“We Don’t Like Sloppy Wines”

Vanempo
Tramonto 2019
Rosso Toscana IGT
Sangiovese 60%, Canaiolo 30%, Malvasia Nero 10%
Biodynamic, organic, hand harvested & vegan
Montemurlo, Italy
Michele Sacchetti & Laura Fabbri

Follow the instructions on the label, remember to decant for at least 30 minutes, and you’ll have a deep ruby pour. Inhaling cherries, dark plums, maybe a little cinnamon, blackberries, a scent that reminds me of my other much earlier life of binding books & printmaking, and as it grows a raspblueberry blend. First taste and there’s tart/dark cherries & plums fresh & dried, Kalamata olives, blackberries with seeds & all, again over time that raspblueberry blend again, red currants, and a tad of white & black pepper…so very awake and alive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: so smooth and rich

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post, the name “Vanempo” comes from a combo of two words, “Avanza and Tempo” which pretty much means “spare time”. Well, Michele & Laura originally started this wine adventure in their “extra time” as a passion project. As Michele says, “I’ve always believed in beautiful things, and beautiful things arise from a child’s dreams.” Those dreams sparked such a full fledged bio certified winery reality, filled with “hands off” wines that I’ve had the good fortune to encounter like their Maluna, Aura, and now Tramonto (Sunset). I think their mindset & devotion to their land & vines (instead of following certain rules that would clip their wings) help them soar in excellence because each one is so individually special & consistently delicious. As they’ve said, “We don’t like volatile acidity, we don’t like brett and we don’t like sloppy wines made just with the goal to catch some like on the social media. We like the terroir to speak for itself. We could have labeled our wines as Chianti but we have preferred to give up the DOCG as we don’t have any confidence in its moral integrity”.🍷

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Take A Hike

Fabulas
Fortitudo 2023
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP
100% Montepulciano
Organic, biodynamic, sustainable, hand harvested, sheep in the vines
Pretoro, Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy
Nico Ciavalini & partners

Strawberry rose sunrise. Sniffing and there’s strawberries, raspberries, boysenberries, cherries, cool mineral river rock, pomegranate juice, red currants, and a touch of balsamic reduction…truly just a touch. Sipping away and all of the scents with a dribble of blackberry, a little blood orange on the back, yellow plums, and it’s juicy, fresh, lively, and so easy to drink so be careful or the whole bottle will be gone in a flash.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t…step away from the bag

Fabulas’ vines grow within Majella National Park (a UNESCO Global Geopark) and their bottles represent 7 female warriors of the region, mythical tales, history, and traditions. Fortitudo weaves the stories of bandits (briganti) that used to roam the mountainside, caves, etc. and taunt the authorities/soldiers by carving messages into Tavola dei Briganti (limestone slabs) like this quote, “Read my memoirs my dear readers. In 1820 Victor Emanuel, King of Italy, was born. Before 1860, this was the kingdom of flowers, now it’s the kingdom of poverty.” You can still see these marks of resistance and others from shepherds inscribing their names to live on through time. All you need to do is just take a hike, enjoy a moment of peace in nature, and follow in the footsteps of days long past.

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A Bottle Can Change Your Life

Domaine De L’ange Vin
Opera du Vin
Fêtembulles 2022
VDF
Pét-Nat
100% Chenin Blanc
Natural, organic, unfined & unfiltered
Loire Valley (Jasnieres – Coteaux du Loir), France
Jean-Pierre Robinot & family

During the pour looks like a lager with a big head and as the fizz calms down it’s just a lovely yellow gold with tiny bubbles. Sniff and floating up are brioche & a toasty comfort, pears & apples both fresh & baked, cool spring house smell, light honeysuckle, a squish of mandarin, lemon, & lime, and green spring shoots. Sipping and those apples & pears again but much more crisp with a light brioche bite, lemon/lime crisp, tiny pop of mango & maybe even a little bit of pineapple, mineral water salt/spritz, and a savory twinge of ginger.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: mmmm delicious

Mr. Robinot didn’t grow up in a family that had a vineyard to inherit. Bitten by the wine bug at 22 by a special bottle that rerouted his life path. In Paris he also found like minded friends, and over time opened the natural wine bar L’Ange Vin & started a wine magazine (Le Rouge et Le Blanc) with a friend. So I guess it would only be natural that he would want to take his passion further by making his own wines. He was still juggling time with the bar and taking the train back and forth to his hometown Chahaignes. Eventually his vines & land won his full attention, and the family (wife Noella & daughter Juliette) moved back to his roots. Now they have two wine lines, “Domaine de L’Ange Vin” that’s created from grapes he nurtured is on his own land & “Opera du Vin” made with fruit sourced from friends. Oh and Juliette has joined her father in the vines and also in their artistic creations which you’ll find on their labels that are eye catching & beautiful and of course attract magpies like me. Cheers! 🥂

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You Don’t Have To Break The Bank

Vallevò
Costa Dei Trabocchi 2023
Terre Di Chieti IGT
Rosato
100% Montepulciano
Rocca San Giovanni, Abruzzo, Italy
Coop technical director: Gianni Pasquale

