of sediment. It’s like having the prize in the bottom of a box of Cracker Jacks. You can’t wait to get to it. On with the sipping… there’s apples, salt, grapefruit, lemon, and ginger. It’s fresh and zingy bubbles and a touch of earth. This is definitely a pét-nat to pack along to go sit buy the river and relax.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Just bubbly happiness. Brings out the apples

Visiting Antica Tenuta Pietramore’s site and you’re greeted with a beautiful quote, “The pleasure of wine: a spiritual emotion”. Winemakers Maria Pia Leone and Massimiliano Bartolomei (her husband) have a deep love and care for their land and the vines that they cultivate. They’ve dedicated themselves to keeping everything organic and biodynamic. They’re also bio-vegan using what they call “green manure” which is planting legume plants between the vineyard rows and then as the plants grow, they pass on nutrients to the vines. Very cool, and I’m sure a lot of work, but it definitely pays off in the health and quality of their wines. Their grapes are harvested by hand, and so are their olives which are turned into a cold pressed bio and organic olive oil. The serene pics of their land and the neighborhood surrounding make me want to get on a plane right now and discover all I can about Abruzzo.

The three comunes/provinces mentioned on Pietramore’s site are Chieti, Teramo, and Pescara which they state are the best terroirs in Abruzzo, so here go my travels.

The northeastern side of Chieti touches the Adriatic and that area is known as Costa dei Trabocchi. Beautiful sandy and pebbly beaches, rocky cliffs, and trabucchi that extend out into the sea. A trabucco is an old fishing contraption/structure built of wood and is also grounded in rock. They look like shacks at the end of a long deck, that have crane-like extensions with nets that can be lowered by a winch when the fishermen see fish headed their way. From what I’m reading some of these old buildings have been transformed into restaurants, and as for others, the Italian government has provided funding for historical preservation. Such a nice slice of history.

Moving on to Teramo. Since we’ve already had a taste of the coast, I’m turning my eyes to Gran Sasso d’Italia, which is also located in Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park. There are old tales that Gran Sasso was a sleeping giant. Now it’s a majestic attraction that draws hikers, climbers and others that just want to enjoy a day in nature. There are three different summits and it’s tallest is the Corno Grande, which also happens to be the tallest point in the Apennine Mountains. The different levels of Gran Sasso also include areas where sheep roam and graze and wildflowers are abundant. There’s also quite an assortment of wildlife and some of them are quite rare such as the Apennine wolf, European wildcats and the Abruzzo chamois which is a goat-antelope (I had no idea this creature ever existed and it is cute!)

Now to Pescara…Let’s stop off at the Museo Delle Genti d’Abruzzo, which documents the history of the people of Abruzzo beginning in palaeolithic times. The museum strives to keep passing down all the traditions, religions, folklore, and cultural transitions, to make sure that future generations will know where they come from and what shaped their society into what it is now. Here’s a little bit of Pescara history for you. Back in 1969, they held their first international jazz festival. Now it takes place every July (not sure how 2020 will be due to Covid) and it has drawn so many famous musicians such as Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, Chick Corea, Dizzy Gillespie, Charles Mingus, Herbie Hancock, Sarah Vaughn and the list goes on. I’ll leave it here with Mingus: Take the ‘A’ Train – Live At Montreux

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A Town of Murals

Cantina Orgosa di Musina Giuseppe
Nero di Orgosa
Vino Rosso
Orgosolo Sardinia Italy
Cannonau 80%, Carignano and Sangue di Cristo 20%

This wine is “pretty in purple” and definitely no filtering. Sniff and here’s the hay, then I’m in a field of lilacs and other purple flowers. Give it a chance to air out and delicious dark fruit, salt, caramel, cocoa, and smoke. Onto the first sip and the hay is still hanging around a little bit. There’s a little tingle, some earthiness and a pop of tart and pepper. Sip some more and there’s dried fruit (cherry, cranberry & fig). Such complexity of flavors and such a light body. Bitter herbs, stone and even some cherry pop. 

Pairs with Cheez-Its: smooth tingle, fruity, sweetness 

Cantina Orgosa is driven by the winemaker Giuseppe Musina, and he keeps everything biodynamic. I applaud his use of native grapes, and from what I’m reading his winery is the first one to produce bottled wine in Orgosolo. Also love that the label on the bottle of Nero di Orgosa is a pic of one of the local murals. Perusing their Facebook Page photos and oh how I wish I could see this in person. The vineyard is just lush and beautiful. There’s pics of the harvest happening by hand and then happy gatherings that must be of some celebratory meal. Honestly, how great would it be to have a large group of your friends gathered around a long table, passing plates and opening wine. 

