Tiny Bubbles

Recaredo
Terres Brut Nature 2014
Corpinnat
Sant Sadurni D’Anola
Xarel·lo 56%, Macabeu 42%, Parellada 2%
Sant Sadurni D’Anoia, Penedès, Spain
Sustainable farming, biodynamic, hand-picked, Indigenous grapes and yeasts

Gold and glistening with tiny bubbles. Now this is quite a mix in my nose…lemon, lime, peaches, apples, all spice, basil, and brown sugar/caramel. Fragrant surprise! Now sipping and a little swish and again lemon-lime mix, apples, strawberries, cardamon, toasty pastry and toasted rice (you know like the type sizzling in the bottom of your clay bowl of bibimbap). It’s not a pie, but it makes me just as happy!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just tastes good with it. No complaints. Any bar that has this by the glass should set these out and they’ll drink more

“We learn from time…we build on a history”, greets you at Recaredo’s site, and they definitely are following through on this quote. It all started back in 1924, when Josep Mata Capellades started in the working world of sparkling and undertaking making his own cellar in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (Barcelona). 1944 rolls around, and now he’s named his winery after his father, Recaredo Mata Figueres. As time flies, his sons come on board and this family winery is becoming distinct for their long aging, their terroir focused sparkling, and sticking with natural cork stoppers. By the 90s it was the third generation and 2006, they embrace going biodynamic. 2017, brings about a reward for all the years of hard work being named, Catalonia’s Best Winery by the ACS. And now we get to my favorite part, 2018 is when they joined Corpinnat. To take this on you must be 100% sustainable, hand harvested grapes that are mainly indigenous from Penedès, and made all at the winery with a longer aging time of at least 18 months in the bottle and more. Heck, this bottle aged 49 months. It’s a step above, a bit strict but proves their dedication to their grapes, method and the Penedès region, and it really pays off with this bottle.

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Getting the Mix Right

Celler Frisach
L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre 2019
Garnatxa Negra 60%, Carinyena 40%
Terra Alta D.O.
Corbera d’Ebre, Catalonia, Spain
Organic and Biodynamic
Winemaker brothers: Francesc and Joan Ferre

Light cherry garnet color. After uncorking there’s cherries, plums, tiny flowers, and some dark natural earthy funk but not as much in previous ones I have had. There’s also almond and something toasty like biscotti. As for taste, there’s light cherry dancing with a little sprig of hay. Raspberry comes next, a pinch of pine, smooth cherry jolly rancher, and juicy plums with a mix of dried ones too. Moving on to the tingle on the tongue, almond, white pepper, and at the end there’s chocolate but so lovely and light. Quite a mouthful, but it all works together so well.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Tart!

This isn’t the first time I’ve encountered L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre, but it was quite a while ago with a different label and a much stronger natural funk that hung around. I was so happy when I opened the  2019, and it is a bottle of perfection. They got the mix just right. This is one of those wines where you’re kicking yourself for not having a second bottle. Not going to lie, I did not share this with anyone because no way this one is all mine.

Francesc and Joan transformed their 200 year old family farm/vineyard into Celler Frisach back in 2009, but evidently their family had been doing it in an organic manner all those past years. Coming from this farm experience they want their vineyards to stick to the same historic integrity and also look to the future of experimenting with the grape and furthering the eco-friendly and certified organic aspects of their farming. Their L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre, the Garnatxa Negra and the Carinyena grapes are now grown in the blended farming way of the past. They grow together yet in two different plots within their land, to get the best result for the grapes and then harmonize in this bottle. As many of the wine families I’ve written about, Francesc and Joan have that same dedication and respect to their heritage, land, vineyards and Terra Alta. As they say on their site, “We are roots, we are Corbera, we are wine”.

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Mr. Moonlight

Domaine des Carabiniers
Lunar Apogé
100% Syrah
IGP Pays d’OC 2018
Roquemaure, France
Biodynamic, organic, dry farmed, hand harvested at night to prevent oxidation, and native yeasts
Founder and winemaker: Christian Leperchois; Vineyard Manager & Maître de Chai: Fabien Leperchois

Ruby garnet bling. Popping out cherry scents, roses, plums, Tampa cigar rolling tobacco leaves…yeah, I went to school down there for a little bit, and toasted rosemary. Dark cherry luscious tastes that turns into a cherry tart hand pie, juicy plums, raspberries, strawberries, dried cherries, chewing fresh rosemary and nibbling on an orange peel. Smoooooth as it opens up. Tasted during Full “Wolf Moon”, it’s less about howling, and more about warm nuzzling.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it deeper, richer

