A Thorny Situation

Thistle & Weed
Duwweltjie 2018
100% Chenin Blanc
W.O. Paarl
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Organic and unfiltered
Viticulturist: Etienne Terblance
Winemaker: Stephanie Wild

Shimmy shimmy shiny gold. My nose is filled with an early hint of vanilla, then citrus scents of lemon. persimmon, blood orange, and light grapefruit (ie IPA). There’s also super ripe cucumber, pine, and some salty (not sexy, wiggle that moustache) thyme. Kicking back apricot, melon, pears, honeysuckle, citrus tang of lemon and mandarin orange, white pepper, and a little wax yet no wane.

Pairs w Cheez-It’s: more smooth less tang

Etienne Terblance and Stephanie Wild both come from wine in their life. Young Etienne helped out in his parents’ seaside restaurant and then took off for school and received a Masters degree in Viticulture and Oenology from Montpellier SupAgro and a PhD in Viticulture from Stellenbosch University. Stephanie’s history is little different. Her grandfather was the well known Niel Joubert, founder of the Stellenbosch Wine Route. She also holds a Masters from Stellenbosch University in Viticulture and Oenology, and everywhere I google, I see her on lists for top South African women winemakers, and top winemakers in general. Often I write about power teams like this and they are married couples but in this case, they’re friends. Their combined knowledge, experience and expertise has led them to pick the perfect spots for their vineyards, like the one for this Chenin Blanc. Duwweltjie vineyard named (fondly or maybe not so fondly) after the plant that translates to Devil’s thorns, that can puncture anything from shoes to rubber tires, etc and generally be a real pain in the ass. Just check out the label. Well, that annoyance is worth it to get to these 65 or so year old vines. I’d gladly be willing to take a wander through these plants just to get a case of these beauts.

Sidenote: as I mentioned before they are not a couple but it warms my heart to see on the site that they give shout outs to their families. Etienne is a father to Elmie (human), Ben (canine) and husband to Lizanda. Stephanie is wife to Kannas, and mother to Frances (human) and Khalessi & Khumba (canines). Reading this put a smile on my face.

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Culinary Pampering

Štekar Wines
Sıvı Pinot 2019
100% Sivi Pinot (Pinot Gris)
Goriška Brda Z.G.P.
Kojsko, Littoral, Slovenia
Organic, biodynamic
Winemaker: Jure Štekar

Copper color like one of those beautiful old bowls Julia Child used to whisk away in. Wafts of orange, grapefruit, melon, and a little fresh grass. Lots of fruit dance on my tongue. There’s an orange melon of some sort, pear but crisp and almost not fully ripe, and as it opens peaches come forward with smoke, Also a bitter herb that I am having trouble pinpointing. This beautiful glass just feels creamy and mellow. Lovely.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: turns the bitter herb into rosemary

Štekar Wines is fairly young but they are one of the first wineries in Slovenia certified biodynamic. Along with the vineyard, they also have a farm, the main house with rooms to stay over and a whole agrotourism package. You can stay, view the beautiful countryside, taste their wines, join them in the kitchen to learn their recipes, and get as they call it, “Culinary Pampering”. The pics of their dishes look absolutely amazing and creative. Oh, please scroll down and look at those cakes! They look heavenly, and I feel pounds adding to my thighs just looking at them. Most of the ingredients from vegetables, fruits, and meat are from the farm, or if they don’t have it they reach out to organic producers. They sum up it all best, “Visit us and participate in the unforgettable experience of the wonderful Goriška Brda hills and the magic of our climate.” Oh, I so wish I could be there. We could all need a little magic right now!

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Abracadabra!

Quartomoro
Z
Frizzante sui Lieviti
100% Vermentino
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, guyot training, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Hazy golden bubbly with pretty sediment just waiting for you at the base. Pop that cap and come on lemon! You know those light layered wafer cookies that has lemon cream between each layer. Also some tangerine and dainty white flowers. Lift and swig and more lemon on my tongue with a tad of grapefruit, apple, pinch of salt, and a savory mix of spices: sage, thyme rosemary, and a toasty cinnamon thing. It’s crispy and bouncy, and I’m just realizing there’s reminders of Orangina. Fabulous sparkler and IPA lovers would have fun with it too. Best of both worlds

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: no complaints here

Quartomoro has been creating this beauty since 2012. Almost feels like an ancient science experiment, but then so do most wines when you really think about it. From what I read, they take last year’s non bubbly Vermentino (on the lees) and re-ferment the dry base in the bottle and then add the next year’s freshly crushed juice, skin, seed mixture (the must) and the ancestral method works it’s magic. Abracadabra! You have this unfined, unfiltered and non vintage bottle. I’m guessing, I’m drinking a mix of 2018 and 2019, due to the harvests being in September, but feel free to let me know if I’m wrong. It’s nice to think I’m sipping something from before all this 2020 mess. Here’s again to 2021! Raise that glass of frizzante and welcome this New Year in with a big smooch!

