The Little Grape That Could

Vinica
Lame del Sorbo 2015
Tintilia del Molise DOC
100% Tintilia
Ripalimosani, Molise, Italy
Organic, indigenous yeasts, guyot trained, dry farmed, green manure, hand picked, not filtered, and NO chemicals
Owner: Rodolfo Gianserra, Agronomist and winemaker: Pierluigi Cocchini, Company’s administrator: Giuseppe Tudino

Deep purple with blue tints. Tart cherries start tickling my nose, then blood orange, kumquat, a few pieces of hay, smokiness, and beautiful berries…raspberries and blueberries. First sip is a sizzle and tingle. Wow! Dark cherry, dried figs, plums, smoke and thyme. As it rolls around there’s Italian Green Cerignola pits, slight hay that I bet will leave and it does and day two was fully gone. When I exhale post sip there’s juniper berries. It’s like forest floor funk meets Riccola, but in a really good delicious way.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more dried fruit and dark juicy as well

Vinica or VI.NI.CA. was established in 2007 by the above three guys, and the name came from Rodolfo’s 3 kids names: Vittorio, Nicholas and Carola. I love all I’m reading about how they took abandoned land and created this beautiful pure farm/vineyard of 220 hectares (30 hectares for the vineyards, the rest are farm and woodland). They say the only ingredient they have added is healthy grapes. Well, I’m sure they aren’t thinking of the other ingredients of hard work and love. They planted the Tintilia in 2008, and I’m so glad they did. This little indigenous grape (the little grape that could) is only in Molise and received it’s DOC in 2010. It has a history of lower yields than others and potential issues with disease, so there was a worry it might get lost, but Molise (and the agronomist Giuseppe Mogavero) didn’t give up on it and here we are with 11 hectares in Vinica. Kind of gives me goosebumps that I’m tasting a part of Italy I’ve never been, and wants me to hug Rodolfo and Pierluigi for not placing this beautiful wine in oak. Thank you for letting me get to know a small ancient yet new to me grape in its pure form.

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Memories of Lives, Memories of Vines

Quartomoro
CRG
Memorie di Vite 2018
Red Wine
100% Carignano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, bush-trained vines, indigenous yeast, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Deep ruby with garnet rim. Roses bloom before your nose and as it opens butterfly lilacs, salt/sea breeze, figs, plums, cherries, and balsamic. Ok, maybe I’m crazy but it reminds me a little or Chef Stefano Baldantoni’s balsamic reduction which I am so in love with and could eat a vat. Tasting tart cherry mixed with that lovely balsamic reduction. There’s also blood orange zest, dried figs, dried oregano, salt, dates, and a dark, deep velvety richness. As it continues to grow…sweet, fragrant, smooth fine silk that’s not a princess…it’s a regal, rich, well dressed queen that in the end is draped in heavy tapestry garments.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sweet and smooth

When we can travel again, my frequent flier points are definitely leaning toward Italy (sorry Spain even though you know how much I love you). How many Sardinian wines (this is my 4th Quartomoro) have I fallen for and this 100% Carignano really pulls me. I have a huge thing for Carignano from being at times a blending grape to an elevation and respect of a solo, which is what Piero and Luciana are doing with their Memorie di Vite project. This grape is so fragrant and has such depth when grown and treated right. Quartomoro’s ungrafted pre filloxera vineyard (in Sulcis) was originally planted back in 1967 (before I was born) by a family friend and has zero chemicals messing with it. What a exquisite expression they’ve managed to capture through love and care of this historic, native grape. Ok, that does it. I’m changing my Babbel subscription back to Italian, and when the time comes my bags will be packed. Ciao!