The comune of Orgosolo is very well known for its before mentioned murals and some call it a “museum town” since you only have to walk and you are immersed in these paintings. From what I’m reading the first mural appeared in 1969 and was signed by Dioniso (which was either a group of anarchists, or an anarchist theater troupe from Milan). Murals were continued in the 70s and 80s led by an art teacher Francesco Del Casino, some of his students, and others. I’m not sure who is continuing them now. There are depictions of war, peace, politics, protest, 9/11, the fall of Saddam, independent declarations, simple family life, love, religion, and even a man holding a goat. Found on YouTube (by Tassos Diavatis), here’s an extensive video of these artworks

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Italy and Spain Had a Baby

Pietro Beconcini
Ixe Tempranillo 2016
Toscana IGT 

Beautiful ruby color. Take a breath. Cherry, warm spice that envelops you, plum, mineral/slate and a hint of leather. Time for sipping. Again there’s the cherry, plummy goodness. It’s tart and cola with peppercorns and yes my favorite granite. Opens up so smooth. Day two, it’s a juicy sweet (not like a sugar bomb but delicious sweet ) fruit friendly 

Pietro Beconcini is the only Tempranillo wine grower in Italy. He found some old vines on his land and with a bit of investigation, discovered they may have been dropped off by ancient travelers. Maybe they were on a pilgrimage or on a trade route. Either way, I’m sure glad they did! It’s like Italy and Spain had a baby. Each sip makes me want to be sitting outside in a bar in Spain, but then also reminds me of long ago when I was studying in Cortona, Italy. Man, how my drinking days have changed. Back in the early 90s in Cortona, between classes we would grab a bite and as students do, grab a cheap beer, known as Splügen. Ah for the simpler days.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: It makes the wine have a darker feel. It’s delicious yet I can feel the good funk. Oh this is so good in bed with the cats snuggled near.

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A Giant Among Us

Cantine Chessa
Cagnulari 2016
Isole Dei Nuraghi IGP
Sardegna, Italy

What we have is a very Deep Purple…Bring on “Smoke On The Water”

I used to work at a record store for many, many years in high school and college, and thinking back must have sold thousands of “Machine Head”. 

Take a giant breath while jamming out and here comes the chocolate, smoke, salt, cigar, and a touch of cherry. You have to hunt for the cherry, but when you find it, it’s a chocolate covered cherry with a side of cola. Lift your glass and sip in the deep dark cherry and plum, smoke and salt, granite, dried figs, and cola. Deep dark earth finish. This is the happy goth of wine. Luscious 

Pairs with Cheez-Its: makes it more juicy and fruity

This wine is unbelievably delicious and I had a hard time restraining myself from finishing the whole bottle. For years I’ve wanted to go to Sardegna but each year I said next year. Why on earth did I put this off?

Cantine Chessa according to their site (which is a darn beautiful site) have been wine growers for over 60 years. The winery is owned by Giovanna Chessa, and she has continued the tradition of using local Sardinian grapes: Vermentino, Cagnulari and Moscato di Usini. I’m not one to choose a wine based on awards, but honestly all of Chessa’s wines have garnered a lot of acclaim. Cagnulari in particular has quite a catalog of awards over the years, and the 2016 I have received a Decanter Bronze. Cagnulari sounds like a gem of the Using area and a true survivor that was brought back to it’s now elevated level, or as on Chessa’s site, they call it “The King of Usini Grapes”.

Usini (and the province of Sassari) seems to be quite a land of celebration. I’m finding festivals for wine, saints, Carnevale, folklore; and the one I’m most intrigued about it for their famous pasta Andarinos, In the summer, they kick up their heels for this pasta, which is only made (and also only handmade) in Usini. There’s a lengthy history to this pasta that traces all the way back to the 17th Century. Maybe during this lockdown, I’ll try to teach myself how to make it. In December, there’s also the Faradda Dei Carruzzi. Participants (or Charioteers) zoom down Viale Trento in makeshift creations built of all sorts of junk. As long as it has wheels and you can ride it, then anything goes. 

What intrigued me the most from Usini and Sassari are the nuraghi. From what I’ve been reading, there are tales that these were graves for giants that once roamed the land, but in actuality, archeologists believe they are sites for multiple burials, and are from the Bronze Age. Their are nuraghi’s all over Sardinina and are recognized by Unesco as world heritage sites since 1997. The structures are built from stone and the one I’m most intrigued with is the Tombs of the Giants Li Lolghi. Along with the interior graves there is an outer area that most likely was used for rituals. Honestly I wish I knew more about these structures. Others are mentioned as fortresses for the Nuragic civilization. Click here for wonderful photos of the Giants Tomb. It’s a fabulous site about everything you could want to know about Sardegna by travel writer, Jennifer Avventura. I don’t know if she will see this, but I want to thank her for her wonderful work. I’ve never met her, but stumbled upon the site, and she makes me want to whisk away to Sardegna and investigate every thing.

