Take Me Home, Country Roads

Occhipinti
SP68 Bianco 2019
Terre Siciliane IGT
Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria) 60%, Albanello 40%
Vittoria, Sicily, Italy
Organic, biodynamic, dry farming, guyot, hand-harvested, 2 weeks skin contact, and native yeasts
Owner and Winemaker: Arianna Occhipinti

Deep golden color with orange tint. Orange, tangerine, and other beautiful citrus waft in along with a hedge of honeysuckles (I can just see honey bees darting from flower to flower and shaking their little bee butts), wild flowers, and a little fresh grass. Tasting again that orange but blended with some smoke. There’s also honey, peaches, apricot, and, a little bit of a French spice blend like the Bouquet Garni from Penzeys. It’s clean and has a fresh zing on the back of the tongue.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Don’t even think about trying that

I’ll start with a quote by Saint-Exupery, that Arianna Occhipinti has on her site, “We do not inherit the land from our ancestors; we borrow It from our children”. What she did inherit was her love for Sicily and the wines from her Uncle Giusto Occhipinti (of COS Winery fame) while helping out in his cellar starting at the age of 16. She also picked up her natural, organic, biodynamic, and reverence for the land from him, even if she did go to oenology school (at 18) for the practical bits. While there she continued to question, made friends with “natural winemakers”, and knew that was to be her path post graduation. As she also says on her site, “Respect the wine as if it was a person. A person who takes with him/her, a world, a history, an atmosphere. And it tastes like the land where it was born from.” This is evident in her SP68 Bianco which is named after the road that winds near her vineyards…a road of deep history that part can be traced back to a 3000 year old stone path which eventually became the oldest wine route documented. When you have a glass of this, just remember a part of this history lives in you.

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Abracadabra!

Quartomoro
Z
Frizzante sui Lieviti
100% Vermentino
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, guyot training, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Hazy golden bubbly with pretty sediment just waiting for you at the base. Pop that cap and come on lemon! You know those light layered wafer cookies that has lemon cream between each layer. Also some tangerine and dainty white flowers. Lift and swig and more lemon on my tongue with a tad of grapefruit, apple, pinch of salt, and a savory mix of spices: sage, thyme rosemary, and a toasty cinnamon thing. It’s crispy and bouncy, and I’m just realizing there’s reminders of Orangina. Fabulous sparkler and IPA lovers would have fun with it too. Best of both worlds

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: no complaints here

Quartomoro has been creating this beauty since 2012. Almost feels like an ancient science experiment, but then so do most wines when you really think about it. From what I read, they take last year’s non bubbly Vermentino (on the lees) and re-ferment the dry base in the bottle and then add the next year’s freshly crushed juice, skin, seed mixture (the must) and the ancestral method works it’s magic. Abracadabra! You have this unfined, unfiltered and non vintage bottle. I’m guessing, I’m drinking a mix of 2018 and 2019, due to the harvests being in September, but feel free to let me know if I’m wrong. It’s nice to think I’m sipping something from before all this 2020 mess. Here’s again to 2021! Raise that glass of frizzante and welcome this New Year in with a big smooch!

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Oh, You Lovely Old Indigenous Grape You

Quartomoro
Òrriu di Sardegna 2018
sulle bucce
100% Vernaccia di Oristano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Beautiful gold like the the ring I’d like on my finger. Sniffing mandarin orange, lemon zest, lilac, salt, and also hints of grapefruit and honeysuckle blossoms. Tasting lots of citrus, some darkness of deep melon, honey, vanilla, flowers and of course almond. This is a beautiful rich gift wrapped up in a bow with a cork on top.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: NOPE! Makes it bitter

Oh, you lovely old indigenous grape you, Vernaccia di Oristano. I swear Sardinia produces some of the most beautiful grapes. Why the heck haven’t I visited there yet? Just you wait, once this pandemic is under control, my bags are packed. So, I’m reading there’s a tale that if you drink a good bit of Vernaccia, it will ward off malaria. Definitely curious to see who came up with that, how tipsy they were, and how much of it is true, because hey you never know. As I wrote in my post “Genie in a Bottle” on the rare grape Granazza (Granatza), some people mistake that grape for Vernaccia di Oristano. There are similarities, but each is an entirely different beast. Also Piero Cella and Luciana Baso’s creation is of a more modern style Vernaccia and lighter than the old more traditional oxidized and sherry-like styles. They let that grape sing! It’s rich, fresh, and full of life! Cheers!

