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Returning to the Start and Beginning Again

Buli
Estate 44 2016
Toscano Rosso IGT
Siena Italy
Sangiovese 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot 10% and Syrah 10%
Organic, hand harvested, and 70% Unilateral Cordon-spur trained (cane pruned) and 30% Guyot
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

A shining garnet/ruby glass. Greeted by scents of dark cherries, deep plum, cola, and vanilla that daintily lingers and then hides and then pops back out to surprise you. There’s also earth, pine trees and needles. I feel like I’m walking through an enchanted forest. All sorts of flavors hit at first sip, so give it a little and enjoy cherries, plums, blackberries, raspberries, earth and cherry pit dark goodness, along with a shake of white pepper. This is a light bright velvety juicy red that as time goes by starts heading toward medium and can stand up and stand by to a fabulous plate of D.O.C. Wine Bar’s, Chef Stefano Baldantoni’s Lamb Chops.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out a velvet oak dancing with the cherries and plums

This is my second dance with Estate 44. Almost a year ago, I met Buli’s 2015, and have worked my way through their whole collection, and they are consistently fabulous and fascinating. They capture Podere Collalto’s (Farm on a High Hill) essence and romance. Estate 44 is especially dedicated to the Allied soldiers that liberated Tuscany, and those that did not make it back. Thank goodness, Robert’s father made it back to the States, and brought along with him a beautiful Italian wife after an adventure that included a search for wine and a strong love at first sight that even involved reenlisting in order to get permission for the marriage. For more on that check out Ruby Velvet Romance. I’m so grateful to have been able to see Italy through Robert’s eyes and writings, and taste the wonders that can come from his 5 hectares of the world. And I will add once more, someone needs to make a movie of how this family’s whole story and Robert’s wines have played out. This bottle was like a return home for me. Cheers to them all and to what the future brings!

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A True Classic

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2016
Toscano Sangiovese IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Organic and hand harvested in small baskets
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Shiny garnet/ruby glass that is a welcome start to my evening. Enchanting and yummy scents of deep cherry, vanilla, chocolate chips like in the fresh baked cookies you’ve pulled pulled open. Let it keep breathing plums and orange zest appear. A touch of salt like a breeze. Stop laughing this isn’t a potato chip commercial. I’m not on the “Cape.” This is from the hilltop where the grape is born. Now sipping cherries, prunes, dried figs and dates. There’s a dark depth but not an overly heavy wine, nor light. I’m happily floating in the medium realm. Now I’m also getting baker’s chocolate and chicory and as I exhale post sip…that taste of fine cigar smoke. Who doesn’t love one every once in a while. Now as I’ve spent the evening with this bottle’s last glass, it comes to a sweet smooth cherry end.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out blueberry/cherry mix and a more velvet feel that grows yet still that pinch of chicory at end.

This is my 5th Buli wine and my 2nd 515 S.L.M. When I was introduced to my first bottle, the wine just spoke to me and then their history made me fall in love. Ok, the tales didn’t sway my delight in each bottle because every one has proven their merit and deliciousness. This Sangiovese is a classic beauty that has a daring side. As I sip, it reminds me of John Singer Sargent’s, “Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau)” and her elegance, beauty, and flirtatious confidence (minus the scandal). This wine is a reputable beauty that’s not on a pedestal but on Podere Collalto’s “high hill”.

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Loved By God

Buli
Amidei 2015
Toscana Rosso IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Sangiovese 40%, Merlot 20%
Organic, hand harvested, and 70% Unilateral Cordon-spur trained (cane pruned) and 30% Guyot
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Sparkling ruby fit for a ring *knock knock you know who…Valentine’s Day is coming up! Inhaling cherries, a dozen roses, strawberries, lilies, pleasant oak with anise, and spice. Can’t wait to get to the taste and it’s full of strawberries, fine oak, cherries, and blueberries thrown into the batch. There’s dark deep depth and rustic earth, yet I’m still drinking those beautiful roses…majestic.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Darker, deeper, richer and funkier and sweeter

