Rugby Pandamonium

Vinovalie
Les Valeurs Sures
Les Blousons Noirs 2018
100% Malbec
AOP Cahors
Saint Sulpice, France
Wine co-op; Cellar master (for Cahors): Hervé Froment

Inky dark ruby with blue highlights (natural not dyed). After pulling the cork, it’s buttery at first, and then start rolling out of the pour are vanilla, cherries, plums, and a walk around a lush dark velvety forest. Hmmm this is really friendly and enchanting. Sipping and white pepper says “hello”, then dried and dark fresh cherry, blueberries, plum and prunes, and a few blackberries wave back. It’s smooth with a tiny upstart fight, but after a bit there’s a light little brown sugar brittle. This is one scrumptious Malbec.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth lovely sailing

Who out there loves rugby and of course a good scrum? Well, I sure do; and Vinovalie sees their co-op in team terms. As they say, “Vinovalie is all about collective performance. As in rugby, success is in the quality of the pass – through mutual dialogue and shared exchanges”. They draw on everyone’s diverse experience and knowledge to get the best from their lands and vineyards, and work forward to the best in bottle goal (or a try). Les Blousons Noirs is one cool panda sporting a very apropos biker jacket. Rugged on the outside and warm and sweet on the inside. Hey, that sounds like a description of many players I know. All I can say is grab a glass and let’s head to the match!

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Get Up! Get On Up!

Domaine Julien Prével
Sec Machine 2019
Pét-Nat
100% Chenin Blanc
Organic and hand-harvested
Montlouis-sur-Loire, France
Winemaker: Julien Prével

Cheery gold with a fun and fine foam. Right on the tip of my nose is a little malt yeast (like what you’d find at an Athens, GA bar popcorn machine, and if you haven’t tried it…do!), Meyer lemon, mellow apples, grass, and wet rocks after a good hard rain. Sipping and still a pinch of that malty yeast, apples, pears, hay, and baking spice blend. Ooh next there’s a good lemon squeeze to wake it up and smack me in the face alive and vibrant. So, there is also a banana bit, and I have a love/hate relationship with that flavor. It’s a Bavarian weissbier banana, so it’s a love for me. This sparkler is made for all sorts of beer lovers, and as it opens it’s a massive easy drinker. Oh, one more note all of a sudden…on the back end there is some yellow cake (not uranium). Who doesn’t love cake?

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Yes! Everything heightens and it’s a party!

I’m so glad Julien Prével didn’t go into the academia/teaching realm as a profession and ended up in wine. We wouldn’t have this lovely “Sec Machine” if life had taken a different route, and I wouldn’t have this classic stuck in my head for days! Let’s all get up and “Shake your money maker”!

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Generation to Generation

Domaine Victor Sornin
Beaujolais Lantignié Nature
“Les Monthieux” 2019
100% Chardonnay
Appellation Beaujolais Villages Protégée
Organic, sustainable, hand harvested, native yeasts, and NO OAK in aging
Lantignié (vineyard), Régnié-Durette (winery), Rhône, France
Winemakers: Frédéric Sornin (Domaine Frédéric Sornin) and his son Victor who this cuvée is named after

Light straw yellow. Inhaling crisp apple and pears, orangey bits floating on a fresh clean spring breeze, and clean wet granite. First sip and say hello to crisp and clean apples, then luscious pears, some tartness and tang from a smidgen of orange rind, and a little nectarine. It’s clean and fresh, a splash of salty; and no I haven’t been crying into my wine. There’s something bitter in the end. It’s like biting into rosemary but not the fragrant exhale, but all the fruit comes quickly back. I have to say, thank the Lord there is no oak and you get to embrace the pure chardonnay.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: ooh perfect! More fruity goodness

Frédéric Sornin’s father passed down the estate to him in 1990, and now he has his son Victor learning and working with him, so what better way to honor that than have two cuvées in his son’s name (a red and this white). It truly must be wonderful to watch your offspring grow while working by your side and sharing the same love of the land and creating wine. It’s such a beautiful snapshot of family love, and I bet Frédéric is one proud papa. Oh by the way, they’re also joined in the vines by free roaming sheep that graze and replenish the land, the natural-organic-bio way.

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Nature’s Symphony

Domaine Yves Duport
Céline
Vin de France
40% Chardonnay, 40% Gamay, 20% Mondeuse
Biodynamic, organic, spontaneous fermentation, indigenous yeasts
Bugey, France
Winemaker: Yves Duport

Pressed strawberry cherry juice on the darker side yet you can still through it. Is it a rosé or a red you can chill? Either way it is a perfect summer wine. Smooth scents of strawberries, raspberries, sweet cherries, and a little southern forest flair. Sipping strawberries, raspberries, pluots, dark cherries, a rock from the creek down the street, smoke, and touch of toasted rosemary.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: the salt makes it more bright, but I preferred the depth it had, so it’s up to you to decide.

