Don’t Stop The Dance

La Grange de l’Oncle Charles
La Danse des Corbeaux 2021
Riesling, Chasselas, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris, Gewurtztraminer
Organic, biodynamic, no sulfur, horse & sheep powered
Alsace, France
Jérôme François & Morgane Stoquert

A golden ray of summer sun that deepens over time. Inhaling apples & pears (baked & fresh), honeycomb, pinch of allspice, clover & orange blossoms & their greenery, gentle lemons & key limes, May roses, and a cool sea breeze with a touch of spring house mineral. Sipping and all of the scents with a heightened citrus twang that now includes pink grapefruit & tangelo, dash of juniper berries, a little woodsy/smoky on the backside that joins in with the honeycomb/wax, that salty/mineral taste grows, and it all melds together into a zingy lively sip that is filled with an elevated elegance. I truly love this wine!

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Oh no! Step away from the box.

La Danse des Corbeaux translates to “the dance of the crows”. The first time I saw a murder of crows flying in a formation like a murmuration (more often it would be starlings) we were driving in the countryside in France. It was like a beautiful well choreographed swirling and whirling dance that took over the sky. Then they started coming up closer and closer to the back of the car in a way that almost looked like they were chasing us which was a slightly unsettling feeling (especially for a person who was scared & mentally scarred as a child due to the famous Hitchcock flick). Not much later they passed us and flew off to the side and continued their modern aerial ballet that just took my breath away. 🐦‍⬛

Where Time Stands Still

Bodegas Frontonio
Microcósmico
Garnacha 2024
Organic, biodynamic, native yeasts, horse plowed vineyards
Alpartir, Zaragoza, Aragón, Spain
Fernando Mora MW & winemaking partner Mario López

Bright shining ruby. Sniffing & there’s cherries, raspberries, cool fresh mineral smell from our old spring house, plums dark & light, pomegranate, whiff of gingerbread as time goes by a  moment of Oreo center/vanilla way in the back & before you know it…it’s gone, & strawberries.All the scents are there but w a bright light kick that’s so uplifting, boysenberry, & lick of a singed orange peel lip vibrating tingle. This is a wine you want to put on repeat.

Pairs w Cheez-Its: YES

This wine was recommended by a friend since it’s fabulous but also for what she had to say on meeting Fernando. She says from 1st hand experience he’s genuinely a nice guy who will pitch in to help someone he even just met. We need more people like him in the world. Anyway, Mora didn’t grow up in the wine world. His original studies & career were in engineering. Later he fell for wine, & his 1st foray into making it was in his bathtub (actually he had a micro-winery in a room in his apartment & the ferment temp was a bit high so he put the containers in a mix of water & ice to cool in the tub). His enthusiasm, handwork, passion & creativity led him to being one of the few MWs in Spain (he passed on his 1st try) & also kicking off their winery Frontonio in Alpartir. I love what he says on his blog about how living in this town changed everything. “It’s not just where I work, it’s how I live. Slow cooking, using local produce, getting to know the people & their stories, becoming part of a small community where everything has a history. Falling in love with a place without even realizing it. Here, time doesn’t flow, it stands still. And that, for someone as active as me, has been one of the greatest lessons of my life…That contrast between speed and slow time isn’t always easy, but I think that’s where the balance lies. Having time to take care of yourself, to enjoy, to observe. Because you have to know how to observe.” 🍷

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The Brotherhood Of Vines

Domaine des Frères
Les Moulins de Beau Puy 2020
Chinon AOC
Cabernet Franc
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested at night, indigenous yeasts
Beaumont-en-Véron, Loire,  France
Valentin & Marie Bruneau (husband & wife)

Ruby stained glass. Sniffing and there’s cherries, forest floor that fades over time, lavender, violets, spring flowers, deep plums, blueberries, and a tad of boysenberry. All of the scents are in the sip joined with dried cherries with a touch of earth that add a rustic moment, and a small bouquet garni of thyme, juniper, horehound, marjoram and other herbs. It’s just elegant with a timeless depth that lingers long after the last sip. On day two it’s even better.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: DON’T