Sunset rose-pink orange stained-glass (in the 80s would be coral). Sniffing watermelon, strawberries, crushed cherries, grapefruit-light, orange zest, fresh tarragon and some other herbal whiff that I can’t put a name on but maybe marjoram. All of the scents are in the taste with a good squeeze of lime tingle on my lips & tongue, and just fresh & freewheeling.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Nope…don’t ruin a good thing

Vallevò’s line is a part of the co-op winery Cantina Frentana that proves you can have a very, very good wine that doesn’t have to break the bank. There was an importer/distributor (before taking them on) who had doubts when hearing the price point from a group of Italian winemakers checking out CA wineries. They met again at Vintaly and this time there were bottles to taste and those doubts fluttered away. Other than the wine the label also piqued my curiosity as to what is this seaside structure? Turns out it’s called a trabocco that’s an old fishing platform with long wooden rods which held fishing nets that can be raised and lowered by winches. Now you’ll often find they’ve been adapted from their original use into restaurants where you can dine on delights from the sea & local fare and feel the breeze & waves rock you into a peaceful summer afternoon. Oh and from what I read, make sure you make a reservation way in advance or you’ll miss out on the 🦪🦑🦐.

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Absolutely No Brooding Here

Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce
La Xara 2022
100% Garnacha
Manchuela DO
Organic, vegan, biodynamic, hand harvested, indigenous yeasts
Villanueva de la Jara, Cuenca, Spain
Winemaker: Juan Antonio Ponce

Ruby with some purple blue flashes. Breathing in light violets, cherries, plums both fresh & dried, touch of fresh tobacco, ccaramelized goodness (hence the tobacco), raspberries, and tomato leaves. What I’ve sniffed is in the taste with a grind of peppercorns, a tart tangle of singed citrus zest, blackberries (fresh picked on the side of the road while warm, juice dribbling & all), fresh dandelion & oregano, and an enjoyable lick of iron. This is not a brooding red, but bright, fresh, and a dry tingle.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Smooth and juicy

At 14 Juan was already studying wine, applying his knowledge out in the world, and by 23 he started his own venture & from what I read it was with “11 barrels and a loan”…well and some land already being farmed by his father too. Now he’s known as one of Spain’s top “experts in biodynamic and natural winemaking”. He has a deep affinity for Bobal (he’s been called the Bobal whisperer), but he also has that “Gredos” touch with this lively, elegant, and as said before fresh Garnacha. Each glass just seems to shine more and if you listen closely it will start to whisper its tale since Juan “believes that every bottle tells a story”. This one is filled with love, care, respect and the passion behind his family’s life of wine. Wait…glass is there something else you’re trying to say? Is this really you whispering or is it the “wine” talking? You want me to get up off my butt & take a spin around the room to what…Sofi Tukker? Really? Well then I think it’s time to “Throw Some…” 💃🍷 Happy weekend & shake your tail feather, y’all!

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Mysterious Little Dove

Straightaway Cocktails
Paloma
Sparkling Tequila Cocktail
10% ABV
Portland, OR
Co-founders: Cy Cain & Casey Richwine

Straw yellow with a green sheen. Sniffing and there’s a fun blur of Froot Loops,lemons, tangerines, limes, tinge of grapefruit, and a tiny hint of wisteria that may blends into citrus blossoms. First few sips are like one last piece of summer that can easily morph into fall. There’s lemon, lime, pomelo, mild grapefruit or as they say Squirt, a bit of dry seltzer, honeysuckle stamen, tamarind, a warm spice like a mild peppercorn that’s lip vibrating, and a salt pinch at last.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: THIS IS A HARD NO

Ah Paloma…you pretty mysterious little dove. The more I search for you the less I find. Were you born in the 50s by a Don Javier Delgado Corona creation or not as he claims. Was it Squirt that gave you your first spark? Are you named after the folk song, “La Paloma”? Am I over thinking this as usual…yes. 🤣 No matter the true tale, Straightaway’s portable version just soars, and takes you along for a fun, bright ride. 🕊️

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Be “Still” My Heart

Conselve Vigneti e Cantine
Glera
Veneto IGT
Sustainable development
Conselve (PD), Veneto, Italy
President: Roberto Lorin

Spun straw with a bit of active bubbles at first that fade away. Sniff and there’s fresh rained on pavers, white peaches, crisp pears, bouncing lemons & limes, a blade of grass, touch of kumquat, and it’s just fresh and clean. Taking a sip and all of the scents along with green apple, bit of tangelo, fresh cucumber, crisp lemon/lime, and the bubbles are tiny & slight now too, and a sprinkle of seltzer/salt vibe at the crisp dry end.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: deliciously opens up a whole other array of flavors like white melon, honey & sugarcane

Back in the 1950, the coop Conselve Vigneti e Cantine (like many other producers were & some still are) was more about quantity of the grapes & wine they produced, but then a certain methanol scandal shook Italy in the mid 80s and everyone started rethinking…well…everything. In the 90s the Cantine’s winegrowers/makers turned to the “quality” side and have made changes toward sustainability of their already rich & fertile lands with combining their generations of traditions along with modern thinking & planning. Now this all leads me to this bottle of Glera. After going back through all of my notes, I do believe this is my first still one. All the rest have been bubbly prosecco or pét-nats. So guess what, Conselve you have me hooked. I’m in love! ❤️