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Harmonic Symphony

Quartomoro
Òrriu Cannonau di Sardegna 2018
100% Cannonau
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, dry farmed, guyot training
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Vibrant ruby glory! When the cork came out it was a cloud of vanilla, dark depth, flowers, forest and cherries of course. Sweet yet tangy fragrance makes me think of ponzu sauce.  Dark and rich flavors of plum, cherries, blueberries, dried figs, and a pinch of Sumac.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Plum turns to sweet prune. Just smooth

A little bird sat on my shoulder and whispered, “Rumor has it that this is the best Cannonau right now!” My feathered friend is definitely onto something. Even though this is a young vineyard (located in the Marrubiu vineyard) the pulverized volacnic/granite enrichment of the soil brings out the best of these grapes. As Piero Cella says, “Our goal is always to make a harmonic symphony from the grapes and to put that into our bottles, at the same time with the real essence of our island.” Harmonic symphony is a very lovely way to put it. It’s as graceful and rich as their wine…and guess what? I have two more of their bottles in the mix to try in the near future. It’s going to be a fun week!

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Let’s Do Some Winter Grilling

Cantine Due Palme
Sangaetano 2018
Primitivo di Manduria DOP
Puglia, Italy
Aged 6 months in American oak barriques
Winemaker Angelo Maci
*If this is on D.O.C. Wine Bar’s menu for delivery/takeout, grab a bottle and order the lamb chops and if you still want more get the meatballs. Perfect pairing.

Deep ruby with hints of violet. Aromas of cherries, vanilla, and a little oak but not overpowering just enhancing the warmth. It’s a lively sip of fresh cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black pepper, and a snap of chocolate that’s turned to the dark side. Dry and ready for us to do some holiday grilling! Would love some really spicy sausages right now!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more smooth and silk

Even though Cantine Due Palme produces around 12 million bottles a year, Angelo Maci has stayed dedicated to quality and sticking with the “Alberello Pugliese” bushvine training system, limiting chemicals in the vineyard, and absolutely no insecticides. They’re even continually working toward greater sustainability. That’s a whole lot of work and dedication for such a large and award winning operation.

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The Great Seducer

Fatalone
Bianco Spinomarino
Greco 2019
100% Greco
Puglia I.G.T.
Gioia delle Colle, Spinomarino, Puglia, Italy
Organic, dry farming, sustainable, green manure, and zero emission
Winemaker: Pasquale Petrera

Pale pretty yellow with a little haze. It’s like a fresh breeze of roses, lilies (not overly heavy), lilacs, and honeysuckle. It’s a unique and beautiful mouthful of honeydew, peaches, pear, honeysuckle nectar, honey fresh from my great grandfather’s hives, and a spice that could be a hint of thyme. This is total enchantment.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Nope! Absolutely not!!! It kills all the ethereal angelic flavors

Fatalone has been around since the 1800s but didn’t starts bottling till 1987. Everything else was bring your own bottle and fill’er up. Spinomarino is their only white wine, and those vines were not planted till 1990. Such a beautiful exotic heady and very unique wine. Kind of fits their name Fatalone. Filippo Petrera was the 2nd generation of this family and had the nickname of Il Fatalone which pretty much translates to “Lady Killer” or seducer. Throw in a bottle of this in a special someone’s Christmas stocking, and I bet you may have a fun night on your hands. Pivoting my head from these thoughts lest I get put on Santa’s naughty list. The winemakers also go above and beyond in making sure the grapes have the utmost care throughout the whole process. They even went as far as soundproofing the cellar and piping in classical music and nature sounds. Now that’s quite a spa treatment.

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Genie in a Bottle

Cantina Orgosa di Musina Giuseppe
Bianco
Granazza (Granatza – Sardinian spelling)
Orgosolo, Nuoro, Sardinia, Italy
Natural, organic, biodynamic
Winemaker: Giuseppe Musina

Vibrant copper orange color. Hmm maybe this is a new hair color for me. Really fresh scents of orange and orange peels, and in particular mandarins, then salt, smoke, and back to orange blossoms…ok we’re going with a whole lot of orange here. Like walking through a grove in the morning as the dew is still glistening on the grass and the fragrance of the fruit and flowers surround you. Mmmm this tastes smooth yet zippy, light, and fresh. Here comes that orange again, mandarin, tangerine, apricot, and a splash of peach. There’s also good old salt, white pepper, and almond.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: maybe a little more tangy but doesn’t change much

Here’s another wonderful wine by Giuseppe Musina. Never fails and as always love the depiction of one of the infamous local murals on the label. You can read more about them on my earlier post https://worldbyglass.com/a-town-of-murals/

The lovely grape living in this bottle like a genie is Granazza (Granatza), and is an ancient and somewhat rare white grape variety found around the town of Mamoiada in the centre of Sardinia. Some people believe it to be a synonym of Nuragus, and others mistake it for Vernaccia di Oristano. From what I’m finding, Giuseppe (I believe in 2014) lost a few stumps due to frost and other elements, but didn’t loose heart, and replanted with Granazza. I see those lost vines as a win for him as I sit here sipping this beautiful glass.

