A Day Under the Trees

Cantina Marilina
‘Fedelie’ Bianco Frizzante NV
Ancestral Method
Terre Siciliane IGP
Noto, Sicily, Italy
100% Moscato
Organic, indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration
Winemakers: Marilina, Federica and Angelo Paternò

Orange gold with tiny natural bubbles. Starts with tiny toasty scents but ditches out and turns into orange soda (not Orangina), citrus peel, lemon, and that candy called something like ginger chews. Mmmm sipping orange fizz, honeysuckle, and pear cider-esque, with a dash of salt, tingly bubbles and a hint at the finish bitter. Fabulous pét-nat.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: pairs deliciously well and brings out the pear cider

This is my second wine by Cantina Marilina, and I’m just as impressed as the first (Sikelé 2017). This time though, I’m taking more time to look into the family behind the vines. Angelo Paternò worked for many years in the wine industry until he settled in Noto (a very sunny and windy area) and built his own cellar and vineyard. Working alongside him were also his daughters Marilina and Federica Paternò. As you can see from this sweet video on their site, the next generation is already pitching in too. They’re also very into keeping everything organic and natural. Keeping the fruit trees within the vineyard, using recycled paper for their labels, recyclable glass bottles, and real corks. Staying sustainable, the old fashioned way. Would love to one day visit and sit under their olive trees. You can relax with either their basket of a bottle of wine, pane cunzato, some of their jam, cheese and a Sicilian salad; or you can opt for a tasting of 4 wines, homemade bread and their olive oil, cheeses and salami, their homemade jams, Sicilian salad and scacce. Absolutely mouthwatering delicious!

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A Delicate Harmony

Ampeleia
Unlitro 2019
Toscana Rosso IGT
Roccatederighi, Maremma, Toscana, Italy
40% Alicante Nero (aka Grenache), 25% Mourvedre, 15% Carignano, 15% Sangiovese, 5% Alicante Bouschet
Biodynamic, unfined, and unfiltered
Founders: Elisabetta Foradori, and her friends Giovanni Podini and Thomas Widmann
Winemaker: Marco Tait

Bright ruby garnet. As expected cherry is the first thing that hits your nose. Next is smoke, plum, salt some tiny flowers with a kick of funk. As it opens throw in a dash of spice and singed orange peel. When it hits your tongue you already know first thing is again cherry. Again smoke and some bio funk is still lingering. After letting it settle a bit there’s tangy fruit and definitely orange. It’s a natural light red, that you’re happy it comes in a liter format, because you’re going to want more than one glass. My second visit with this bottle, ok I chilled it. Don’t be insulted. It’s bleeping hot. It’s much the same but a little more body. I love it and it’s still  an easy picnic or pizza wine, but just elevated. Less tang and more velvet

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Tangy and smoky

You might remember the incredible winemaker Elisabetta Foradori, from a previous post about her family’s winery Agricola Foradori and her devotion to natural/biodynamic wine. She and her friends Giovanni Podini and Thomas Widmann, started Ampeleia back in 2002. From what I am reading on their site, Thomas Widmann left them in 2009, and there is a “it takes a village” style team that help with all the aspects of how a winery runs. Also not to be left out is Marco Tait who has been their winemaker from day one. He has a beautiful section on their site I just discovered. It’s a personal blog of sorts with musings on the passion and hardwork put into this biodynamic winery, the vineyards, learning to listen to the earth, trust the grapes, and more. At the end of one of the entries, this Goethe quote sums it all up: “It is so pleasant to explore nature and ourselves at the same time, without causing violence neither to Nature nor to our spirit, bringing us both, together, to a balance, to a delicate harmony”.