Yves Duport has a perfect quote on his site: “Only in the plant kingdom, the vine makes us understand what the true flavor of the Earth is.” – Colette – Prisons et Paradis 1936. Within four generations of work, the domaine is now up to 12 hectares and has been organic and biodynamic since 2007. Yves lets nature (the terroir) be the composer of the songs of his wines while as I’m reading he is the conductor in the vines. Céline is their beautiful symphony birthed from the trio blend of grapes and varied Bugey soils. As I keep on sipping this song, I feel like I’m sitting on a hillside of wildflowers with butterflies fluttering around me, and breathing in that clean mountain air. Oh, a girl can dream, at least until I can soon make it reality.

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Quench That Thirst

Mas del Périé
Soif d’Ailleurs 2019
Vin de France
Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picpoul, Clairette Rose, Clairette Blanche, Counoise, Cinsault, Muscat de Hambourg, Malbec
Cahors, Quercy, Occitanie, France
Biodynamic, organic, Monsieur Mouton’s eco-grazing sheep, native yeasts, hand harvested, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaker: Fabian Jouves

Reddish orange-rose and so bright. Swirl, sniff and popping orange zest, roses, Canadian strawberries (this tiny ones I so love), a smidge of tarragon, faint straw, and fresh summer rain on slate. On this is one fruity juicy jumble of goodness in my mouth. There’s raspberries, mandarins (and zest), blueberry muffin, strawberries, and a dark cherry bite. Floating with this happy light summer red on a warm night.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: oh yes so much more sweet summer berries

Soif d’Ailleurs translates to “Thirst for Elsewhere”. Haven’t we all had that thirst over this past year? That yearning to escape and fly away to special places in our hearts? This is my second Fabian Jouves’ creation that is transporting me back to France and all its delights. It’s like he’s a magical biodynamic hands off mixmaster, just letting nature and the stars take their course, in the field and in the cellar. My first was “You F&@K My Wine ?! 2019”, which was another playful, juicy bio with a De Niro name. “Soif d’Ailleurs 2019” is a lighter, refreshing bottle of joy that can quench your thirst and get you in just as much trouble because it’s one smooth drinker that you can kick up your heels with. If I had to match this wine with a star (like before), I’d say this one is more like Christopher Walken. Suave, a huge blend of personalities, cool and light on his feet. Who wouldn’t want to get down and take a spin with Walken.

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A Volcano Raised Cherry

Desprat Saint-Verny
Le Pinot Noir 2019
Puy de Dôme IGP
Sustainable farmed, indigenous yeast
Puy de Dôme, Auvergne, France
Winemaker: Julien Maurs and a 65-grower cooperative

Maroon you remember the crayon…not the band. Ah scents of delicious cherries, plums, blueberries, a touch of earth. a little cola that goes great with a little warn croissant. Sipping cherry funk, plums, blackberries, blueberries, and pinch of pepper. It’s light with a nice touch of earthy/natural touch of darkness with all sorts of dried fruits from cherries to figs.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: gives it a more rich zing

This Pinot Noir comes with a nickname of “Les Cerises” or the cherries that are represented inside and outside the bottle. This lovely grape is fed well from the volcanic soil of Auvergne, which has a loooong history of wine and in modern day a determined co-op that worked really hard to achieve Cotes d’Auvergne AOC recognition  in 2011. There’s just something about this wine that makes me think about my favorite writer, Martin Walker, and his “Bruno Chief of Police” series. Specifically it makes me think of when his fictional town of St. Denis (in Dordogne) has their outdoor festivals. Whether it’s from “The Dark Vineyard” where townsfolk come together to harvest grapes ending in a bbq under the stars, or one of their outdoor music fêtes sipping a glass while listening to the featured chanteuse of the night. Pure enchantment.

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Smooch that Big Bad Wolf

Chateau de Roquefort
Gueule de Loup, de Villeneuve 2018
Bouches du Rhône IGP
80% Grenache, 10% Cinsault, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Biodynamic, organic, vegan, indigenous yeasts, natural , unfiltered, unfined, co-fermented
Provence, France
Winemaker: Raimond de Villeneuve

Shiny glistening garnet. Immediately it’s creamy, cherries, strawberries, blueberries, cola, rich dried figs and reduction too, lovely dark funk. Getting ready for that first sip and it’s a cherry coated in white and black pepper, dried mission figs, dark plums, strawberry and raspberry frappe, and to cap it off, coriander and smoke.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Smooth berries and dark berries. Like blueberries in a muffin pan that has stuck to the edge and erupted and you want to scrape off that charred goodness.

When I saw “Gueule de Loup”, all I could think of is the Italian phrase “in bocca al lupo” which translates to “in the mouth of the wolf” but is to wish you good luck (albeit the wolf dies). In French it is all about the wolf’s mouth too, but is also a snapdragon flower, which roams wild with the vines. Well, Raimond’s land is pretty lucky in this microclimate that lets the grapes be picked a little later. He’s also full of quotes on his site that sum the most of him and his cuvées’ parts. Please take a look at the photo essays with each one. You’ll feel like you can touch and smell the land and the play and earnestness of his beliefs. As with, “These are not “serious” wines. They are addressed to all those who like “seriously” to drink wine and not to those who taste with the tip of their lips, smell and exclaim for hours!” This is real, natural, a whole other level, and just enjoy. Please never forget time with wine is time well spent when you can just relax, smile with your friends, and talk (not only about wine).