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Follow the Moon

Hilberg Pasquero
29.5 Per Alessandra
Barbera d’Alba 2016
100% Barbera
Vino Rosso
Priocca, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy
Biodynamic, organic, sustainable farming, and native yeasts
Winemaker couple: Miklo and Annette (Hilberg) Pasquero

Dark violet velvet drapery. Breathing in cherry, plum, cinnamon and a warm hug. Post hug you’re gifted a bouquet of wild flowers and something rustic like tobacco or dried apple leaves on the ground. Elegant and touch rugged on my tongue at the same time. There’s silky cherry, rustic plum, blackberries, and leather. The word I absolutely hate to use for wine…it’s sexy…I’d say let’s all take a roll in the hay but none of that funky stuff in this one.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: of all it’s more leather (thwack and SMack) and still smooth

29.5 get’s it’s namesake from the lunar phase cycle which is 29.5 days from New Moon to New Moon. So much of our own existence is governed by these cosmic push an pulls. Throughout history farmers used cycles to decide when to plant, when to grow, when to pick, when to harvest and even when to bottle. Some people think nah, this has to do with pagan traditions, but the more I read about biodynamic farming, it seems pretty sound to me. The days in the cycle have groupings of root, flower, leaf and fruit. Fruit days are supposed to be when time for winemaking is at its best and that period just happens to fall into the fire signs. Since I’m a Sagittarius, does that mean that I may have a winemaking adventure in my future? Or does that just mean I should open a special bottle on my birthday….which is coming up pretty soon…hint, hint, hint.

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Orange is the New Black

Castello di Stefanago
Stüvenagh Orangiosauro 2019
“Mi stai sulle bucce!”
Provincia di Pavia IGP
Fortunago, Lombardy, Italy
80% Chardonnay, 20% Cortese
Organic, hand harvested, ambient yeasts and unfiltered
Winemakers: Antonio and Giacomo Baruffaldi

Jail jumpsuit orange. Raising the glass and there’s orange, tangerine, and oooh barnyard. Waiting for the yard to bail out (not as much on day two).Ok it’s starting to fade and orange blossoms are added, but the hint of dark is still there (on day one), followed by salt and smoke. Sipping orange and orange blossoms, lemon, salt, and a lick of granite. There’s still some earthy darkness, but on day two it’s pretty much gone. Replaced with super light honey. Let it breathe more and it is refreshing, tangy and definitely fun. A fashionable glass of sunshine that would really go well with anything with cloves

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more light and smooth. I kind of prefer it before the pairing.

This isn’t just an orange wine, it’s a wine that beer lovers would seriously enjoy. Kind of makes sense because on their website it says they partner with Stüvenagh brewery (and their logo/name is on this wine label). Also learning that Stüvenagh comes from the Celtic word for Stefanago. Another fun fact it the brewery is just as organic as the winery. If you want to get a good look as to how magical their lands and castle are, please check out this video. A little more than a minute of your time will take you on a vacation that we are all longing.

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Absolutely All Natural

Crealto
Vino Rosso “Agricolae” 2018
Alfiano Natta, Italy
100% Barbera
Organic (certified) and biodynamic (but not certified, because getting certified costs a pretty penny)
Winemaker: Luigi Armanino

Shining dark velvet ruby. Oh here come the lovely cherry scents, plums, light earth, and berries of all sorts from strawberries to blue berries and cherry Jolly Rancher. Nice powerful feel rolling around in my mouth. There’s cherries, plums (dancing in my head), faint raspberries, and a touch of orange. Natural darkness and rosemary that turns into sweet loving velvety embrace. This will keep all the extended family, friends, and in-laws happy and away from political discussions during the holiday season. Whether online or in person, they will be too busy talking about how much they love this wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: nice pair. A little more earthy and more bitter herbs

Crealto’s owners, Eleonora Costa and Luigi Armanino, made a decision in 2013, that I’m starting to see in many natural winemakers. They bucked the AOC panel and went with declassifying their wines, so they can stay true to their vinification path. They also have rooms to stay over and from what I’m seeing a beautiful restaurant with a very reasonably priced tasting menu. Everything is grown by them or either locally sourced and organic. The wholemeal flours and oils are even made on their farm. Just scrumptious all around!

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