Valentin wasn’t always a winemaker. His first career path was in engineering, but his heart really belonged outdoors. He went back to school for a degree (BTS in Viticulture and Oenology), interned with Yvon and Jules Métra, and continued learning from other winemakers. The whole time his wife Marie was supportively by his side and also for the search for their own vineyard. In 2018, they found exactly what they were looking for in Beaumont-en-Véron (11 ha) and the mission was now on. They got help from friends and family with the financing, Valentin’s brother (Henri) came on board in 2019, and they continued with turning the lands organic. Now here’s the part that makes me scratch my head, his brother left for another venture in Oct. 2022. Being my usual curious self, I wondered what happened and found differing comments online but my guess it was amicable since Valentin did keep the name, “Domaine des Frères”. As he says on his site, “I chose to keep the original name of the estate unchanged because I don’t want to erase the past. He was fully in the development and construction of this project. Today the word ‘Frères’ with a capital F incorporates all of those who support us and are the estate’s lifeblood.” Wine can all bring us into a brotherhood, & cheers to celebrating all those that helped shape their vines & wines in the past, today, and the future! 🍷❤️🍇🇫🇷

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Damm Good Wine

Adega Damm Amandi
Rocoso Vinas Viejas 2020
80% Mencia, 20% Palomino
Organic
Amandi, Ribera Sacra, Spain
Martin Damm

Dark rubilicious purple. Breathing in plums, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, cola, whiff of an Oreo center, an earthiness that grounds it, dried figs, and dark chocolate. All of the scents are in the taste along with blueberries, a sprinkle of spice (cinnamon), pinch of white pepper, smidge of Alpine herb, and singed orange/lemon zest. So smooth, delicious, and bright like a far off twinkling star born from “Rocky Old Vineyards”.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: oh yeah

I love hearing the stories of who people fell into their wine life. Turns out Martin was originally from Denmark and in his youth was already fascinated with learning and absorbing all he could on different countries & regions and how the lands influenced the grapes. Not exactly sure how this next step developed but he ended up being a therapist (curious as to what type) that became a wine importer and later decided to buy his own plots in Ribeira Sacra. His lands are beautiful, majestic…steep hillsides filled with beautiful green leaves. Just check out his IG account because the views are swoon worthy & my favorite is of a young girl atop one of the hills on a swing that looks like she could glide over the vineyards below. Oh who wouldn’t want to live here! Martin also has a great appreciation & knowledge of Burgundy and sees the same vision in Spain. As he says on Grand Cru Selections site, “What is special about it is that each vineyard has its own personality, just like in Burgundy. I like that diversity in the different plots. Each one is different from the other. I know that there is still much to be done and I am sure that there are extraordinary vineyards yet to be discovered. I am convinced that here each vineyard can give you a wine with its own personality. The future that awaits the Ribeira Sacra and therefore its wines is great. I think it is the area with the most potential in Spain and almost in Europe….” 🍷❤️

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Soundtrack Of The Vineyard

Celler de les Aus
Aus
Pét Nat Rosé 2023
Mataró (Monastrell)
Ancestral method, organic
Catalunya, Spain
Mireia Pujol-Busquets

Light bubblegum pink with a flash of magenta and active bubbles. Breathing in strawberries with their caps, leaves & all, slight bit of cream, raspberries, cherries, a little good funk that deepens in a good way & later fades, and a light lemon/tangerine tingle. Everything that has my nose twitching is here minus the funk but with a tad more of a citrus twist/brightness that’s tongue & lip zinging, and a teeny splash of red currant/gooseberry blend. It’s crisp, dry & full of life with an elegant depth, and it’s bringing a brightness to this grey day & heralding in spring filled with joyful birdsongs. 

