Basking in the Sun

Cascina degli Ulivi
Semplicemente
Bellotti Bianco, 2019
Cortese 100%
Piedmont Italy
Biodynamic and organic

A glass of spun gold…breath in and embrace the orange, lemons, and maybe a touch of rosemary. Sip and there’s apples, peaches, lemon, some tangerine tart tingle, and a bit of mineral. It’s a fun friendly wine that asks you to take it out on a boat and bask in the sun.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: brings out the lemon and adds some smoke. Very smooth.

Side note: This weekend, I’ll have to revisit Jonathan Nossiter’s Natural Resistance to reflect back on Stefano Belloti’s life and how while he was here on this earth, broke the rules and championed the natural ways. Louis Dressner Selections has a lovely post honoring him and an interview with Belloti from 2011.

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Honeysuckle Love

Cantina Su’entu
Su’aro 2018
Bianco blend of native grapes
Marmilla IGT
Sardegna Italy

A bright bold glass of gold. At first whiff there’s citrus, like tangerine and lemon with a splash of grapefruit. As it goes on, out comes hibiscus, honeysuckle,  rich melon, apricot, a dash of salt, and just deep beautiful flowers…whew that’s a lot and we haven’t even had a first sip. Here we go! Luscious melon and honey and all sorts flowers, a little orange peel tang, and a nice touch of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: makes the honeysuckle and melon go wild. Where’s the prosciutto?

Here’s another bit of smooth sweetness with Sarah Vaughan, Honeysuckle Rose

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More to Love

Cacique Maravilla
Pipeno Pais 2019
100% Pais
Bio Bio
Yumbel Chile
Organic, biodynamic and vegan friendly
Winemaker Manuel Moraga Gutiérrez

First thing you should do with this red, is slightly chill it. Yes, you heard me, cool it a little. Pour and there’s a deep dark ruby that you can’t see through. First sniff and I’ll let this breathe a little more, so I’ll play with the cats while I wait. Earthiness lingers and opens to plums, blueberries, cherries, and some little salt/mineral. Here goes the first sip, and it’s tart, cherry, and out comes some orange, and wait for it…dark plums appear. It’s lush, delicious, and then there’s a hint of cinnamon, a little pepper, and I do believe a little smoke. I’m in love, and there’s more to love with this bottle. It’s a whole liter.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: mellow goodness cherry plummy

Cacique Maravilla, located in Yumbel, Chile, is helmed by Manuel Moraga Gutiérrez and his amazing mustache. Seriously, it’s a work of art. Back to the winery, from what I find online, the Gutiérrez family has had long ties to Yumbel which stretches back seven generations when Francisco Gutiérrez decided to settled down. Also his nickname is the winery’s namesake, which means Magnificent Chief. The vineyard is dry farmed, and is gifted with rich trumao/volcanic ash soil. There is no intervention and minimal pruning. As for the winemaking, it’s all natural too. It’s made with natural yeasts from the grapes and no filtration. What a beautiful and wild land. There’s a wonderful gallery on their website showing snapshots of the vineyard. There’s sheep wandering in the vines, glistening bunches of grapes and then them being crushed, and what looks like a delicious celebratory barbecue. Oh this is making me hungry, and wishing I had another liter for today.

On to the Bio Bio region…outside of Los Ángeles is the Laguna del Laja National Park where you can find the Antuco Volcano and Laguna del Laja. From what I’m reading the Laguna is a beautiful emerald green and has debris from past eruptions throughout the shoreline. Evidently, you can also go salmon fishing here. The park is also great for birding. Some of the multitude of feathered friends include Bandurria, Condors, and the Rufous-bellied seedsnipe. Other wildlife include pumas, foxes, and my personal favorite the Vizcacha.  The snow capped volcano looming in the background is technically still active but no major eruptions for eons. Back in April 2013, a pilot logged that he saw ash emissions, but after further investigation the VAAC attributed it to a wildfire.

