A Good Heart

Fondazione Villa Russiz
Les Enfants 2017
Venezia Giulia IGT
Bianco
Capriva del Friuli (GO) Italy
Pinot Grigio 50%, 25% Pinot Bianco, 20% Ribolla Gialla and 5% Sauvignon Blanc
Sustainable farming

A glistening pale gold glass. There’s nose tingling melon, pear, clean salty air, a touch of musky, and citrus/a little grapefruit. Lovely tastes of peaches, pear, sweet apples, honey, and it’s creamy with a mineral/slatey end.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: less creamy and a bit of citrus tart

This is a wine with a good heart that gives back. In 1868, the French Count Theodor de la Tour married Austrian Countess Elvine Ritter de Zàhony and her father gifted them his estate in Russiz (in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region). Theodor saw the potential for a vineyard and set off to work bringing in French cuttings which were also rumored to be in bouquets of flowers he would bring Elvine. She had other aspirations, and founded a school for girls who were often left behind since elementary school was only for boys. She also championed care for homeless and orphaned young girls too. WWI came about and Villa Russiz was turned into a military hospital, and sadly Elvine passed away. Another Countess who happened to be a nurse in the hospital picked up where she left off. Countess Adele Cerruti not only continued but expanded her work with taking on reconstructing the Villa post war. Currently Fondazione Villa Russiz houses “the Casa Elvine” Group Home that takes in minors and fills all their needs from having a computer lab, a clinic, a kitchen on each floor, and gives them the feeling of a true secure home environment. All of this is funded by sales of their wines. Not going to lie, I’m tearing up a little learning about this wonderful place.

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We Could All Use a Heroine (or a Sidekick) Right Now

Iconic Wines
Sidekick 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon
Lodi, California
Sustainable farming
Winemaker: Birk O’Halloran

Deep ruby shine. Inhaling cherry and dried cherries, plum and prune, flowers, and of all things pine sap like the same smell from the small forest near my grandparents home. There’s a deep richness and some smoke. Wow, first sip and it packs a delicious punch! There’s deep sweet cherries, dark plums, raspberries and blackberries. It has some rustic earthiness, then juicy, and here comes the velvet, and at last a small touch of licorice. Fabulous!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: dried fruit explosion

Iconic Wines was started by Birk O’Halloran and Karl Antle (college buddies), and according to their website, Birk made his career by “drinking his way up the supply chain.” Honestly from what I’m also seeing, he did this with a lot of hard work and picked up influence both from California and European styles. They have two lines, Heros and Sidekicks. Sidekicks are the best bang for your buck. Made from locally sourced grapes from different vineyards that they rely and trust. I can vouch for this reasonably priced wine. If I didn’t know the original sticker, I would have thought it was a lot more $$. On top of such a fab wine, just check out their labels by artist Cliff Chiang. He’s known for working with Lucasfilm, DC Comics, GQ Magazine, ACLU, etc, and very importantly his and Brian K. Vaughan’s comic book series “Paper Girls” which has been green-lit on 7/23/20, by Amazon for a television adaption (exciting!). In short, the wine and the labels are totally kick ass.

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A Gift Through Generations

Fattoria San Lorenzo
…di Gino… 2018
Le Marche Region
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC
Montecarotto, Ancona, Italy
100% Verdicchio
Organic and biodynamic, and 6 months on the lees
Winemaker and owner: Natalino Crognaletti

Put a ring on it golden with an orange tinge. Crisp pops of tangerine, a little salt, pears, and dried apricots; all on the tip of my nose. It tastes a lot like it smells with the pear, citrus and smokey salt with addition of crisp apples; and as it warms up peaches and honey. Oh this is so lovely. It’s like when you get a new book from your favorite author (mine is Martin Walker), and as you turn the pages and get further in it just keeps getting better and better.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes all the flavors more bold

Natalino Crognaletti has a wonderful way of choosing names for his wines. “…di Gino…” is named in honor of his father who passed down the farm/winery to him. Others are for a dog, hares, the sun, and what I thought was maybe another word than “gattina” for kitten due to the image on the bottle, but as I searched, I discovered “La Gattara” pretty much means “cat lady”. Ah, “cat lady” a moniker I know well. Maybe this should be the next one I try. I digress. Back to “…di Gino…” which is made from the local Verdicchio clones that Gino selected for the vineyard after it was handed down to him from his father Enrico. This beautiful land is in the province of Ancona which is known for their towns of medieval fortresses. The town Montecarotto is one of these romantic medieval towns but it also has other more modern cultural interests. Their MAM Museo d’arte Moderna e Mail Art appears to be the only public mail art museum in Italy. A recent exhibition called “Le Disobbedienti” which is a tribute to Artemisia Gentileschi, Frida Kahlo, Charlotte Salomon, Berthe Morisot, Suzanne Valadon and Elisabeth Vigèe Le Brun; that included work from 150 artists from all over the world. Would have loved to have seen it in person.

