Rosato, Rosè and Roses

Tenuta I Fauri
Baldovino 2018
Rosato
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy
Montepulciano 100%
Sustainable farming
Winemaking family: Luigi and Valentina Di Camillo (brother and sister)

This is a cherry red Rosè. Elegant fresh breath of flowers and more specifically roses. Cherry and strawberries start to pop in too, the more it warms. Delicious swig that has my tastebuds dancing. Definitely cherry, plummy and strawberry sweetness. It’s fruity but not overwhelming. It’s more refreshing, oh and something floral in the taste too. Wait something woody nutshell emerges, but not bad. The more I think about it, it’s almond and not the shell. Been eating quite a few when we were locked down. Yes, I do eat other things than just Cheez-It’s.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: say goodbye to the almond and hello to a gush of fruit

Tenuta I Fauri was founded in 1978 by Domenico Di Camillo (Luigi and Valentina’s dad). This is another lovely story, of a family falling in love with wine and passing it down the generations. Also brother and sister both studied oenology and then came aboard the family business. Quite the power team with some great PR. They were picked by Forbes back in 2019 as one of five small wine producers to watch. From this bottle alone, I can definitely see why.

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A Glass and a Dance

Malaparte Vinos
Dindi Blanco 2019 (I think)
Cuéllar, Segovia, Spain
Albillo Mayor (mainly), Jerez, Huerta del Rey, and Verdejo
Natural farming, no pesticides or herbicides, indigenous yeasts and spontaneous fermentation
Winemaking family: Mariano de Frutos (dad), Elisa de Frutos (daughter), Ruben Salamanca (son-in-law)

Color pale golden yellow. Looks refreshing! Smelling a blend of citrus, melon, some vanilla sweetness, then salty smoky, and something greenish like grass. Sipping cantaloupe and honeydew, a twinge of apple, tangy orange, and lemon tart (with a not so sweet yet toasty vanilla savory crust just lingering in the back). As it opens more, it’s sultry but still has a mineral granite lick. Medium body with an acidic finish. In other words, the best of both worlds

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more melon, more fragrance

Reading up on how Malaparte Vinos, grew from a dream of Mariano de Frutos. Back in 1996, (wow when I typed this, I was thinking that’s not that long ago, but in reality, yes it is…time flies.) he started planting only Tempranillo in a small 3.5 hectare vineyard, but over the years it has branched out to a variety of grapes such as mentioned above in the wine notes. Very glad his dream has been realized and shared with his daughter Elisa de Frutos and her husband Ruben Salamanca.

Mariano’s dream started and is still in Cuéllar, so off we go to check out the town. If you happen to arrive the last Sunday of August, better keep watch of what’s happening around you. Early each morning (the Festival of Nuestra Señora del Rosario lasts 5 days) the bulls are released to do the infamous run through the streets. I think I’ll stick to just visiting the Dukes of Alburquerque castle. Awe inspiring gothic and renaissance architecture are blended in this incredible structure. Quite a fortress, that became abandoned after the dukes left the neighborhood. Much later in 1938, it became used as a prison and later a sanatorium for TB infected prisoners. What a change from being an exalted lap of luxury. As of now though, it has become a vocational school. Can you imagine going to school in a castle! Oh wait, that makes me think of Hogswart. That could be magical.

Let’s check out one more place in the nearby town of Iscar, the Museo Mariemma. Guillermina Teodosia Martínez Cabrejas, otherwise known as Mariemma, was one of Spain’s most important and influential dancers and choreographers. Born in Iscar, but due to her father wanting to make a better future for his family, they packed up and moved to Paris. From what I’m discovering about her past, she often danced in the street and was discovered for her talent at the age of 9, and then sent to study with a professional. By the age of 12, she was already performing as a soloist at the Olympia Theater. She passed on her love of dance, knowledge and creativity by teaching at Real Conservatorio de Arte Dramático y Danza de Madrid, and forming her own school: Mariemma Ballet de España. If you want to learn more about Mariemma, check out Daniel G. Cabrero’s documentary, “My Paths Through Dance”. Now I have another museum to check off my visit list whenever I get to travel again.

