Memories of Lives, Memories of Vines

Quartomoro
CRG
Memorie di Vite 2018
Red Wine
100% Carignano
Arborea, Sardegna, Italy
Low intervention, bush-trained vines, indigenous yeast, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaking couple: Piero Cella and Luciana Baso

Deep ruby with garnet rim. Roses bloom before your nose and as it opens butterfly lilacs, salt/sea breeze, figs, plums, cherries, and balsamic. Ok, maybe I’m crazy but it reminds me a little or Chef Stefano Baldantoni’s balsamic reduction which I am so in love with and could eat a vat. Tasting tart cherry mixed with that lovely balsamic reduction. There’s also blood orange zest, dried figs, dried oregano, salt, dates, and a dark, deep velvety richness. As it continues to grow…sweet, fragrant, smooth fine silk that’s not a princess…it’s a regal, rich, well dressed queen that in the end is draped in heavy tapestry garments.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sweet and smooth

When we can travel again, my frequent flier points are definitely leaning toward Italy (sorry Spain even though you know how much I love you). How many Sardinian wines (this is my 4th Quartomoro) have I fallen for and this 100% Carignano really pulls me. I have a huge thing for Carignano from being at times a blending grape to an elevation and respect of a solo, which is what Piero and Luciana are doing with their Memorie di Vite project. This grape is so fragrant and has such depth when grown and treated right. Quartomoro’s ungrafted pre filloxera vineyard (in Sulcis) was originally planted back in 1967 (before I was born) by a family friend and has zero chemicals messing with it. What a exquisite expression they’ve managed to capture through love and care of this historic, native grape. Ok, that does it. I’m changing my Babbel subscription back to Italian, and when the time comes my bags will be packed. Ciao!

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Fasten Your Seat Belt!

Swick Wines
Bring It
American Red Wine 2019
fbib
33% Pinot Noir, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 15% Graciano, 4% Syrah, 4% Nebbiolo, 4% Mourvèdre, 4% Grenache, 4% Cabernet Franc
Columbia Valley, AVA Willamette Valley AVA
Oregon/Washington blend. Fermented separately and blended. Whole Cluster ferments (except for Cab Sauv).
Organic & practicing organic
Bottled & produced Newborn, OR
Winemaker: Joe Swick

A lightly chilled shining ruby glass, and fasten your seat belts because you’re about to go on a ride through your senses. Fragrances of roses and natural funk to start leading into strawberries, smoke, salt, plums, tangy cherries, and the whole is dark/smooth and changing fast…vanilla pops up and funk fleeing but there’s still dark and some forest floor. A taste explosion! It’s lighter than smells, but still has weight. Here’s cherry, lots of multiple citrus zest, smoke, strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, a touch of the dark side (embrace it) and as it grows…blueberries and fun natural funk and bleeping vibrant.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooths out the funk

Yes, it FBIB! This super drinkable Swick drops the mic. It’s smashable, mashable, and hard to put down. I’ve had a lot of Swicks, and they always leave me so happy. Maybe it’s because of, well in Joe’s own words: “Our philosophy is to make our wines as naked and raw as we possibly can while having them be fun and delicious.” Naked and raw…I like that! “Bring It” covers two states worth of grapes exclusively sourced from organic growers. It’s like you’re on a little road trip visiting all the vineyards in a single glass, and it’s all brought to you by Joe’s low intervention cellar. You don’t even need to worry about filling the car up, but you can always bring along snacks for the ride!

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This Little Piggy Went…

Costador Terroirs Mediterranis
Metamorphika 2019
D.O. Catalunya
Catalunya, Spain
100% Chenin Blanc
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested, unfined, unfiltered, indigenous yeasts, and a really cool clay bottle
Winemaker: Joan Franquet

Pure gold with a little hint of orange from the skin contact and some sediment hanging and floating. Breathing in honeydew, honeysuckle, just picked cucumbers, salt, lime, tangerine, smoke, vanilla, some caramel, and almonds. Whew that was a lot. Now sipping cantaloupe and honeydew, smoke, salt, lime, almond, and a bit of my granny’s pound cake packed with real creamy butter. Was so good the next morning for breakfast with bacon which would be so good now with this glorious glass!