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Frogs and Fernet

Letherbee Distillers
Fernet
35% ABV
Chicago, Illinois
Over 20 botanicals
Distiller: Brenton Engel (and team)

Medium coffee color with no milk color or some of that black smoked tea that I drink that everyone complains about. Poured and served neat and what a pow, zing, bam, to my nose. Insanely herbal but greatly welcome. There’s pine, dried orange peels, parsnips, rhubarb, cloves, spearmint, eucalyptus, and Christmas incense. Ok so let’s see what this swirl of scents taste like. It’s every bit of all of the above and more. A total wake up call with that starts with a bang, but then goes smooth and healing. You can sip this all night on it’s own or come up with a fun cocktail on your own, or if you have a hangover (last night was New Year’s Eve, ya know) then this may help.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: No, no, no, no, NO!

In just 13 years, Brenton Engel went from being a moonshiner playing in Pool of Frogs to now where he has an internationally distributed and highly praised distillery. While he was still bartending he was tinkering with those first batches and tuning botanical recipes until he got it just right. He drifted from moonshine, to what has now grown into their whole line of Original Label Gin, Barrel­-Aged Absinthe, Autumnal & Vernal Gins, Bësk, and Fernet. Letherbee (Let them be!) has also given back to the community. Back in March they temporarily paused their gin production to make hand sanitizer. Now that’s a good hearted thing to do.

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One Promise Kept This Past Year

Golden West
The Promise
Pinot Noir 2018
100% Pinot Noir
Quincy, Washington State
Winemaker: Charles West

Glistening garnet glass. After uncorking there’s butter then poof gone. Followed by cherry, coriander, some leather, plums, vanilla (hmm), strawberries, and blueberries. Tasting cherries, dark plum, and raisin as I expected but then there’s a little watercress. I swear, it is there. Then some vanilla, thyme, and toasted rosemary.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: doesn’t really change anything

Golden West is the latest of Charles West’s countless projects. This is definitely a man with a creative need to never be still. He managed rock bands touring through Europe. Fell in love with wine on those travels. Later hit the Walla Walla trail and was turned on to making wine. As time went on awards and recognitions piled up. You’ve probably seen the distinct graphics (by Rikke Korff) on his “Modernist Project” from wines like Kung Fu Girl Riesling and Boom Boom! Syrah. Golden West – The New Classic, is his new way of bringing great quality Pinot Noir to the public at a price that won’t kill your wallet. He has totally made his “The Promise” to all of us reality. Wondering what he has been doing over this past year, and what new project or conquest comes next!

Being an 80s child, you have to know what song is now stuck in my head, so passing it along to you too.

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Oh, You Lovely Old Indigenous Grape You

Quartomoro
Òrriu di Sardegna 2018
sulle bucce
100% Vernaccia di Oristano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Beautiful gold like the the ring I’d like on my finger. Sniffing mandarin orange, lemon zest, lilac, salt, and also hints of grapefruit and honeysuckle blossoms. Tasting lots of citrus, some darkness of deep melon, honey, vanilla, flowers and of course almond. This is a beautiful rich gift wrapped up in a bow with a cork on top.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: NOPE! Makes it bitter

Oh, you lovely old indigenous grape you, Vernaccia di Oristano. I swear Sardinia produces some of the most beautiful grapes. Why the heck haven’t I visited there yet? Just you wait, once this pandemic is under control, my bags are packed. So, I’m reading there’s a tale that if you drink a good bit of Vernaccia, it will ward off malaria. Definitely curious to see who came up with that, how tipsy they were, and how much of it is true, because hey you never know. As I wrote in my post “Genie in a Bottle” on the rare grape Granazza (Granatza), some people mistake that grape for Vernaccia di Oristano. There are similarities, but each is an entirely different beast. Also Piero Cella and Luciana Baso’s creation is of a more modern style Vernaccia and lighter than the old more traditional oxidized and sherry-like styles. They let that grape sing! It’s rich, fresh, and full of life! Cheers!