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A Bottle of Love

Rossese Di Dolceaqua, 2018
Maccario Dringenberg
San Biagio Della Chima

The color is a bright happy glowing garnet, like shimmering through a stained glass window. Opening the bottle and the first pour is cherry, mineral, and floral. Reminds me of magnolia or azaleas, but not overpowering like your eccentric great aunt’s perfume. Just reminds me of flowers from home. I remember climbing magnolia trees…Aunt Eula had them in them out back. She was a unique soul, and I always keep a piece of her in my heart. FYI she didn’t wear the before mentioned perfume. She was my hero and a very distinguished nurse. Her backyard always reminded me of a fairy land. The moss, the flowers, the earthy damp humid smell. It was just enchanting and magical. The forest hints in the wine take me fully there.

Bring on the taste: cherry and strawberries. Fresh and tart and fun fruit that opens up to sweet but not too sweet loveliness. Summery floral but not overpowering, light leather, salt and a touch of olive pit. Bellisimo! Happy, happy times

My really sweet dad keeps sending me wonderful care packages including Cheez-Its. So here goes “Pairs with Cheez-its”: All of above but a tingle and more smooth less tang. Actually has a full on prune w it. More sweet. More concentrated. Does it really matter if I’ve hit the point of eating Cheez-its in the dark during a pandemic while sipping wine and watching Chris Cuomo. Oddly the wine makes the Cheez-its more toasty

Onto the travel. Been having a hard time finding a lot specifically about San Biagio Della Chima, so any feedback would be very welcome. So far I’m finding it’s a comune in the province Imperia in Liguria. The comune sounds like it has close tight climbing roads and staircases. Sounds like it would be great exercise, which I could really use right now. There’s also the Chiesa dei Santi Fabiano e Sebastiano, where you can find artworks by Jacopo Rodi di Montalto, Giovan Battista Casoni, Maurizio Carrega and Anton Maria Maragliano. They also have a wonderful restaurant La Vecchia Ostaia (“Mamma Angela”) which has recently been reviewed by “The World’s 50 Best”. Back to the winery, it’s evidently steep planting, so everything is by hand. Sounds like this is a lot of hard and dedicated work by Giovanna Maccario and her husband Goetz Dringenberg. Everything I’m reading is that they both changed their lives to keep the winery open. She switched career first, then love happened and Goetz came on board. Such a romantic story. 

As I said, I’ve had a hard time getting info, until I stumbled upon Patricia Thomson’s article on Rossese. I’m just going to directly quote her on the developing wine history: “But passing generations have witnessed a hacking away of the viticultural landscape. Where once 3000 hectares (7400 acres) of vineyards blanketed these valleys—50 percent more than in the Langhe—now there’s just 100 hectares. Wars and phylloxera started the shrinkage. But farmers voluntarily continued it once the flower industry was introduced. Seeing they could make the same amount of money in half the time with half the property, they started ripping out vines and building greenhouses. Now those multistory monstrosities sit empty, for Dutch buyers have turned to cheaper sources in Chile, Kenya, and Tunisia, where flowers cost one-tenth the price.”

That’s pretty distressing, but evidently there are younger vintners seeking to bring all the wineries back and cultivate the old vines. Thank goodness Maccario Drinngenberg is keeping up this hard work. Please check out Patricia Thomson’s site. She writes about film, wine, etc. and it’s all fabulous. 

Also in Imperia there is another comune, Dolceaqua, which (according to google maps) is a 22 min car ride from San Biagio Della Chima. Monet captured their Castello di Dolceacqua and the Old Bridge Dolceaqua in a few paintings. I can definitely see why he chose to paint this magical place. The bridge is truly enchanting. During research on these works, I stumbled onto another site that is a gold mine of information on Liguria. https://thatsliguria.com/en/
A wonderful woman named Agata fell in love with Liguria, and also fell “in love” in Liguria, and built the site so everyone else can see how beautiful the places, people, and the food are. She’s even keeping up posting from quarantine. She is definitely stirring my love for this beautiful region. 

One more take away, as I keep looking into wine, the people, the communities, and the land; I keep finding tales of love, dedication, and perseverance from all over the world. During this tense stressful time of the pandemic/covid19/isolation, I find these stories inspiring and bring a bright light to my day.

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