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WINE MEMORIES 3.8.2018

Cantina Argiolas
Turriga 2011
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
Sardegna Italy
Cannonau (mostly) with Carignano, Bovale Sardo, Malvasia Nera

Hesitantly opened back in 2018. One of my favorites, and I didn’t know when I would get it again. From what I remember of that night (and my sparse notes), it was deep, dreamy, dark fruit, some herbal thing like fennel, and as it grew chocolate/coffee. Elegant and strong and just filled with love. Was a gift from my dear, but here is the problematic part, did he get it here or was it a bottle he brought me back from Basel? Shhh… don’t tell him I can’t sort where my present came from. I swear my brain has been so fried memory-wise since lockdown, and I didn’t take a picture of the back of the bottle. It may have come from Paul Ullrich AG in Basel or it could have come from D.O.C. Wine Shop. It’s a coin toss at this point, so giving both a nod of credit. Either way, still one of the Sardinian wines I ABSOLUTELY LOVE! Oh, and this is from the pre-Cheez-It’s era.

Cantina Argiolas https://argiolas.it/

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Not Your Parents Soave

Nardello
Robian
Garganega 2019
100% Garganega
Soave Classico DOC
Veneto Region
Monteforte d’Alpone, Verona, Italy
Sustainable farming, spontaneous yeasts, no sulfites added (and any there are naturally occurring)

Winemaker: Daniele Nardello

It’s a cloudy deep orange golden…kind of like Tang. You remember… the astronaut beverage. First off scent of oranges, salt, pretty little flowers, and a little natural funk. Slightly sizzling sip of tangy sassy orange, peachiness, dried apricots, a little hay, and something soft candy feel, like maybe those classic old circus peanuts. There’s also mineral and as it warms up it becomes richer.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Hmmm more of the sizzle feeling. More funk. Darker orange

Years ago (in the US) Soave wines got a bad rap due to mass produced ones you could pick up anywhere. I remember in childhood the old tv commercials hawking the bottles. The wines of Soave Classico DOC kick that antiquated ideal to the curb. The volcanic soil in Monteforte d’Alpone, really enhance the two vineyards and the wines of Nardello. Honestly, I’m not sure which of the two, Robian’s Garganega comes from. It actually could even be both. Either way this orange wine with it’s crunchy crystal sediment is a great summer drinker.

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Rustic Family Roots

Terra di Briganti
Nato Nudo
Aglianico 2017
Benevento IGT
Casalduni Campania Italy
Aglianico 100%
Organic, biodynamic, vegan, and indigenous yeasts
Winemakers: Toni and Romeo De Cicco

Dark garnet that I can’t see through. Breathing in dark cherry, prune, and an earthy spiciness. Whoa the first sip is darker than I was expecting. Someone please bring me a lamb chop or maybe even better a lamb sausage. Rustic cherry including the pit and tart ripe blackberries some velvet plum/prune. There’s also something herbal or maybe…no wait, it’s oil cured black olives that I used to eat like a madwoman in college. It’s that luscious old school bitter.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Less bitter and more fruit

Senza Solfiti Aggiunti are magical words to my ears. I love no added sulfites! This is my third Terra di Briganti wine and all three are greatly diverse yet consistent. Every one is well structured and true to their grape. You can feel the passion and care in the wines. I love this quote from their site: “It’s the proper equilibrium between tradition and innovation and the ideal synergy that is found amongst the Earth’s gifts and the art of wine. Because wines of quality aren’t the fruit of coincidence.” This family is devoted to the land, the grape and the nature that nurtures. Does my heart good to see them passing this knowledge down the generations. Check out these lovely pics of everyone pitching in working the vines and wine.

