Let Them Speak & Listen

Dönnhoff Estate
Riesling Trocken 2023
Oberhäusen, Nahe, Germany
Dönnhoff family: Cornelius Dönnhoff (current & 4th generation)

Twinkle twinkle little light yellow green star. Sniffing pears, lemon, mild apples, honeydew, a slightly musky mango, as it grows Valencia orange with a clean stainless smell, roses and a few other flowers that make you smile. All of the scents are there in the elixir rolling around on my tongue, but the mango is oh so clean with a dry lime zest/citrus sizzle that crisps more the further back and makes me crave west coast oysters….actually the more I taste…I’d prefer warm very crisp thin bacon and as time goes by maybe even a sourdough BLT.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so lovely and gentle

The Dönnhoffs’ heritage in Oberhausen an der Nahe is well over 250 years with the earliest mention of vines in 1761. Cornelius’s great grandfather Hermann paved the way for their winery and lands as they are now with his first wines back in 1920s. As one would expect they grew but only just enough so they could devote their time and space to care for them properly. As they say “The vineyards speak for themselves. You have to listen to them.” and if you pay attention they will give you the best wine. ❤️

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Do I Need A Decoder Ring?

Fabien Jouves
H@*T€ Côt de Fruit 2023
100% Malbec
Organic
Cahors, France
Winemaker: The man, the legend…FJ

Deep purple with a maroon rim. Breathing in cherry, blackberry, dark plums, a drop of blueberry that swirls into boysenberries, touch of vanilla followed by warm holiday spice, and an earthy depth but not poop wine (you know what I’m talking about). Sipping bright cherry, raspberry, young strawberry, red & black currants, sprig of wild sour grass, rhubarb, and as it breathes there’s more layers that keep emerging so enjoy the ride.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NON NON NON

Let me just simply say, I love Fabien Jouves’ wines. He’s a master of Malbec (Côt), cares more about keeping it biodynamic/natural than following the wine rules, and has a way with words…especially on his labels such as “Soif d’Ailleurs” (translates to “Thirst for Elsewhere”), “You F&@K My Wine ?!”, and “Haute Côt(e) de Fruit” taking a jab at “Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuit”. Leads me to wonder why this one is spelled a bit differently “H@*T€ Côt de Fruit”. I’ve searched, asked & had some answers about labeling, but so far the spelling is still a mystery. If you’re still reading at this point, and have any inkling as to this moniker…please satisfy my curiosity by revealing the secret. Do I need a decoder ring? 🤔 Whatever the reasoning, I hope he keeps them coming because oh do they make me smile.

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Why Rush? Just Breathe…

The Central Coast Group Project
Obscure Object of Desire 2014
Viognier
Santa Barbara, CA
Grapes locally sourced from organic/sustainable vineyards, unfined & unfiltered
Winemaker & owner: Scott Sampler

Shining electric orange amber. Let this baby breathe a while and then scents appear of tangerines, orange rinds, a sherry/calvados mashup, hazelnuts that morph into coconut,  teeny bit of pineapple, and a few little orange blossoms. Sipping all of the scents with a touch of honey & an alcohol burn, followed by pickled watermelon rind, and candied orange peel.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NO

Scott Sampler is definitely a Renaissance man…a lover of the arts, filmmaker, has great appreciation of food & wine (& wine coolers), and he melds all the fields together in CCGP (and his other wines “L’Age d’Or” & “Scotty Boy”). You know, I almost didn’t give this wine the time it needs to be appreciated and that would have been a great mistake. The world so often keeps everything running at full throttle and sometimes special events just get overlooked and rushed through. This is not one of those moments. “Obscure Object of Desire” as other CCGP wines have lengthy maceration/fermentation times and are made to age. So take some time to spend with this glass as you would with a dear old friend you have not seen in years…I guarantee you will be having a long & beautiful conversation.

