It’s Alive!

Domaine Didon
Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Pinot Noir
Chassey-le-Camp, Côte Chalonnaise, France
Biodynamic, whole bunch fermentation, and vineyard is worked by horse and hand
Winemakers and owners: Naïma and David Didon

Bright shimmering purple with garnet sparks. Breathing in cherries, blueberries, a little smoke, a blend of rosemary, savory, and tarragon. Also leather motorcycle chaps. I used to have the best pair, and wonder where they are today. Would they fit? Yes. Would it work in my new world…hmmmm…maybe. Back to tasting the wine and there’s sweet berries, blueberries, strawberries, tingly tart cherry with a little burn that mellows and again tarragon and rosemary for a moment at the end. It’s just a burst of flavor that’s light and fragrant and so very alive. It seems like a call to Spring and giving a finger to Punxsutawney Phil.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bouncy juicy fruit

David Didon’s biodynamic tale starts with a simple class in school when he knew he was interested in organic farming. All it takes is a little spark like that and look at him and his wife Naïma now. They have their own little historic plot after buying a farm in  Chassey-le-Camp in Côte Chalonnaise. Now there were twists and turns on that road. Working on varying farms, learning from mentors, David declining military life by being a conscientious objector, working and learning more in the organic/bio wine world, and eventually making his way to Beaune and his future wife. Their little 2 ha lieu-dit, is fully biodynamic and no tractors allowed. This is a horse and hand operation, just like the days of old. Cellar keeps to “hands off” as much as possible and NO added sulphur, which I dearly love. Stay true to the land, stay true to the fruit and stay true to life!

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A Young, Bright “Heavenly Sky”

Mother Rock Wines
Force Celéste
Cinsault 2019
W.O. Swartland
Swartland, South Africa
Organic, dry-farmed, native yeasts, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaker: Johan Meyer, AKA “Stompie”

Beautiful stained glass window ruby color. Fragrant roses, magnolias, cherry, and lots of spice still sorting and part of it is cinnamon. Also funk and hay and someone has turned on the wood smoker. Wonder what’s in there cooking. Now onto the taste…tart cherry, fuuuunky natural hay, hay, hay. Orange peel, young plums, skittles – taste the rainbow, black and white pepper, and tingle brightness with dry finish.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: kills the hay

Mother Rock Wines is Johan Meyer’s (Stompie) collaboration with UK importer Ben Henshaw of IndigoWines, and after doing a long search on him, he’s as about as natural as they come…resembling some of the “dudes” I went to college with back in Athens. He now has gotten his hands on his own farm and planting his own vines (hoping for fruit for the 2023 vintage), but this Cinsault came from other reliable organic sources. He also has a penchant for whole bunch pressing or fermenting and native yeasts which explains all that super natural hay. It must be truly exciting for him to now full out own his own land, to work it, and to introduce the first vines to this clean fresh land. Looking forward to following his new venture/adventure and taste his little part of Swartland.

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Guided by the Stars

Antica Tenuta Pietramore
Methode Ancestrale
Pét Nat 2019
100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Colli Aprutini IGT
Abruzzo Italy
Organic, biodynamic, hand-harvested, and indigenous yeasts
Winemakers: Maria Pia Leone & Massimiliano Bartolomei

Light straw yellow with seriously active bubbles and some sediment, and the final pour is dark gold orange with crystal sediment. After popping the cap off, wow! Hadn’t even poured it yet. There’s exotic flowers, a whiff of hay/yeast that comes and goes but this is the first glass and later it has drifted away. Next comes pears, honey, lemon zest, salt, and something herby like a pinch of some oregano and rosemary and oddly a hint of cinnamon. Sipping and exciting tingling on my tongue. Those bubbles keep rocking. Again pears, golden apples, Valencia oranges, a good squeeze of lemon, light honey, salt, and a faint Italian herbal shaker mix. There’s also dryness and at end a bit of ginger. Whoof that’s a whole lot, but is such a delicious song when you drink and don’t dissect, it’s just amazing. I really enjoyed Vanita but this is a whole different beast.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Bring’s on the zest!

