Quench That Thirst

Mas del Périé
Soif d’Ailleurs 2019
Vin de France
Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picpoul, Clairette Rose, Clairette Blanche, Counoise, Cinsault, Muscat de Hambourg, Malbec
Cahors, Quercy, Occitanie, France
Biodynamic, organic, Monsieur Mouton’s eco-grazing sheep, native yeasts, hand harvested, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaker: Fabian Jouves

Reddish orange-rose and so bright. Swirl, sniff and popping orange zest, roses, Canadian strawberries (this tiny ones I so love), a smidge of tarragon, faint straw, and fresh summer rain on slate. On this is one fruity juicy jumble of goodness in my mouth. There’s raspberries, mandarins (and zest), blueberry muffin, strawberries, and a dark cherry bite. Floating with this happy light summer red on a warm night.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: oh yes so much more sweet summer berries

Soif d’Ailleurs translates to “Thirst for Elsewhere”. Haven’t we all had that thirst over this past year? That yearning to escape and fly away to special places in our hearts? This is my second Fabian Jouves’ creation that is transporting me back to France and all its delights. It’s like he’s a magical biodynamic hands off mixmaster, just letting nature and the stars take their course, in the field and in the cellar. My first was “You F&@K My Wine ?! 2019”, which was another playful, juicy bio with a De Niro name. “Soif d’Ailleurs 2019” is a lighter, refreshing bottle of joy that can quench your thirst and get you in just as much trouble because it’s one smooth drinker that you can kick up your heels with. If I had to match this wine with a star (like before), I’d say this one is more like Christopher Walken. Suave, a huge blend of personalities, cool and light on his feet. Who wouldn’t want to get down and take a spin with Walken.

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A Volcano Raised Cherry

Desprat Saint-Verny
Le Pinot Noir 2019
Puy de Dôme IGP
Sustainable farmed, indigenous yeast
Puy de Dôme, Auvergne, France
Winemaker: Julien Maurs and a 65-grower cooperative

Maroon you remember the crayon…not the band. Ah scents of delicious cherries, plums, blueberries, a touch of earth. a little cola that goes great with a little warn croissant. Sipping cherry funk, plums, blackberries, blueberries, and pinch of pepper. It’s light with a nice touch of earthy/natural touch of darkness with all sorts of dried fruits from cherries to figs.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: gives it a more rich zing

This Pinot Noir comes with a nickname of “Les Cerises” or the cherries that are represented inside and outside the bottle. This lovely grape is fed well from the volcanic soil of Auvergne, which has a loooong history of wine and in modern day a determined co-op that worked really hard to achieve Cotes d’Auvergne AOC recognition  in 2011. There’s just something about this wine that makes me think about my favorite writer, Martin Walker, and his “Bruno Chief of Police” series. Specifically it makes me think of when his fictional town of St. Denis (in Dordogne) has their outdoor festivals. Whether it’s from “The Dark Vineyard” where townsfolk come together to harvest grapes ending in a bbq under the stars, or one of their outdoor music fêtes sipping a glass while listening to the featured chanteuse of the night. Pure enchantment.

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Smooch that Big Bad Wolf

Chateau de Roquefort
Gueule de Loup, de Villeneuve 2018
Bouches du Rhône IGP
80% Grenache, 10% Cinsault, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Biodynamic, organic, vegan, indigenous yeasts, natural , unfiltered, unfined, co-fermented
Provence, France
Winemaker: Raimond de Villeneuve

Shiny glistening garnet. Immediately it’s creamy, cherries, strawberries, blueberries, cola, rich dried figs and reduction too, lovely dark funk. Getting ready for that first sip and it’s a cherry coated in white and black pepper, dried mission figs, dark plums, strawberry and raspberry frappe, and to cap it off, coriander and smoke.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Smooth berries and dark berries. Like blueberries in a muffin pan that has stuck to the edge and erupted and you want to scrape off that charred goodness.

When I saw “Gueule de Loup”, all I could think of is the Italian phrase “in bocca al lupo” which translates to “in the mouth of the wolf” but is to wish you good luck (albeit the wolf dies). In French it is all about the wolf’s mouth too, but is also a snapdragon flower, which roams wild with the vines. Well, Raimond’s land is pretty lucky in this microclimate that lets the grapes be picked a little later. He’s also full of quotes on his site that sum the most of him and his cuvées’ parts. Please take a look at the photo essays with each one. You’ll feel like you can touch and smell the land and the play and earnestness of his beliefs. As with, “These are not “serious” wines. They are addressed to all those who like “seriously” to drink wine and not to those who taste with the tip of their lips, smell and exclaim for hours!” This is real, natural, a whole other level, and just enjoy. Please never forget time with wine is time well spent when you can just relax, smile with your friends, and talk (not only about wine).

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It’s Alive!

