“It Is Simply Cultural”

Azienda Biologica Bio Vio
U Bastio 2021
Rossese 100%
Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC
Organic
Bastia d’Albenga, Liguria, Italy
Aimone Giobatta Vio & family (Mom: Chiara; Daughters: Caterina, Camilla, Carolina)

Ruby stained glass. Breathing in bouncing raspstrawblueberries (and maybe a few others in the mix), twist of cherry, lemon & orange zest, and a pinch of light earth & cool slate. All I’ve been sniffing are there in the sip that wakes up my mouth & puts a smile on my face. There’s also blackberries (seeds & all), a little chew of wild sour grass from childhood that has kind of a rhubarb vibe too, light earth turns into a savory & pinch of peppery pixie dust including that slate, a tangle of wild herbs that you really don’t need to think about unless you want to dissect like me (marjoram, oregano, and savory) and orange zest

Pairs with Cheez-Its: I think I like it…still making up my mind…but you know what it pairs lovely with Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam

Bio Bio is so much more than just a winery. It’s about family, respect, traditions, the Ligurian way of life, and more. As they say, “Growing organically is neither a technical nor an economic choice: it is simply cultural .” For generations they’ve farmed carciofo spinoso di Albenga, herbs, Taggiasca olives, Brussel sprouts, other leafy vegs, and of course native grapes; and you can experience it all in person by booking a stay at one of their Pigato Biovio Farmhouse apartments. From there you can investigate all they & Albenga have to offer. Later join them in their OrtOsteria René where you’ll find local & home grown seasonal delights (BTW Orto = home vegetable garden) created by Chef Carolina (youngest of the 3 daughters) who interprets recipes passed down from her mom, nonna e nonno. Check out their IG (tagged in pic) and it will have you checking your calendar & booking a reservation as fast as you can. I’m already dreaming of their Farfalle di castagna, funghi porcini, rape dell’orto and another glass of wine. 🍄‍🟫🌰❤️🍷

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Tingly Tastebud Vibrations

Dio Cocktails
Turmeric Ginger Lemon Mule
Super Natural
13.5% ABV
Based out of NY, NY
Made in Athens, GA
Co-founders: Bronson van Wyck & Nick Bradley

Lovely pour of yellow with a green splash & bubbles. Sniff and there’s turmeric, ginger, sugar cane, lemon, a whiff of white pepper, and a salty breeze. Sipping and wow that is quite a delicious explosion and it’s all there from the sniff with more crisp lemon & zest, a teeny shave of orange, a peppery vibe that grows & a shake of salt. Awesome tingly tastebud vibrations, or as they say “A double dose of spirit with a splash of sin”.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: bleh

Two men of international intrigue…one with a flair for getting the party started & the other with expertise in getting a brand launched (both originally Southerners btw) paired to make intriguing classic & inventive cocktails with a nod to mythology, gods, other worldly pleasures. Dionysus would be totally impressed with these men and their lively libations, since “DIo  is crafted from the world’s finest, all-natural ingredients, offering modern twists on classic cocktails from around the world. Divinely distilled from Herculean-strength spirits, our luxurious libations are sweetened sinlessly . . . so you don’t have to be.”

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Lingering Over The Last Glass

Domaine de La Taille aux Loups (Jacky et J.P. Blot)
Brut Tradition
100% Chenin Blanc
Certified organic, indigenous yeasts, no sugar, hand harvested
Montlouis-sur-Loire, France
Jean-Phillipe Blot

Golden shine with fine bubbles. Sniff and up floats a little croissant or toasty pastry, a zesty bit of lime, lemon cream pie, as it grows there’s also an apple blossom or 2, apple/pear baked, and a scratch of tangelo zest. Sipping…it’s tickling & tingling on my tongue with all of the scents, a crisp & bright clean mineral/stainless elegance, lemon & lime keep dancing but more than just zest with a smidge of kumquat, and on the very back a bit of poached pear or actually maybe quince…yeah, it’s quince. It’s a glass of pure celebration.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t

Many years ago Jean-Phillipe joined his father in winemaking at the age of 16, and now he is at the helm after his father’s passing in 2023. I never had an opportunity to meet him but through this bottle I think I have a glimpse into his dream. Found out that earlier in his life he was a paratrooper, and thanks to his brother was turned on to wine which led to being a wine broker and then his curiosity and passion led him to become a winemaker. In the late 80s, he picked up 8 ha in Montlouis-sur-Loire (Domaine de La Taille aux Loups) and focused not on Vouvray but Chenin Blanc. There were ups and downs but his resilience and determination paid off. He became an acclaimed winemaker, one of the finest in Loire, and a champion of Chenin Blanc. As brilliant of a wine figure he was, there are so many words people use to describe him in tribute..he’s generous, friendly, welcoming, so very kind, wanting to share his knowledge & joy of tastings, and he was so loved by so many. I’m down to my last glass, savouring it and raising it as a salute to Jacky & also J.P. as he carries on the traditions. 🥂