This is a history of wine born in Tuscany and then transplanted to France. After settling in their new country, the Leperchois family started with 3 hectares and is now up to 50 (potentially still growing) and in 1990 became organic and 2006 biodynamic. Even with their growth, they are keeping it truly a family operation and focusing on quality. Just check out their pics on their site which also include their adorable little black panther Vestide who was found, or found them in their vines. Domaine des Carabiniers’ Lunar Apogé line gives a nod to the lunar calendar and how it is an important part of cycle of the vines and wine just like climate, soil, weather, and how you let nature do it’s thing. As Fabien says on their site, “To make a good wine, you need to have good grapes. Nature does the rest. A Maître de Chai is first and foremost a wine-grower, more so with Biodynamic farming.” Sometimes, as in this beautiful wine, less is more.

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Pour Another and Sing to My Heart

Bodegas Grupo Yllera
Boada
Campo de bueyes
Crianza 2014
D.O. Ribera del Duero
Boada de Roa, Burgos, Spain
100% Tempranillo
Hand harvested, 6 months in French (Allier) and American oak barrels

This is dark, dark, dark, ruby purple…I can’t see through it. Uncork and here comes oak, caramel, cocoa, raspberry, blueberries, vanilla, plums, and gold ol’ cherry. First sip and realize it’s rustic yet velvety. There’s oak, a delicious vanilla wafer dipped in a smidge of caramel, cherries, some lovely portiness, blueberries, raspberries, tellicherry peppercorn, dark chocolate and coffee. Kind of like a little mole sauce. Where’s my side of saffron rice? In the end this juicy goblet has a nice dry finish.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just wants me to have another glass

Grupo Yllera is in its 6th generation and has over time acquired wineries and vineyards that had been pretty much given up on or were amenable for a sale. They also acquire grapes from some cooperatives, but are strict across the board on quality. Vines have to be of a “certain age” (wow, I can’t believe I’m using that term as a good one), and the company as a whole strives to reduce their impact on the environment albeit from residue to emissions to water. This may be a large group, but as they say on their site, “At Grupo Yllera wineries we consider ourselves a great little family.” Well, this extended family received a Decanter Bronze for this velvet beauty, so hats off to that! There’s just something about this wine that is hard to put into words. It’s more than the smell and taste, but the emotion it brings out. While sipping last night, my thoughts drifted to an old memory and an old well loved song that always makes my heart hurt in a good way. Tom Waits’ “I Hope That I Don’t Fall In Love With You” is what is in this bottle, or at least for me. I know most people would think, it would be a cigarette and whisky neat, but give this Boada a try and let me know how you feel.

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Finding the Real Dory

AdegaMãe
Dory
vinho tinto 2019
IG Lisboa
Turcifal, Portugal
Touriga Nacional 38%, Syrah 27%, Pinot Noir 12%, Aragonez 23%
Winemakers: Anselmo Mendes and Diogo Lopes

Cherry purple gothiness. Uncork and let it breathe…then exhale and breathe in deep cherry, plum, baking chocolate, and warm pepper. Another deep hug in a glass. Rolling around back and forth over my tongue and there’s cherries, strawberries, blueberries, fresh picked blackberries seeds and all, and fenugreek. Nice and juicy and a happy wine. Don’t over think it. Just enjoy and maybe order some bacalhau croquettes. Mmmmm.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it more velvet, sweet, glorious

Dory’s name comes from a nod to the small shallow boats the cod fishermen of old (not the cute Pixar/Disney fish). One would wonder, why that? Well, João António Alves founder of AdegaMãe, is also the founder of Riberalves which is the leader of cod in Portugal. He and his family now have a hand in two of the best of Portugal, wine and cod (bacalhau). The more I read on the history of how the fishermen used to travel so insanely far and believe me not in a luxurious quarters, I wonder at their amazing physical and mental strength and endurance. Once the home base ship ended up in Newfoundland they’d take off in the smaller one man boats (Dóris) into perilous waters and fish their fill, return to the main and immediately salt the fish. These guys make “Deadliest Catch” look like child’s play.