Next we stop off in Concepción to visit the Casa del Arte José Clemente Orozco, located at the University of Concepción. My particular interest is in the mural by Jorge González Camarena. In 1960, Chile had the massive and devestating Valdivia earthquake which was on a scale of 9.4 to 9.6. Mexico reached out to assist the Chilean government on rebuilding (which included rebuilding Casa del Arte) and this is how the Mexican artist, González Camarena, became inspired to become involved. From 1964-1965, he worked on the mural “La Presencia de América Latina” which depicts the history of Latin America with all it’s triumphs, trials, beauty and at times death. Above the mural is a quote by Pablo Neruda, “Y no hay belleza como esta belleza de América extendida en sus infiernos / en sus cerros de piedra y poderío, en sus ríos atávicos y eternos” translation: “There is no beauty like the beauty of America spread out in its hells / in its mountains of rock and power, in its atavistic and eternal rivers”. From just seeing the stills and video, I can feel the intensity and overwhelming emotion of this mural. I can just imagine how powerful it would be to stand before it.

Back to Yumbel and their deep tradition of the Feast of San Sebastian which is celebrated on both January 20th and March 20th. Thousands gather from near and far to visit the San Sebastián Sanctuary, participate in the procession (some on their feet and others on their knees), and light candles. This March’s was cancelled due to covid, but from what I’m seeing in 2016 there were 500,000 that made the pilgrimage. Now that’s passion.

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A Little Friulano Slang

Borgo Savaian di Bastiani Stefano
Aransat 2019
Friuli Orange Wine
Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc
Cormons Italy

Color is gold like a bar from Fort Knox. Let it breathe a little before the whiff. There’s dark tangerine or grapefruit peels (that have been flamed), orange blossoms, and wet concrete after a cleansing rain, and wait…a hint of pine needles. Swish and swirl and take the first sip. Again there’s orange blossoms and now flamed orange peel. It’s heady, and then takes my memories back to an orange jolly candy from my childhood. I think there’s also a bit of kumquat, definitely salt, and some granite. This is a beautiful clean wine. Oh and the more you know: Aransat is Friuli slang for orange.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes it oh so sweet gold. Brings out the orange oil. Burn that peel!

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A Glass of Stars

Papras Bio Winery
Pleiades 2019 (Orange Wine)
Roditis 100%
PGI Tyrnavos Greece
Biodynamic  and wild yeasts

A glass of orangey gold that is sparkling like the stars they’re named after. Breathe in orange peel, grapefruit, salt, orange blossoms, and floral. As it spends time opening white pepper smokiness appears. I’m feeling something of a beer here. Let’s give this a sip…orange, tangerine, grapefruit, and pineapple. Wow that’s a lot of fruit, yet dry. There’s also lovely smoke, spice, salt and oh so tart. Let it hang out for a while and you can taste orange blossoms and there’s that white pepper again. A beautiful spot-on orange wine. Also if you like Gose beer like I do, you’ll love this wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Mellows out the tart yet it’s still lurking somewhat there.

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Follow the Duck

Joao Pato aka Duckman
BaaagaDuck 2018
Vinho Tinto
Portugal
Baga 85%, Touriga Nacional 15%
Winemaker Maria Pato

Beautiful dark ruby color. Starts off with a whiff of butter and then herbal cola (like ricola), salt, dried cherries, plum, a touch of white peppercorn, and at last wild flowers. Shall I sip or take a long swig? I will admit, this is not my first duck, and I am a big fan! Here comes the deep dark cherry, flowers, some smoke, and dried fruit and a bit of spice that I’m trying to figure out.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Mellows it out. Rich and concentrated. 

Baby this is smooth like Barry White. I feel like snuggling up in front of a fireplace with a glass and letting this wine and his voice wrap me like a warm embrace. 

So who is this mysterious Duckman? Maria Pato helms this project, and she comes from quite a prestigious wine family. The vines are in her genes. Her family has been in wine since at least the 18th century. Maria, along with her father Luis Pato, (and well known Baga champion) and her sister Filipa (who I have written about previously) all focus on Bairrada’s native grapes. Maria though leaves off the region on her labels and lets the grapes to speak for themselves. Ok, this is a family I wish would adopt me. I’m more than willing to learn Portuguese, and help out with any vineyard/winery tasks needed. How amazing to have such a long heritage in wine, and to steadfastly stick with it and each other.