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A Wine of Two Songs

United Colors of Wine
Luci Rosse 2019
Field blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rondinella with some white grapes (15%) like Garganega and Trebbiano
Mantova, Lombardia (near Garda’s Lake), Italy
Chemical free, organic, Guyot training, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Light bright reddish glass. Tart cherries and young hay tickle my nose. Next there’s smoke, raspberries, and orange zest. Oh and I forgot to add before getting on in there chill it, chill it good. Here comes the fun tastes of tart tingling cherries, strawberries (fresh and jammed), plum cobbler, smoke and some sizzle. Then lemons, tangerine, cloves, and a black and white pepper zing. Light, refreshing, so good chilled and has me longing for warmer climes and sun tan lines.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth sizzle with no hay

Yesterday, I wrote about this dream team, having fun with their collaboration in United Colors of Wine – “G-Ray”, and their very varied backgrounds so for that please go to https://worldbyglass.com/a-little-natural-fun-experimentation/ bc I wrote whole lot that got edited to death on IG. I love that Luci is a big blend of native grapes (red and white) from the area. In a way they’re taking a chance but on the other hand they are so knowledgable and have a groove with the grapes they have it under control. It’s kind of freestyle meets punk, yet with a classically trained hand. Yeah, this is definitely a wine that sings and makes it’s presence and emotion known. There are so many songs that flit through my head to this wine, but there’s two that stand out and show how Luci grows over time. Both are Nick Cave, and It starts as Grinderman – “Bellringer Blues” and in the end is Nick Cave and Warren Ellis – “Push the Sky Away”. Such a beautiful wondrous wine.

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A Little Natural Fun Experimentation

United Colors of Wine
G-Ray
Pinot Grigio Ramato 2019
100% Pinot Grigio
Vicenza, Veneto, Italy
Chemical free, organic but not certified, old school Pergola training, 10 day skin contact, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Unscrew that cap and it’s a glass of Blood Orange rose. BTW this is another of those bottles you need to fully read the label because it tells you not to serve too cold and let it breathe a while. Trust me, do it. As it breathes more scents start emerging. There’s orange, a dozen roses mixed with tiny white flowers, and oddly it stirs a happy memory of rock candy. Also a splash of spice like coriander and Turkish oregano. Oh I’m really looking forward to the tasting. Here comes tangerine, orange, there’s some good funk happening, a lick of granite, and now more fruit! It’s cherryplumilicious, orange jolly rancher, it’s both luscious and dry and is a fun light tangy party in my mouth. Yep, I said it and own it…in my mouth.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: beautiful. Tames everything into an elegant sip.

I feel overwhelmed and in awe of the amount of info I’m reading about both Andrea and Billy. Wow, two passionate, serious yet fun loving, and natural winemakers brought together to collaborate through Andrea’s “United Colors of Wine”. Where to even start…I guess Andrea, he seems to be one of those non stop energetic wine lovers that went down the path to be a winemaker. Also he dreamed up “Vinessum” an artisan wine fair which led to his collaboration with “Blu Nautilus” and then also the “Back to the Wine” fair, and prior worked as a blogger where he came up with the term #nogomma which denotes refusing any industrial intervention in the vineyard or cellar (so it’s all about keeping it natural). When does this man rest? And now here’s Billy melding into this dream team. He started small when he was still in the restaurant business. Found a little bit of land that needed a LOT of love, and worked hard at making this chemical free. His “Vigne del Pellagroso” name also came from nearby where a long gone newspaper. Il Pellagroso was only around from 1884 to March of 1885, when it was shut down due to their director being arrested for being on the side of human rights, justice and proper working conditions which stirred up local farmers to strike. Needless to say the  govt. wasn’t happy. It’s a fitting name for Billy’s wine since he’s so dedicated to biodynamic, organic and bucking the norm. He’s expanded over time, still kept it green and natural and with the 2020 harvest he is certified! Now these two buds get to play/experiment (well work) in Billy’s cellar and come up with beautiful, natural, and very delicious wines.