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Rebel Angels

Velenosi
Prope 2021
100% Montepulciano
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Hand harvested
Vineyards located in the district of Controguerra
Winery: Ascoli Piceno, Marche, Italy
Wine Team: Ercole & Angela Velenosi, Filippo Carli & Luca Fioravanti (winemakers), and more

Deep inky ruby purple. Sniff and there are scents of dark cherries & plums, some tart cherries too, roses, violets & a little iris, smidge of coriander & cardamom (maybe some toasted too), touch of tobacco, and dried figs & cherries. Tasting cherries & plums tart & smooth, a  dried mix of cherrplulmfiggycot, blackberries, red & black currants, a pinch of black pepper with a teeny bit of cardamom, a little singed blood orange zest in the back, and not so dark but not so sweet chocolate.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: tangy crunchy good

Velenosi creates wines from Marche & Abruzzo and their lands are so near but divided by just a small border between them. Hence the name for their Prope wines which translates from Latin into “close to”. As they say on their site, “Wine is an art capable of making people dream”. These Abruzzo dreams are depicted on their labels & they “chose the inspiration of Osvaldo Licini, a local painter. He is just like Montepulciano: they both represent the true nature of the territory. Licini, a melancholy rebel, depicts gigantic angels riding horses fluttering between the ground and the sky which upon meeting their own reflection or their kindred spirit free themselves in space and time, holding each other’s hands as if dancing. It was love at first sight with Licini and also with his rebel angels which we have chosen for Prope. These angels partly represent us and partly belong to us.” Cheers to these rebellious angels and everyone that keeps this artistic wine dream alive.🍷🪽♥️

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Dancing Tastebuds

Vignobles Gueissard
Les Papilles 2023
Côtes de Provence DOC
Dry Rosé
Mourvèdre 30%, Grenache 30%, Syrah 30%, Cinsault 10%
HVE (working on certification), going through organic conversion, weeding done by sheep & horse, & sustainable
Le Beausset, France
Clément Minne, Pauline Giraud, their son Marcel & their team

Pretty in pink with a swish of salmon. Inhale and here comes a cool blend of honeydew & delightful pink grapefruit, cantaloupe, peaches, pears, apples, very ripe cucumbers, salt, wet limestone, and a lemon flies by. Sip and all of the scents along with all sorts of light cherries (pink, red, white, yellow, etc), not fully ripe blackberries, blood orange, and pink watermelon including the fresh green rind…so lively, vibrant and delicious.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Smooooooth

Pauline & Clément have over time collected plots in Bandol and Côtes de Provence, kind of like pieces of a quilt that when they are banded together create a beautiful array of wines. Each piece as they say is diverse with “very different in terms of soil type, exposure and maritime influences” and are also dearly cared for and protected. They’re going through the routes of organic certification, and maybe it’s the sentimental part of my childhood heart that loves seeing all sorts of beneficial trees planted. There’s ones that are magnets for birds & bees, others that give back to the earth & help deal with erosion, and on a personal note I hope there’s a few for climbing too because…well as a kid you could often find me in the orchard perched on a branch. BTW if you’re in their neighborhood on Sept. 26, you might get a chance to raise a glass to the end of summer if you can manage to snag a ticket to their tasting of 5 wines and snack on local delights. Maybe you might even encounter their “Les Papilles” which will keep your tastebuds dancing.

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My Dorothy Moment

Celler Jan Vidal
Vita Vivet Brut
Xarel-lo 50%, Macabeu 30%, Parellada 20%
Penedès, DO Cava
Organic
Bellvei, Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain

Twinkling starlight yellow with a green sheen and lovely little bubbles. Scents pop up of toasted rice (think Bibimbap) mixed with day 2 baguette edges, a lemon/lime spritzed apple & pear blend, and tiny roses & a few wild flowers. Taking a sip and there’s crunchy apples & pears, lemon/lime again that has a little tingly vibration, salt, smidge of dried pineapple, with a toasty melba vibe that’s in the back. Just dry, crisp, and very alive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: So vibrantly delicious

A good cava is one of my favorite things in the world. It always lifts my spirits and can turn a bad day into a joyous celebration. I remember my first encounter in high school art class. My teacher would often set up a still life, and one of the more interesting parts was the iconic black bubbly bottle (you know the one) & the detail that had to be rendered to depict it properly. No I did not kick it back 🤣, I was way too young so by the time I finally did try it, I honestly was not that impressed & kind of disappointed. When I did finally find a proper glass…oh it was like that moment in “The Wizard of Oz” when Dorothy steps into a Technicolor world. Now, every time I have one it transports me back to Catalunya, and if I close my eyes & allow myself to dream, I can just smell the tapas & remember the taste of good squishy cheese, feel the cool evening breeze, hear the clip of high heels on cobblestone, and feel all stress fade away. 🥂

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