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This Is Not My Grandfather’s Wine

Terra di Seta
480 slm 2018
Chianti Classico DOCG
Sangiovese 95%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%
Organic, Kosher, sustainable agriculture
Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Tuscany, Italy
Daniele Della Seta (husband) & Maria Pellegrini (wife)

Ruby stained glass. Scents float up of plums, prunes, dried & fresh cherries, raisins, smooth & expressive violets, a classic bit of leather book binding with a dash of tobacco that morphs into crunchy raspberries & smoke, and a dash of cloves, fennel, warm spice/pepper blend. All of the scents are in the taste along with dried figs, pomegranate, red currants, dark olives, fennel, and a modern light gentle dry dance that echos classical footsteps.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: a good bitter dried fruit richness

Must be wonderful to work side by side with the one you love, and also love your work. Maria’s from a winemaking family while Daniele’s background is in biology and from what I’ve found they both have their hands in every aspect of their organic farm, winery & wine tourism farmhouse “Le Macie” that looks like a place you would never want to leave (there’s an infinity pool & some of the apts have AC!). They also are “the only winery in Italy whose entire wine production, from its grapes – since 2008 – is supervised by strict Kosher certification”. Long ago when I was a kid, the only Kosher wine that my grandfather used to pick up to have with the holiday fruitcake was let’s say a certain Concord grape concoction that I bet many of you had the same reaction to it as I did 🤮. I can happily say “Terra di Seta” is definitely not my grandparents wine…it’s heavenly.

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Take Time To Smell The Roses Or Better Yet The Wine

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni
Felice Modica
Filinona 2020
Nero d’Avola
Eloro DOC
Noto (SR), Sicily, Italy
Modica family

Deep dark garnet. There’s scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, an Oreo cream center that eases off and fades, bell pepper, dates, dried figs, and as it opens a rich tapestry of them all with sage & rosemary woven in with the rest. Sipping away and again cherries & plums along with raspberries, blackberries, cranberry, pomegranate, a reminder of an apple tree twig I’ve whittled and chewed on as a kid, twinge of bell pepper, dark olives, and a little bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just lush

For over 200 years the Modica family has farmed their lands (300+ ha) and tended to their olive & almond trees, citrus fruit, and their vineyards. Their wine “Filinona” is a nod to the beauty of the Sicilian language (recognized as a minority language by UNESCO) and of their tradition of a “siesta” or a daily time to rest in the while the sun is at its hottest. Honestly, I would love if we had that tradition here where it’s so easy to get caught up in work and not take time to stop and smell the roses or better yet a time to relax with a little wine. Maybe that is reason the Modica family are so productive with their wine, olive oil, beer “Passo di miele”, and as I discovered their Palazzo Modica. What a breathtaking historical place which over time has adapted in size and use due to the needs or wishes of the generations. While there still is a section that is private residence, there is also a more public side with a restaurant/pizzeria, a museum, event space, and now you can book a room to sleep in a blend of modern & antique luxury and for some a terrace with beautiful views of Noto. I can hardly think of anything more romantic than relaxing there under the twinkling stars raising a glass to history.

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Following The Dream

Textura
Pretexto Tinto 2020
Dão DOC
Jaen, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro
Sustainable, organic
São Paio, Gouveia, Portugal
Marcelo Araujo & family
Winemaker: Luis Seabra

Ruby purple that’s so deep I can’t see my fingers on the other side of the glass. Sniff and there’s cherries, tart & a few dark plums &  touch of prunes, raspberries, tomato leaves, fresh pulled beets, and as it opens a floral moment of tiny roses. Sipping & again cherries, tart & dark plums, green tomatoes warm from the backyard, dried herbs (oregano, rosemary, pinch of sage), young strawberries, blackberries, boysenberries, and a lemon/lime zest moment. Smooth, fresh and easy to love.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: ack ack ack awful

So what do you do if you realize you love wine more than your old job in Brazil? If you’re like Marcelo Araujo you follow your passion, but you also follow a well thought out plan. He & his family found the right plots in Portugal, the right people (Mariana Salvador & Luis Seabra) to help guide the way, and utilize what is already there like the 100+ year old textile factory that they renovated into their winery, wine bar, and a space for “wine tourism” which celebrates the native grapes that make as they say their “wines of character”, local recipes, culture, and of course nature since they are nestled right near Serra da Estrela Natural Park where you can find Eurasian eagle-owls (wow are they huge!), Common genet (so freaking cute), wolves, boars, and so much more. Who wouldn’t want to follow a passion and end up in such an enchanting place that you can call home? They are definitely living the dream, or rather in their case the best wine life possible. 🍷❤️

