Beauty on a High Hill

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2019
Toscano Bianco IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
Chardonnay 70%, Trebbiano 30%
Organic, guyot, and hand harvested
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Pale shining gold. Scents pop out of cantaloupes, honeydew, a little smoky/peat but seriously delicate, Red Delicious apples and a faint whiff of their blossoms. Also smidge of salt and something mineral or the more I think of it if you have ever stripped a fresh apple branch, it’s that smell. Its green, clean, and grounding. First sip and there’s a small squeeze of lemon like one wedge hanging on the side of your glass, muskmelon, honeydew, peaches, Red and Golden delicious apples, and honey that tastes like it had a walnut aging in it for a while…Mmmm. A little oak warmth that turns to smoke with a lick of salt but nothing overpowering. I read someone mention harsh at the end, but there is nothing harsh unless you think a basic tiny lemon squeeze harsh. All I know is I want some west coast oysters with mignonette right now.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: a little more dark nightshade, some grass and a little more rich and round

Sea level means so much in cooking, baking, and farming. While 515 meters S.L.M. is not good for cooking grits (you seriously have to have the right sea level for southern certified grits), it is fabulous for these grapes. Robert Buly enlisted his cousin Giulio to help in the search for the perfect place for him to get back to his family’s “deep roots”, in 2006, Podere Collalto (farm on a high hill) came up for sale. What’s even better it was only 6 miles from his cousin’s place. It has it all…great sunlight. beautiful summer breeze, rugged good soil and plenty of room for a vineyard and olive trees. Check out the site for images from their enchanting little part of the world, it will brighten your day.

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With a Little Help From His Friends

A la Vôtre!
Hou la la!! 2019
VDF Rouge
Loire, France
100% Pinot Noir
Practicing organic
Winemaker: Laurent Lebled

Dark red tapestry color. My nose is loving these plums, blueberries, deep cherries, vanilla wafers, dried rich fruit, and a tiny hint of celery seed. Delicious tastes of dark tart cherry, faint hay, strawberries and strawberry Pop Tart, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, a smidge of orange peel and some woodsy earth. Super juicy! It’s also an elegant wine that you could dress up for or casually lounge around sipping in a comfy sweatshirt while hiding in a Zoom meeting.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: I’m not sure if it changes much but makes it more rich and makes me want more. Putting them away before I drink the whole bottle.

This is not the usual, story of a winery passed down through the generations. It’s a second act. Laurent Lebled worked in wood, not wine for over 30 years and well, life changed. Lost his job at the worst time, the 2008 recession. Well, he was lucky enough to have two great friends (Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau) that convinced him to change his life. Ok, so there is a tale of inheritance, Sébastien’s grandfather left him 2 hectares of vines, and he just knew this would be Laurent’s new destiny. Laurent learned from Sébastien through the 2009 vintage. 2010, Sébastien and Patrick helped and guided Laurent though the first “A la Vôtre!” Then it was time for the bird to leave the nest. Since then he has rented vines and cellars until 2019. He had the good fortune to buy 10 hectares of vines and a cellar. Funny how life works out. Just when everything seems dark, another door opens. You just have to trust and embrace it.

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Cock-A-Doodle-Doo!

Domaine la Grangette 
CocoriKo 2018
Côtes de Thau IGP
100% Piquepoul Noir
Sustainable/Lutte raisonnée agriculture and heading organic
Castelnau-de-Guers, Languedoc, France
Winemakers: Christelle & Mathieu Caron

Dark cherry with blue-purple highlights (takes me back to my Manic Panic days). Fragrant cherries, roses, strawberries but it reminds me of the smell of the ones they put on a sundae. Also salt and faint licorice. Sipping and it’s smooth baby… with tastes of cherry, cocoa, strawberries, blueberries, singed sage, and a little salty whisper.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more rich and dark

Have had many blanc bottles enjoyed in the summertime warmth of the sun, but this is my first 100% Piquepoul Noir which is one of the 13 grapes permitted in Châteauneuf du Pape. Wow, what a happy, fresh, juicy, and fun wine. And such a plump little chickie/rooster on the label whose call “Cocoriko” is this bottle’s namesake. Domaine la Grangette was passed down by Christelle’s parents in 2013, and they are doing something pretty special. They are the only Piquepoul vineyard working with all three colors, and I’m wishing I had the white and rosé to try side by side. The Domaine has forests, trails, and wonderful soil as it was used for farming (grains and alfalfa) since the French Revolution, and even before that their had been ancient lakes and and sea coverage creating the terroir. Now with their use of lutte raisonnée agriculture, they replenish the land post harvest with plowing the cuttings and such back under and giving back to the earth. Kind of their version of the circle of life…yes, you can now thank me for having that song stuck in your head for the rest of the day. Cheers!

