It’s All About the Schist

Le Fief Noir
Ouest Coast
Anjou 2017
100% Chenin Blanc
Certified organic and hand-harvested
St-Lambert du Lattay, Loire, France
Winemakers: Alexis Soulas and Dominique Sirot

Golden starlight twinkle twinkle. Pull the cork and breathing buttercream, butterscotch that fades into pineapple, yellow watermelon (yeah each color/one does smell different), lemon and lemon vanilla wafer. Sipping creamy salty lemon, key lime, kumquat, very mellow papaya, light orangey pops, and honey filled pear. I think I’ve had my weekly allotment of fruit! There’s also dried sage in the end and then bring that citrus back round again with a salt shake. So sweet, calm, and clean and bright that is yearning for some yellow fin sushi with jalapeño.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Raises the citrus

Alexis Soulas and Dominique Sirot became friends and hatched their wine plan in Corsica, but Anjou was where they landed. Back in 2012, they tasted the wine of Domaine des Chesnaies, decided this was the exact place for their project to take root, and after a renaming Le Fief Noir was born. Soil is the key and king here. The black schist of L’Anjou Noir is perfect for Chenin Blanc and also is where their name Le Fief Noir stemmed. Their passion for their wines is evident in the bottle and in their writings online. They have a lot to say, check their website. Alexis Soulas says, “A wine is never entirely finished. It belongs to the one who get it. This is this open field to interpretation, this co-creation, which make our job so beautiful.” I love that any of us can become part of their world and the story of their wine.

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Deep Natural Thoughts

Esencia Rural
(Bodega Ecológica Bruno Ruiz)
De Sol a Sol
Airén 2016
Organic, biodynamic and super natural!
Quero, Toledo, Castilla–La Mancha, Spain
Winemaker: Julián Ruiz Villanueva

Deep orangey gold skin contact pour. Reminds me of Tang (you remember the astronauts drink that Buzz Aldrin hated) or even the color of a Cheez-It. Damn this is deep and heady and that was a short sniff. It’s like a Sherry/Manzanilla vibe…nutty, caramel, golden raisins, dried apricots, and grassy. Now this is an explosion of taste wonderment and I find it absolutely intriguing, but I can see where some might get overwhelmed or not “be that into it” because it is intense. There’s nothing wrong with that but like I always used to tell my friend’s kid when he was little, try something at least 3 times before you make your mind up that it’s not for you. There’s tangy orange fresh and dry with splashes of lemon tart, caramel, brown sugar cookies, honey, and hazelnuts. This is a glass to be savored and contemplated on or shared over good conversation and not a glob-glou. Hangout with this wine, let it grow and let yourself settle into it’s personality and get comfortable with it and maybe have some “Deep Thoughts””.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Oh absolutely not!!!! That was disgusting. Shake it off, shake it off

Julián post school in Madrid, came back with a mission to farm organic and take on the artisan mantle. After trying other produce he turned to the vines in 1998, and has around 50 hectares. De Sol a Sol comes from his favorite “El Almendruco” (4.8 hectares) which was planted by his grandfather. This is the land that produces the indigenous yeasts or bacteriology of the flor. He wants to keep his wines super natural, they’re certified organic, dry-farmed, some are old, ungrafted vines, and he loves to work with the local grapes. You also can’t find chemicals in the vineyard or cellar. De Sol a Sol (From Sun to Sun), Airén 2016, is dedicated to all of the hardworking farmers who work from sun up to sun down, which is just a beautiful thought. Here’s Julián’s own words which I found in Cuvee3000’s video, “Only we, the artisans, can preserve the cultural value of each area: vinifications, grape varieties, simplicity, tradition and so on.” That dedication is good enough for me

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A Lovely Reliable Old Friend

Domaine de La Pinardière
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2019
100% Muscadet (Melon de Bourgogne)
Sustainable agriculture
Vallet, Loire Valley, France
Owner/Winemaker: Christophe Olivier (4th generation of this longstanding wine family)

Shiny golden with a light green hue. Scents of seaside saltiness then open to green apples, a mix of pretty pears, and granite. Sipping in pears, golden delicious apples that when you bite in are juicy and crisp all at once, a minerally lick of a rock, shake (or two) of salt, and a spark of lime zip. So fresh! Exhale and there’s a little salty peatiness in the back of your mouth. Smooth…Oh this is an old friend that stays consistent each time I meet you, and you always make me crave shrimp, langoustines, and oysters…but then when am I not craving those.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: ooh clean and lovely

I first met this wine on a night on my own. Walking home, I passed a bustling oyster bar and noticed the window seat open, and that never happened. My S.O. was living in Switzerland, and I was missing him and decided to treat myself but not break the budget. The sun was dimming, and this little glass transported me to France. It became a stop on evenings when it was still too warm to go home and this glass of muscadet was a delightful partner with a handful of oysters. Tonight, this wine is just the same as it was in the past and all of these memories and emotions come flying back. It’s amazing how time flies, places close, people move…sigh…but so happy to have some things not change.

