Returning To A Sparkling Nest

Domaine J. Laurens
Le Moulin
Blanquette De Limoux AOP
Brut
Mauzac, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay
Sustainable agriculture, HVE 3
La Digne d’Aval, Graimenous, Languedoc, France
Jacques Calvel and team

Very light yellow-gold with a green sheen and very fine white bubbles. Breathing in and it starts cool, clean and creamy smoothness (or a poof of meringue). Next up are pears (fresh & baked), green apples, lemon blossoms, light white peaches, and toasty brioche.  Sip and there’s green apples again with a few crab apples thrown in, firm green pears, apricot, a lemon/lime spritz, and mineral lick. It’s lovely, dry, crisp, and very lively.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: absolutely delicious

I always love stories of being able to reboot your life and return to your roots, just like Jacques Calvel. He grew up near Limoux and learned the satisfaction of a good day’s hard work from childhood. As often happens a person will leave the nest or in his case even France to venture to Switzerland, build his expanding venture and then after success, sell the business and return back to his homeland. Sparkling wine was his calling, and his business acumen & exporting knowledge were a perfect pairing. When he purchased Domaine J. Laurens it had a history of making sparklers, he just needed to rethink how they (he & his team) would work to better the lands, the winemaking process, and quality which is very important to all of them over quantity. They’ve achieved the 3rd level of HVE, and are working constantly harder to achieve organic. As Jacques says on his site, “Our next goal, which is not a small one, is to become organic. We are just at the start off our organic conversion; however, I am excited to work hard to provide a cleaner environment for the next generation.” Cheers and raising a glass J. Laurens caring enough to plan for the future of the next generations. 🥂

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Intersecting Generations

Guidobono
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2022
100% Nebbiolo
Sustainable
Canale (CN), Piedmont, Italy
Faccenda family

Deep ruby with a garnet rim. Give this bottle a little breathing room, inhale and there’s tart cherries, cranberry (fresh and dried), plums, jumble of blueberries, raspberries & blackberries, violets, the more it opens a warm spice, and on the back orange zest. Tastes swirl on my tongue of all of the scents joined with pomegranate and a little cedar.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: smooooth

The Faccenda’s purchased their winery just over 20 years ago and have proceeded to celebrate their love for the land and vines(30 to 40 years old). They sum it up best on their site, “The vineyards of the Rorero are our family’s home, where we both live and work. In keeping with our respect of nature, we use the ‘integrated farming’ agricultural practices set by the EU. Our winery is also a proud participant in Piemonte’s ‘Vino Sicuro’ project, aimed at keeping our region’s wines free of harmful pollutants.” Now onto their branding/labels which piqued my curiosity. Kept wondering why the clean lines forming an X or cross & also a metallic diamond/square (each wine has a different color) at their intersection. Turns out they worked with a very cool art director, Derrick Lin. He used the crossing lines to symbolize, “the generational bond between grandmother Velia (the vineyard’s first owner) and her children who have carried on the business; as well as the meeting point between the dedication of her grandchildren — both winemakers — and the generosity of extraordinary regions such as Roero, Langhe, Barolo. Guidobono wines emerge from this “intersection” of lives, affections, people and territories.” Perfect packaging and an even more perfect wine. 🍷❤️

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“It’s A Kind Of Magic”

La Masera
Anima 2020
100% Erbaluce
Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG
Organic
Settimo Rottaro, Italy
Alessandro, Gian Carlo, Davide, Sergio and Marco

Just like that good old yellow green crayon but shining. Breathing in white flowers & blossoms, mix of green apples, a  little green grass, firm crisp pears, a little bubbling citrus spark with a savory herb bundle with sage, thyme, & more, and of course my old familiar of that mineral spring house. Oooh this is delicious! Tasting green apples, pears, light honeysuckle, a sprig of fresh cut grass, a salt rim, and that same herb & mineral hit again. This is gentle, delicate and adventurous at the same time, and as it opens in the heat of tonight it blooms & shows its beauty.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: it’s ok but better on its own

Once upon a time there were five boys/friends that watched their elders revel & devote themselves to the growth & creation of an elixir, “Erbaluce Passito”, and well…it stuck. They did grow up, find their place in the world, but their minds circled back to that happy reminder from their childhood, or as they say “with our project we try to replicate those ancient gestures to give new life to that wonder of taste and inner search that springs out of a Settimo Rottaro Erbaluce Passito glass …”  Oh, to have a chance to recapture the past, harness a dream and make it real. Just like their native jewel of a grape…it’s a kind of magic!