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Be a Rebel

Weingut Loacker
Santa Maddalena Classico Morit
Alto Adige DOC 2017
Vernatsch 87%, Lagrein 10%, Pinot Noir 3%
Bolzano, Italy
Organic, biodynamic, vegan, and native yeasts
Founded by Rainer Loacker and is now in the hands of his sons Franz Josef, Hayo, and Hannes

Bright cheery cherry ruby color. After pouring my nose is getting some butter at first but let that glass sit a little while and then don’t think of it again. Then comes the cherries, plums, pinch of pepper, sweet spring flowers, rosemary, and some creaminess with a faint sugar cookie with sprinkles. Wow, that was a lot and I’m wondering if the taste is heading the same way, and I’m not disappointed. There’s tart cherry brightness, bring on the funk that plum funk, strawberries, wild blueberries, black pepper, smoke, and as it rolls it’s velvet with a small orange zest kick One more thing to add, do not be an idiot like me. I was preoccupied and didn’t notice there is a glass stopper and wondered why my opener wasn’t going in. Feel free to laugh at me all you want.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth dark cherry mmmm

Rainer Loacker is yes, that Loacker from the wafer world. You remember those addictive little cookies? In 1979, Rainer saw himself as a rebel in the region, since he knew his winery had to be sustainable. The vines even get homeopathic treatment. Rainer’s vision, which at the time was very much not the norm, and as he says in the video (please click and hear his own words) people told him “Organic wine doesn’t interest us.” He was even called out of his mind. Well, look how much times have changed, and how right his decision was. From this bottle alone, I can attest his diligence has created this delicious, delightful wine. Also according to their site, Santa Maddalena Classico Morit 2017, is not only sustainable, but also organic and vegan. By the way, there are two more vineyards in their hands, and they all hold to the same standards. Do it natural, respect those beautiful lands and you have a recipe for success!

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Hand Picked, Made by Heart

Tikveš
Rkaciteli Special Selection 2017
Tikves Region
100% Rkaciteli
Tikves, Macedonia
Sustainable farming, double guyot, and hand harvested
Winemaker/Chief Wine Consultant: Philippe Cambie
Head Winemaker: Marko Stojakovic

Starlight super pale purity gold/yellow. Breathing in fresh peaches, musky mango, and pineapple. It’s a funky fruit cup. Take a sip and there’s again sweet pineapple, peaches, smoky mangos, and just a little speck of rock licking granite on the back of it all. I would love a big tray of sushi with this glass.

Pairs w Cheez-It’s: fruit, fruit, fruit, sweeeeeet

Tikveš, founded in 1885, is a winery that’s lived through a lot of history…wars, independence, and an end to communism. No matter what was thrown their way, wine continued on. In 2003, M6 Co. bought the massive winery and got down to business of only making quality wine no matter high or low price. They brought in experts (like Philippe Cambie), assessed, and took on transforming to sustainable farming, pairing the soils with just the right grapes, etc. All of this hard work has led to a long list of awards, including some for previous vintages of Rkaciteli Special Selection (which 2017 totally deserves one). As mentioned before this winery is a big undertaking, in fact it is the largest in South-Eastern Europe, which makes me appreciate Svetozar Janevski’s (Pres. of the Management Board) sentiment, From that moment to the present, I have been devoted to the idea that the colours of this country, its people, its landscape, music and aromas, should all be reflected and communicated in our Macedonian product. All that our painters and musicians have strived to capture in their art, we at Tikveš have attempted to capture in our wines.” He and their whole team have achieved this goal, and I look forward to traveling and tasting the essence of their lands in future bottles.