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Spring on a Wing

Wild Nature Wines
Prosecco Rosé Brut DOC 2019
Millesimato
90% Glera, 10% Pinot Noir
Certified vegan, organic for more than 40 years, and biodynamic
Veneto, Italy
Winemaker: Emilio Fidora

Salmon rose pour with delicate white bubbles. So alive and romantic! Breathing in a salty fizz, laid back strawberries and cherries, light cherry blossoms, red delicious apple peels, and a dreamy breath of Spring. This is a beautiful mouthful of cherries, strawberries, cranberry, and salt. The tingly bubbles also have a spritz of lime, and an apple roundness, a smidge of cinnamon on the back, and as time goes on all of a sudden a cherry jelly belly drops in. It’s a total party!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Makes it even more crisp if that is possible

Wild Nature Wines are essentially that. They have two estates in Veneto (Venice and Verona) where they live in harmony with the all sorts of four-legged and winged neighbors such as owls, foxes, rabbits, and even this regal and funky pheasant on this label. Each wine gets their own unique familiar drawn entwined with the environment and growing as one. I don’t know who the artist (anyone know?) is but they are truly talented. Talent also runs in this family, and innovation. Emilio’s grandfather (Guido), made history bringing on the organic over 40 years ago (Veneto’s oldest organic estate); and then Emilio decided to embark forward in the steps toward biodynamic and now they are certified bio and vegan and living up to their name.

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Rugby Pandamonium

Vinovalie
Les Valeurs Sures
Les Blousons Noirs 2018
100% Malbec
AOP Cahors
Saint Sulpice, France
Wine co-op; Cellar master (for Cahors): Hervé Froment

Inky dark ruby with blue highlights (natural not dyed). After pulling the cork, it’s buttery at first, and then start rolling out of the pour are vanilla, cherries, plums, and a walk around a lush dark velvety forest. Hmmm this is really friendly and enchanting. Sipping and white pepper says “hello”, then dried and dark fresh cherry, blueberries, plum and prunes, and a few blackberries wave back. It’s smooth with a tiny upstart fight, but after a bit there’s a light little brown sugar brittle. This is one scrumptious Malbec.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth lovely sailing

Who out there loves rugby and of course a good scrum? Well, I sure do; and Vinovalie sees their co-op in team terms. As they say, “Vinovalie is all about collective performance. As in rugby, success is in the quality of the pass – through mutual dialogue and shared exchanges”. They draw on everyone’s diverse experience and knowledge to get the best from their lands and vineyards, and work forward to the best in bottle goal (or a try). Les Blousons Noirs is one cool panda sporting a very apropos biker jacket. Rugged on the outside and warm and sweet on the inside. Hey, that sounds like a description of many players I know. All I can say is grab a glass and let’s head to the match!

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Generation to Generation

Domaine Victor Sornin
Beaujolais Lantignié Nature
“Les Monthieux” 2019
100% Chardonnay
Appellation Beaujolais Villages Protégée
Organic, sustainable, hand harvested, native yeasts, and NO OAK in aging
Lantignié (vineyard), Régnié-Durette (winery), Rhône, France
Winemakers: Frédéric Sornin (Domaine Frédéric Sornin) and his son Victor who this cuvée is named after

Light straw yellow. Inhaling crisp apple and pears, orangey bits floating on a fresh clean spring breeze, and clean wet granite. First sip and say hello to crisp and clean apples, then luscious pears, some tartness and tang from a smidgen of orange rind, and a little nectarine. It’s clean and fresh, a splash of salty; and no I haven’t been crying into my wine. There’s something bitter in the end. It’s like biting into rosemary but not the fragrant exhale, but all the fruit comes quickly back. I have to say, thank the Lord there is no oak and you get to embrace the pure chardonnay.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: ooh perfect! More fruity goodness

Frédéric Sornin’s father passed down the estate to him in 1990, and now he has his son Victor learning and working with him, so what better way to honor that than have two cuvées in his son’s name (a red and this white). It truly must be wonderful to watch your offspring grow while working by your side and sharing the same love of the land and creating wine. It’s such a beautiful snapshot of family love, and I bet Frédéric is one proud papa. Oh by the way, they’re also joined in the vines by free roaming sheep that graze and replenish the land, the natural-organic-bio way.

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Rose Dappled Moonlight

Valdinera
Chiaro di Luna Rosé
Langhe DOC
Rosato 2019
100% Nebbiolo
Uncertified organic
Roero (winery), Corneliano d’Alba (CN), Piedmont, Italy
Winemaking Family: Giuseppe “Beppe” Careglio and daughters Pamela and Carol

Delicate salmon color. Breathe in and there’s light Crème de Cassis, shortbread, then all that fades or blends into light dancing cherries and everything keeps circling and eventually chercranstrawberry enters stage right but walking in on tiptoes ever so lightly. First sip and all that tiptoeing stops. Out pops cherries, strawberries, and cranberries. This is just a happy delicious wine full of dance and life.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Not bad. Everything goes deep and dark. It’s like from day to night.