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: they love each other in harmony

Joan Franquet’s mountainous organic vineyards range in altitudes (400 to 800 meters), terroirs, and age. This Chenin Blanc sits at 550 with 2.5 hectares of 70 year old vines which is a youngster compared to his 110 year ones. Originally planted by a farmer by requirements of Torres, and later used by a co-op before Joan found this abandoned vineyard, nursed it back to life, and in the future looks to plant more (from these same old vines) since this wine is so popular. Also, they have another bit of competition for these grapes. WILD BOARS! Hand harvesting is done the 2nd week in September because those scary yet delicious creatures can eat 30% of the grapes. Trust me, pigs are nothing to scoff at. Have you ever been chased by an angry mama one? Let’s just say, don’t try to pet the piglets.

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A True Classic

Buli
515 S.L.M. 2016
Toscano Sangiovese IGT
Trequanda, Siena, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Organic and hand harvested in small baskets
Founder and owner: Robert Buly
Enologist: Diego Ciurletti
Agronomist: Alessandro Gemini
Cantina Chief: Stefano Censini

Shiny garnet/ruby glass that is a welcome start to my evening. Enchanting and yummy scents of deep cherry, vanilla, chocolate chips like in the fresh baked cookies you’ve pulled pulled open. Let it keep breathing plums and orange zest appear. A touch of salt like a breeze. Stop laughing this isn’t a potato chip commercial. I’m not on the “Cape.” This is from the hilltop where the grape is born. Now sipping cherries, prunes, dried figs and dates. There’s a dark depth but not an overly heavy wine, nor light. I’m happily floating in the medium realm. Now I’m also getting baker’s chocolate and chicory and as I exhale post sip…that taste of fine cigar smoke. Who doesn’t love one every once in a while. Now as I’ve spent the evening with this bottle’s last glass, it comes to a sweet smooth cherry end.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out blueberry/cherry mix and a more velvet feel that grows yet still that pinch of chicory at end.

This is my 5th Buli wine and my 2nd 515 S.L.M. When I was introduced to my first bottle, the wine just spoke to me and then their history made me fall in love. Ok, the tales didn’t sway my delight in each bottle because every one has proven their merit and deliciousness. This Sangiovese is a classic beauty that has a daring side. As I sip, it reminds me of John Singer Sargent’s, “Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau)” and her elegance, beauty, and flirtatious confidence (minus the scandal). This wine is a reputable beauty that’s not on a pedestal but on Podere Collalto’s “high hill”.

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A Wine of Two Songs

United Colors of Wine
Luci Rosse 2019
Field blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rondinella with some white grapes (15%) like Garganega and Trebbiano
Mantova, Lombardia (near Garda’s Lake), Italy
Chemical free, organic, Guyot training, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Light bright reddish glass. Tart cherries and young hay tickle my nose. Next there’s smoke, raspberries, and orange zest. Oh and I forgot to add before getting on in there chill it, chill it good. Here comes the fun tastes of tart tingling cherries, strawberries (fresh and jammed), plum cobbler, smoke and some sizzle. Then lemons, tangerine, cloves, and a black and white pepper zing. Light, refreshing, so good chilled and has me longing for warmer climes and sun tan lines.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: smooth sizzle with no hay

Yesterday, I wrote about this dream team, having fun with their collaboration in United Colors of Wine – “G-Ray”, and their very varied backgrounds so for that please go to https://worldbyglass.com/a-little-natural-fun-experimentation/ bc I wrote whole lot that got edited to death on IG. I love that Luci is a big blend of native grapes (red and white) from the area. In a way they’re taking a chance but on the other hand they are so knowledgable and have a groove with the grapes they have it under control. It’s kind of freestyle meets punk, yet with a classically trained hand. Yeah, this is definitely a wine that sings and makes it’s presence and emotion known. There are so many songs that flit through my head to this wine, but there’s two that stand out and show how Luci grows over time. Both are Nick Cave, and It starts as Grinderman – “Bellringer Blues” and in the end is Nick Cave and Warren Ellis – “Push the Sky Away”. Such a beautiful wondrous wine.