On to Bairrada…The Buçaco Forest, encircled by a protective wall, is an enchanting fairyland filled with lush and diverse trees, shrubs, plants and animals from the region. In the 1600s Carmelite monks, by Papal decree, sent to tend to the forest,  began introducing “exotics” including cedar from Mexico. Oh, and during that time, women were forbidden from the forest, so the monks would not be distracted (seriously?!), and not long after that a threat of excommunication was posted if anyone did harm to any of the trees. There’s paths and staircases to lead you through, and hopefully help you from getting lost in this wonderland. You can still see what is left of the convent and the Via Crucis, which are now on the grounds of the Buçaco Palace. The Convento de Santa Cruz do Buçaco also contains the famed Nossa Senhora do Leite (Our Lady of the Milk) by Josefa de Óbidos (from what I’m reading she is potentially Portugal’s first female painter and her works were very well received). Visitors leave behind wax breasts, in hope that Mary will find them some divine intervention. For a view into the architecture and the forest, here’s a calming video by Michael Levit, that I found on youtube. On to the next stop. I keep seeing posts and info that the spas in Luso are a must see. The water from the area is supposed to be some of the best in the world, and there’s a fountain in town where people can fill up their own bottles. The thermal baths were founded in the 1800s, and used for various curative reasons, but now you can find modern spas such as Termas de Luso, where you can either just relax or work on your health in a beautiful setting. One last thing, I truly wish I could experience in person, is to visit the Pato winery in Amoreira da Gândara. It is by appointment only, but they have an option for a regional lunch paired with their wines, and Bairrada’s roast suckling pig. Now that would be a perfect day.

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Deep Velvet

Cantina Tondini
Taroni 2016
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 
Calangianus Sassari Sardegna Italy
Cagnulari 20%, Cannonau 20%, Carignano 20%, Nebbiolo 20%, Sangiovese 20%

Holding up my glass next to the window, and the color is deep shining ruby. Swirl and sniff…pine and cedar syrup, then smoke, cherries, prunes, cola, and old book leather. You all still remember books, right? Reading digital books just doesn’t have the joy of holding a real physical book that has a gentle on the eyes font. Now for the taste, and there’s cherries, blueberries, plummy, spice and some smoke. This is soooo smooth, and deep dark richness. As much as I hate using this term, but I can’t think of anything better, this is one sexy wine.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: This is deep velvet underground.

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True Friendship

Les Tètes
Tète Blanche
Le Pressoir, Touraine Azay-le-Rideau, Loire, France
Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Roussanne
Biodynamic and native yeasts

A drop of golden sunshine. A fresh breeze of citrus, grapefruit, white floral, slate and a bit of toasted vanilla. You know, like those cookies you had when you were a kid. Drink in the citrus, apple, pineapple, a lick of granite, and those beloved toasted vanilla cookie again. Lovely, smooth and a beautiful wine to accompany the new Martin Walker novel, “The Shooting at Château Rock”. Absolutely love his “Bruno Chief of Police Series”. His books always take my brain to France, the wonderful people, the beautiful food, and of course the lovely wine. I highly recommend escaping with one of them.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Makes it more juicy and fruity and tart. Brings out the sharp tart apple

Les Tète Blanche is a wine project created by four friends: Nicolas, Philippe, Baptiste, and Vivien and they say, “Les Tétes is about friendship, and wines you drink with friends.” Which leads me to another group of four friends of a different feather, the infamous “Golden Girls”: Rose, Dorothy, Sophia, and the colorful and amorous Blanche Devereaux. Do any of you remember Blanche’s tropical bedroom? Well, it turns out it has quite a following. I hadn’t even finished typing her full name in Google, and the hallowed bedroom popped up. Turns out the set design team had to keep the bedspread under lock and key while they were not filming. Read more about it here, and raise a glass to friendship!