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A Town in an Organic Bottle

Celler Batea
Sense 2019
100% Garnatxa Negre
Batea, Terra Alta, Spain
Organic, vegan, unfined, unfiltered, and native yeasts
Winemaker: Judith Folch

A glass of deep cheerful ruby. First sniff and there’s cherries and plums. Next is cinnamon/cloves and as it warms some honeysuckles, magnolias but delicately hiding in the background, and vanilla. It’s dreamy! Oh here’s juicy cherries, plums, raspberries and blueberries just dancing on my tongue along with a hint of super dark chocolate. There’s also a bit of anise. Wrap me in velvet. As much as I’d like to say a Snuggie, this is more refined and deserves a royal robe, some slippers, and a roaring fireplace.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Doesn’t change except makes all deeper

I got quite a surprise when I started looking into Celler Batea. It wasn’t a family run winery, but a co-op and a town that has a long history. This tale goes back as far as the Phoenicians and their trade route, but truly was sparked later in the 1950s. Wine was becoming more and more important financially, so winemakers/farmers bonded together…101 of them! I can only imagine how at first it must of been like herding cats. Eventually they got Celler Batea, up and running while still tending their own vines, and by 1961 were rewarded with their first vintage. Now there are 208 in the bunch and 250 hectares, and all of them take great care to keep it organic. That must be such hard work but shows such a pride and love of Terra Alta and its produce. Celler Batea has continued to listen to voices of change and in 2019 had their first wines with no added sulfites, in their Sense Blanca and Garnatxa Negre. And as I can attest, the Negre rocked my world, but you don’t have to take my word, they ended up with two gold medals: Gilbert & Gaillard, 2019 and Catalan Wine and Cava Contest, Girovi 2020, and I won’t be surprised if there are more to come.

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Abracadabra!

Quartomoro
Z
Frizzante sui Lieviti
100% Vermentino
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, guyot training, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Hazy golden bubbly with pretty sediment just waiting for you at the base. Pop that cap and come on lemon! You know those light layered wafer cookies that has lemon cream between each layer. Also some tangerine and dainty white flowers. Lift and swig and more lemon on my tongue with a tad of grapefruit, apple, pinch of salt, and a savory mix of spices: sage, thyme rosemary, and a toasty cinnamon thing. It’s crispy and bouncy, and I’m just realizing there’s reminders of Orangina. Fabulous sparkler and IPA lovers would have fun with it too. Best of both worlds

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: no complaints here

Quartomoro has been creating this beauty since 2012. Almost feels like an ancient science experiment, but then so do most wines when you really think about it. From what I read, they take last year’s non bubbly Vermentino (on the lees) and re-ferment the dry base in the bottle and then add the next year’s freshly crushed juice, skin, seed mixture (the must) and the ancestral method works it’s magic. Abracadabra! You have this unfined, unfiltered and non vintage bottle. I’m guessing, I’m drinking a mix of 2018 and 2019, due to the harvests being in September, but feel free to let me know if I’m wrong. It’s nice to think I’m sipping something from before all this 2020 mess. Here’s again to 2021! Raise that glass of frizzante and welcome this New Year in with a big smooch!

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Oh, You Lovely Old Indigenous Grape You

Quartomoro
Òrriu di Sardegna 2018
sulle bucce
100% Vernaccia di Oristano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Beautiful gold like the the ring I’d like on my finger. Sniffing mandarin orange, lemon zest, lilac, salt, and also hints of grapefruit and honeysuckle blossoms. Tasting lots of citrus, some darkness of deep melon, honey, vanilla, flowers and of course almond. This is a beautiful rich gift wrapped up in a bow with a cork on top.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: NOPE! Makes it bitter

Oh, you lovely old indigenous grape you, Vernaccia di Oristano. I swear Sardinia produces some of the most beautiful grapes. Why the heck haven’t I visited there yet? Just you wait, once this pandemic is under control, my bags are packed. So, I’m reading there’s a tale that if you drink a good bit of Vernaccia, it will ward off malaria. Definitely curious to see who came up with that, how tipsy they were, and how much of it is true, because hey you never know. As I wrote in my post “Genie in a Bottle” on the rare grape Granazza (Granatza), some people mistake that grape for Vernaccia di Oristano. There are similarities, but each is an entirely different beast. Also Piero Cella and Luciana Baso’s creation is of a more modern style Vernaccia and lighter than the old more traditional oxidized and sherry-like styles. They let that grape sing! It’s rich, fresh, and full of life! Cheers!