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Here Kitty, Kitty

Vinos Ambiz
La Gatta Mormigliana 2016
100% Tempranillo
El Tiemblo, Ávila, Sierra de Gredos, Spain
Winemaker: Fabio Bartolomei
Organic (just not certified, you’ll see why below)

This is the deepest dark goth purple which fits the label. Starts out with dark funk and grass scents. Very quickly that all turns into deep cherry, dark plum, oddly coriander that become cloves, and then licorice. This wine keeps evolving like crazy. First sip is deep sweet cherry, raisin, prune and plum. Something toasty emerges. There’s a touch of bitter bit at end, like pecan hulls that get left in after you shell them and think it’s all just meat. Here it goes changing again and it’s all fruit. I had been cautioned about this wine because I was told it might be too funky for me. Nope! It has funk but not to the extent I been told. In the end it is smooth and romantic. Not what you would expect from a giant monster cat nightmare.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: super sweet fruit with just a hint of the funk

Fabio Bartolomei is the outsider artist of wine. He has no training in winemaking, and during his start he worked out of garages, stables, etc. If La Gatta Mormigliana is any example of the rest of his wines, he’s freaking brilliant. The name comes from a story his father recounted to him of a fearsome cat with iron teeth and steel whiskers, that would say “Chi vien giù lo mangio” (If you come in, I’ll eat you…). If anyone knows where to find more on this tale, please do reach out to me. Sounds like a good scare. Fabio is also very adamant about making natural and organic wine, but bucks the certification. Here it is in his own words, “I refuse to certify because I believe that the polluters should pay for the damage they are doing to the environment, not the clean farmers”. Because of this, the bottle has a back label with a lengthy list of what it doesn’t contain, what processes it went through and what he didn’t do to it.

Would also like to give credit to the two label artists: Francesco de Aguilar and José Perico. That is one scary cat!

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Heavenly Honey (and Peaches)

Weingut Clüsserath-Weiler
Trittenheimer Altärchen Riesling Kabinett 2009
100% Riesling
Trittenheim Mosel, Germany
Winemaker: Verena Clüsserath

Spun gold glassful. Inhaling flowers, fresh apricots and just picked peaches, a touch of grapefruit and then at last mineral. The peaches are really here in the first sip. Reminds me of the ones from back home, we’d pick for mom to make cobbler. Next is honey and melons, again the slightest touch of grapefruit dryness and mineral. Makes me think of something the gods would have drunk out of a goblet while one of us mortals were feeding them cheese and grapes. Kind of makes me feel a little decadent but stops before it gets too heady (thank goodness). It’s a delicious ethereal beauty.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Less honey and more peaches

Here’s another ethereal beauty to enjoy: Mazzy Star – Fade Into You (Live)

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All Hail the Queen

Forlorn Hope
Queen of the Sierra 2017
White blend
Verdelho, muscat, and chardonnay (mostly, but there may be some others thrown in too)
Calaveras County, CA, USA
Organic, hand-harvested, spontaneous fermentation, native yeasts, unfiltered and unfined
Winemaker: Matthew Rorick

Crystal shining light yellow. Wafting in citrus, melon, something a little musky, slate/mineral, and light grapefruit. Tilting the glass back and tasting honeydew, muskmelon, and citrus. Nice acid and there’s that mineral again…you can taste the limestone from the land. It’s a feisty and fun wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sharpens the wine and tones back sweet

I was really surprised when I looked up their site. Love the rockstar font and really love what I’m finding out about the winemaker Matthew Rorick. What a man of all trades and accomplished at all! At first glance you see this tatted, white-beard and mustached rocker dude. Then you read about his past and whoa, he repaired submarine telescopes for the U.S. Navy, ridden skateboards for a living, and built electric guitars. That is really cool. Also cool is that Forlorn Hope pulls for the outsiders and longshots. That’s something near and dear to my heart. Ok, have I had too much of this lively wine, because I’m tearing up right now. All hail the little guy that survives and thrives in any circumstance. Definitely pleased to meet you, Forlorn Hope!