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One Glass is Never Enough

Cantina Marilina
Sikelé 2017
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Grecanico (darn fabulous ancient grape)
Sicily Italy
Organic, indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration
Winemakers: Angelo, Marilina and Federica Paternò

Gorgeous glass of golden orange. First scents are orange, melon, sweet honeysuckle, and one of my faves sea breeze salt. Sipping while sitting in the sun and there’s orange, lemon, melon, pear, apple (now that’s a bowl of fruit), smoky salt, white pepper, a scattering of almonds, but the best part is the orange blossoms that keep wafting in and out.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out more heavenly flowers

So this is my first writing about a wine I’ve had outdoors in Phase Three. Admittedly it was so good…like you don’t want it to end good. Another day, I had more of it at home. Had to make sure how it pairs with Cheez-It’s. Having this wine in the Brooklyn “wild”, in the company of good people, conversation, and fabulous food was amazing. Grecanico Dorato is such a gorgeous aromatic and flavorful grape. Admittedly, this orange wine is just as wonderful at home, back in the confines of the “new normal” (oh how sick I am of this term). I do miss that lively and delicious evening, my friends, and feeling the sun on my face; but I will savor this wine and every second I had with the people I love. Can’t wait till my next excursion, and next “wine in the wild”.

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Good Vibrations

Bodegas y Viñedos Patagonia Valley
Rivus
km1012
Malbec 2018
Patagonia Argentina
Rio Negro
Organic and biodynamic
Winemakers: Augusto Ripoll and Guy Zarate

A glassful of deep purple. It’s yeasty toasty so let this youngster breathe. Give it some time and a hint of vanilla pops up but runs away. Deep really tart cherry, orange peel, cola, smidge of tobacco, and earthy pepper appear. First sip is alive and young in a good way. Tangy cherry that has my lips vibrating, and some pomegranate too. Flowers are hanging out but definitely cedar and some funky slightly bubble feeling that is just on the tongue. There’s still some seriously natural rustic hayness. This little guy should be finished off in the first day or two to keep it’s full essence.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: there’s still the crazy tingle feeling, but the cherry darkens

The tingling is reminding me of a lip plumper from the past. Maybe a glass of this can be the new beauty trick.

If you want a good read on Malbec, “The Vineyard at the End of the World: Maverick Winemakers and the Rebirth of Malbec” (by Ian Mount) is a great recounting of the history and dramas that played out over the years.

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The Beautiful One

Domaine De Listinconu
Île De Beauté IGP 2019
Sciacarellu, Grenache
Aghione, Corsica (region of France) but it also depends on which resident you talk to. Serious politics are still somewhat afoot.
Winegrower: Paul Vincent Casanova

Delightful light salmon orange color which leads into the very fragrant smell of orange blossoms, salt, violets, and honeysuckle. First sip is orange which builds into apple, pear, again salt, light melon, honey covered strawberries, and raspberries. This wine is damn gorgeous. Why don’t I have a yard and be able to drink this in while grilling some shrimp skewers? Also since I’m dreaming, let’s have a dozen oysters on the half shell.

Pairs with Cheez-its: full on berry. Strawberries popping all over the place

I’m coming up empty on pics of this winery/vineyard. Domaine De Listinconu and their winegrower Paul Vincent Casanova is from Aghione, Corsica (from what I am finding). They are part of Pierre Rougon’s extensive portfolio. According to Rougon’s site they are all estate bottled wines. I just wish I could find pictures of the place. No matter what, let’s hop the boat and head to Corsica.

Corsica, the beautiful island with many names throughout history. The Greeks called it Kalliste (which of course makes me think of Khaleesi, the most beautiful and powerful) and also Seirinoussai, which are the Sirens from Homer’s Odyssey. From what I see it is a place that can lure you in, but I don’t think it would dash you, I think you would just want to stay forever.

Starting off in the capital Ajaccio, which is housed between their beautiful beaches and ports on the Gulf of Ajaccio and also mountainous craggy ranges. The bustling city is also well known for it’s illustrious infamous son, Napoleon. You can spend your time viewing the Maison Bonaparte, or you could (I would) head to the harbor and find a beautiful restaurant and enjoy some fresh seafood (think urchins and shellfish with a bottle of wine) under the sun. Wait, let’s add to the order a serving of fresh Brocciu cheese.

Heading now not so far away to Bocognano, where you can have an adventure in the Richiusa Canyon. You can sign up for one of the local tours and hike, climb, zipline, slide, and take a plunge into the river. They also have a fest in December which is right up my alley, the Fiera di a Castagna. Yes, let’s all celebrate the chestnut! The fair is renowned as the most important fete in Corsica, and draws around 20,000 people each year. It celebrates not only the chestnut, but also multiple other local artisan foods, music, and culture, oh and not to forget the wine.