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Deep Roots

Buli
Le Fonde 2019
Toscano Rosato IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Organic and guyot training
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Radiant salmon color. First scents of very light orange cream with a tad lemon zest. Keep letting it breathe just little bit longer, trust me. You’ll be greeted by cranberries, dried apricots, touch of magnolias but not heady, and then there’s also strawberries and raspberries. Lift that glass, sip and enjoy lemon, pink grapefruit, and zingy orange which leads to apricot and a whole pile of fruits like watermelon, strawberries, and raspberries. Now there’s salt, smoke, and a lick of slate. Ok, you’re going to think I’m a weirdo, but something about this reminds me of an Orange Julius that isn’t super sweet. Maybe it’s just bringing back a memory which good wine and food always should do. For all you old mall rats and I was one of them before I got my job at the record shop, you will get this flavor (yes, this is a good thing with this wine). Some would call this a summer wine, but I think it is perfect for year round. I’m doing my third tasting on New Year’s Eve and it’s a welcome breath of fresh to 2021.

Pairs w Cheez-It’s: Delicious, it just brings out the fruit even more. Smooth.

My first Buli was their Estate 44 (2015) which was a big beautiful blend. La Fonde (2019), is a wonderful introduction for me to their varied styles. As you can tell from above, I love it. But there’s more to this tale. As in my first review, all of their wines are born from a film worthy WWII romance between a US soldier, an enchanting Italian lady, and a bottle of red wine. Robert Buly grew up in Pennsylvania, but his mother (the daughter of the mentioned couple) and brothers held on to their Italian heritage by speaking Italian at home and when they could travel back to Italy. All of their mother’s relatives were still back there, so what a better opportunity to fall for the food, wines and that way of life. Come on, who wouldn’t dream of such a great opportunity. This family is gifted to have these deep roots or in other words “Le Fonde”.

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A Thorny Situation

Thistle & Weed
Duwweltjie 2018
100% Chenin Blanc
W.O. Paarl
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Organic and unfiltered
Viticulturist: Etienne Terblance
Winemaker: Stephanie Wild

Shimmy shimmy shiny gold. My nose is filled with an early hint of vanilla, then citrus scents of lemon. persimmon, blood orange, and light grapefruit (ie IPA). There’s also super ripe cucumber, pine, and some salty (not sexy, wiggle that moustache) thyme. Kicking back apricot, melon, pears, honeysuckle, citrus tang of lemon and mandarin orange, white pepper, and a little wax yet no wane.

Pairs w Cheez-It’s: more smooth less tang

Etienne Terblance and Stephanie Wild both come from wine in their life. Young Etienne helped out in his parents’ seaside restaurant and then took off for school and received a Masters degree in Viticulture and Oenology from Montpellier SupAgro and a PhD in Viticulture from Stellenbosch University. Stephanie’s history is little different. Her grandfather was the well known Niel Joubert, founder of the Stellenbosch Wine Route. She also holds a Masters from Stellenbosch University in Viticulture and Oenology, and everywhere I google, I see her on lists for top South African women winemakers, and top winemakers in general. Often I write about power teams like this and they are married couples but in this case, they’re friends. Their combined knowledge, experience and expertise has led them to pick the perfect spots for their vineyards, like the one for this Chenin Blanc. Duwweltjie vineyard named (fondly or maybe not so fondly) after the plant that translates to Devil’s thorns, that can puncture anything from shoes to rubber tires, etc and generally be a real pain in the ass. Just check out the label. Well, that annoyance is worth it to get to these 65 or so year old vines. I’d gladly be willing to take a wander through these plants just to get a case of these beauts.

Sidenote: as I mentioned before they are not a couple but it warms my heart to see on the site that they give shout outs to their families. Etienne is a father to Elmie (human), Ben (canine) and husband to Lizanda. Stephanie is wife to Kannas, and mother to Frances (human) and Khalessi & Khumba (canines). Reading this put a smile on my face.