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A Glass and a Dance

Malaparte Vinos
Dindi Blanco 2019 (I think)
Cuéllar, Segovia, Spain
Albillo Mayor (mainly), Jerez, Huerta del Rey, and Verdejo
Natural farming, no pesticides or herbicides, indigenous yeasts and spontaneous fermentation
Winemaking family: Mariano de Frutos (dad), Elisa de Frutos (daughter), Ruben Salamanca (son-in-law)

Color pale golden yellow. Looks refreshing! Smelling a blend of citrus, melon, some vanilla sweetness, then salty smoky, and something greenish like grass. Sipping cantaloupe and honeydew, a twinge of apple, tangy orange, and lemon tart (with a not so sweet yet toasty vanilla savory crust just lingering in the back). As it opens more, it’s sultry but still has a mineral granite lick. Medium body with an acidic finish. In other words, the best of both worlds

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more melon, more fragrance

Reading up on how Malaparte Vinos, grew from a dream of Mariano de Frutos. Back in 1996, (wow when I typed this, I was thinking that’s not that long ago, but in reality, yes it is…time flies.) he started planting only Tempranillo in a small 3.5 hectare vineyard, but over the years it has branched out to a variety of grapes such as mentioned above in the wine notes. Very glad his dream has been realized and shared with his daughter Elisa de Frutos and her husband Ruben Salamanca.

Mariano’s dream started and is still in Cuéllar, so off we go to check out the town. If you happen to arrive the last Sunday of August, better keep watch of what’s happening around you. Early each morning (the Festival of Nuestra Señora del Rosario lasts 5 days) the bulls are released to do the infamous run through the streets. I think I’ll stick to just visiting the Dukes of Alburquerque castle. Awe inspiring gothic and renaissance architecture are blended in this incredible structure. Quite a fortress, that became abandoned after the dukes left the neighborhood. Much later in 1938, it became used as a prison and later a sanatorium for TB infected prisoners. What a change from being an exalted lap of luxury. As of now though, it has become a vocational school. Can you imagine going to school in a castle! Oh wait, that makes me think of Hogswart. That could be magical.

Let’s check out one more place in the nearby town of Iscar, the Museo Mariemma. Guillermina Teodosia Martínez Cabrejas, otherwise known as Mariemma, was one of Spain’s most important and influential dancers and choreographers. Born in Iscar, but due to her father wanting to make a better future for his family, they packed up and moved to Paris. From what I’m discovering about her past, she often danced in the street and was discovered for her talent at the age of 9, and then sent to study with a professional. By the age of 12, she was already performing as a soloist at the Olympia Theater. She passed on her love of dance, knowledge and creativity by teaching at Real Conservatorio de Arte Dramático y Danza de Madrid, and forming her own school: Mariemma Ballet de España. If you want to learn more about Mariemma, check out Daniel G. Cabrero’s documentary, “My Paths Through Dance”. Now I have another museum to check off my visit list whenever I get to travel again.

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Not Your Parents Soave

Nardello
Robian
Garganega 2019
100% Garganega
Soave Classico DOC
Veneto Region
Monteforte d’Alpone, Verona, Italy
Sustainable farming, spontaneous yeasts, no sulfites added (and any there are naturally occurring)

Winemaker: Daniele Nardello

It’s a cloudy deep orange golden…kind of like Tang. You remember… the astronaut beverage. First off scent of oranges, salt, pretty little flowers, and a little natural funk. Slightly sizzling sip of tangy sassy orange, peachiness, dried apricots, a little hay, and something soft candy feel, like maybe those classic old circus peanuts. There’s also mineral and as it warms up it becomes richer.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Hmmm more of the sizzle feeling. More funk. Darker orange

Years ago (in the US) Soave wines got a bad rap due to mass produced ones you could pick up anywhere. I remember in childhood the old tv commercials hawking the bottles. The wines of Soave Classico DOC kick that antiquated ideal to the curb. The volcanic soil in Monteforte d’Alpone, really enhance the two vineyards and the wines of Nardello. Honestly, I’m not sure which of the two, Robian’s Garganega comes from. It actually could even be both. Either way this orange wine with it’s crunchy crystal sediment is a great summer drinker.