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“Friendship Is A Slow Ripening Fruit”

Supergay Spirits
Two Fruits
Cosmo
Sustainably sourced & packaged
12.5% ABV
Based in Brooklyn, NY
Distillery in PA

Hazy pink grapefruit pour. At first there’s fragrant scents of pink/orange jelly beans that grow into a natural fruit blend of nectarines, orange/citrus sparkle, and light cranberry with a lime squeeze. Such an easy sipper & tasting nectarine, cranberry, an orange/lime/kumquat (spelling) swirl with their zest singed & twisted in the edge, a small reminder of chewing sugar cane as a kid on holidays…but not too sweet & just dry enough on the back. FYI one can holds two cocktails, so beware of cocktail goggles, or you know…just go with it and see what present you end up unwrapping. 🎁

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t.

Two Fruits is Supergay Spirits’ line of cocktails but it’s more than that. They care about sustainability in all aspects of their production, less waste (recycle it!), and work with local producers (when available) like in this can with their Supergay Vodka (Yonkers, NY) & Heimat Nectarine Liqueur (Hudson Valley, NY). Another thing to add about Supergay is they “only use 100% organic and ethically sourced”ingredients in their spirits, and are “queer owned and operated and we donate a percentage of profits to local LGBTQI+ organizations.” That’s a big plus for me. Another plus is Two Fruits was founded by friends…who doesn’t need supportive friends who you can share your dreams & drinks. As they say on their site in a quote attributed to Aristotle, “Friendship is a slow ripening fruit.” ❤️🏳️‍🌈

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Imagine Better

Gérald Vallée
Mercies-Vallée
La Closerie Imaginaire 2023
Sauvignon Blanc
Touraine AOC
Organic (Ecocert certified now), hand picked
Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Gérald Vallée & family

Light shimmering gold. Scents start popping out of lemon, lime, tangerine, grapefruit, kumquat, Valencia oranges along with orange blossoms, mineral river rocks, and an old favorite of Orangina. Sipping and there’s a good squeeze of the scents including the rock, pineapple, little scrape of mango with green apples & pears, and a blade of grass.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Easy as pie

Gérald Vallée’s father Claude passed along the love and devotion for their vines (Domaine de la Cotelleraie) and when he took over in 1997, he realized to move forward with his wines, he had to focus more. They had for years cultivated their grapes along with other farming, but he would be the 1st generation to be “devoted itself solely to wine.” This led him toward heading to the organic side in 1999, growing not only in ha but also together in rhythms, setting up “rigorous work schedule of plowing, digging, hoeing and treatment with sulfur or copper from spring to avoid the use of chemical weedkillers, fertilizers and other pesticides”. Well, obviously it has paid off. He’s known & acclaimed for his cabernet francs, so was a bit of a delightful surprise to see this sauvignon blanc that even on the label calls for us to imagine something better for the world…to follow him to a better way of wine life through nature. Oops now I have that classic John Lennon song stuck in my head, so I’m passing this earwig on to you. 

“You may say I’m a dreamer
But I’m not the only one
I hope someday you’ll join us
And the world will live as one”

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Let Them Speak & Listen

Dönnhoff Estate
Riesling Trocken 2023
Oberhäusen, Nahe, Germany
Dönnhoff family: Cornelius Dönnhoff (current & 4th generation)

Twinkle twinkle little light yellow green star. Sniffing pears, lemon, mild apples, honeydew, a slightly musky mango, as it grows Valencia orange with a clean stainless smell, roses and a few other flowers that make you smile. All of the scents are there in the elixir rolling around on my tongue, but the mango is oh so clean with a dry lime zest/citrus sizzle that crisps more the further back and makes me crave west coast oysters….actually the more I taste…I’d prefer warm very crisp thin bacon and as time goes by maybe even a sourdough BLT.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so lovely and gentle

The Dönnhoffs’ heritage in Oberhausen an der Nahe is well over 250 years with the earliest mention of vines in 1761. Cornelius’s great grandfather Hermann paved the way for their winery and lands as they are now with his first wines back in 1920s. As one would expect they grew but only just enough so they could devote their time and space to care for them properly. As they say “The vineyards speak for themselves. You have to listen to them.” and if you pay attention they will give you the best wine. ❤️

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Do I Need A Decoder Ring?