Amidei (which means “Loved by God”) is the name of Robert Buly’s grandmother’s family. They were also wine and olive oil merchants from Florence. As I’ve written about before, Robert was drawn back to the romantic history and his family in Italy and also to these same delicious ways. Buli’s Amidei “Super Tuscan” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot ages for 2 years, but doesn’t get permission to hang out all together. 40% get the new French oak and 60% used. Hey, what’s wrong with vintage clothes when they’re couture? Then they get to play together for one month before bottling. This swirl then gets to age in a bottle for a year, and then it’s up to you when to open. I ask, why wait for 2022, Mr. Suckling? Life is short, and last year totally showed us this more than anything. Seize the moment, open the good bottle and live a little! Bring over a charcuterie board, along with some grilled lamb chops, put a record on to spin and let’s get down tonight.

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Beauty on a High Hill

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2019
Toscano Bianco IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
Chardonnay 70%, Trebbiano 30%
Organic, guyot, and hand harvested
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Pale shining gold. Scents pop out of cantaloupes, honeydew, a little smoky/peat but seriously delicate, Red Delicious apples and a faint whiff of their blossoms. Also smidge of salt and something mineral or the more I think of it if you have ever stripped a fresh apple branch, it’s that smell. Its green, clean, and grounding. First sip and there’s a small squeeze of lemon like one wedge hanging on the side of your glass, muskmelon, honeydew, peaches, Red and Golden delicious apples, and honey that tastes like it had a walnut aging in it for a while…Mmmm. A little oak warmth that turns to smoke with a lick of salt but nothing overpowering. I read someone mention harsh at the end, but there is nothing harsh unless you think a basic tiny lemon squeeze harsh. All I know is I want some west coast oysters with mignonette right now.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: a little more dark nightshade, some grass and a little more rich and round

Sea level means so much in cooking, baking, and farming. While 515 meters S.L.M. is not good for cooking grits (you seriously have to have the right sea level for southern certified grits), it is fabulous for these grapes. Robert Buly enlisted his cousin Giulio to help in the search for the perfect place for him to get back to his family’s “deep roots”, in 2006, Podere Collalto (farm on a high hill) came up for sale. What’s even better it was only 6 miles from his cousin’s place. It has it all…great sunlight. beautiful summer breeze, rugged good soil and plenty of room for a vineyard and olive trees. Check out the site for images from their enchanting little part of the world, it will brighten your day.

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Deep Roots

Buli
Le Fonde 2019
Toscano Rosato IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Organic and guyot training
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Radiant salmon color. First scents of very light orange cream with a tad lemon zest. Keep letting it breathe just little bit longer, trust me. You’ll be greeted by cranberries, dried apricots, touch of magnolias but not heady, and then there’s also strawberries and raspberries. Lift that glass, sip and enjoy lemon, pink grapefruit, and zingy orange which leads to apricot and a whole pile of fruits like watermelon, strawberries, and raspberries. Now there’s salt, smoke, and a lick of slate. Ok, you’re going to think I’m a weirdo, but something about this reminds me of an Orange Julius that isn’t super sweet. Maybe it’s just bringing back a memory which good wine and food always should do. For all you old mall rats and I was one of them before I got my job at the record shop, you will get this flavor (yes, this is a good thing with this wine). Some would call this a summer wine, but I think it is perfect for year round. I’m doing my third tasting on New Year’s Eve and it’s a welcome breath of fresh to 2021.

Pairs w Cheez-It’s: Delicious, it just brings out the fruit even more. Smooth.

My first Buli was their Estate 44 (2015) which was a big beautiful blend. La Fonde (2019), is a wonderful introduction for me to their varied styles. As you can tell from above, I love it. But there’s more to this tale. As in my first review, all of their wines are born from a film worthy WWII romance between a US soldier, an enchanting Italian lady, and a bottle of red wine. Robert Buly grew up in Pennsylvania, but his mother (the daughter of the mentioned couple) and brothers held on to their Italian heritage by speaking Italian at home and when they could travel back to Italy. All of their mother’s relatives were still back there, so what a better opportunity to fall for the food, wines and that way of life. Come on, who wouldn’t dream of such a great opportunity. This family is gifted to have these deep roots or in other words “Le Fonde”.

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