Pairs With Piggy

Joostenberg Wines
Myburgh Bros.
Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2024
W.O. Paarl
100% Chenin Blanc
Organic, dry farmed
Paarl, South Africa
Tyrrel and Philip Myburgh (5th gen)

Light starlight twinkle twinkle yellow with a green gleam. Breathing in ripe & round apples & pears, peaches of all sorts, lemon/lime/tangelo squeeze, maybe a hint of peat/earth…hmmm, and a mineral/slate scent that turns into a bit of chalk. All of the scents are there in the taste but the fruits grow (especially loving the peaches), tiny lick of mango that makes me want bbq eel, and also that chalk/mineral vibe. Actually this lovely glass has me craving Southern bbq piggy.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just don’t

Joostenberg has been in the Myburgh family since 1879, and has always been into mixed farming along with winemaking but for some reason in 1947, they decided to pull back from the making but kept up with the growing and selling their grapes to a local co-op. Thankfully in 1999, Tyrrel & Philip (brothers) decided to dive back in and they didn’t just stop there. As in their family tradition they still kept farming and continued to branch out with their deli providing free range & organic products from their farm or locally sourced. They also have a specialized butchery (started in 1997), beautiful seasonal flowers for any occasion, fresh vegetables & herbs, a bistro, their courtyard restaurant Kraal, a kids & family welcome Picnic Style Eatery, and at last their beautiful event venue that can handle 10 to 300 people. Wow, you would think it would be more than enough to keep a family busy, but turns out they also created a wine project (MAN Family Wines) with José Conde of Stark-Condé Wines which is named after their wives’ initials: Marie, Anette and Nicky. With all of these plates spinning at once, I’m impressed & exhausted on their behalf. Raising my glass to this busy bee family. Cheers!

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A Small Delicacy

Domaine des Aubuisières
Vouvray AOC
Brut
100% Chenin Blanc
HVE3 certification, organic
Loire, France
Charles and Menehould Lesaffre

Warm gold with active little bubbles tracing images on the surface. Inhaling an elegant mix of pears (fresh & baked), Fuji & Red Delicious apples, nectarines, white peaches, a gentle reminder of my mom’s lemon squares that were properly cooked & not eggy like other overcooked ones I’ve had, and light honeysuckle blooms. First sip wakes up my mouth with a zing. All of the scents are there in the taste with a tiny drop of citrus tingle. Just crisp, fresh and very addictive.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NO

I’m a bit of a magpie when it comes to labels, or at least I love to pay attention to details like this little long beaked bird flying in from the side. I became familiar with this feathered friend, the Bécasse aka Eurasian woodcock, from one of my favorite authors, Martin Walker & his series “Bruno Chief of Police” set in Dordogne, France. Bruno not only solves mysteries/crimes, but he is also an amazing chef. He dearly loves to hunt (along with his Basset Hound) Bécasse and share them with his friends. In “The Dark Vineyard”, during one of his dinner parties, he explains that when the birds are flushed out of the brush & take flight their stomach completely evacuates so this fat tube is a delicacy. Cooked it softens, turns creamy and is supposed to be delicious spread on a baguette. Bruno also grills the birds split down the middle with the head & beak still attached, and some find the “charred head” to be their fave to eat whole…just don’t munch on the beak. 🥂

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Clink Clink

Domaine de L’Oubliée
Le Bruit Des Glaçons 2023
VDF
Chenin Blanc
Organic, indigenous yeasts, hand harvested
Saint-Patrice, Loire, France
Winemaker: Xavier Courant

Shining light gold/yellow with a delicate splash of green. Just poured and there’s a toasty scent that morphs into bees wax with honey, golden delicious apples, firm pears, dry lemon & lime twist, and a bit of greenery. Sip and there’s lemon & lime squeeze joined with zest, another taste and out comes crisp apples & pears, quince, a lfew fresh clover leaves & blossoms, an echo of that honeycomb wax along with a mineral taste like from our old spring house (our natural water source back home as a kid. It was cool year round and the same fresh smell & taste). Such lovely fruit but so deliciously dry, and it’s meant to drink very cold in the morning, in the afternoon, or in my opinion anytime at all.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Amps all of the fruit