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It’s All in The Family

Weingut Steininger
Grüner Veltliner
Ried Loisium
Kamptal Reserve DAC 2018
Langenlois, Kamptal, Austria
100% Grüner Veltliner
Sustainable farming and vegan
Winemakers: Karl Steininger and his son-in-law Peter

Deep rich gold color. A fresh breath of Golden Delicious apples, pears, apple blossoms, grass, granite, and a dreamy and elevated feeling. First sip and it is like truly biting into a fresh Golden Delicious apple just picked from the tree (sweet and some tart/fresh), then poached pears, honey, granite, dried sage, white pepper. All this in the party and a dry ending. Why do I want a thin crispy slice of fried bacon? It’s an elixir of love.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more sweet. Less dry, but still addictive

I’m going to admit, I’ve had some pretty crappy Grüner Veltliner’s by the glass in restaurants in the past. I was nervous but happily surprised. This one is awesome. From what I’m reading it’s partially indebted to where Weingut Steininger is located in Langenlois in the Kamptal region where it sounds like the area revolves around wine in all aspects of its culture. This is another tale of wine passing down through the family where Karl and Brigitta inherited the vines/farm from his parents. Realizing if they were going to do this right, Karl went to oenology school and they both decided to focus on local grapes of the highest quality (that also played well with the land and climate) if they were going to make it. Didn’t hurt that Brigitta grew up in a wine family too. They have passed their knowledge on to their daughters and each has chosen their own path. Eva and her husband Peter are already hands on in the winery. Lisa studied tourism but came back to the winery, married João Fonseca and they birthed Steininger Kraftvoll which is a port style wine, and I really want to try it if I can find it. Lastly their daughter Anna didn’t stray from wine or Kamptal either, but she and her husband Martin Arndorfer forged on and opened their own winery. I guess it truly is all in the family.

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Brother Wolf, Sister Moon

La garagista Farm + Winery
Loups-Garoux 2017
Vermont Rouge
Barnard, VT
Frontenac Noir
Organic, biodynamic, unfined, unfiltered
Winemaker: Deirdre Heekin with Caleb Barber, and Camila Carrillo

Deepest darkest red velvet with some activity on top center. At first sniff, massive cherries and flowers (maybe roses), then dark raisins and other dried fruit, oak, warm spice and dark cocoa. Staring at that activity in the glass, lift, and sip and it’s tingly like tiny popping bubbles. There’s tart cherry, dried plums, white raisins, figs… lots and lots of figs, a little lemon, wild herbs, cranberries, and strawberries as it warms up. It’s free, deep, fresh, wild, unabashed and romantic all at the same time

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: More tingly and sweeter

When I think Vermont, my mind always goes to cheese and Sugar Glider Kitchen run by my favorite pastry chef, Gesine Bullock-Prado. So when I see Vermont wine, I’m intrigued. Reading about Deirdre Heekin, and she sounds like when she gets her mind set to something, she not only does it but perfects it. Natural wine seemed to call out to her from her and her husband’s restaurant and her travels. Eventually she decided to embark on her own and even started out making it in her bathtub. I really hope they had a second in their house. She also researched grapes that could work with Vermont’s climate and some of these ended up being hybrids such as the grape in Loups-Garoux: Frontenac Noir (a hybrid of Landot Noir and Vitis riparia [also known as riverbank grape]). Wow, what a grape, seriously. It’s not only the grapes that they select, that build the beauty of their alpine wines, ciders, and other bottles they dream up; it’s the fact that the vines and the farm all blend and weave into each other. You’ll find chickens and other creatures (not werewolves) roaming free, vegetables planted between vines, all sorts of flowers flowing, and bees bopping along. Oh, and when we’re out of this mess, maybe the pop-ups will return, they’ll open their tasting room doors, and there’ll be a chance to enjoy the fruits of their labor in their homegrown dishes paired with their wines. If you want to get word, join their newsletter on their site. I’m about to sign up right now.