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A Little Natural Fun Experimentation

United Colors of Wine
G-Ray
Pinot Grigio Ramato 2019
100% Pinot Grigio
Vicenza, Veneto, Italy
Chemical free, organic but not certified, old school Pergola training, 10 day skin contact, indigenous yeasts, unfined, and unfiltered
Winemakers: Andrea Marchetti and Antonio “Billy” Camazzola (Vigne del Pellagroso)

Unscrew that cap and it’s a glass of Blood Orange rose. BTW this is another of those bottles you need to fully read the label because it tells you not to serve too cold and let it breathe a while. Trust me, do it. As it breathes more scents start emerging. There’s orange, a dozen roses mixed with tiny white flowers, and oddly it stirs a happy memory of rock candy. Also a splash of spice like coriander and Turkish oregano. Oh I’m really looking forward to the tasting. Here comes tangerine, orange, there’s some good funk happening, a lick of granite, and now more fruit! It’s cherryplumilicious, orange jolly rancher, it’s both luscious and dry and is a fun light tangy party in my mouth. Yep, I said it and own it…in my mouth.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: beautiful. Tames everything into an elegant sip.

I feel overwhelmed and in awe of the amount of info I’m reading about both Andrea and Billy. Wow, two passionate, serious yet fun loving, and natural winemakers brought together to collaborate through Andrea’s “United Colors of Wine”. Where to even start…I guess Andrea, he seems to be one of those non stop energetic wine lovers that went down the path to be a winemaker. Also he dreamed up “Vinessum” an artisan wine fair which led to his collaboration with “Blu Nautilus” and then also the “Back to the Wine” fair, and prior worked as a blogger where he came up with the term #nogomma which denotes refusing any industrial intervention in the vineyard or cellar (so it’s all about keeping it natural). When does this man rest? And now here’s Billy melding into this dream team. He started small when he was still in the restaurant business. Found a little bit of land that needed a LOT of love, and worked hard at making this chemical free. His “Vigne del Pellagroso” name also came from nearby where a long gone newspaper. Il Pellagroso was only around from 1884 to March of 1885, when it was shut down due to their director being arrested for being on the side of human rights, justice and proper working conditions which stirred up local farmers to strike. Needless to say the  govt. wasn’t happy. It’s a fitting name for Billy’s wine since he’s so dedicated to biodynamic, organic and bucking the norm. He’s expanded over time, still kept it green and natural and with the 2020 harvest he is certified! Now these two buds get to play/experiment (well work) in Billy’s cellar and come up with beautiful, natural, and very delicious wines.

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A Good Slow Burn

Wandering Barman
FOMO
Sling made with vodka
20% ABV
Ridgewood, NY
Mixmasters/founders: Julian Mohamed, Roxane Mollicchi, and Darren Grenia

This is one dark oro cocktail. So many scents! There’s turmeric, hot pepper, pineapple, sweetness like sugar cane (if you grew up in the south you know what I mean, and chewing it fresh), a little apples, maybe coriander. It’s an inviting tropical encounter. Shaking it around in the ice and then kicking a little back and there’s a turmeric/pineapple hot and sweet/sour mix. The hot pepper lingering in the back grows and grows and slow burns and then keeps firing back. Oh, here comes one more…a very light candied apple. This is just so deliciously fragrant, and I could totally use this recipe to soak chicken in before slow cooking. Yeah, this is going to be a repeat order for me.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: cough makes the heat explode cough cough…water please

This is my second from Wandering Barman, and I’m impressed. Like I said in my previous post, I had questioned cocktails in bottles. So used to sitting at the bar, and having them mixed by people I knew at my local, which I miss. Well, FOMO is a great stunt double at home, the only thing you’re missing out on is the conversation. I think it’s time to pull out the fancy glasses, Skype a few friends, and have a virtual happy hour. Cheers!