My first encounter with Domaine de L’Oubliée’s wines was their Les Valseuses 2018 (back in 2020) where I found out about Xavier Courant’s love for the work of Bertrand Blier. Each of his wines are named for Blier’s films or books that speak to the grapes. This bottle Le Bruit Des Glaçons “The Sound of the Ice Cubes” is named for Blier’s 2010 film (English title “The Clink of Ice”). Charles an alcoholic & depressed writer gets a surprise visitor at his gate early one morning. The stranger greets him through the security monitor with “Hello, I am your cancer. I thought it might be nice to get to know each other a little bit…”. Oh why is it so hard to find Blier’s movies in USA/online?  I am dying (pun intended) to find a copy of this dark comedy streaming somewhere so I can see how they get on with each other, Charles’ beloved bottles (hence the clink clink), and how these “buddies” end up. If anyone knows of such a place PLEASE send me the link, and I’ll share a bottle (or 2) of this dry Chenin Blanc with you while we watch. I promise you it rocks!

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Lingering Over The Last Glass

Domaine de La Taille aux Loups (Jacky et J.P. Blot)
Brut Tradition
100% Chenin Blanc
Certified organic, indigenous yeasts, no sugar, hand harvested
Montlouis-sur-Loire, France
Jean-Phillipe Blot

Golden shine with fine bubbles. Sniff and up floats a little croissant or toasty pastry, a zesty bit of lime, lemon cream pie, as it grows there’s also an apple blossom or 2, apple/pear baked, and a scratch of tangelo zest. Sipping…it’s tickling & tingling on my tongue with all of the scents, a crisp & bright clean mineral/stainless elegance, lemon & lime keep dancing but more than just zest with a smidge of kumquat, and on the very back a bit of poached pear or actually maybe quince…yeah, it’s quince. It’s a glass of pure celebration.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t

Many years ago Jean-Phillipe joined his father in winemaking at the age of 16, and now he is at the helm after his father’s passing in 2023. I never had an opportunity to meet him but through this bottle I think I have a glimpse into his dream. Found out that earlier in his life he was a paratrooper, and thanks to his brother was turned on to wine which led to being a wine broker and then his curiosity and passion led him to become a winemaker. In the late 80s, he picked up 8 ha in Montlouis-sur-Loire (Domaine de La Taille aux Loups) and focused not on Vouvray but Chenin Blanc. There were ups and downs but his resilience and determination paid off. He became an acclaimed winemaker, one of the finest in Loire, and a champion of Chenin Blanc. As brilliant of a wine figure he was, there are so many words people use to describe him in tribute..he’s generous, friendly, welcoming, so very kind, wanting to share his knowledge & joy of tastings, and he was so loved by so many. I’m down to my last glass, savouring it and raising it as a salute to Jacky & also J.P. as he carries on the traditions. 🥂

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A Bottle Can Change Your Life

Domaine De L’ange Vin
Opera du Vin
Fêtembulles 2022
VDF
Pét-Nat
100% Chenin Blanc
Natural, organic, unfined & unfiltered
Loire Valley (Jasnieres – Coteaux du Loir), France
Jean-Pierre Robinot & family

During the pour looks like a lager with a big head and as the fizz calms down it’s just a lovely yellow gold with tiny bubbles. Sniff and floating up are brioche & a toasty comfort, pears & apples both fresh & baked, cool spring house smell, light honeysuckle, a squish of mandarin, lemon, & lime, and green spring shoots. Sipping and those apples & pears again but much more crisp with a light brioche bite, lemon/lime crisp, tiny pop of mango & maybe even a little bit of pineapple, mineral water salt/spritz, and a savory twinge of ginger.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: mmmm delicious