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Beauty on a High Hill

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2019
Toscano Bianco IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
Chardonnay 70%, Trebbiano 30%
Organic, guyot, and hand harvested
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Pale shining gold. Scents pop out of cantaloupes, honeydew, a little smoky/peat but seriously delicate, Red Delicious apples and a faint whiff of their blossoms. Also smidge of salt and something mineral or the more I think of it if you have ever stripped a fresh apple branch, it’s that smell. Its green, clean, and grounding. First sip and there’s a small squeeze of lemon like one wedge hanging on the side of your glass, muskmelon, honeydew, peaches, Red and Golden delicious apples, and honey that tastes like it had a walnut aging in it for a while…Mmmm. A little oak warmth that turns to smoke with a lick of salt but nothing overpowering. I read someone mention harsh at the end, but there is nothing harsh unless you think a basic tiny lemon squeeze harsh. All I know is I want some west coast oysters with mignonette right now.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: a little more dark nightshade, some grass and a little more rich and round

Sea level means so much in cooking, baking, and farming. While 515 meters S.L.M. is not good for cooking grits (you seriously have to have the right sea level for southern certified grits), it is fabulous for these grapes. Robert Buly enlisted his cousin Giulio to help in the search for the perfect place for him to get back to his family’s “deep roots”, in 2006, Podere Collalto (farm on a high hill) came up for sale. What’s even better it was only 6 miles from his cousin’s place. It has it all…great sunlight. beautiful summer breeze, rugged good soil and plenty of room for a vineyard and olive trees. Check out the site for images from their enchanting little part of the world, it will brighten your day.

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Cock-A-Doodle-Doo!

Domaine la Grangette 
CocoriKo 2018
Côtes de Thau IGP
100% Piquepoul Noir
Sustainable/Lutte raisonnée agriculture and heading organic
Castelnau-de-Guers, Languedoc, France
Winemakers: Christelle & Mathieu Caron

Dark cherry with blue-purple highlights (takes me back to my Manic Panic days). Fragrant cherries, roses, strawberries but it reminds me of the smell of the ones they put on a sundae. Also salt and faint licorice. Sipping and it’s smooth baby… with tastes of cherry, cocoa, strawberries, blueberries, singed sage, and a little salty whisper.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more rich and dark

Have had many blanc bottles enjoyed in the summertime warmth of the sun, but this is my first 100% Piquepoul Noir which is one of the 13 grapes permitted in Châteauneuf du Pape. Wow, what a happy, fresh, juicy, and fun wine. And such a plump little chickie/rooster on the label whose call “Cocoriko” is this bottle’s namesake. Domaine la Grangette was passed down by Christelle’s parents in 2013, and they are doing something pretty special. They are the only Piquepoul vineyard working with all three colors, and I’m wishing I had the white and rosé to try side by side. The Domaine has forests, trails, and wonderful soil as it was used for farming (grains and alfalfa) since the French Revolution, and even before that their had been ancient lakes and and sea coverage creating the terroir. Now with their use of lutte raisonnée agriculture, they replenish the land post harvest with plowing the cuttings and such back under and giving back to the earth. Kind of their version of the circle of life…yes, you can now thank me for having that song stuck in your head for the rest of the day. Cheers!

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Be a Rebel

Weingut Loacker
Santa Maddalena Classico Morit
Alto Adige DOC 2017
Vernatsch 87%, Lagrein 10%, Pinot Noir 3%
Bolzano, Italy
Organic, biodynamic, vegan, and native yeasts
Founded by Rainer Loacker and is now in the hands of his sons Franz Josef, Hayo, and Hannes

Bright cheery cherry ruby color. After pouring my nose is getting some butter at first but let that glass sit a little while and then don’t think of it again. Then comes the cherries, plums, pinch of pepper, sweet spring flowers, rosemary, and some creaminess with a faint sugar cookie with sprinkles. Wow, that was a lot and I’m wondering if the taste is heading the same way, and I’m not disappointed. There’s tart cherry brightness, bring on the funk that plum funk, strawberries, wild blueberries, black pepper, smoke, and as it rolls it’s velvet with a small orange zest kick One more thing to add, do not be an idiot like me. I was preoccupied and didn’t notice there is a glass stopper and wondered why my opener wasn’t going in. Feel free to laugh at me all you want.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth dark cherry mmmm

Rainer Loacker is yes, that Loacker from the wafer world. You remember those addictive little cookies? In 1979, Rainer saw himself as a rebel in the region, since he knew his winery had to be sustainable. The vines even get homeopathic treatment. Rainer’s vision, which at the time was very much not the norm, and as he says in the video (please click and hear his own words) people told him “Organic wine doesn’t interest us.” He was even called out of his mind. Well, look how much times have changed, and how right his decision was. From this bottle alone, I can attest his diligence has created this delicious, delightful wine. Also according to their site, Santa Maddalena Classico Morit 2017, is not only sustainable, but also organic and vegan. By the way, there are two more vineyards in their hands, and they all hold to the same standards. Do it natural, respect those beautiful lands and you have a recipe for success!

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