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Eh I say no

“Celler de les Aus” is a branch of Josep Maria Pujol-Baquests’ “Alta Alella” that is now helmed by his daughter Mireia. She & her family have made as they say, “A pact with nature. Commitment to the product.” They are deeply committed to being organic, sustainable, low intervention, and no sulfites added. The labels ( beautifully depicted by artist Paul Fassen) also celebrate the birds “who sing their melodies to create a soundtrack of the vineyard” and are named after the feathered friends that reside in Serralada de Marina’s Natural Park. Maybe after a few glasses of this pét nat rosé your spirits will lift and you’ll gradually hear them too. 🦜🪺🐦‍⬛

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An Ancient Grape For Modern Times

Tenimenti Leone
Tera de Leone 2021
100% Cesanese
IGP Lazio Rosso
Organic
Lanuvio. Lazio, Italy

Dark ruby shine. Breathing in raspberries & strawberries with a touch of cream, deep plums, cherries, smidge of cherry Twizzlers, dried figs, and a whiff of cola. All of the scents are in the swig along with singed orange & lime peel, a lick of iron & espresso and the volcanic soil where it grew.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: smooth operator but it’s even better with dark chocolate hand dipped dried figs

While reading up on Cesanese’s history that is linked back through the ancient Romans and more lately to break out winemakers focusing on natural, organic, and letting the land speak through the grape; my friend reminded me of a female winemaker that gave this grape a touch of star shine. Natalie Oliveros learned in northern NY how to make wine from her father due to their Calabrese heritage on her Nonna’s side…albeit basement wine. I’m sure it tasted a lot better than my dad’s 🤣. Anyway, you might also know her from her stage name, Savanna Samson which she picked up while dancing in NYC & in her award winning career as a porn star. That name carried over into her first wine line (with winemaker Roberto Cipresso) that included her well known “Sogno Uno” (70% Cesanese, 20% Sangiovese & 10% Montepulciano) that Robert Parker scored 91, and after meeting her…he also added that she has a “‘good palate’”. So as many women winemakers that have had to do the good fight and not get classified by their gender, she’s proven herself & her wines to not just the critics but also the world, and now she fully owns her own winery “La Fiorita” since 2014. Cheers & thank you to my friend who sent me down this wine rabbit hole and this wonderful grape🍷!

Magical Happy Accident

Agrícola Calcárea
El Descontrol 2024
Clarete Rosé
Moscatel Romano (mostly) & Tintilla de Rota
Organic, natural, sustainable
Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Andalucia, Spain
Juan Jurado Gomez

Magenta tinged warm sunset rose. Breathing in oranges & blossoms, lemon/lime, tangerine, whiff of smoke, gooseberry, pomegranate,  young raspberry & strawberry, and a teeny touch of hyacinth. In the taste there’s again oranges, lemon/lime, pomegranate, young strawberries, pinch of peach, a little watermelon/mango jolly rancher, and on the back clover leaves. There’s an elegant smooth feel but a tiny citrus tingle, and I want to say delicate, but there is a strong backbone that is full of confidence.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NOPE

El Descontrol was born from Juan working long harvest days and thus a lack of sleep. There wasn’t quite enough Moscatel Romano in the press, so he threw what he had available (Tintilla de Rota) to increase the pressure. Turns out he ended up with too much juice and just tossed it into a tank with no lid and well kind of forgot about it for 2 months. When he got back from Italy it was covered in thick flor so he took a chance of tasting it and this happy accident became something magical. Now we can all eagerly await this co-ferment each year. Cheers! 🍷

Hare’s To Character

Famille Brunier
(produced by their Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe)
Pigeoulet Rouge 2023
Vin de Pays du Vaucluse
55% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, 15%  Carignan, 8% Cinsault, 7% Mourvèdre
Organic, sustainable, hand harvested, & battles the moths (Eupoecilia ambiguella & Lobesia botrana) by sexual confusion
Bédarrides, France
Frédéric & Daniel Brunier (brothers), Nicolas & Manon (Frédéric’s son & daughter), Édouard (Daniel’s son)

Shining cherry/raspberry. Breathing in cherries, raspberries, plums, blueberries, red currants, a tangle of lavender/rosemary/thyme, and a light bit of licorice. All of the scents are in the taste but with even more grace & a sweetness but not overly. On the exhale there’s now more earth and a little peat. Such an easy drinker & so full of vibrant life that can turn a cold grey day into blue skies & rainbows.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: step away from the box