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Farm to Table Holiday

Five Farms
Single batch Irish Cream Liqueur
17% ABV
County Cork, Ireland

Light caramel milk chocolate on the rocks. Breathing in luscious cream, vanilla, and caramel. Rolling this around in my mouth and there’s that heavenly cream again, chocolate delight, coffee, sugar cookies with sprinkles, and again that addictive caramel. I really want a chocolate chip cookie or a thin extra salty pretzel.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Just don’t!

Touted to be the best Irish Cream Liqueur, and boy I think it probably is. There’s such smooth beauty in this mixture of single batches of fresh cream combined with premium triple-distilled Irish Whiskey. The five farms where the cream is sourced (hence the name) have as they call “happy cows” that roam pastures chomping on grass during the day. I’m a firm believer in treat your cows right, let them have a relaxed life filled with fresh air, and you can always taste the difference in cream, butter, etc. Oh and I followed the instructions and served it on the rocks, and I highly recommend it. This is the perfect holiday in a glass!

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Harmonic Symphony

Quartomoro
Òrriu Cannonau di Sardegna 2018
100% Cannonau
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Vibrant ruby glory! When the cork came out it was a cloud of vanilla, dark depth, flowers, forest and cherries of course. Sweet yet tangy fragrance makes me think of ponzu sauce.  Dark and rich flavors of plum, cherries, blueberries, dried figs, and a pinch of Sumac.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Plum turns to sweet prune. Just smooth

A little bird sat on my shoulder and whispered, “Rumor has it that this is the best Cannonau right now!” My feathered friend is definitely onto something. Even though this is a young vineyard (located in the Marrubiu vineyard) the pulverized volacnic/granite enrichment of the soil brings out the best of these grapes. As Piero Cella says, “Our goal is always to make a harmonic symphony from the grapes and to put that into our bottles, at the same time with the real essence of our island.” Harmonic symphony is a very lovely way to put it. It’s as graceful and rich as their wine…and guess what? I have two more of their bottles in the mix to try in the near future. It’s going to be a fun week!

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Let’s Do Some Winter Grilling

Cantine Due Palme
Sangaetano 2018
Primitivo di Manduria DOP
Puglia, Italy
Aged 6 months in American oak barriques
Winemaker Angelo Maci
*If this is on D.O.C. Wine Bar’s menu for delivery/takeout, grab a bottle and order the lamb chops and if you still want more get the meatballs. Perfect pairing.

Deep ruby with hints of violet. Aromas of cherries, vanilla, and a little oak but not overpowering just enhancing the warmth. It’s a lively sip of fresh cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black pepper, and a snap of chocolate that’s turned to the dark side. Dry and ready for us to do some holiday grilling! Would love some really spicy sausages right now!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more smooth and silk

Even though Cantine Due Palme produces around 12 million bottles a year, Angelo Maci has stayed dedicated to quality and sticking with the “Alberello Pugliese” bushvine training system, limiting chemicals in the vineyard, and absolutely no insecticides. They’re even continually working toward greater sustainability. That’s a whole lot of work and dedication for such a large and award winning operation.

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Pass the Fried Chicken

Domaine Christophe Pacalet
Beaujolais Nouveau 2019
Gamay
Beaujolais AOP
Les Bruyères, Cercie, France
Native yeasts, hand harvested, “lutte raisonnée” vine cultivation
Winemaker: Christophe Pacalet

Light young garnet. Open that door and release that touch of barn that runs out the yard. Next are aromas of cinnamon, plum, raspberries, cloves, and cherries. Taking the first sip and there’s more of that plum with a touch of sharp twang, chocolate, cherry (but not chocolate covered cherries), smoke, a ping of orange, and oddly blueberry and mango.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just more juicy

Christophe Pacalet did have wine in his blood but took on a stint of biochemistry and cooking before returning to Beaujolais to learn from his famed (Morgon) uncle Marcel Lapierre. Who better to guide him along this path. Christophe has taken the route of renting instead of purchasing a vineyard. This gives him a chance to work with old vines and pick from the best. Yes, there’s less grapes, but better wine in the end. Have to add, this is a great wine for southern food. Seriously, it is. It went fab with my potato salad with hot peppers and capers. Also would work well with a good homemade fried chicken, especially the legs and thighs. Just remember, as I was taught by my mom…if you want good fried chicken soak it in salt water in the fridge over night. Don’t forget to make a side of jalapeño cornbread and mustard greens doused in hot pepper vinegar too, for a delicious evening you aren’t soon to forget.

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