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A Spiritual Emotion

Antica Tenuta Pietramore
Vanita 2019
Methode Ancestrale
Vino Frizzante
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 100%
Abruzzo Italy
Organic and Biodynamic
Winemakers Maria Pia Leone & Massimiliano Bartolomei

Color is golden with a dusting of cloudy sediment. Take that first deep breath, and savor the lemon and grapefruit. Next come the slate and something herbal I can’t identify, but it gives it this wilderness spice hint. Still swirling and honestly I’m always a fan of a bit of sediment. It’s like having the prize in the bottom of a box of Cracker Jacks. You can’t wait to get to it. On with the sipping… there’s apples, salt, grapefruit, lemon, and ginger. It’s fresh and zingy bubbles and a touch of earth. This is definitely a pét-nat to pack along to go sit buy the river and relax.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Just bubbly happiness. Brings out the apples

Visiting Antica Tenuta Pietramore’s site and you’re greeted with a beautiful quote, “The pleasure of wine: a spiritual emotion”. Winemakers Maria Pia Leone and Massimiliano Bartolomei (her husband) have a deep love and care for their land and the vines that they cultivate. They’ve dedicated themselves to keeping everything organic and biodynamic. They’re also bio-vegan using what they call “green manure” which is planting legume plants between the vineyard rows and then as the plants grow, they pass on nutrients to the vines. Very cool, and I’m sure a lot of work, but it definitely pays off in the health and quality of their wines. Their grapes are harvested by hand, and so are their olives which are turned into a cold pressed bio and organic olive oil. The serene pics of their land and the neighborhood surrounding make me want to get on a plane right now and discover all I can about Abruzzo.

The three comunes/provinces mentioned on Pietramore’s site are Chieti, Teramo, and Pescara which they state are the best terroirs in Abruzzo, so here go my travels.

The northeastern side of Chieti touches the Adriatic and that area is known as Costa dei Trabocchi. Beautiful sandy and pebbly beaches, rocky cliffs, and trabucchi that extend out into the sea. A trabucco is an old fishing contraption/structure built of wood and is also grounded in rock. They look like shacks at the end of a long deck, that have crane-like extensions with nets that can be lowered by a winch when the fishermen see fish headed their way. From what I’m reading some of these old buildings have been transformed into restaurants, and as for others, the Italian government has provided funding for historical preservation. Such a nice slice of history.

Moving on to Teramo. Since we’ve already had a taste of the coast, I’m turning my eyes to Gran Sasso d’Italia, which is also located in Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park. There are old tales that Gran Sasso was a sleeping giant. Now it’s a majestic attraction that draws hikers, climbers and others that just want to enjoy a day in nature. There are three different summits and it’s tallest is the Corno Grande, which also happens to be the tallest point in the Apennine Mountains. The different levels of Gran Sasso also include areas where sheep roam and graze and wildflowers are abundant. There’s also quite an assortment of wildlife and some of them are quite rare such as the Apennine wolf, European wildcats and the Abruzzo chamois which is a goat-antelope (I had no idea this creature ever existed and it is cute!)

Now to Pescara…Let’s stop off at the Museo Delle Genti d’Abruzzo, which documents the history of the people of Abruzzo beginning in palaeolithic times. The museum strives to keep passing down all the traditions, religions, folklore, and cultural transitions, to make sure that future generations will know where they come from and what shaped their society into what it is now. Here’s a little bit of Pescara history for you. Back in 1969, they held their first international jazz festival. Now it takes place every July (not sure how 2020 will be due to Covid) and it has drawn so many famous musicians such as Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, Chick Corea, Dizzy Gillespie, Charles Mingus, Herbie Hancock, Sarah Vaughn and the list goes on. I’ll leave it here with Mingus: Take the ‘A’ Train – Live At Montreux

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Following the White Rabbit

Château La Franchaie
Lapin Blanc 2018
Winemaker Eric Dubois
Anjou France
Chenin blanc

A glassful of the immortal lyric from Spandau Ballet, GOLD! Then take a deep breath of cardamom, salt, lemon, hibiscus, and some earthy freshly picked daisies.

Get ready to follow the white rabbit, if you dare take a sip. There’s pear, tart apple or crab apple, salt, granite, and deep flowers like honeysuckle. Keep on imbibing and it becomes smoky, heady, decadent and a hint of vanilla. I see beautiful dreams heading my way this evening, or it may take another turn and I’ll encounter the infamous vorpal bunny.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: clean and sharp

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