Domaine Didon
Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Pinot Noir
Chassey-le-Camp, Côte Chalonnaise, France
Biodynamic, whole bunch fermentation, and vineyard is worked by horse and hand
Winemakers and owners: Naïma and David Didon

Bright shimmering purple with garnet sparks. Breathing in cherries, blueberries, a little smoke, a blend of rosemary, savory, and tarragon. Also leather motorcycle chaps. I used to have the best pair, and wonder where they are today. Would they fit? Yes. Would it work in my new world…hmmmm…maybe. Back to tasting the wine and there’s sweet berries, blueberries, strawberries, tingly tart cherry with a little burn that mellows and again tarragon and rosemary for a moment at the end. It’s just a burst of flavor that’s light and fragrant and so very alive. It seems like a call to Spring and giving a finger to Punxsutawney Phil.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bouncy juicy fruit

David Didon’s biodynamic tale starts with a simple class in school when he knew he was interested in organic farming. All it takes is a little spark like that and look at him and his wife Naïma now. They have their own little historic plot after buying a farm in  Chassey-le-Camp in Côte Chalonnaise. Now there were twists and turns on that road. Working on varying farms, learning from mentors, David declining military life by being a conscientious objector, working and learning more in the organic/bio wine world, and eventually making his way to Beaune and his future wife. Their little 2 ha lieu-dit, is fully biodynamic and no tractors allowed. This is a horse and hand operation, just like the days of old. Cellar keeps to “hands off” as much as possible and NO added sulphur, which I dearly love. Stay true to the land, stay true to the fruit and stay true to life!

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Mr. Moonlight

Domaine des Carabiniers
Lunar Apogé
100% Syrah
IGP Pays d’OC 2018
Roquemaure, France
Biodynamic, organic, dry farmed, hand harvested at night to prevent oxidation, and native yeasts
Founder and winemaker: Christian Leperchois; Vineyard Manager & Maître de Chai: Fabien Leperchois

Ruby garnet bling. Popping out cherry scents, roses, plums, Tampa cigar rolling tobacco leaves…yeah, I went to school down there for a little bit, and toasted rosemary. Dark cherry luscious tastes that turns into a cherry tart hand pie, juicy plums, raspberries, strawberries, dried cherries, chewing fresh rosemary and nibbling on an orange peel. Smoooooth as it opens up. Tasted during Full “Wolf Moon”, it’s less about howling, and more about warm nuzzling.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it deeper, richer

This is a history of wine born in Tuscany and then transplanted to France. After settling in their new country, the Leperchois family started with 3 hectares and is now up to 50 (potentially still growing) and in 1990 became organic and 2006 biodynamic. Even with their growth, they are keeping it truly a family operation and focusing on quality. Just check out their pics on their site which also include their adorable little black panther Vestide who was found, or found them in their vines. Domaine des Carabiniers’ Lunar Apogé line gives a nod to the lunar calendar and how it is an important part of cycle of the vines and wine just like climate, soil, weather, and how you let nature do it’s thing. As Fabien says on their site, “To make a good wine, you need to have good grapes. Nature does the rest. A Maître de Chai is first and foremost a wine-grower, more so with Biodynamic farming.” Sometimes, as in this beautiful wine, less is more.

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With a Little Help From His Friends

A la Vôtre!
Hou la la!! 2019
VDF Rouge
Loire, France
100% Pinot Noir
Practicing organic
Winemaker: Laurent Lebled

Dark red tapestry color. My nose is loving these plums, blueberries, deep cherries, vanilla wafers, dried rich fruit, and a tiny hint of celery seed. Delicious tastes of dark tart cherry, faint hay, strawberries and strawberry Pop Tart, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, a smidge of orange peel and some woodsy earth. Super juicy! It’s also an elegant wine that you could dress up for or casually lounge around sipping in a comfy sweatshirt while hiding in a Zoom meeting.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: I’m not sure if it changes much but makes it more rich and makes me want more. Putting them away before I drink the whole bottle.

This is not the usual, story of a winery passed down through the generations. It’s a second act. Laurent Lebled worked in wood, not wine for over 30 years and well, life changed. Lost his job at the worst time, the 2008 recession. Well, he was lucky enough to have two great friends (Sébastien Bobinet and Patrick Corbineau) that convinced him to change his life. Ok, so there is a tale of inheritance, Sébastien’s grandfather left him 2 hectares of vines, and he just knew this would be Laurent’s new destiny. Laurent learned from Sébastien through the 2009 vintage. 2010, Sébastien and Patrick helped and guided Laurent though the first “A la Vôtre!” Then it was time for the bird to leave the nest. Since then he has rented vines and cellars until 2019. He had the good fortune to buy 10 hectares of vines and a cellar. Funny how life works out. Just when everything seems dark, another door opens. You just have to trust and embrace it.

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Cock-A-Doodle-Doo!