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It’s Alive!

Domaine Didon
Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Pinot Noir
Chassey-le-Camp, Côte Chalonnaise, France
Biodynamic, whole bunch fermentation, and vineyard is worked by horse and hand
Winemakers and owners: Naïma and David Didon

Bright shimmering purple with garnet sparks. Breathing in cherries, blueberries, a little smoke, a blend of rosemary, savory, and tarragon. Also leather motorcycle chaps. I used to have the best pair, and wonder where they are today. Would they fit? Yes. Would it work in my new world…hmmmm…maybe. Back to tasting the wine and there’s sweet berries, blueberries, strawberries, tingly tart cherry with a little burn that mellows and again tarragon and rosemary for a moment at the end. It’s just a burst of flavor that’s light and fragrant and so very alive. It seems like a call to Spring and giving a finger to Punxsutawney Phil.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bouncy juicy fruit

David Didon’s biodynamic tale starts with a simple class in school when he knew he was interested in organic farming. All it takes is a little spark like that and look at him and his wife Naïma now. They have their own little historic plot after buying a farm in  Chassey-le-Camp in Côte Chalonnaise. Now there were twists and turns on that road. Working on varying farms, learning from mentors, David declining military life by being a conscientious objector, working and learning more in the organic/bio wine world, and eventually making his way to Beaune and his future wife. Their little 2 ha lieu-dit, is fully biodynamic and no tractors allowed. This is a horse and hand operation, just like the days of old. Cellar keeps to “hands off” as much as possible and NO added sulphur, which I dearly love. Stay true to the land, stay true to the fruit and stay true to life!

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Mr. Moonlight

Domaine des Carabiniers
Lunar Apogé
100% Syrah
IGP Pays d’OC 2018
Roquemaure, France
Biodynamic, organic, dry farmed, hand harvested at night to prevent oxidation, and native yeasts
Founder and winemaker: Christian Leperchois; Vineyard Manager & Maître de Chai: Fabien Leperchois

Ruby garnet bling. Popping out cherry scents, roses, plums, Tampa cigar rolling tobacco leaves…yeah, I went to school down there for a little bit, and toasted rosemary. Dark cherry luscious tastes that turns into a cherry tart hand pie, juicy plums, raspberries, strawberries, dried cherries, chewing fresh rosemary and nibbling on an orange peel. Smoooooth as it opens up. Tasted during Full “Wolf Moon”, it’s less about howling, and more about warm nuzzling.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it deeper, richer

This is a history of wine born in Tuscany and then transplanted to France. After settling in their new country, the Leperchois family started with 3 hectares and is now up to 50 (potentially still growing) and in 1990 became organic and 2006 biodynamic. Even with their growth, they are keeping it truly a family operation and focusing on quality. Just check out their pics on their site which also include their adorable little black panther Vestide who was found, or found them in their vines. Domaine des Carabiniers’ Lunar Apogé line gives a nod to the lunar calendar and how it is an important part of cycle of the vines and wine just like climate, soil, weather, and how you let nature do it’s thing. As Fabien says on their site, “To make a good wine, you need to have good grapes. Nature does the rest. A Maître de Chai is first and foremost a wine-grower, more so with Biodynamic farming.” Sometimes, as in this beautiful wine, less is more.

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With a Little Help From His Friends

A la Vôtre!
Hou la la!! 2019
VDF Rouge
Loire, France
100% Pinot Noir
Practicing organic
Winemaker: Laurent Lebled

Dark red tapestry color. My nose is loving these plums, blueberries, deep cherries, vanilla wafers, dried rich fruit, and a tiny hint of celery seed. Delicious tastes of dark tart cherry, faint hay, strawberries and strawberry Pop Tart, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, a smidge of orange peel and some woodsy earth. Super juicy! It’s also an elegant wine that you could dress up for or casually lounge around sipping in a comfy sweatshirt while hiding in a Zoom meeting.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: I’m not sure if it changes much but makes it more rich and makes me want more. Putting them away before I drink the whole bottle.

This is not the usual, story of a winery passed down through the generations. It’s a second act. Laurent Lebled worked in wood, not wine for over 30 years and well, life changed. Lost his job at the worst time, the 2008 recession. Well, he was lucky enough to have two great friends (Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau) that convinced him to change his life. Ok, so there is a tale of inheritance, Sébastien’s grandfather left him 2 hectares of vines, and he just knew this would be Laurent’s new destiny. Laurent learned from Sébastien through the 2009 vintage. 2010, Sébastien and Patrick helped and guided Laurent though the first “A la Vôtre!” Then it was time for the bird to leave the nest. Since then he has rented vines and cellars until 2019. He had the good fortune to buy 10 hectares of vines and a cellar. Funny how life works out. Just when everything seems dark, another door opens. You just have to trust and embrace it.

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