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No Oak and Lots of Passion

Aaron Rawlins
Asrllc L.2018-021 2018
100% Sev Areni
Aghavnadzor, Vayots Dzor, Armenia 
Organic, native yeasts, unfined, unfiltered
Winemaker: Aaron Sedrick Rawlins

Very deep dark dense garnet purple. Bring on the dried fruit scents of prunes, raisins, and then plums, vanilla, dark really goth dark cherry, pepper, and rich. Drinking in deep plums, prunes, raisins, and rich cherry velvet. Also (I’m going to use that word I hate again) sexy dark chocolate, cherry cola, and black pepper. There’s such a warmth and it’s lovely dry end on the tongue. It’s also extremely calm and comforting yet passionate at the same time. Wow, does this sound like the description of the perfect guy or what? Yeah, if this bottle proposed, I might just say yes.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: darker, deeper, more velvet; less dry

All I can say is what a wine. Aaron Rawlins made a great choice in life by picking Armenia and especially the Vayots Dzor region at 6500 ft elevation, volcanic soils  and 150 year old vines that had not been touched with phylloxera. Wow, just 18 and off to France to become a chef, and venture through Spain, UK, Copenhagen and to Georgia. Then to veer off into a dream of wine in Armenia. That’s one strong and dedicated to his palate guy. Oh, and may I add, he is letting the Areni tell it’s true story because there is NO oak. Love, love, love when the grape gets to let itself be it’s true self. Do yourself a favor and pick one of these up stat and drink now.

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Culinary Pampering

Štekar Wines
Sıvı Pinot 2019
100% Sivi Pinot (Pinot Gris)
Goriška Brda Z.G.P.
Kojsko, Littoral, Slovenia
Organic, biodynamic
Winemaker: Jure Štekar

Copper color like one of those beautiful old bowls Julia Child used to whisk away in. Wafts of orange, grapefruit, melon, and a little fresh grass. Lots of fruit dance on my tongue. There’s an orange melon of some sort, pear but crisp and almost not fully ripe, and as it opens peaches come forward with smoke, Also a bitter herb that I am having trouble pinpointing. This beautiful glass just feels creamy and mellow. Lovely.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: turns the bitter herb into rosemary

Štekar Wines is fairly young but they are one of the first wineries in Slovenia certified biodynamic. Along with the vineyard, they also have a farm, the main house with rooms to stay over and a whole agrotourism package. You can stay, view the beautiful countryside, taste their wines, join them in the kitchen to learn their recipes, and get as they call it, “Culinary Pampering”. The pics of their dishes look absolutely amazing and creative. Oh, please scroll down and look at those cakes! They look heavenly, and I feel pounds adding to my thighs just looking at them. Most of the ingredients from vegetables, fruits, and meat are from the farm, or if they don’t have it they reach out to organic producers. They sum up it all best, “Visit us and participate in the unforgettable experience of the wonderful Goriška Brda hills and the magic of our climate.” Oh, I so wish I could be there. We could all need a little magic right now!

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Let the Vineyard Speak

Heaps Good Wine Co.
Offshoot 2019
100% Modra Frankinja (Blaufränkisch)
Rosé Pet Nat
Ritoznoj, Pohorje Foothills, Lower Styria (Štajerska), Slovenia
Methode Ancestrale, minimal intervention, dry farming, sustainable
Winemakers: Marija and Nick Gee

Watermelon juice with tiny white bubbles bouncing. Oooh this is filling the air with ripe strawberries, raspberries, a pinch of salt, a little bread coming fresh out of the oven (but not sourdough. I don’t want to see sourdough ever again). Wow, what a zingy punch at first swig! Again there’s strawberries, raspberries, Royal Ann cherries, lemon spritz, a light puff of smoke. It’s tart, fresh and creamy all at the same time.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes that lemon spritz pop

Nick and Marija Gee have been at this since 2010, and from Nick’s blog, he looks like he has no problems getting his hands and feet dirty. Their wine guidelines are more about what you don’t do. Let nature take it’s course. Like when they got hit with a hailstorm, they rolled with it and just picked the damaged grapes (Sivi and Modri Pinot) to use for sparkling base and let the ones that survived keep on growing. As they say “let the vineyard speak”. Well, it’s doing more than just speaking in this Rosé Pet Nat, it’s outright singing. I wouldn’t say a classical tune but more like björk’s “triumph of a heart”. I had forgotten how much I love that song, and this shiny glass brought it all back.

Oh, also if you want to check out some more work by the New Zealander label artist, Jacob Sparrow, give his site a click. Pretty cool, out there and trippy art!

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