Take Time To Smell The Roses Or Better Yet The Wine

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni
Felice Modica
Filinona 2020
Nero d’Avola
Eloro DOC
Noto (SR), Sicily, Italy
Modica family

Deep dark garnet. There’s scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, an Oreo cream center that eases off and fades, bell pepper, dates, dried figs, and as it opens a rich tapestry of them all with sage & rosemary woven in with the rest. Sipping away and again cherries & plums along with raspberries, blackberries, cranberry, pomegranate, a reminder of an apple tree twig I’ve whittled and chewed on as a kid, twinge of bell pepper, dark olives, and a little bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just lush

For over 200 years the Modica family has farmed their lands (300+ ha) and tended to their olive & almond trees, citrus fruit, and their vineyards. Their wine “Filinona” is a nod to the beauty of the Sicilian language (recognized as a minority language by UNESCO) and of their tradition of a “siesta” or a daily time to rest in the while the sun is at its hottest. Honestly, I would love if we had that tradition here where it’s so easy to get caught up in work and not take time to stop and smell the roses or better yet a time to relax with a little wine. Maybe that is reason the Modica family are so productive with their wine, olive oil, beer “Passo di miele”, and as I discovered their Palazzo Modica. What a breathtaking historical place which over time has adapted in size and use due to the needs or wishes of the generations. While there still is a section that is private residence, there is also a more public side with a restaurant/pizzeria, a museum, event space, and now you can book a room to sleep in a blend of modern & antique luxury and for some a terrace with beautiful views of Noto. I can hardly think of anything more romantic than relaxing there under the twinkling stars raising a glass to history.

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Family Expansions

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nerello Mascalese  
Terre Siciliane IGT
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Shiny garnet glass. Scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, pinch of vanilla that grows into dried figs & maybe dates too, touch of tomato leaves that turns into a smidge of drying tobacco leaves with a little smoke. Tasting again all sorts of cherries tart, tangy, fresh, dark & deep plums, young strawberries, raspberries, blackberries (seeds & all for that bite), and dried cranberries. It’s like a pinball bouncing around in the machine hitting flavors as it goes and it’s bright & fresh with a dryness on the back.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. You can do it like me from home on quite a few times now, or you can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. Come to think of it out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Ah man, decisions…decisions…what am I to do? Hop a plane or find a way to get one to fly to me. 🥂✈️

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Living in Harmony

Cascina Carlòt
Saròt
Arneis 2023
Langhe DOC
Sustainable, biodiverse
Coazzolo (AT) – Italy
Claudio Mo

Light spun straw. Breathing in lovely pears, green apples, a little Oreo center, touch of smoke, almond slivers, cantaloupe & honeydew, salty breeze and a tiny shake of pepper. Dancing on my tongue are melons of all sorts, pears, apples, starfruit, lemon/lime, papaya, a shake shake shake of salt with a savory mineral touch, and a lick of pineapple.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: fruity elegance

Even though Claudio Mo is a winemaker he prefers to go by winegrower, since he is “faithful to the – typically Piedmontese – philosophy that wine is made first of all in the vineyard and then in the cellar.” He also prefers to live in harmony with nature, to follow its rhythm, connect with all the cycles, and to live sustainably. This includes working toward a future of the farm eventually being energy self sufficient. What a beautiful gift to pass down to his family…or in other words as it greets you on his site, it is “Claudio’s dream come true”.

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“We Don’t Like Sloppy Wines”

Vanempo
Tramonto 2019
Rosso Toscana IGT
Sangiovese 60%, Canaiolo 30%, Malvasia Nero 10%
Biodynamic, organic, hand harvested & vegan
Montemurlo, Italy
Michele Sacchetti & Laura Fabbri

Follow the instructions on the label, remember to decant for at least 30 minutes, and you’ll have a deep ruby pour. Inhaling cherries, dark plums, maybe a little cinnamon, blackberries, a scent that reminds me of my other much earlier life of binding books & printmaking, and as it grows a raspblueberry blend. First taste and there’s tart/dark cherries & plums fresh & dried, Kalamata olives, blackberries with seeds & all, again over time that raspblueberry blend again, red currants, and a tad of white & black pepper…so very awake and alive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so smooth and rich

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post, the name “Vanempo” comes from a combo of two words, “Avanza and Tempo” which pretty much means “spare time”. Well, Michele & Laura originally started this wine adventure in their “extra time” as a passion project. As Michele says, “I’ve always believed in beautiful things, and beautiful things arise from a child’s dreams.” Those dreams sparked such a full fledged bio certified winery reality, filled with “hands off” wines that I’ve had the good fortune to encounter like their Maluna, Aura, and now Tramonto (Sunset). I think their mindset & devotion to their land & vines (instead of following certain rules that would clip their wings) help them soar in excellence because each one is so individually special & consistently delicious. As they’ve said, “We don’t like volatile acidity, we don’t like brett and we don’t like sloppy wines made just with the goal to catch some like on the social media. We like the terroir to speak for itself. We could have labeled our wines as Chianti but we have preferred to give up the DOCG as we don’t have any confidence in its moral integrity”.🍷