Pietramore’s wines have the most beautiful bottles, with a different stone and constellation on each bottle. Andrea Castelletti (art and creative director) took the name of the winery: Pietra – stone and amore – love; then brought in their biodynamic aspects of cultivation and winemaking which I’ve mentioned before, including the pass of the moon, the connection of the earth and sky,…. and is also represented through these ancient constellations. Many constellations have a mythic tale, but Chamaeleon was designated by Dutch navigators who often chose exotic creatures to help them traverse the seas at night. This little lizard combined by the slice of stone on the label holds a little secret too…it glows in the dark! Leave the bottle out in the light for a while, then find the darkest spot in your home, and you’ll get to enjoy this little surprise too.

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Loved By God

Buli
Amidei 2015
Toscana Rosso IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Sangiovese 40%, Merlot 20%
Organic, hand harvested, and 70% Unilateral Cordon-spur trained (cane pruned) and 30% Guyot
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Sparkling ruby fit for a ring *knock knock you know who…Valentine’s Day is coming up! Inhaling cherries, a dozen roses, strawberries, lilies, pleasant oak with anise, and spice. Can’t wait to get to the taste and it’s full of strawberries, fine oak, cherries, and blueberries thrown into the batch. There’s dark deep depth and rustic earth, yet I’m still drinking those beautiful roses…majestic.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Darker, deeper, richer and funkier and sweeter

Amidei (which means “Loved by God”) is the name of Robert Buly’s grandmother’s family. They were also wine and olive oil merchants from Florence. As I’ve written about before, Robert was drawn back to the romantic history and his family in Italy and also to these same delicious ways. Buli’s Amidei “Super Tuscan” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot ages for 2 years, but doesn’t get permission to hang out all together. 40% get the new French oak and 60% used. Hey, what’s wrong with vintage clothes when they’re couture? Then they get to play together for one month before bottling. This swirl then gets to age in a bottle for a year, and then it’s up to you when to open. I ask, why wait for 2022, Mr. Suckling? Life is short, and last year totally showed us this more than anything. Seize the moment, open the good bottle and live a little! Bring over a charcuterie board, along with some grilled lamb chops, put a record on to spin and let’s get down tonight.

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Let Nature Speak and Love it Back

Occhipinti
SP68 Rosso 2019
Terre Siciliane IGT
Frappato 70% Nero d’Avola 30%
Vittoria, Sicily, Italy
Organic, biodynamic, dry farming, guyot and Cordon-spur trained, hand-harvested, and native yeasts
Owner and Winemaker: Arianna Occhipinti

Bright, light Christmas tinsel garnet. Just opened the bottle and there’s buttery that fades, roses, flashy cherry, plums, strawberries and cherry starbursts. Sipping cherries, raisins, strawberries, raspberries, and old school orange that in the holidays, your mom would make you cover in cloves and hang in the kitchen. There’s also white pepper, earthiness/darkness and a smooth dry finish. It’s a bottle full of life that could use a steak with chimichuri sauce.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out more berries like blackberries and blueberries

This is my second Occhipinti (see post) and Arianna is a true wine whisperer. Her respect for every aspect…from the land and whether it’s on an incline, the climate, the vines, the local yeast, and the list can go on and on…is so reverent. She just listens to nature, gives all of it love and care, and let it also do its own thing. She truly loves Sicily and especially her part of world, and she says it best on her site, “Vittoria, wine, vineyard, dry stone walls. This is my land. Early in the morning the sun rises on the Iblei Mountains, while the sky turns red in layers and the warm light spreads amongst the rows of “Fossa di Lupo”, my district. I love the grapes of these places, Frappato and Nero d’ Avola. I feel myself in their expression, in being harmonic and unequal. I love the strength of the know-how to bring in the past and the future at the same time”. I’ve never met her, but through her words and wines, I feel like I am feeling and experiencing just a touch of her land, and honestly it makes me feel so warm in my heart.

