Not Always “Good To Be The King”

Cantina Gallura
Canayli 2023
Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG
Sustainable
Tempio Pausania, Gallura, Sardinia, Italy

Yellow-strawish that heads more to the golden side after time. Breathing in pears, honeydew with a sliver of cantaloupe, smidge of mango & pineapple that grows, musk melon, and a small sprig of hay. Sipping away and most of the scents are right there but ramped up with green apples (fresh & baked), honeysuckle, a little lychee, garden fresh over ripe cucumber, lime squeeze but not super forward,  bell pepper that in the back has a small heat, the way a fried green tomato tastes without the breading or oil…just the essence of it which might also give a bit of almond like bite at the very back. Just freaking delicious!

Pairs with Cheez-Its: brings out a citrus burst

Cantina Gallura’s co-op was founded in 1956, and has over 100 winegrowers that deeply respect their land, their native grapes, traditions & history. Note the rooster on their bottles representing their regions’ namesake (Gallura is derived from Gallus = cock {get your head out of the gutter, you know it’s the fowl). “Canayli” led me to read more on their town Tempio Pausania aka “City of Stone”. Known for their granite, cork (they have a cork machinery museum too), and wine; but what caught my eye was their Carnival “Carrasciali Tempiesu” which is happening now through March 4. It’s a colorful celebration with floats, costumes, masks, dancing, music, and a good ol’ party down time. There’s also the tale of King Giorgio. At first he’s revered & celebrated, marries a commoner (Mannena), and this good cheer continues until Mardi Gras where he is judged for everything that has gone wrong/evil in the town, and his effigy is burned in the town square. Guess it’s not always “Good To Be The King”. 👑

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“Women’s Dreams”

Benazzoli
Dafne 2022
Bardolino DOC
Corvina & Rondinella
Lake Garda
Pastrengo VR, Italy
Claudia and Giulia Benazzoli (sisters)

Ruby stained glass with purple pops. Breathing in cherries, plums, light roses, a scent that reminds me of my childhood back patio where mom had the hanging baskets of plants (warm sweet & savory with a little earth), raspberries & fresh picked strawberries, a pinch black pepper, and over time there’s a caramelized balsamic reduction. All of the scents are in the sip with more strawberry, raspberry, but now with boysenberry blended in, red currants, lemon/Lime zest zing, and more of a pepper grind. It’s so fresh, light on its feet but can hold their own in a dance off.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: blerg

The latest & 4th gen of Benazzoli winemakers, Claudia & Giulia are proud of their heritage, land, hard work, and wine; and they let you know straight off it’s “Made By Women”. You’ll even find that branded on their corks. This bottle of Dafne is from their line “Sogni di donna”. They worked with Stefano Torregrossa (designer) & Luca Quagliotti (illustrator & tattoo artist) to put their voice & personalities on these labels. “They are imaginary women we call by name, each with its own character, its style, its exquisitely personal taste: Tecla, Agata, Dafne, Giava, Minerva. Each of them tells different aspects of Benazzoli women and their wines.” Each one sports an inner & outer beauty, depth of knowledge, strength, love, their own unique style, and makes me want to get to know each and every one. 🍷

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Alchemy In A Bottle

Castello di Roncade
Prosecco Brut
Glera
Treviso DOC
Roncade, Veneto, Italy
Vincenzo Ciani Bassetti

The palest yellow possible with tiny lively bubbles. Up float delicate scents of apples fresh & dried, pear, a touch of toasted baguette, gooseberries, and a teeny lemon w zest. After a few sips, all of the scents are there and very crisp with a dry spark, a sprig of parsley & another herbal pinch I can’t place along with more of a blend of citrus zest…kind of reminds me a little of Kas.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Surprisingly delicious

Roncade Castle is filled with such a long history that includes nobility, wars, rebuilding & repairing, artistic endeavors, and Baroni Ciani Bassetti who heralded in renovations, vineyard replanting, and their wine business. This villa is also “the only pre-Palladian villa surrounded by medieval walls topped by majestic battlements” and you can stay in the castle or even better…stay in the towers (romantic!). While there take one of the guided tours. The one that jumps out to me is on their winemaking process or as they describe it “perfect blend of ancient practices and modern innovation“ & “alchemy reveals itself in every bottle, demonstrating how our quest for quality continues to evolve while keeping its roots alive.” Now that’s my kind of bottled magic with no genie needed.