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Harmonic Symphony

Quartomoro
Òrriu Cannonau di Sardegna 2018
100% Cannonau
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Vibrant ruby glory! When the cork came out it was a cloud of vanilla, dark depth, flowers, forest and cherries of course. Sweet yet tangy fragrance makes me think of ponzu sauce.  Dark and rich flavors of plum, cherries, blueberries, dried figs, and a pinch of Sumac.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Plum turns to sweet prune. Just smooth

A little bird sat on my shoulder and whispered, “Rumor has it that this is the best Cannonau right now!” My feathered friend is definitely onto something. Even though this is a young vineyard (located in the Marrubiu vineyard) the pulverized volacnic/granite enrichment of the soil brings out the best of these grapes. As Piero Cella says, “Our goal is always to make a harmonic symphony from the grapes and to put that into our bottles, at the same time with the real essence of our island.” Harmonic symphony is a very lovely way to put it. It’s as graceful and rich as their wine…and guess what? I have two more of their bottles in the mix to try in the near future. It’s going to be a fun week!

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A Welcome Teardrop

Tenuta San Marcello
Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC 2018
“Bastaro”
100% Lacrima
Marche, San Marcello, Ancona, Italy
Organic, sustainable, and indigenous yeasts

Winemaker: Massimo Palmieri

Deep ruby luscious purple. Breathing in roses, cherry and also cherry cola, plums, and magnolias. Those heady flowers are dancing on my tongue along with tart cherry, earth, raisins, blackberries, and an orange twinge which makes my brain wander back to those chocolate holiday oranges that pop into wedges. This is a perfect holiday wine. Can go with turkey, chicken, ham, or just about anything. Just make sure there is some stuffing with sage. Oh and remember to invite me too!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: It’s nice and even more smooth

Massimo and Pascale Palmieri opted to depart from Milan in search of a more country, natural life. Finding just the right farm house, they developed a sustainable farm and vineyard. Massimo did have a lot of studying to do, and reached out to a specialist in soil and crops and also an oenologist. Trial, error and reflection on his grandfather’s love of making wine for family and friends, spurred him on to his beautiful bottles filled with heart and emotion. If you want to connect with this slice of land and history, the Palmieri family also have an “Adopt a Vineyard” program. It varies on size and years, but there are great benefits that come back to you. One of those is a discount for a stay in their Farmhouse, and I see a swimming pool!

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Forever Learning and Always the Artist

Artisan Wines – DI Franz Schneider
Zweigelt Neusiedlersee
DAC Reserve 2015
100% Zweigelt
Halbturn, Burgenland, Austria
Sustainable farming
Winemaker & owner: Franz Schneider

Velvet dark deep ruby. Breathing in oak, plum, deep cherry, berries, and candy cola. First sip and cherry combined with dark goth plum. It’s sweet but not overly. There’s also some woodiness and coffee, with of all things juniper berries thrown in to the mix.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: juicy and less wood

Franz Schneider, his wife Ulrike Schmied, and their adorable twins make up this picture perfect wine family. At an early age, the twins are even getting their taste of the business and learning the grapes through homegrown fresh grape juice. Zweigelt Neusiedlersee DAC Reserve is made from their oldest Zweigelt, planted back in 1972, and Franz selects only the best of the harvest. From what I’m reading it sounds like he is constantly learning and adapting with each vintage and thus the name “Artisan” suits well. Whatever knowledge he keeps gleaning, it’s working in this beautifully refined bottle. Also a side note, there’s recipes on the site that you might like to pair with their wines. Just click on the pics to get the full instructions for a wonderful meal. The pumpkin risotto looks perfect for this time of the year.

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