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Tiny Bubbles

Recaredo
Terres Brut Nature 2014
Corpinnat
Sant Sadurni D’Anola
Xarel·lo 56%, Macabeu 42%, Parellada 2%
Sant Sadurni D’Anoia, Penedès, Spain
Sustainable farming, biodynamic, hand-picked, Indigenous grapes and yeasts

Gold and glistening with tiny bubbles. Now this is quite a mix in my nose…lemon, lime, peaches, apples, all spice, basil, and brown sugar/caramel. Fragrant surprise! Now sipping and a little swish and again lemon-lime mix, apples, strawberries, cardamon, toasty pastry and toasted rice (you know like the type sizzling in the bottom of your clay bowl of bibimbap). It’s not a pie, but it makes me just as happy!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just tastes good with it. No complaints. Any bar that has this by the glass should set these out and they’ll drink more

“We learn from time…we build on a history”, greets you at Recaredo’s site, and they definitely are following through on this quote. It all started back in 1924, when Josep Mata Capellades started in the working world of sparkling and undertaking making his own cellar in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (Barcelona). 1944 rolls around, and now he’s named his winery after his father, Recaredo Mata Figueres. As time flies, his sons come on board and this family winery is becoming distinct for their long aging, their terroir focused sparkling, and sticking with natural cork stoppers. By the 90s it was the third generation and 2006, they embrace going biodynamic. 2017, brings about a reward for all the years of hard work being named, Catalonia’s Best Winery by the ACS. And now we get to my favorite part, 2018 is when they joined Corpinnat. To take this on you must be 100% sustainable, hand harvested grapes that are mainly indigenous from Penedès, and made all at the winery with a longer aging time of at least 18 months in the bottle and more. Heck, this bottle aged 49 months. It’s a step above, a bit strict but proves their dedication to their grapes, method and the Penedès region, and it really pays off with this bottle.

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Getting the Mix Right

Celler Frisach
L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre 2019
Garnatxa Negra 60%, Carinyena 40%
Terra Alta D.O.
Corbera d’Ebre, Catalonia, Spain
Organic and Biodynamic
Winemaker brothers: Francesc and Joan Ferre

Light cherry garnet color. After uncorking there’s cherries, plums, tiny flowers, and some dark natural earthy funk but not as much in previous ones I have had. There’s also almond and something toasty like biscotti. As for taste, there’s light cherry dancing with a little sprig of hay. Raspberry comes next, a pinch of pine, smooth cherry jolly rancher, and juicy plums with a mix of dried ones too. Moving on to the tingle on the tongue, almond, white pepper, and at the end there’s chocolate but so lovely and light. Quite a mouthful, but it all works together so well.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Tart!

This isn’t the first time I’ve encountered L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre, but it was quite a while ago with a different label and a much stronger natural funk that hung around. I was so happy when I opened the  2019, and it is a bottle of perfection. They got the mix just right. This is one of those wines where you’re kicking yourself for not having a second bottle. Not going to lie, I did not share this with anyone because no way this one is all mine.

Francesc and Joan transformed their 200 year old family farm/vineyard into Celler Frisach back in 2009, but evidently their family had been doing it in an organic manner all those past years. Coming from this farm experience they want their vineyards to stick to the same historic integrity and also look to the future of experimenting with the grape and furthering the eco-friendly and certified organic aspects of their farming. Their L’Abrunet de Frisach Negre, the Garnatxa Negra and the Carinyena grapes are now grown in the blended farming way of the past. They grow together yet in two different plots within their land, to get the best result for the grapes and then harmonize in this bottle. As many of the wine families I’ve written about, Francesc and Joan have that same dedication and respect to their heritage, land, vineyards and Terra Alta. As they say on their site, “We are roots, we are Corbera, we are wine”.

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Mr. Moonlight

Domaine des Carabiniers
Lunar Apogé
100% Syrah
IGP Pays d’OC 2018
Roquemaure, France
Biodynamic, organic, dry farmed, hand harvested at night to prevent oxidation, and native yeasts
Founder and winemaker: Christian Leperchois; Vineyard Manager & Maître de Chai: Fabien Leperchois

Ruby garnet bling. Popping out cherry scents, roses, plums, Tampa cigar rolling tobacco leaves…yeah, I went to school down there for a little bit, and toasted rosemary. Dark cherry luscious tastes that turns into a cherry tart hand pie, juicy plums, raspberries, strawberries, dried cherries, chewing fresh rosemary and nibbling on an orange peel. Smoooooth as it opens up. Tasted during Full “Wolf Moon”, it’s less about howling, and more about warm nuzzling.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it deeper, richer