Mr. Robinot didn’t grow up in a family that had a vineyard to inherit. Bitten by the wine bug at 22 by a special bottle that rerouted his life path. In Paris he also found like minded friends, and over time opened the natural wine bar L’Ange Vin & started a wine magazine (Le Rouge et Le Blanc) with a friend. So I guess it would only be natural that he would want to take his passion further by making his own wines. He was still juggling time with the bar and taking the train back and forth to his hometown Chahaignes. Eventually his vines & land won his full attention, and the family (wife Noella & daughter Juliette) moved back to his roots. Now they have two wine lines, “Domaine de L’Ange Vin” that’s created from grapes he nurtured is on his own land & “Opera du Vin” made with fruit sourced from friends. Oh and Juliette has joined her father in the vines and also in their artistic creations which you’ll find on their labels that are eye catching & beautiful and of course attract magpies like me. Cheers! 🥂

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Cartwheel Worthy

Domaine Jacky Marteau
Lulu
Crémant de Loire
Touraine Val de Loire
Chenin Blanc 1/3, Cabernet France 1/3, Chardonnay 1/3
Sustainable
Pouillé, France
Ludivine (Lulu) Marteau

Light golden pale starlight twinkling with fine active bubbles. First sniff and it’s creamy with a touch of bakery goodness, pears (baked and fresh), round apples, a touch of pineapple, some Easter flowers along with fresh rained on slate, over time a squish of tangelo & lemon, and a fresh salt breeze. Sipping away and that cream appears again with a tart bit of fun, pears & apples are joined with a little welcome honeysuckle (is that an incoming bee I hear?), teeniest bit of pineapple, lemon/lime spark & a little zest, and a nice lick of a mineral river rock.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: absolutely delicious

Domaine Jacky Marteau is a lovely 4th generation family business & their namesake comes from Ludivine’s father who took over in 1977, and brought them from bulk sales to bottles & eventually exports. Lulu & her brother Rodolphe came on board in the 2000s post vine studies & some life/work experiences, and eventually began running the winery in 2010. Now, Lulu is in charge of this show & if her personality is anything like this sparkler…she must be bubbly, fun, brings a smile to everyone in the room, a bit of a romantic & a flirt at the same time, and pure innocent (well maybe not always so innocent) exuberant joy! 💋 Can you tell how much I love this glass? Makes me want to do cartwheels. 🤸🏻‍♀️Wheeeee!

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Giving Back For The Future

HER
Chenin Blanc 2022
Sustainable, grapes sourced from single vineyard site of Worcester
Western Cape, South Africa
General Manager & Winemaker: Praisy Diamini
Consultant Winemaker: Natasha Williams
Viticulturist: Ruth Faro
Logistics: Jody-Ann Appollis
Accountant: Janine Goosen
Production Clerk: Nichole van Wyk
Quality Manager: Verna Ross

Dance that yellow brick road gold. Breathing in pears, peaches, pineapple, a few slices of overripe cucumbers, apricots, and a blend of citrus. Taking a sip and it’s all of the above, along with nectarines, grapefruit squish, lychee, Golden Delicious & a bit of Granny Smith apples, and a few blades of grass.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: so smooth

This is my 2nd bottle by HER, & I want to make sure everyone knows about these incredible women so I’m going to repeat myself. Every single one of them are important to the whole entity. As they say on their site,  “Each of us brings our skills, our heritage, our energy and our expertise. The HER Wines Team is comprised of a group of black women who, by grabbing at opportunity, working hard and relying on each other, have stepped into the world of business, previously unattainable to our families, particularly the women.” They also know the importance of giving back, and are setting aside 2% of their profits toward a scholarship for the driven, talented & passionate children from families that work with the vineyards where HER sources their grapes. Who knows, some of these young ones may be the next big winemakers that we’re all chasing for their next bottle in the future. ❤️

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Beautiful, Romantic & Bubbly

Château Moncontour
Tete de Cuvée Brut
100% Chenin Blanc
Vouvray AOC
Méthode Traditionnelle
Vouvray, France
Owners: Feray family