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Family Expansions

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nerello Mascalese  
Terre Siciliane IGT
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Shiny garnet glass. Scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, pinch of vanilla that grows into dried figs & maybe dates too, touch of tomato leaves that turns into a smidge of drying tobacco leaves with a little smoke. Tasting again all sorts of cherries tart, tangy, fresh, dark & deep plums, young strawberries, raspberries, blackberries (seeds & all for that bite), and dried cranberries. It’s like a pinball bouncing around in the machine hitting flavors as it goes and it’s bright & fresh with a dryness on the back.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. You can do it like me from home on quite a few times now, or you can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. Come to think of it out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Ah man, decisions…decisions…what am I to do? Hop a plane or find a way to get one to fly to me. 🥂✈️

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Living in Harmony

Cascina Carlòt
Saròt
Arneis 2023
Langhe DOC
Sustainable, biodiverse
Coazzolo (AT) – Italy
Claudio Mo

Light spun straw. Breathing in lovely pears, green apples, a little Oreo center, touch of smoke, almond slivers, cantaloupe & honeydew, salty breeze and a tiny shake of pepper. Dancing on my tongue are melons of all sorts, pears, apples, starfruit, lemon/lime, papaya, a shake shake shake of salt with a savory mineral touch, and a lick of pineapple.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: fruity elegance

Even though Claudio Mo is a winemaker he prefers to go by winegrower, since he is “faithful to the – typically Piedmontese – philosophy that wine is made first of all in the vineyard and then in the cellar.” He also prefers to live in harmony with nature, to follow its rhythm, connect with all the cycles, and to live sustainably. This includes working toward a future of the farm eventually being energy self sufficient. What a beautiful gift to pass down to his family…or in other words as it greets you on his site, it is “Claudio’s dream come true”.

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Deers Gone Wild

P.A.N.K.
Sabotage 2022
Pét-Nat
100% Olaszrizling
Organic, hand harvested, spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, unfiltered, unfined, and undisgorged
Köveskál, Balatonfelvidék, Hungary
Winemaker: Attila Pálffy & Orsolya (his fiancée)

Orange with pink shimmers and teeny bubbles that disperse. Sniffing all sorts of oranges, orange blossoms, pears fresh & baked, tiny white spring flowers & other field flowers, touch of balsamic, honeysuckle, and a bit of a wild style. All the scents are in the swig with more pears, some apples & cider, along with pie spice, touch of smoke, lavender, a blend citrus zest, and Orangina.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: ack

7th gen winemaking family (Pálffy Pince), Attila Pálffy has his side project which shows his heritage’s knowledge and his rebellious side. P.A.N.K. is his creative outlet and experimental flare. From what I’m reading, he managed to tick off the Hungarian “wine police” with his haze & bio side which fits his love of punk and is very evident in his craft aesthetic. Once again, I am on the search for who the label artist is. It’s a bit of street art, fine art, and on this one & others a touch of the animals in Attila’s world. This bottle has a saucy deer giving you the one finger salute. Evidently a herd of these wild child marauders had one raucous party in the vines during one night of harvest. I guess even the animals in their neighborhood are punk rockers too. Btw if there’s a t-shirt of this artwork, please let me know where I can  click, buy & make it mine. 🦌

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You’ll Want To Linger

Domaine Balansa
La Vinhota 2022
VDF
Lledoner Pelut, Grenache Noir
Biodynamic, organic, hand harvested, indigenous yeasts
Hautes-Corbières, Aude, Occitanie, France
Céline Peyre & Alexandre Gressent

Stained glass garnet. Whoa at first the scents are all over the place in a good way. There’s cherry, strawberry, raspberry, pomegrante, violets & tiny flowers, touch of brine (olive), and tomato leaf/plant. Sipping dark & dried cherry, olives & pits, red currants, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, dried & fresh blueberries, red plums with skin, pits & all, and a pinch of white pepper.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: tangy and good

Celine’s family have passed down parcels of old vines through generations, but it wasn’t until she returned to her heritage that the grapes that had been previously headed to a co-op, were now sent in another direction. She & Alexandre decided to keep the grapes, create their own wines, and convert to biodynamic/organic. I’m a big fan of (as many are) of Grenache, but I think this is my first time being introduced to Lledoner Pelut (unless we met accidentally while out & about). It’s a fuzzy leafed mutation of Grenache that is less likely to be affected by rot, and with its location on sunny wind swept hills there’s even less of a chance for disappointment for it and all their other varieties. Speaking of disappointment, there is none here. This wine has been everything lovely, delightful, held up perfectly during tastings over several nights, and you’ll want to linger over each glass because once it’s gone you’ll wish for more. Oh and for those of you now stuck with a Cranberries song in your head, sorry I’m in the same boat.

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