Fabien Jouves
H@*T€ Côt de Fruit 2023
100% Malbec
Organic
Cahors, France
Winemaker: The man, the legend…FJ

Deep purple with a maroon rim. Breathing in cherry, blackberry, dark plums, a drop of blueberry that swirls into boysenberries, touch of vanilla followed by warm holiday spice, and an earthy depth but not poop wine (you know what I’m talking about). Sipping bright cherry, raspberry, young strawberry, red & black currants, sprig of wild sour grass, rhubarb, and as it breathes there’s more layers that keep emerging so enjoy the ride.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NON NON NON

Let me just simply say, I love Fabien Jouves’ wines. He’s a master of Malbec (Côt), cares more about keeping it biodynamic/natural than following the wine rules, and has a way with words…especially on his labels such as “Soif d’Ailleurs” (translates to “Thirst for Elsewhere”), “You F&@K My Wine ?!”, and “Haute Côt(e) de Fruit” taking a jab at “Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuit”. Leads me to wonder why this one is spelled a bit differently “H@*T€ Côt de Fruit”. I’ve searched, asked & had some answers about labeling, but so far the spelling is still a mystery. If you’re still reading at this point, and have any inkling as to this moniker…please satisfy my curiosity by revealing the secret. Do I need a decoder ring? 🤔 Whatever the reasoning, I hope he keeps them coming because oh do they make me smile.

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This Is Not My Grandfather’s Wine

Terra di Seta
480 slm 2018
Chianti Classico DOCG
Sangiovese 95%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%
Organic, Kosher, sustainable agriculture
Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Tuscany, Italy
Daniele Della Seta (husband) & Maria Pellegrini (wife)

Ruby stained glass. Scents float up of plums, prunes, dried & fresh cherries, raisins, smooth & expressive violets, a classic bit of leather book binding with a dash of tobacco that morphs into crunchy raspberries & smoke, and a dash of cloves, fennel, warm spice/pepper blend. All of the scents are in the taste along with dried figs, pomegranate, red currants, dark olives, fennel, and a modern light gentle dry dance that echos classical footsteps.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: a good bitter dried fruit richness

Must be wonderful to work side by side with the one you love, and also love your work. Maria’s from a winemaking family while Daniele’s background is in biology and from what I’ve found they both have their hands in every aspect of their organic farm, winery & wine tourism farmhouse “Le Macie” that looks like a place you would never want to leave (there’s an infinity pool & some of the apts have AC!). They also are “the only winery in Italy whose entire wine production, from its grapes – since 2008 – is supervised by strict Kosher certification”. Long ago when I was a kid, the only Kosher wine that my grandfather used to pick up to have with the holiday fruitcake was let’s say a certain Concord grape concoction that I bet many of you had the same reaction to it as I did 🤮. I can happily say “Terra di Seta” is definitely not my grandparents wine…it’s heavenly.

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Take Time To Smell The Roses Or Better Yet The Wine

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni
Felice Modica
Filinona 2020
Nero d’Avola
Eloro DOC
Noto (SR), Sicily, Italy
Modica family

Deep dark garnet. There’s scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, an Oreo cream center that eases off and fades, bell pepper, dates, dried figs, and as it opens a rich tapestry of them all with sage & rosemary woven in with the rest. Sipping away and again cherries & plums along with raspberries, blackberries, cranberry, pomegranate, a reminder of an apple tree twig I’ve whittled and chewed on as a kid, twinge of bell pepper, dark olives, and a little bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just lush

For over 200 years the Modica family has farmed their lands (300+ ha) and tended to their olive & almond trees, citrus fruit, and their vineyards. Their wine “Filinona” is a nod to the beauty of the Sicilian language (recognized as a minority language by UNESCO) and of their tradition of a “siesta” or a daily time to rest in the while the sun is at its hottest. Honestly, I would love if we had that tradition here where it’s so easy to get caught up in work and not take time to stop and smell the roses or better yet a time to relax with a little wine. Maybe that is reason the Modica family are so productive with their wine, olive oil, beer “Passo di miele”, and as I discovered their Palazzo Modica. What a breathtaking historical place which over time has adapted in size and use due to the needs or wishes of the generations. While there still is a section that is private residence, there is also a more public side with a restaurant/pizzeria, a museum, event space, and now you can book a room to sleep in a blend of modern & antique luxury and for some a terrace with beautiful views of Noto. I can hardly think of anything more romantic than relaxing there under the twinkling stars raising a glass to history.

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Family Expansions

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nerello Mascalese  
Terre Siciliane IGT
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Shiny garnet glass. Scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, pinch of vanilla that grows into dried figs & maybe dates too, touch of tomato leaves that turns into a smidge of drying tobacco leaves with a little smoke. Tasting again all sorts of cherries tart, tangy, fresh, dark & deep plums, young strawberries, raspberries, blackberries (seeds & all for that bite), and dried cranberries. It’s like a pinball bouncing around in the machine hitting flavors as it goes and it’s bright & fresh with a dryness on the back.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. You can do it like me from home on quite a few times now, or you can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. Come to think of it out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Ah man, decisions…decisions…what am I to do? Hop a plane or find a way to get one to fly to me. 🥂✈️

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