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Forever Strong

Azienda Agricola Fabiana
Negroamaro Salento IGP 2020
Total respect for their ecosystem, hand harvested, keeping it local
Faggiano, Salento, Puglia, Italy
Fabiana Baruzzi & mom

Shining ruby with a touch of garnet glints. Scents build over time of black cherries & skins, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries (maybe dried), hint of oak & touch cigar that expands to dark plums over time, little run through the bramble, with a touch of oil cured olive pits, a teeny bouquet of spring flowers & their leaves…and something that reminds me of repotting hanging plants under the warmth of the sun. Going in for the taste and there’s dark cherries & skins, red plums, and now trying again on day two there’s a depth that is wow with fresh & dried raspberry & strawberry, blackberry, little fennel/anise (maybe toasted), blueberries, orange zest, earth grows as we ride along, wild bramble with a bit of tobacco. This wine is romantic in a way you don’t want it to end and want to be selfish with it…well I definitely do.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: juicy bouncy & smooth

This bottle was a surprise shared on my birthday & then another gifted as a present later. Yes, that’s the same day I was & still going through dental insanity & couldn’t do any chewing but hey I could/can still drink wine. This jazzy little bottle pulled me right out of my doldrums because it truly is a wine of celebration of all things local to the Azienda which is important to this family. As I’ve been learning about who they are I’m finding a story of resilience & strength. In one year Fabiana’s father passed from cancer & her brother had to take over the winery while she utilized her business skills marketing the wines, then the unthinkable happened…her brother Michele unfortunately died in a car accident. To be punched emotionally twice in one year is so heartbreaking, but she was determined to keep her father’s memory alive with assistance from her mom. There have been attempts to buy & sabotage their land, crops, steal their grapes, etc, but she is not backing down. Fabiana, you are my inspiration…you are one strong woman & winemaker. Raising a glass to you, your family, and your magical wines. 🍷❤️

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“It Is Simply Cultural”

Azienda Biologica Bio Vio
U Bastio 2021
Rossese 100%
Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC
Organic
Bastia d’Albenga, Liguria, Italy
Aimone Giobatta Vio & family (Mom: Chiara; Daughters: Caterina, Camilla, Carolina)

Ruby stained glass. Breathing in bouncing raspstrawblueberries (and maybe a few others in the mix), twist of cherry, lemon & orange zest, and a pinch of light earth & cool slate. All I’ve been sniffing are there in the sip that wakes up my mouth & puts a smile on my face. There’s also blackberries (seeds & all), a little chew of wild sour grass from childhood that has kind of a rhubarb vibe too, light earth turns into a savory & pinch of peppery pixie dust including that slate, a tangle of wild herbs that you really don’t need to think about unless you want to dissect like me (marjoram, oregano, and savory) and orange zest

Pairs with Cheez-Its: I think I like it…still making up my mind…but you know what it pairs lovely with Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam

Bio Bio is so much more than just a winery. It’s about family, respect, traditions, the Ligurian way of life, and more. As they say, “Growing organically is neither a technical nor an economic choice: it is simply cultural .” For generations they’ve farmed carciofo spinoso di Albenga, herbs, Taggiasca olives, Brussel sprouts, other leafy vegs, and of course native grapes; and you can experience it all in person by booking a stay at one of their Pigato Biovio Farmhouse apartments. From there you can investigate all they & Albenga have to offer. Later join them in their OrtOsteria René where you’ll find local & home grown seasonal delights (BTW Orto = home vegetable garden) created by Chef Carolina (youngest of the 3 daughters) who interprets recipes passed down from her mom, nonna e nonno. Check out their IG (tagged in pic) and it will have you checking your calendar & booking a reservation as fast as you can. I’m already dreaming of their Farfalle di castagna, funghi porcini, rape dell’orto and another glass of wine. 🍄‍🟫🌰❤️🍷

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This Is Not My Grandfather’s Wine

Terra di Seta
480 slm 2018
Chianti Classico DOCG
Sangiovese 95%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%
Organic, Kosher, sustainable agriculture
Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Tuscany, Italy
Daniele Della Seta (husband) & Maria Pellegrini (wife)

Ruby stained glass. Scents float up of plums, prunes, dried & fresh cherries, raisins, smooth & expressive violets, a classic bit of leather book binding with a dash of tobacco that morphs into crunchy raspberries & smoke, and a dash of cloves, fennel, warm spice/pepper blend. All of the scents are in the taste along with dried figs, pomegranate, red currants, dark olives, fennel, and a modern light gentle dry dance that echos classical footsteps.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: a good bitter dried fruit richness

Must be wonderful to work side by side with the one you love, and also love your work. Maria’s from a winemaking family while Daniele’s background is in biology and from what I’ve found they both have their hands in every aspect of their organic farm, winery & wine tourism farmhouse “Le Macie” that looks like a place you would never want to leave (there’s an infinity pool & some of the apts have AC!). They also are “the only winery in Italy whose entire wine production, from its grapes – since 2008 – is supervised by strict Kosher certification”. Long ago when I was a kid, the only Kosher wine that my grandfather used to pick up to have with the holiday fruitcake was let’s say a certain Concord grape concoction that I bet many of you had the same reaction to it as I did 🤮. I can happily say “Terra di Seta” is definitely not my grandparents wine…it’s heavenly.