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Rustic Family Roots

Terra di Briganti
Nato Nudo
Aglianico 2017
Benevento IGT
Casalduni Campania Italy
Aglianico 100%
Organic, biodynamic, vegan, and indigenous yeasts
Winemakers: Toni and Romeo De Cicco

Dark garnet that I can’t see through. Breathing in dark cherry, prune, and an earthy spiciness. Whoa the first sip is darker than I was expecting. Someone please bring me a lamb chop or maybe even better a lamb sausage. Rustic cherry including the pit and tart ripe blackberries some velvet plum/prune. There’s also something herbal or maybe…no wait, it’s oil cured black olives that I used to eat like a madwoman in college. It’s that luscious old school bitter.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Less bitter and more fruit

Senza Solfiti Aggiunti are magical words to my ears. I love no added sulfites! This is my third Terra di Briganti wine and all three are greatly diverse yet consistent. Every one is well structured and true to their grape. You can feel the passion and care in the wines. I love this quote from their site: “It’s the proper equilibrium between tradition and innovation and the ideal synergy that is found amongst the Earth’s gifts and the art of wine. Because wines of quality aren’t the fruit of coincidence.” This family is devoted to the land, the grape and the nature that nurtures. Does my heart good to see them passing this knowledge down the generations. Check out these lovely pics of everyone pitching in working the vines and wine.

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One Glass is Never Enough

Cantina Marilina
Sikelé 2017
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Grecanico (darn fabulous ancient grape)
Sicily Italy
Organic, indigenous yeasts, no fining or filtration
Winemakers: Angelo, Marilina and Federica Paternò

Gorgeous glass of golden orange. First scents are orange, melon, sweet honeysuckle, and one of my faves sea breeze salt. Sipping while sitting in the sun and there’s orange, lemon, melon, pear, apple (now that’s a bowl of fruit), smoky salt, white pepper, a scattering of almonds, but the best part is the orange blossoms that keep wafting in and out.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out more heavenly flowers

So this is my first writing about a wine I’ve had outdoors in Phase Three. Admittedly it was so good…like you don’t want it to end good. Another day, I had more of it at home. Had to make sure how it pairs with Cheez-It’s. Having this wine in the Brooklyn “wild”, in the company of good people, conversation, and fabulous food was amazing. Grecanico Dorato is such a gorgeous aromatic and flavorful grape. Admittedly, this orange wine is just as wonderful at home, back in the confines of the “new normal” (oh how sick I am of this term). I do miss that lively and delicious evening, my friends, and feeling the sun on my face; but I will savor this wine and every second I had with the people I love. Can’t wait till my next excursion, and next “wine in the wild”.

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Good Vibrations

Bodegas y Viñedos Patagonia Valley
Rivus
km1012
Malbec 2018
Patagonia Argentina
Rio Negro
Organic and biodynamic
Winemakers: Augusto Ripoll and Guy Zarate

A glassful of deep purple. It’s yeasty toasty so let this youngster breathe. Give it some time and a hint of vanilla pops up but runs away. Deep really tart cherry, orange peel, cola, smidge of tobacco, and earthy pepper appear. First sip is alive and young in a good way. Tangy cherry that has my lips vibrating, and some pomegranate too. Flowers are hanging out but definitely cedar and some funky slightly bubble feeling that is just on the tongue. There’s still some seriously natural rustic hayness. This little guy should be finished off in the first day or two to keep it’s full essence.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: there’s still the crazy tingle feeling, but the cherry darkens

The tingling is reminding me of a lip plumper from the past. Maybe a glass of this can be the new beauty trick.

If you want a good read on Malbec, “The Vineyard at the End of the World: Maverick Winemakers and the Rebirth of Malbec” (by Ian Mount) is a great recounting of the history and dramas that played out over the years.

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