This is a history of wine born in Tuscany and then transplanted to France. After settling in their new country, the Leperchois family started with 3 hectares and is now up to 50 (potentially still growing) and in 1990 became organic and 2006 biodynamic. Even with their growth, they are keeping it truly a family operation and focusing on quality. Just check out their pics on their site which also include their adorable little black panther Vestide who was found, or found them in their vines. Domaine des Carabiniers’ Lunar Apogé line gives a nod to the lunar calendar and how it is an important part of cycle of the vines and wine just like climate, soil, weather, and how you let nature do it’s thing. As Fabien says on their site, “To make a good wine, you need to have good grapes. Nature does the rest. A Maître de Chai is first and foremost a wine-grower, more so with Biodynamic farming.” Sometimes, as in this beautiful wine, less is more.

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Pour Another and Sing to My Heart

Bodegas Grupo Yllera
Boada
Campo de bueyes
Crianza 2014
D.O. Ribera del Duero
Boada de Roa, Burgos, Spain
100% Tempranillo
Hand harvested, 6 months in French (Allier) and American oak barrels

This is dark, dark, dark, ruby purple…I can’t see through it. Uncork and here comes oak, caramel, cocoa, raspberry, blueberries, vanilla, plums, and gold ol’ cherry. First sip and realize it’s rustic yet velvety. There’s oak, a delicious vanilla wafer dipped in a smidge of caramel, cherries, some lovely portiness, blueberries, raspberries, tellicherry peppercorn, dark chocolate and coffee. Kind of like a little mole sauce. Where’s my side of saffron rice? In the end this juicy goblet has a nice dry finish.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: just wants me to have another glass

Grupo Yllera is in its 6th generation and has over time acquired wineries and vineyards that had been pretty much given up on or were amenable for a sale. They also acquire grapes from some cooperatives, but are strict across the board on quality. Vines have to be of a “certain age” (wow, I can’t believe I’m using that term as a good one), and the company as a whole strives to reduce their impact on the environment albeit from residue to emissions to water. This may be a large group, but as they say on their site, “At Grupo Yllera wineries we consider ourselves a great little family.” Well, this extended family received a Decanter Bronze for this velvet beauty, so hats off to that! There’s just something about this wine that is hard to put into words. It’s more than the smell and taste, but the emotion it brings out. While sipping last night, my thoughts drifted to an old memory and an old well loved song that always makes my heart hurt in a good way. Tom Waits’ “I Hope That I Don’t Fall In Love With You” is what is in this bottle, or at least for me. I know most people would think, it would be a cigarette and whisky neat, but give this Boada a try and let me know how you feel.

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Finding the Real Dory

AdegaMãe
Dory
vinho tinto 2019
IG Lisboa
Turcifal, Portugal
Touriga Nacional 38%, Syrah 27%, Pinot Noir 12%, Aragonez 23%
Winemakers: Anselmo Mendes and Diogo Lopes

Cherry purple gothiness. Uncork and let it breathe…then exhale and breathe in deep cherry, plum, baking chocolate, and warm pepper. Another deep hug in a glass. Rolling around back and forth over my tongue and there’s cherries, strawberries, blueberries, fresh picked blackberries seeds and all, and fenugreek. Nice and juicy and a happy wine. Don’t over think it. Just enjoy and maybe order some bacalhau croquettes. Mmmmm.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it more velvet, sweet, glorious

Dory’s name comes from a nod to the small shallow boats the cod fishermen of old (not the cute Pixar/Disney fish). One would wonder, why that? Well, João António Alves founder of AdegaMãe, is also the founder of Riberalves which is the leader of cod in Portugal. He and his family now have a hand in two of the best of Portugal, wine and cod (bacalhau). The more I read on the history of how the fishermen used to travel so insanely far and believe me not in a luxurious quarters, I wonder at their amazing physical and mental strength and endurance. Once the home base ship ended up in Newfoundland they’d take off in the smaller one man boats (Dóris) into perilous waters and fish their fill, return to the main and immediately salt the fish. These guys make “Deadliest Catch” look like child’s play.

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