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Flower Freedom

Casal de Ventozela
Contatto 2019
Vinho Verde Region
Minho, Portugal
Avesso 100%
Sustainable farming, skin contact
Winemakers: Fernando Moura and Pedro Campos

Deep gold orange glass. A mixed bouquet of flowers, natural funk that fades really fast, orange peel, candied apple, and salt. It’s light but let it warm a bit and there’s something tawny and nutty. It’s a fresh mouthful with tart light orange and Orangina, apples, peaches, and dry.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: very sweet orange

Casal de Ventozela has a history back to at least 1874, but changed hands in 1978, to José Ferreira Cortinhas. Portugal was still coming back post the Carnation Revolution, which I’m finding incredibly fascinating. Celeste Caeiro is proof that any of us can play a major role in history. She was the Lisbon restaurant worker and pacifist, that started the symbol of this movement. Due to all the military activity, the restaurant where she worked closed for the day, and gave her all the carnations they were going to pass out to customers. She decided to give the flowers to the tanks and soldiers. This one beautiful act spread and others started passing them out and here you have a mostly peaceful culmination of a revolution. Yes, more had to be politically dealt with in the following days and years, and 4 people died on April 25, 1974, but a democracy was on its way.

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Magical Mixture

Bràulio
Amaro Alpino
Lombardy Region
Bormio, Italy
Invented by pharmacist Francesco Peloni
Rested in Slavonian oak barrels
Acquired at D.O.C. Wine Bar after an amazing dinner outside

Served neat. Dark amber more reddish brown color. Take a deep breath in and it’s all sorts of herbs, piney, juniper berries, orange peel, cloves, and the whole forest floor with a touch of briney. Going in for the sip and it’s sweet and bitter at same time. Also tastes just like all of the above listed for scents. It’s better than a ricola and much more healthy. This will cure what ails ya!

Thank you Francesco Peloni for being so into herbs and creating this robust concoction back in 1875. From what I’m reading some of the herbs, plants and berries still used in this magical mixture are gathered on Monte Bràulio in Stelvio National Park, and are dried in the crisp mountain air and then ground before being added to the alcohol. Post mixture they hang out in stainless steel tanks for a few weeks and near the end some mountain water is added. I can’t imagine how strong that must smell. After extraction here’s where the Slavonian oak barrels come in. 15 months later, you have the perfect “secret” recipe and masterpiece.

Oh and obviously, no “Pairs with Cheez-It’s” since I was dining out, but I can pretty much guarantee it would be a big fat NO!

Cheers!

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Respecting the Land of Stars

Domaine Mittnacht Frères
Terres d’ étoiles 2018
Pinot Blanc
40% Pinot Blanc, 60% Pinot Auxerrois
Alsace Region
Hunawihr, France
Organic, biodynamic, indigenous yeast
Winemaker: Christophe Mittnacht

Pale very chilled gold. Tickling my nose are dainty flowers, lemon and lime/citrus, a touch of salt, yellow fruity and it’s fresh and clean. Tilt back the glass and there’s lemon, pears, honey, a smidge of salt, yellow plums, and Froot Loops minus the milk. Keep on drinking it grows more juicy/fruity and even a touch of peach the more it warms.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: a little less lemon but it really doesn’t change the flavors that much

I know I’ve been writing a lot about whether a vineyard/farm is sustainable, organic, biodynamic, etc. Well, it is so important to many of the winemakers I’ve been writing about and it should be to you too for a multitude of reasons. For Christophe Mittnacht and his wife Yuka it is no different, but they were in the forefront of it in Alsace. They were certified organic in 1999, and biodynamic in 2013. They believe in respect the vineyard and therefore respect the consumer. Everything has minimal intervention but when there are times the vines need a little extra help with defending itself from natural enemies, they may be sprayed with nettle tea and other willow and horsetail remedies.

Hunawihr (what a cool name) is also a member of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”, and yes, it is one of the most beautiful villages in France. Their famous fortified church overlooks Domaine’s vineyards, and looks like it’s still existing in an older time when life was lived at a happier, slower pace. I feel like you can just smell the fresh cool air.

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Always Read the Instruction Manual

Viña Echeverría
Es Pituko
Chardonnay 2018
Curicó Valley, Molina, Chile
Sustainable, aged 15 months in French barrels
Chief Winemaker: Roberto Echeverría Jr.

Golden drop of sunshine with some sediment hanging around. Inhaling melon, mango, apples, and some light oak. As time goes by becomes deeper and richer. This is another one that says to drink in the next 5 minutes so here goes…melon, pear, a little orange acidic twang, and something rich and creamy. There’s even a kick of grass.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: whoa massive creamy oakiness and not sure how I feel about it. I’m on the fence.