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Take A Hike

Fabulas
Fortitudo 2023
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP
100% Montepulciano
Organic, biodynamic, sustainable, hand harvested, sheep in the vines
Pretoro, Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy
Nico Ciavalini & partners

Strawberry rose sunrise. Sniffing and there’s strawberries, raspberries, boysenberries, cherries, cool mineral river rock, pomegranate juice, red currants, and a touch of balsamic reduction…truly just a touch. Sipping away and all of the scents with a dribble of blackberry, a little blood orange on the back, yellow plums, and it’s juicy, fresh, lively, and so easy to drink so be careful or the whole bottle will be gone in a flash.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t…step away from the bag

Fabulas’ vines grow within Majella National Park (a UNESCO Global Geopark) and their bottles represent 7 female warriors of the region, mythical tales, history, and traditions. Fortitudo weaves the stories of bandits (briganti) that used to roam the mountainside, caves, etc. and taunt the authorities/soldiers by carving messages into Tavola dei Briganti (limestone slabs) like this quote, “Read my memoirs my dear readers. In 1820 Victor Emanuel, King of Italy, was born. Before 1860, this was the kingdom of flowers, now it’s the kingdom of poverty.” You can still see these marks of resistance and others from shepherds inscribing their names to live on through time. All you need to do is just take a hike, enjoy a moment of peace in nature, and follow in the footsteps of days long past.

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You Don’t Have To Break The Bank

Vallevò
Costa Dei Trabocchi 2023
Terre Di Chieti IGT
Rosato
100% Montepulciano
Rocca San Giovanni, Abruzzo, Italy
Coop technical director: Gianni Pasquale

Sunset rose-pink orange stained-glass (in the 80s would be coral). Sniffing watermelon, strawberries, crushed cherries, grapefruit-light, orange zest, fresh tarragon and some other herbal whiff that I can’t put a name on but maybe marjoram. All of the scents are in the taste with a good squeeze of lime tingle on my lips & tongue, and just fresh & freewheeling.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Nope…don’t ruin a good thing

Vallevò’s line is a part of the co-op winery Cantina Frentana that proves you can have a very, very good wine that doesn’t have to break the bank. There was an importer/distributor (before taking them on) who had doubts when hearing the price point from a group of Italian winemakers checking out CA wineries. They met again at Vintaly and this time there were bottles to taste and those doubts fluttered away. Other than the wine the label also piqued my curiosity as to what is this seaside structure? Turns out it’s called a trabocco that’s an old fishing platform with long wooden rods which held fishing nets that can be raised and lowered by winches. Now you’ll often find they’ve been adapted from their original use into restaurants where you can dine on delights from the sea & local fare and feel the breeze & waves rock you into a peaceful summer afternoon. Oh and from what I read, make sure you make a reservation way in advance or you’ll miss out on the 🦪🦑🦐.

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Be “Still” My Heart

Conselve Vigneti e Cantine
Glera
Veneto IGT
Sustainable development
Conselve (PD), Veneto, Italy
President: Roberto Lorin

Spun straw with a bit of active bubbles at first that fade away. Sniff and there’s fresh rained on pavers, white peaches, crisp pears, bouncing lemons & limes, a blade of grass, touch of kumquat, and it’s just fresh and clean. Taking a sip and all of the scents along with green apple, bit of tangelo, fresh cucumber, crisp lemon/lime, and the bubbles are tiny & slight now too, and a sprinkle of seltzer/salt vibe at the crisp dry end.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: deliciously opens up a whole other array of flavors like white melon, honey & sugarcane

Back in the 1950, the coop Conselve Vigneti e Cantine (like many other producers were & some still are) was more about quantity of the grapes & wine they produced, but then a certain methanol scandal shook Italy in the mid 80s and everyone started rethinking…well…everything. In the 90s the Cantine’s winegrowers/makers turned to the “quality” side and have made changes toward sustainability of their already rich & fertile lands with combining their generations of traditions along with modern thinking & planning. Now this all leads me to this bottle of Glera. After going back through all of my notes, I do believe this is my first still one. All the rest have been bubbly prosecco or pét-nats. So guess what, Conselve you have me hooked. I’m in love! ❤️

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Rebel Angels

Velenosi
Prope 2021
100% Montepulciano
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Hand harvested
Vineyards located in the district of Controguerra
Winery: Ascoli Piceno, Marche, Italy
Wine Team: Ercole & Angela Velenosi, Filippo Carli & Luca Fioravanti (winemakers), and more