The Famille Brunier has a longstanding & well acclaimed history (over 125 years) in wine; and more than likely at least one of their bottles has crossed your path from such as Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Domaine La Roquète, and Domaine Les Pallières (with Kermit Lynch). This fun bunny or aka Pigeoulet (“little one” translation from local dialect) hopped onto my lap when I was browsing wines to relax with while watching the latest season of “Drops of God”. BTW I’m still on the fence on how I feel about season 2…anyone else catching up on it? Would love to hear your thoughts.  Back to the Bruniers, they let their wines speak for themselves. As they say on their site, “Personality and balance are the two key words that guide our decisions and actions.” Well, this hare’s blend is full of that mentioned personality and heartwarming & smooth balance. I’d follow this little joyful character down rabbit holes any day. 🐰🍷

A Glass To Snuggle Up To

Quinta do Passadouro
Vinho Tinto 2019
55% Tinta Roriz, 25% Touriga Francesa, 10% Touriga Nacional, 10% Field Blend from old vines
Duoro DOC
Pinhão, Portugal

Inky maroon with purple pops. Sniff and a little oak dances through & mingles with dark cherries, black olives, wildflowers, blackberries, black currants, plums, and a pinch of warm spice & anise. Tasting and there’s dark cherries joining the blackberries, blueberries, black currants & plums & a red currant or two with a not quite ripe tart raspberry, licorice, horehound, and the teeny tiniest of vibrating tomato leaf appears & then tells you you didn’t see them…or shhh they were never there it’s all an illusion. Everything smooths out into an elegant, graceful sip. You know…this wine pairs well with a lot, but honestly I prefer just snuggling up with a glass while watching the snow fall.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: this is one of those moments of YES!

Yes, I’ve had my fair share of Passadouro wines over the years, but when I saw this bottle, I knew it was time to revisit this old friend (actually brought 2 home). While the Genetta genetta on the label may look somewhat like a cute kitty you want to rescue, it’s better to leave them in the wild. I think the best description I found was on discoverwildlife.com: “Genets resemble the love child of a cat crossed with a smidgen of mongoose and a touch of marten, with a soupçon of lemur thrown in for good measure.” These nocturnal creatures are also great for natural pest control since they’re generally carnivores and love snapping up rodents, birds, bugs, and other small critters; but they’re also know to enjoy figs, olives & the like. It would be such a wonderful dream to travel to Portugal, sit out in the dark in a vineyard, and get to see one unclose & personal on its agile nightly hunt.

Prehistoric Lessons

Sylvain Bock
Raffut 2023
100% Syrah
VDF
Certified organic, biodynamic, indigenous yeasts
Alba-la-Romaine, Ardèche, France

Dark maroon/purple with a shimmer of magenta on the rim. Breathing in dried figs, deep cherries dried & fresh, strawberries & raspberries that go deep, whiff of cola, briny olives, violets, sprinkle of cinnamon, plums that grow & darken, a little boysenberry, and peaty smoke. All of the scents are in the taste with a lighter touch along with Niçoise olives, and zippy orange & lemon zest that is also a bit singed. Let this baby have a good long timeout, and you will be rewarded as everything blooms.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: it does but it’s better without

Honestly this is my first Sylvain Bock wine. Didn’t know what to expect, but when I saw on the back of the bottle the very recognizable logo of Super Glou (a cat, a dog & in between a bottle of wine) I knew it would be up my alley. They work with “small-production, low-intervention producers from France, Germany, Italy, Scandinavia, Catalunya, Chile and pockets of America”, and Bock fits that criteria perfectly. He’s a zero/zero natural winegrower & maker with a true passion for his craft, wine, vines, and of course land. From an IG post by @super_glou & @glougloumagazine during one of their visits to his vineyards they were not only taught a lesson in “wine growing but in prehistoric geology” which I bet was exciting and inspiring. Sylvain’s knowledge of the soils & what lies beneath & nourishes the lands (limestone, fossils, basalt, etc) guides his decisions on which grape will thrive & where. And if you have a moment to peruse his IG page, you’ll see he also slows down to appreciate & cherish what resides in his vineyards (or maybe they’re just stopping by for a visit)…flowers, ladybugs, and a post from just a few weeks ago of one special moment of finding a “little nest in the middle of the vineyards”. As Sylvain  says, “Nature always finds its place, even in winter”, and I see it as a sign of the beautiful spring & growth yet to come. 🪺❤️🍷

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