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A Town in an Organic Bottle

Celler Batea
Sense 2019
100% Garnatxa Negre
Batea, Terra Alta, Spain
Organic, vegan, unfined, unfiltered, and native yeasts
Winemaker: Judith Folch

A glass of deep cheerful ruby. First sniff and there’s cherries and plums. Next is cinnamon/cloves and as it warms some honeysuckles, magnolias but delicately hiding in the background, and vanilla. It’s dreamy! Oh here’s juicy cherries, plums, raspberries and blueberries just dancing on my tongue along with a hint of super dark chocolate. There’s also a bit of anise. Wrap me in velvet. As much as I’d like to say a Snuggie, this is more refined and deserves a royal robe, some slippers, and a roaring fireplace.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Doesn’t change except makes all deeper

I got quite a surprise when I started looking into Celler Batea. It wasn’t a family run winery, but a co-op and a town that has a long history. This tale goes back as far as the Phoenicians and their trade route, but truly was sparked later in the 1950s. Wine was becoming more and more important financially, so winemakers/farmers bonded together…101 of them! I can only imagine how at first it must of been like herding cats. Eventually they got Celler Batea, up and running while still tending their own vines, and by 1961 were rewarded with their first vintage. Now there are 208 in the bunch and 250 hectares, and all of them take great care to keep it organic. That must be such hard work but shows such a pride and love of Terra Alta and its produce. Celler Batea has continued to listen to voices of change and in 2019 had their first wines with no added sulfites, in their Sense Blanca and Garnatxa Negre. And as I can attest, the Negre rocked my world, but you don’t have to take my word, they ended up with two gold medals: Gilbert & Gaillard, 2019 and Catalan Wine and Cava Contest, Girovi 2020, and I won’t be surprised if there are more to come.

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It’s Alive!

Domaine Didon
Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Pinot Noir
Chassey-le-Camp, Côte Chalonnaise, France
Biodynamic, whole bunch fermentation, and vineyard is worked by horse and hand
Winemakers and owners: Naïma and David Didon

Bright shimmering purple with garnet sparks. Breathing in cherries, blueberries, a little smoke, a blend of rosemary, savory, and tarragon. Also leather motorcycle chaps. I used to have the best pair, and wonder where they are today. Would they fit? Yes. Would it work in my new world…hmmmm…maybe. Back to tasting the wine and there’s sweet berries, blueberries, strawberries, tingly tart cherry with a little burn that mellows and again tarragon and rosemary for a moment at the end. It’s just a burst of flavor that’s light and fragrant and so very alive. It seems like a call to Spring and giving a finger to Punxsutawney Phil.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: bouncy juicy fruit

David Didon’s biodynamic tale starts with a simple class in school when he knew he was interested in organic farming. All it takes is a little spark like that and look at him and his wife Naïma now. They have their own little historic plot after buying a farm in  Chassey-le-Camp in Côte Chalonnaise. Now there were twists and turns on that road. Working on varying farms, learning from mentors, David declining military life by being a conscientious objector, working and learning more in the organic/bio wine world, and eventually making his way to Beaune and his future wife. Their little 2 ha lieu-dit, is fully biodynamic and no tractors allowed. This is a horse and hand operation, just like the days of old. Cellar keeps to “hands off” as much as possible and NO added sulphur, which I dearly love. Stay true to the land, stay true to the fruit and stay true to life!

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A Young, Bright “Heavenly Sky”

Mother Rock Wines
Force Celéste
Cinsault 2019
W.O. Swartland
Swartland, South Africa
Organic, dry-farmed, native yeasts, unfined and unfiltered
Winemaker: Johan Meyer, AKA “Stompie”

Beautiful stained glass window ruby color. Fragrant roses, magnolias, cherry, and lots of spice still sorting and part of it is cinnamon. Also funk and hay and someone has turned on the wood smoker. Wonder what’s in there cooking. Now onto the taste…tart cherry, fuuuunky natural hay, hay, hay. Orange peel, young plums, skittles – taste the rainbow, black and white pepper, and tingle brightness with dry finish.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: kills the hay

Mother Rock Wines is Johan Meyer’s (Stompie) collaboration with UK importer Ben Henshaw of IndigoWines, and after doing a long search on him, he’s as about as natural as they come…resembling some of the “dudes” I went to college with back in Athens. He now has gotten his hands on his own farm and planting his own vines (hoping for fruit for the 2023 vintage), but this Cinsault came from other reliable organic sources. He also has a penchant for whole bunch pressing or fermenting and native yeasts which explains all that super natural hay. It must be truly exciting for him to now full out own his own land, to work it, and to introduce the first vines to this clean fresh land. Looking forward to following his new venture/adventure and taste his little part of Swartland.

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