Gold bullion warm with fine lively bubbles. Pop the cork in the kitchen and scents of vanilla and “hot & ready” old school Krispy Kreme doughnuts hit your nose first. Give it a little time, walk back to the bedroom to relax with your pour, and tasting bits of brioche that lead to apricots fresh & a little jam emerge with dried pineapple & golden raisins…mmm elegant & cozy. Sip and again apricots (dried & fresh), dried pineapple, a splash of young tart yellow plums, Nilla wafers, and a bright lime twist. Toasty and zippy delight.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sharpens everything

Bubbly is so often seen as romantic…a thing of beauty…and so is this historic Château. King Charles VII of France gifted it to his very influential “Dame de beauté”, Agnès Sorel. (Have you seen the paintings of the lady and designs of the tops of her dresses to give you a peek at what may be waiting for you? Ooh la la, they are quite titillating!) Honoré de Balzac fell in love with the structure and so badly wanted to own it and share it with his wife & inspiration, Ewelina Hańska. Sadly buying it was out of the picture, so he memorialized it in “La Femme de trente ans”. Now the Feray family are caring for the domaine, cherishing its history, and creating their celebrated wines so we can all taste a bit of that romance. 🥂

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Classy Sassy Primitive

Domaine Sébastien David
Primitif 2020
VDF
100% Chenin Blanc
Pét-Nat
Organic, biodynamic
Grapes from Loir-et-Cher
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France
Winemaker: Sébastien David

Warm yellow golden. Sniffing a little funky nature that needs to breathe and opens to brioche, pears, mellow melon, round apples with a lemon & tangelo sparkle, salt, and a mineral rockiness. Sipping pretty pears, apple, a little chalk that hides and waves back at you here and there, lemon squeeze sizzle, honeydew, and toasted breakfast baguette with a little warm of some comfortable spice that has my lips tingling and plumping. Fresh, crisp, friendly and looking for a night looking toward the moon (you know like what Sébastien does with his wines).

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: brings out a cider feel

Well, this is a surprise! A Chenin Blanc sparkly from the man known for Cabernet Franc. It may be a different grape but you can feel his winemaking “Hurluberlu” hand (or hands off) in this bottle. So now I wonder about the name, “Primitif”. Is it due to the méthode ancestrale, or the way he  looks back to the past generations (he’s 15th) for guidance and techniques, even though he always has had his eye on the future with going biodynamic and permaculture. Whatever the naming decision, this bottle is pretty darn classy & sassy for a primitive.

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Butterfly Kisses

Famille Bonnin
La Croix des Loges
Anjou Blanc Sec 2021
100% Chenin Blanc
Anjou Blanc AOC
Sustainable, Terra Vitis certification, HVE 3
Martigné-Briand, Loire, France
Winemakers: Jean-Christian and Sophie Bonnin

Pale or even icy yellow green (Can you tell I’m still in the middle of a heatwave? Embracing anything icy even if in color.) Cool and fresh scents of apricots, peaches, little spring blossoms, wet granite, and mellow pear. Sip and it’s light, easy and not overly well everything. Kind of like butterfly kisses…it just gently wakes your tongue to those apricots again, peaches, pear, some honeydew straight from the cooler, a fresh twinge of citrus/tangerine spark, and a lick of that wet granite again. Just simply beautiful…

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: Gives it a kick! I like this one both ways.

The Famille Bonnin have deep roots (ok bad vine pun) to Martigné-Briand, dating back to 1920, and they’ve stayed on the wine track all these years. The current generation has kept up their momentum and passion through traditions, modernizing, and proving their love for their environment with certification & transparency. As it says on Steep Hill Imports’ site, their manifesto is “Life is beautiful!“, and this bottle will melodically remind you by each glass. On a personal note, this was a much needed nudge because I’ve had some crazy things thrown my way lately. Famille Bonnin, thank you for turning my vision back to the simple elegance of finding happiness in the little things in life. ❤️

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