Let’s make one more stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Scandola Nature Reserve. We’ll need to take a little boat trip, and you can grab one at Calvi, Galéria or Porto. You have choices in boats. Larger ones cover more area faster, but the smaller ones can give you a chance to get closer to the cliffs and grottos. The cliffs are a beautiful rusty brick red and riddled with strawberry trees and heather. It’s also home to all sorts of sea birds, ospreys, dolphins, seal colonies and from this video graceful mesmerizing jellyfish. This trip would be a beautiful way to spend an afternoon.

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If You Like It Dirty

Ancarani
Indigeno 2018
Ravenna Trebbiano IGT
Frizzante Sui Lieviti
Oriolo dei Fichi, Faenza, Italy
100% Trebbiano Romagnolo
Wild yeasts and organic

Cloudy bubbly pale gold with lots of tiny bubbles. First sniff is citrus, spice, salt, and some yeasty crust. As I taste there’s that funky yeast again that turns toasty, then citrusy/lemony, tart yellow cherries, and again salt. It’s zesty and some spice thrown in…wait that’s Ginger not Mary Ann. It’s a party in my well…

Pairs with Cheez-its: kills the funk, amps the party

Interestingly, there’s drinking instructions on the back label. The spontaneous fermentation and the yeasts have left you a little treat at the bottom of the bottle. If you “like it clean” keep the bottle straight and pour as normal, but if you “like it dirty” turn slowly so the bottle is upside down and let the yeasts mix it up with the rest of the wine. As you can probably already guess, I went with “dirty”. Speaking of that, this dirty little ditty is still as fresh as when it came out Christina Aguilera – Dirrty (VIDEO) ft. Redman

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My God, It’s Full of Stars

Domaine Philippe Vandelle
Chainai Ouillée 2018
L’Étoile Blanc AOC
Savagnin 100%
Jura France
l’agriculture raisonnée
Winemaker: Philippe Vandelle

Beautiful shimmering shining straw gold. Inhale and there’s apple, heady flowers like honeysuckle and lily, then melon, and a little smoke. Going in for the sip and there’s fresh apple, melon, again that lovely honeysuckle, a splash of lemon zest, and a lick of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-its: brings out more zest but consistently and gloriously delicious.

Sitting here with my glass and reading about Philippe Vandelle and how he ended up in wine. In his case it’s ingrained in his DNA. Six generations of pure love of the land (l’Étoile) in this family. Passing down grape knowledge such as training, harvesting, the sous voile, and in the case of this particular wine, ouillage. Philippe Vandelle also achieved sustainable agriculture designation by Qualité France SA, which is a lot of hard work. An added treat on their website is a selection of recipes that I bet will pair well with their wines

Let’s start off in l’Etoile, which is said to be named after star shaped fossils (of ancient starfish) that can be found in their limestone-rich land. Oh they are just so beautiful! Way back in the Jurassic Period, this lovely land was covered by the sea. Who knows what other creatures swam above this land.

Off to other parts of Jura…from childhood I have always been fascinated with caves and their inhabitants over the ages, so starting off this travel with the Grotte d’Osselle. They do start in Doubs but continue through Jura. Discovered in the 13th century and people began touring them in the 16th. I wonder what spelunking would be like way back then. Think about the fashion of the times, your feet would probably be killing you. Back to the cave and an early dweller. An ancient bear skeleton was discovered back in 1856, and as the years went on and more were found, it became known as a bear burial place. The stalactites and stalagmites are incredible, and give the caverns a religious moving feeling. Check out the pics on the official site.  Don’t let the bears scare you.

Next dream stop is La Cascade des Tufs. This waterfall looks like something out of a fantasy flick…like you could turn around and find a fairy or Gelfling sideline up behind you. Please take a look at this video, and you will totally get what I’m talking about. The fall is fed by the underground Dard river that flows through the Baume-les-Messieurs cave.

Now for something that’s family friendly fun, in Lons-le-Saunier (Jura’s capital) there’s a special museum for something near and dear to a lot of kids’ hearts, La Maison de la Vache Qui Rit. Yes, there is a museum dedicated to the beloved Laughing Cow. Yep, it’s all about that little cheese and the design/packaging throughout the years. Moooooo!

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