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Take Time To Smell The Roses Or Better Yet The Wine

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni
Felice Modica
Filinona 2020
Nero d’Avola
Eloro DOC
Noto (SR), Sicily, Italy
Modica family

Deep dark garnet. There’s scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, an Oreo cream center that eases off and fades, bell pepper, dates, dried figs, and as it opens a rich tapestry of them all with sage & rosemary woven in with the rest. Sipping away and again cherries & plums along with raspberries, blackberries, cranberry, pomegranate, a reminder of an apple tree twig I’ve whittled and chewed on as a kid, twinge of bell pepper, dark olives, and a little bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just lush

For over 200 years the Modica family has farmed their lands (300+ ha) and tended to their olive & almond trees, citrus fruit, and their vineyards. Their wine “Filinona” is a nod to the beauty of the Sicilian language (recognized as a minority language by UNESCO) and of their tradition of a “siesta” or a daily time to rest in the while the sun is at its hottest. Honestly, I would love if we had that tradition here where it’s so easy to get caught up in work and not take time to stop and smell the roses or better yet a time to relax with a little wine. Maybe that is reason the Modica family are so productive with their wine, olive oil, beer “Passo di miele”, and as I discovered their Palazzo Modica. What a breathtaking historical place which over time has adapted in size and use due to the needs or wishes of the generations. While there still is a section that is private residence, there is also a more public side with a restaurant/pizzeria, a museum, event space, and now you can book a room to sleep in a blend of modern & antique luxury and for some a terrace with beautiful views of Noto. I can hardly think of anything more romantic than relaxing there under the twinkling stars raising a glass to history.

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Family Expansions

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nerello Mascalese  
Terre Siciliane IGT
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Shiny garnet glass. Scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, pinch of vanilla that grows into dried figs & maybe dates too, touch of tomato leaves that turns into a smidge of drying tobacco leaves with a little smoke. Tasting again all sorts of cherries tart, tangy, fresh, dark & deep plums, young strawberries, raspberries, blackberries (seeds & all for that bite), and dried cranberries. It’s like a pinball bouncing around in the machine hitting flavors as it goes and it’s bright & fresh with a dryness on the back.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. You can do it like me from home on quite a few times now, or you can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. Come to think of it out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Ah man, decisions…decisions…what am I to do? Hop a plane or find a way to get one to fly to me. 🥂✈️

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Living in Harmony

Cascina Carlòt
Saròt
Arneis 2023
Langhe DOC
Sustainable, biodiverse
Coazzolo (AT) – Italy
Claudio Mo

Light spun straw. Breathing in lovely pears, green apples, a little Oreo center, touch of smoke, almond slivers, cantaloupe & honeydew, salty breeze and a tiny shake of pepper. Dancing on my tongue are melons of all sorts, pears, apples, starfruit, lemon/lime, papaya, a shake shake shake of salt with a savory mineral touch, and a lick of pineapple.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: fruity elegance

Even though Claudio Mo is a winemaker he prefers to go by winegrower, since he is “faithful to the – typically Piedmontese – philosophy that wine is made first of all in the vineyard and then in the cellar.” He also prefers to live in harmony with nature, to follow its rhythm, connect with all the cycles, and to live sustainably. This includes working toward a future of the farm eventually being energy self sufficient. What a beautiful gift to pass down to his family…or in other words as it greets you on his site, it is “Claudio’s dream come true”.

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“We Don’t Like Sloppy Wines”

Vanempo
Tramonto 2019
Rosso Toscana IGT
Sangiovese 60%, Canaiolo 30%, Malvasia Nero 10%
Biodynamic, organic, hand harvested & vegan
Montemurlo, Italy
Michele Sacchetti & Laura Fabbri

Follow the instructions on the label, remember to decant for at least 30 minutes, and you’ll have a deep ruby pour. Inhaling cherries, dark plums, maybe a little cinnamon, blackberries, a scent that reminds me of my other much earlier life of binding books & printmaking, and as it grows a raspblueberry blend. First taste and there’s tart/dark cherries & plums fresh & dried, Kalamata olives, blackberries with seeds & all, again over time that raspblueberry blend again, red currants, and a tad of white & black pepper…so very awake and alive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so smooth and rich

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post, the name “Vanempo” comes from a combo of two words, “Avanza and Tempo” which pretty much means “spare time”. Well, Michele & Laura originally started this wine adventure in their “extra time” as a passion project. As Michele says, “I’ve always believed in beautiful things, and beautiful things arise from a child’s dreams.” Those dreams sparked such a full fledged bio certified winery reality, filled with “hands off” wines that I’ve had the good fortune to encounter like their Maluna, Aura, and now Tramonto (Sunset). I think their mindset & devotion to their land & vines (instead of following certain rules that would clip their wings) help them soar in excellence because each one is so individually special & consistently delicious. As they’ve said, “We don’t like volatile acidity, we don’t like brett and we don’t like sloppy wines made just with the goal to catch some like on the social media. We like the terroir to speak for itself. We could have labeled our wines as Chianti but we have preferred to give up the DOCG as we don’t have any confidence in its moral integrity”.🍷

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