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Helping Out Dad

Poderi Vaiot
Lupestre
100% Barbera
Barbera D’Alba DOC
Aged in apricot wood casks
Montà, Cuneo (Roero Hills), Piedmont, Italy
Owners: Daniele and Walter Casetta

Deep ruby with blue pops. At first that gentle butter/caramel whiff that waves bye, then cherries, plums, raisins, sultry dried figs, blackberry, and a nice grind of black pepper. Sip and there’s cherry with some oomph & plums, blackberry brambly, dried cherries & blueberries, raisins, a little date (dinner & movie anyone), black pepper, and a teeny smidge of cardamom the more it opens.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: richer, deeper and dried fruit

Daniele and Walter are the 3rd generation of this winemaking family. Their dad Franco taught them early on how to work with the grapes and care for the land. Daniele recounts in one of their winery videos, memories of when they were kids they would “help” out their dad in the cellar. Even if it is true as Daniele says that they may have been adding to their father’s work, it was definitely not a waste of time. Everything he imparted throughout the years has paid off and these brothers are keeping his memory and dream moving forward.

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Intriguing Melody

Cascina I Carpini
Rosato Frizzante Pet Nat NV
Barbera
Organic, holistic, vegan
Pozzol Groppo, Piedmont, Italy
Founder/winemaker: Paolo Carlo Ghislandi

Late sunset warm red and orange electric with tiny bubbles. It’s like breathing in a glass of fun. There’s a squeeze of blood orange, salt rim, a touch of natural funk that merges to a mineral vibe with depth, and raspberries and strawberries grooving together with white pepper, and as it warms and grows  tiny rose blooms. Those strawberries and raspberries are still dancing but this time on my tongue joined with a little young gooseberry pucker & smidge of lemon spritz spark, and that white pepper pinch again. My lips are tingling from this crisp/vibrant party.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bleh goes too tangy. Leave it solo.

It’s all about watching, listening, and waiting for Paolo Carlo Ghislandi. Before he even chose where he would establish his winery and vineyards he considered the perfect spot, the right grapes, how to get it to work together naturally, and let it guide the path to wine. His site details his vision & process (and boy is it well designed and beautifully written). Just read this little passage because anything I write will not do it justice to his creative eloquence. “In wine I always look for the fruitiness typical of the single grape varietal and the expression of the territory where is harvested. I imagine the must is the assembly of all the strings inside the grand piano case. Experimenting over the years, I noticed there is big difference in the sound output when the “must” is performed using selected yeast rather than indigenous yeasts. The indigenous yeasts, being heterogeneous and different from each other, are able to play from lower to higher tones with all semitones, providing a melody not immediately recognizable, but more complex and intriguing. And that’s why I choose to use only indigenous yeasts and spontaneous fermentations.”

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Who Let the Dogs Out?

Valdinera
Roero Arneis D.O.C.G. 2020
100% Arneis
Uncertified organic
Roero, Piedmont, Italy
Winemaking Family: Giuseppe “Beppe” Careglio and daughters Pamela and Carol

Palest starlight with a slight green shimmer. Lovely scents of pears and pear blossoms (reminds me of warm southern nights in Granny’s backyard, but thankfully without the mosquitos), slate, salt and mild honeysuckle with hints of Valencia orange and wild flowers. First sip and there’s pears and apples with a little tangelo, nectarine, and honeysuckle nectar following not far behind. Next up is a nice shake of salt, a little granite, and a few fresh blades of grass to balance everything out.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sharpens everything. Nice

2nd encounter with Valdinera and again darn delightful. 1st was their Chiaro di Luna Rosé (see “Rose Dappled Moonlight“ post) and it whisked me away to their breathtaking beautiful Roero. Check out the video footage on their site, and I bet you’ll start scanning around for plane tickets for a visit. You can book a tour and also bring your dog. They are pet friendly and have safe space for them to run around and wear themselves out and also a bowl of fresh water for when they wind down. Of course what else would you expect from a winery with those two stately and regal pups as their logo. Ok, so now due to all this canine talk, it’s pretty obvious I have a certain woofable song stuck in my head, so I just have to share this earworm with y’all. Please don’t hate me…

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Roses, Satin, and Romantic Notions

Forti del Vento
AltoFhrà 2018
100% Dolcetto
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested, and native yeasts
Ovada, Alessandria, Piedmont, Italy
Owners and winemakers: Tomaso Armento, Marco and Manuela Tacchino

Light red and somewhat plummy. Fragrances of cherries, cranberry, raspberries, a dozen roses, lilacs, and some natural forest funk that runs out the door. First sip and there’s a little exciting tingle on my tongue. Next are strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and all so deliciously juicy. Also a tangy spark in the very back of my mouth. Smooth easy sipping…like relaxing back on a satin pillow.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Ack! No!