Deep inky ruby purple. Sniff and there are scents of dark cherries & plums, some tart cherries too, roses, violets & a little iris, smidge of coriander & cardamom (maybe some toasted too), touch of tobacco, and dried figs & cherries. Tasting cherries & plums tart & smooth, a  dried mix of cherrplulmfiggycot, blackberries, red & black currants, a pinch of black pepper with a teeny bit of cardamom, a little singed blood orange zest in the back, and not so dark but not so sweet chocolate.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: tangy crunchy good

Velenosi creates wines from Marche & Abruzzo and their lands are so near but divided by just a small border between them. Hence the name for their Prope wines which translates from Latin into “close to”. As they say on their site, “Wine is an art capable of making people dream”. These Abruzzo dreams are depicted on their labels & they “chose the inspiration of Osvaldo Licini, a local painter. He is just like Montepulciano: they both represent the true nature of the territory. Licini, a melancholy rebel, depicts gigantic angels riding horses fluttering between the ground and the sky which upon meeting their own reflection or their kindred spirit free themselves in space and time, holding each other’s hands as if dancing. It was love at first sight with Licini and also with his rebel angels which we have chosen for Prope. These angels partly represent us and partly belong to us.” Cheers to these rebellious angels and everyone that keeps this artistic wine dream alive.🍷🪽♥️

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A Kiss To & From Italy

Bacio
Lemon Spritz
Italian lemon & bubbly white wine cocktail
7% ABV
Eco-friendly
Produced & packaged at Cantine Sgarzi Luigi (Fidenza, Parma, Italy)
Born in New York
Founders: Diego Faccioli & Tadas Nikulin

First, follow the directions on the can and “just chill it” then crack, pour, and it reveals a lovely yellow hue with some tiny bubbles & a tad of greenish starlight twinkle. Scents drift up of lemon & grated citrus zest (also reminds me a bit of Limoncello too), a squeeze of lime, and a dash of nose tickling seltzer. Sipping and there’s again lemons & one of my faves a touch of Lemonhead candy, lime squish, a mellow sweetness but not too sweet, mineral rock lick that balances all with a pinch of salt, and that zippy spritz feeling. It’s fresh, crisp, vibrant, and rocking it out of the park.

Pairs with Cheez-Its:  Surprisingly really damn good.

Faccioli & Nikulin bring their Veneto inspired vibe in such a fab portable way that also keeps with their goal of quality. As Diego says, “Bacio combines Italy’s winemaking legacy with modern sophistication. Our sparkling wines are a fusion of tradition and innovation, presented in eco-friendly elegance. It’s not just wine; it’s a reimagined experience of Italian luxury.” BTW do you need a tour guide to Italy? Let Bacio show you the way through their journey. They’ll lead you through wines, cities & the people that live there & a peek into their traditions, where to grab a bite & imbibe, special recipes, festivals, sights not to miss, and you’ll also learn that Diego not only has a mischievous smile…he also has a “sonorous snore” 💤🤣. Anyway, grab a can and feel that flirtatious 💋 from Italy because the country & this spritz are both so easy to love.

Side note: My little shadow or maybe not so little anymore (José Andrés) decided he needed to be included in the pic. He’s such a ham.

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Making Perishable Permanent

Fontanavecchia
Fiano 2022
100% Fiano
Sannio DOP
Torrecuso (BN), Campania, Italy
The Rillo family: Managed by Libero with extra help & guidance from his father Orazio & brother Giuseppe

Color straw with green pops and flecks. Sniff and there’s nose tickling lime followed by lemon & a citrus blend & their orchard blossoms, apples, pears, honeydew, honeysuckle, fresh rained on slate, and a shake of salt. Dancing on my tongue are all of those lovely scents with a savory smidge smoke/peat accent that is waaaaaaay in the back and just gives a little depth & backbone stability much appreciated.

Pairs with Cheez-Its:  perfect pairing

The Rillo family though the years has kept their goals of cultivating & protecting their vines, grapes & lands; learning from history but not forgetting it or leaving traditions behind even as they & their lives continue to grow & intertwine. As often is said about wine families that span generations that they carry a “passion”, “it’s in their veins”, etc., and with them it’s not just an echo of those words or following through the motions…they truly do. A select quote on their site by John Arnott (journalist, cricket afficionado, wine lover, and poetic wordsmith) really struck me. “Wine is a successful effort to translate the perishable into the permanent”. It’s such a simple sentiment yet so encompassing that you can recognize in Fontanavecchia’s wines whether it be their youngsters or reserves. These lovely bottles capture, cement and imprint their solid place in history one drop at a time. ❤️

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