The more I learn, and the more I taste… I find more natural winemakers putting instruction manuals on their back label art. Like with this one and last week’s “Es Pituko, Cabernet Franc 2019”, you’re instructed how much to chill, give it a shake before you pour because it’s natural like that, and how fast to drink. My advice, always take a look at the back, or you might miss out on the true way the wine is supposed to taste. The next red you pick up, could be one that might be screaming to go in the fridge.

While I pour another glass of this “Fancy” Chardonnay, here’s another one from Cerys Matthews.

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Where The Wild Roses Grow

Bodega Benito Santos
Mencía 2017
Ribeira Sacra
100% Mencía
Galicia, Spain
Vineyards in DO Monterrei (according to the label and website)
Winery in Ribeira Sacra DO
Sustainable farming

A beautiful shining garnet glass. At first there’s a buttery start that eases into scents of berries. Next are flowers that turn into roses. Reminds me of my mom’s rose garden. She had an array of types, colors, and some antique wild ones. It was planted on a small incline in a horseshoe shape so you could enjoy it just surrounding you and breathe in all the fragrances. One last thing on the tip of my nose is light smoke. Sipping tart and smooth black cherries, strawberries, blackberries, even maybe blueberries and still drinking roses. There’s a dark spice finish yet it’s still light and lively. Delicious elegance.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: juicy cherry and pop of roses

Here’s a little history on the winery’s founder, Benito Santos…he started out working in his grandfather’s vineyards back in the 30’s and became a huge backer of the region’s Albariño. Over the years of hard work, great achievements and awards, he became a member of the Specific Regulatory Council of Rias Baixas (1981). By 1988, he greatly helped in the creation of Rias Baixas D.O. That’s a pretty historic accomplishment. Now Bodega Benito Santos has been passed on to successors, land has expanded and other grapes have been added such as the Benito Santos Mencía from this lovely wine. All the roses that kept blooming from this bottle took my thoughts to my personal favorite rose tune, by Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds ft. Kylie Minogue.

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Old World Meets New

Viña Echeverría
Es Pituko
Cabernet Franc 2019
Curicó Valley, Molina, Chile
Sustainable, aged 11 months in French barrels
Chief Winemaker: Roberto Echeverría Jr.

Murky rosy ruby with nice sediment. From out of the cloud comes whiffs of strawberries, raspberries, cherries, blueberries, and something toasty. Btw this is a chilled red and as recommended on the label, drink in the next 5 minutes, so let’s see what comes out first…strawberries, tart cherry tart, and all of the above but the toast. There’s dark stony finish, and a little oak and smoke. Also “Es Pituko” means “It’s Fancy!”, so where’s my bow tie? This is going to be a top notch night.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: fruit goes crazy

I feel like I’m drinking a bit of history from all over the world. Echeverría family roots started in the Basque region of Spain, then they transplanted themselves to Chile in the 1750s. 200 years later a taste of France (and pre-phylloxera French vines) was brought to the town of Molina by Roger Piffre de Vauban coming to Curicó Valley. As time went by and their families blended through marriage, offspring, and two wineries. Next Roberto Echeverría brought in a splash of the U.S. through his studies at Cornell and degrees in agronomy, winemaking, and economics; and living and working for a while in D.C. for the World Bank. Feeling the pull and seeing the great possibilities, they returned to Chile and rebuilt and revitalized the family winery. Now Roberto’s sons and daughters are the latest generation that are hands on and just as passionate about the land, their wines, keeping it sustainable, and keeping it natural.

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A Liquid Postcard

Cantine Chessa
C’era Una Volta 2017
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC
Usini, Sardegna, Italy
100% Vermentino
Sustainable farming, indigenous yeasts
Winemaker: Giovanna Chessa

Deep gold skin-contact orangey. Breathing in honey and honeysuckles, smoke, melon, pear, and hazelnut. This is definitely an invitation to an enchanted evening of wonder. Tasting and again honey, smoke/a touch of oak, melon, and ripe pear. There’s also something mineral that I believe is white pepper. This is glorious! We need a choir hallelujah here!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bright melon and pear and lighter honey

Giovanna Chessa has woven a delightful dream with “C’era Una Volta” which translates to “Once Upon a Time”. She is truly such an amazing winemaker. Loving the four day skin-contact and also that she lets the spontaneous indigenous yeasts work their magic at first in stainless steel and then later in used French barrels, so it lets the grapes sing. Or as Giovanna says, “The bottle is a liquid postcard” that can transport you to Sardegna, and learn the history of the land, the grapes and her story. Also the label captures the beauty and fairytale of this wine. It even won a silver medal at the MUSE Design Awards for Redfish Adv and Sara Pilloni. If you’re inspired and want to find out more about Sara’s art, check it out here.

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