Their name alone conjure up dreams of castles, period dramas, and winds fleeting over the hills of Castelletto D’Orba (as I’ve said before, I’m a hopeless romantic). Guess that’s why I love the stories of the young taking on the mantle of the old and recreating their inherited land (from their grandparents) and winemaking skills into natural, organic, bio, and have been proudly accepted as a member of Vinnatur. They (Tomaso, Marco and Manuela) have such high standards and most importantly respect for their part of the world, and have a very important rule of their cellar, “Do not remove or add anything to the wine, so it can be the expression of the vineyard.” Sounds simple, but it takes a lot of patience, knowledge, practice, and of course the best ingredient…love.

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Rose Dappled Moonlight

Valdinera
Chiaro di Luna Rosé
Langhe DOC
Rosato 2019
100% Nebbiolo
Uncertified organic
Roero (winery), Corneliano d’Alba (CN), Piedmont, Italy
Winemaking Family: Giuseppe “Beppe” Careglio and daughters Pamela and Carol

Delicate salmon color. Breathe in and there’s light Crème de Cassis, shortbread, then all that fades or blends into light dancing cherries and everything keeps circling and eventually chercranstrawberry enters stage right but walking in on tiptoes ever so lightly. First sip and all that tiptoeing stops. Out pops cherries, strawberries, and cranberries. This is just a happy delicious wine full of dance and life.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Not bad. Everything goes deep and dark. It’s like from day to night.

One dad, two daughters and two majestic dogs carry on the winemaking/vineyard history passed down through this family. Their beautiful land of Roero (which is part of a Unesco World Heritage site since 2014) is filled with “Rocche” which were created from erosion and are canyons, chasms, hills that are sheared off, pinnacles, and such that appear through the region. They are incredible geological wonders, and detail the history of this part of the world. Much to my delight you can still find fossils and shells. I can only imagine this place dappled by moonlight or “Chiaro di Luna”.

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Art Comes in All Forms

Amalia Cascina
Rossese Bianco 2017
Rossese Bianco 100%
Langhe DOC
Hand harvested
Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy
Winemaking Team: Paolo Boffa, Gianpiero Romana (agronomist), Piero Ballario (enologist), and Maria Angela Boffa (mom, runs the B&B)

Light straw like the miller’s daughter wove into gold. Breathing in honey, pear, summer savory, and light cinnamon. What a nice start, that blends into delicious growing flavors of pear, Rainier cherries, yellow plums, golden delicious apples (perfectly ripe), white raisins, smoke, salt, again light cinnamon now with a tad of clove, shortbread, and light oak with a dried Turkish fig finish. How else can I put this…it’s like drinking Klimt’s, “Bauerngarten”.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: NO it totally ruins it

The Boffa family found the perfect farmhouse in 2003, that came with some pretty great vineyards. They’ve expanded a bit more in vines and winery, but from all I see on their site, I would have thought this had been passed down forever through the family and updated to modern times. It is so gorgeous (well it is set in an UNESCO World Heritage Site) and there’s a B&B with a pool. Most importantly though, thank you for being one of the lucky few cultivating Rossese Bianco. How such a unique delicious grape could come close to vanishing is amazing. One more reason to say thank goodness for the 70s (along with some fab music) when it was resurrected. Also I’m reading that not only do they have a deep appreciation for beauty in many forms such as the land, the grapes, but also a very cool art collection and some of it is on view. Going through their slides now and they really do have some serious work, just wish I could see them in person, especially the 3 panel blue wall piece. It looks like if you stared at it long enough you would become drawn into and never to be seen again. Gorgeous!

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Follow the Moon

Hilberg Pasquero
29.5 Per Alessandra
Barbera d’Alba 2016
100% Barbera
Vino Rosso
Priocca, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy
Biodynamic, organic, sustainable farming, and native yeasts
Winemaker couple: Miklo and Annette (Hilberg) Pasquero

Dark violet velvet drapery. Breathing in cherry, plum, cinnamon and a warm hug. Post hug you’re gifted a bouquet of wild flowers and something rustic like tobacco or dried apple leaves on the ground. Elegant and touch rugged on my tongue at the same time. There’s silky cherry, rustic plum, blackberries, and leather. The word I absolutely hate to use for wine…it’s sexy…I’d say let’s all take a roll in the hay but none of that funky stuff in this one.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: of all it’s more leather (thwack and SMack) and still smooth

29.5 get’s it’s namesake from the lunar phase cycle which is 29.5 days from New Moon to New Moon. So much of our own existence is governed by these cosmic push an pulls. Throughout history farmers used cycles to decide when to plant, when to grow, when to pick, when to harvest and even when to bottle. Some people think nah, this has to do with pagan traditions, but the more I read about biodynamic farming, it seems pretty sound to me. The days in the cycle have groupings of root, flower, leaf and fruit. Fruit days are supposed to be when time for winemaking is at its best and that period just happens to fall into the fire signs. Since I’m a Sagittarius, does that mean that I may have a winemaking adventure in my future? Or does that just mean I should open a special bottle on my birthday….which is coming up pretty soon…hint, hint, hint.

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