“Get On Your Bikes And Ride”

Tenuta San Marcello
Movimento 2021
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico
100% Verdicchio
Organic, sustainable, and indigenous yeasts
Marche, San Marcello, Ancona, Italy
Winemaker: Massimo Palmieri

Golden spun hay. Breathing in pears, pineapple, mango, citrus oomph (like a good IPA), a little hey, hey, hay & cool wet slate, and a little mace with a smidge of crushed coriander. Sipping and here comes ripe fat bottomed pears, mango, pineapple splash, on the exhale a little fresh oregano, then next up are yellow ripe plums & a little twang that the skins give (just enough not overpowering), and after time a sliver of starfruit. Fresh, easy going, and I could sip this all afternoon swaying in a hammock under a tree.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: goes musky and loses the finesse & beauty

Tenuta San Marcello’s wines have always been a delight. I’ve written before about how Massimo & Pascale Palmieri left the city for a country, natural lifestyle. Massimo did have a lot of wine studying to do, and reached out to a specialist in soil and crops and also an oenologist. Trial, error and reflection on his grandfather’s love of making wine for family and friends, spurred him on to his beautiful bottles filled with heart and emotion. You can also get a chance to experience this life/dream they’ve built through their “Agriturismo e Cantina con Cucina”. Stay a while, learn the organic/sustainable ways, have some traditional meals, and of course enjoy the wines or as they call it, “Magic potion that transforms people in more attractive ones and stupid ideas in brilliant ideas”. I love that quote. You also might even meet the donkeys, and if catch sight of the one on the label, please send me a pic, join in and “Get on your bikes and ride”!

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Enchanted Reality

Fattoria Corzano e Paterno
Il Corzanello 2021
Toscana IGT Bianco
Chardonnay 26% Sauvignon Blanc 20% Trebbiano 20%, Petit Manseng 13%, Verdicchio 15%, Semillon 6%
Organic, hand harvested
San Casciano, Firenze, Italy
Founded by Wendel Gelpke; now run by the extended Gelpke & Goldschmidt families

The lightest yellow green pale starlight. At first breathing in a little good floral funk that morphs into a little headiness and then lightens up into mellow pears, apples, a light blend of orange, lemon, grapefruit…citrus mix, and lychee. Sipping and all the scents are right there with a mineral conglomerate lick, along with ripe Kirbys (skins and all) green, a touch of light honeydew, honeysuckle, and a shake of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: sharpens everything

This is a story of friendship and families. The Niccolini family held the farm for generations but when it became time to sell… the Marchese wanted his friend Wendel to get first dibs. Now that is a good buddy in my books. Over time he & his sister (Katerina Goldschmidt)’s family took up house, brought in Sardinian sheep (fab for their vineyards & cheese), restored accommodations (perfect for an architect like Wendel), and most importantly began producing wine. Their original aim was to not bounce off in many differing venues but to create the best possible product & be self-sufficient. Look at them now with their acclaimed cheeses & award winning wines. Btw if you want to read a very detailed history of this land’s past-future, please read Susan Gepke-Doran’s tale of going from art historian to farmer’s wife. I love one of her early perceptions, “The estate seemed under an enchantment, a romantic ruin”. It’s a start to not a fairytale but the reality of a  beautiful life.

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Wine = Resource

Col di Corte
Anno Uno 2021
100% Verdicchio
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Biodynamic, organic
Montecarotto (AN), Marche, Italy
Giacomo Rossi & Claudio Caldaroni (winemaker)

Springy light gold with a green sheen here and there. Scents of peaches with a touch of heady magnolia, a blend of citrus popping, and what I think is a little puff of smoke. Sipping those fresh peaches along with pears, a honeysuckle drop, blend o lemon, lime & zest, a squeeze of lovely Valencia too and every time I lean back and exhale there is a flutter of fresh cut grass. So fresh, “so good, so good!”…oh noooo now I have that song stuck in my head. Fully admit it, I can’t stand “Sweet Caroline” and still have nightmares of getting pulled into that karaoke. 

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: delightful. Neil has left the building

Have you seen “Natural Resistance” (Jonathan Nossiter’s documentary)? I did a while ago, and revisited it after meeting this wine. Turns out Giacomo was a producer on this film and that experience had a sway in his organic/biodynamic choices. Early on in the film, there’s a great quote by Giovanna Tiezzi (Pācina Wine), “We’re midwives. Our power lies in respecting completely only what nature gives us and understanding nature’s time.” At Col di Corte they definitely let that respect guide them, their lands speak through wine, and acknowledge each harvest’s seasonal bliss or twists & turns on each label in weather symbols. These guys are proud of their collaboration with their environment…their part of Marche, and that they “produce wine with the intention of offering a resource (not a product)” and a delicious one at that. ❤️

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A Gift Through Generations

Fattoria San Lorenzo
…di Gino… 2018
Le Marche Region
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC
Montecarotto, Ancona, Italy
100% Verdicchio
Organic and biodynamic, and 6 months on the lees
Winemaker and owner: Natalino Crognaletti

Put a ring on it golden with an orange tinge. Crisp pops of tangerine, a little salt, pears, and dried apricots; all on the tip of my nose. It tastes a lot like it smells with the pear, citrus and smokey salt with addition of crisp apples; and as it warms up peaches and honey. Oh this is so lovely. It’s like when you get a new book from your favorite author (mine is Martin Walker), and as you turn the pages and get further in it just keeps getting better and better.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: makes all the flavors more bold

Natalino Crognaletti has a wonderful way of choosing names for his wines. “…di Gino…” is named in honor of his father who passed down the farm/winery to him. Others are for a dog, hares, the sun, and what I thought was maybe another word than “gattina” for kitten due to the image on the bottle, but as I searched, I discovered “La Gattara” pretty much means “cat lady”. Ah, “cat lady” a moniker I know well. Maybe this should be the next one I try. I digress. Back to “…di Gino…” which is made from the local Verdicchio clones that Gino selected for the vineyard after it was handed down to him from his father Enrico. This beautiful land is in the province of Ancona which is known for their towns of medieval fortresses. The town Montecarotto is one of these romantic medieval towns but it also has other more modern cultural interests. Their MAM Museo d’arte Moderna e Mail Art appears to be the only public mail art museum in Italy. A recent exhibition called “Le Disobbedienti” which is a tribute to Artemisia Gentileschi, Frida Kahlo, Charlotte Salomon, Berthe Morisot, Suzanne Valadon and Elisabeth Vigèe Le Brun; that included work from 150 artists from all over the world. Would have loved to have seen it in person.

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