One dad, two daughters and two majestic dogs carry on the winemaking/vineyard history passed down through this family. Their beautiful land of Roero (which is part of a Unesco World Heritage site since 2014) is filled with “Rocche” which were created from erosion and are canyons, chasms, hills that are sheared off, pinnacles, and such that appear through the region. They are incredible geological wonders, and detail the history of this part of the world. Much to my delight you can still find fossils and shells. I can only imagine this place dappled by moonlight or “Chiaro di Luna”.

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A Natural Seduction

Finca Casa Balaguer
Picofino
Monastrell 2019
Red Wine
100% Monastrell
Organic and biodynamic, hand harvested
Villena, Alicante, Spain
Winemaker: Andrés Carull

Deep cherry with spots of blue. Pull out the cork and immediately its creamy scents with cherry, cola, and cinnamon butter cream frosting. Channeling my inner Cookie Monster. Let it be for a bit and it’s earthy along with raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries. Now you’re ready to dive into that sip. There’s tart cherry tang that goes deep and later there’s that tang once again. Now here come the raspberries, some strawberry sweetness, earth, dark chocolate, and a dry woody bit like a pecan hull at the end that with each sip can turn around again to that fruit.Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Smooth and velvet

Finca Casa Balaguer is part of Andrés Carull and Marta Ribera’s small family winery Vinessens, and boy is it all natural. After a surprising encounter with a natural wine during a trip to France in 2008, they were hooked or as they say seduced by its magical power. They only work with local varieties to enhance the true feel and taste of their lands, and keep it biodynamic and organic. And they sum their passion beautifully on their site, “Immerse yourself in a world, from which you have no escape. When you enter the world of natural wines, wines made with nothing but fermented grape juice, no additives and no makeup, you won’t want to escape. There is no way back. We can tell you from experience. The lasting memory of these wines is not stored in the mind, but in the heart.” I do have a question about this wine. Can someone please tell me is the bird with the cute hat on the label a kiwi or what is it? I have a little bet running with a friend, so would love to know.

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A Fresh Fragrant Sunset

La Kiuva
Rosé de Vallée
Picotendro (Nebbiolo), Gros Vien and Neyret
Valle d’Aosta
Hand harvested and all vineyard work by hand
Arnad, Italy
Cooperative winery with 50 grower members

Deep orange rose sunset. Breathing in fresh cool rained on slate, orange blossoms, roses, sweet cherries and their blossoms, and then after a bit…raspberries, and strawberries. Tasting those strawberries, raspberries, and that slate again. It’s so refreshing, clean and bright! Toward the end out pop blackberries with their bitter seeds too. You know like when you pop one in your mouth while picking them in the tangled bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Lord no!

All I have to say is wow, what hard work it must be for this 50 grower co-op. The vines are nestled on high (between 380 and 500 meters above sea level) and steep hills, so everything has to be completely worked by hand. No tractors driving around up here in these vines. As for their lovely Picotendro, it’s a clone of Nebbiolo and as you can see from what I wrote above, it is so wonderfully fragrant. I am going to be so sad when this bottle ends. Adding one thing about the town (commune) of Arnad (which is a breathtakingly beautiful place). They have another gift to the world other than just their wine. Their piggies make the very special Vallée d’Aoste Lard d’Arnad DOP, which is the only lardo to have DOP status that they received in 1996. Local production has been documented to at least the 1500s, and they even have a yearly festival celebration in the last week of August called “Féhta dou lar”. Lardo, wine, cheese, and all sorts of dishes to chow down on…now that’s my type of party!

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A Howling Story of the Land

Ca’ Lojera
Lugana DOC 2019
100% Turbiana
Organic (just not certified) and hand harvested
Rovizza di Sirmione, Brescia, Italy
Owners and winemakers: Ambra and Franco Tiraboschi

Bright yellow with some green shimmer. Reminds me of the colors of my childhood bedroom. For those of you who know me, no, I did not have a goth bedroom. Beautiful scents of pears mixed with yellow apples, white peaches, honeysuckle, honeydew, a salty breeze, and wet granite. Sipping crisp and sweet pears, golden delicious apples, light peach paired with honeydew, and a small squeeze of lemon, maybe even just a wedge on the side of your glass. There’s also that salty bit again, a lick of that clean wet granite, and in the end there’s an oomph of dried sage, thyme and smoke that waves in and out

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Boom this becomes more exotic

Now this is a house with a heritage and local tales. Back in the 13th century, it was a summertime home for the Bishop of Verona, but the more interesting story is told by the locals. Once upon a time, it was a smugglers’ hangout that was guarded by wolves. Can you imagine the intrigue? So when Ambra and Franco decided to purchase the place, Ca’ Lojera (House of the Wolf) was the perfect name. From what I’m finding, they lucked out with these 30 to 40 year old vines and then fell into winemaking when they couldn’t find a buyer for the grapes. Well, seems like a perfect happy accident to me. They certainly have honed their craft over the years, and as they say on their site, “Every day we work to differentiate ourselves, be unique and innovative in our project of producing only wines that tell the story of our land.” Let that wolf keep on creating and belting out that new beautiful part of history for years to come!

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