Domaine la Grangette 
CocoriKo 2018
Côtes de Thau IGP
100% Piquepoul Noir
Sustainable/Lutte raisonnée agriculture and heading organic
Castelnau-de-Guers, Languedoc, France
Winemakers: Christelle & Mathieu Caron

Dark cherry with blue-purple highlights (takes me back to my Manic Panic days). Fragrant cherries, roses, strawberries but it reminds me of the smell of the ones they put on a sundae. Also salt and faint licorice. Sipping and it’s smooth baby… with tastes of cherry, cocoa, strawberries, blueberries, singed sage, and a little salty whisper.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: more rich and dark

Have had many blanc bottles enjoyed in the summertime warmth of the sun, but this is my first 100% Piquepoul Noir which is one of the 13 grapes permitted in Châteauneuf du Pape. Wow, what a happy, fresh, juicy, and fun wine. And such a plump little chickie/rooster on the label whose call “Cocoriko” is this bottle’s namesake. Domaine la Grangette was passed down by Christelle’s parents in 2013, and they are doing something pretty special. They are the only Piquepoul vineyard working with all three colors, and I’m wishing I had the white and rosé to try side by side. The Domaine has forests, trails, and wonderful soil as it was used for farming (grains and alfalfa) since the French Revolution, and even before that their had been ancient lakes and and sea coverage creating the terroir. Now with their use of lutte raisonnée agriculture, they replenish the land post harvest with plowing the cuttings and such back under and giving back to the earth. Kind of their version of the circle of life…yes, you can now thank me for having that song stuck in your head for the rest of the day. Cheers!

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Pass the Fried Chicken

Domaine Christophe Pacalet
Beaujolais Nouveau 2019
Gamay
Beaujolais AOP
Les Bruyères, Cercie, France
Native yeasts, hand harvested, “lutte raisonnée” vine cultivation
Winemaker: Christophe Pacalet

Light young garnet. Open that door and release that touch of barn that runs out the yard. Next are aromas of cinnamon, plum, raspberries, cloves, and cherries. Taking the first sip and there’s more of that plum with a touch of sharp twang, chocolate, cherry (but not chocolate covered cherries), smoke, a ping of orange, and oddly blueberry and mango.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just more juicy

Christophe Pacalet did have wine in his blood but took on a stint of biochemistry and cooking before returning to Beaujolais to learn from his famed (Morgon) uncle Marcel Lapierre. Who better to guide him along this path. Christophe has taken the route of renting instead of purchasing a vineyard. This gives him a chance to work with old vines and pick from the best. Yes, there’s less grapes, but better wine in the end. Have to add, this is a great wine for southern food. Seriously, it is. It went fab with my potato salad with hot peppers and capers. Also would work well with a good homemade fried chicken, especially the legs and thighs. Just remember, as I was taught by my mom…if you want good fried chicken soak it in salt water in the fridge over night. Don’t forget to make a side of jalapeño cornbread and mustard greens doused in hot pepper vinegar too, for a delicious evening you aren’t soon to forget.

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Float Like a Butterfly

Domaine le Roc des Anges
L’effet Papillon
Cueillette 2019
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Roussillon, France
Biodynamic, sustainable, organic
90% Grenache Blanc, 10% Macabeu
Winemaker Couple: Marjorie and Stéphane Gallet

Light refreshing straw yellow. Post opening tangerine and lemon pop out followed by pear, some salt and ginger. The pears and still here in the first sip along with tangerine, cantaloupe, and light ginger. It’s just silky smooth and fits like an elegant glove that goes all the way up your arm and has those tiny buttons that are just asking to be taken out to the ball.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it all sooooo sweet

Marjorie and Stéphane started from different places yet both in the countryside and a love for outdoors. When they both ended up at agronomy school in Montpellier, a mutual love for horses brought them together. What better way to fall in love, but on horseback. Seriously romantic! Wine love also was thrown into the mix and it grew and after years of learning through teachers, process, curiosity, and from each other, they are now thriving at Domaine le Roc des Anges. It’s rugged northern Roussillon farming, but since they are biodynamic, it brings the best out of the grape. Isn’t it often the case that the more difficult path often produces the best in the end. It also doesn’t hurt that they gently hand harvest when it’s nice and cool. Probably about as gentle as gliding on butterfly wings.

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Old Vines Make Fine Wine

Terres Dorées
Beaujolais L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2018
100% Gamay
Charnay, France
Organic, sustainable, hand harvested, indigenous yeasts
Winemaker: Jean-Paul Brun

Swirling a deep glistening Gamay garnet glass. Fragrant strawberries, raspberries, and fresh cherries fill my nose and this is a breath of happiness. Once I take a sip, I find all sorts of berry juice from strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, and more. There’s also some rugged cherry, and lots of citrus popping. Earth, cedar, and some sage that all say drink this baby NOW!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: juicy fruity

This lovely wine with the very telling name “L’Ancien” comes from some of the oldest vines at Terres Dorées which are anywhere from 40 to 60 years. Nice having a youngster birthed from such aged lineage. Instead of going carbonic with his wines, Jean-Paul Brun has stuck with the traditional Burgundian vinification method where the grapes are lovingly hand harvested, destemmed, and only indigenous yeasts that sprout forth are allowed. Jean-Paul sees this as the way to allow the to Gamay shine and also not to be forgotten the sustainable land where it all started from. Sometimes and more often than not, the natural ways of the past are where we should return.

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