“The Story Is Still Going On”

Barone di Villagrande
Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2023
Carricante 90%, other Indigenous Etna grapes 10%
Certified organic production (but they don’t shout about it)
Milo, Sicily, Italy
Marco Nicolosi

Shining yellow gold like I remember from a Cimabue viewed years before. Breathing in round ripe pears, a splash of lemon/lime, touch of grapefruit, lychee, mango, and a sprinkle of sage & oregano. All of the sniffs are in the sip with a dryness/sizzle along with golden delicious apples ripe & warm just picked from the tree, lick of a well washed over river rock/conglomerate, fresh grown sage and oregano. That dryness is still there with a weaving in and out of a bit of richness…or should I say moving in sync together like a couple tangoing around the room.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Back away from the bag!

The Nicolosi family’s connection to their lands date back to the 17th century but it was in the 18th when the Bishop of Catania came to them with a not so easy task to transform the wild, gnarly, difficult fields of Etna into a flourishing “delicious garden”. Guess they impressed the powers that be in 1727, and Emperor Charles VI of Augsburg, King of Naples, gave Don Carmelo Nicolosi the title of Baron of Villagrande. Over all this time passion for their territory and grape grew, new cellars were built, and a focus began on keeping the red and white grapes separate bucking the ways of old that just blended them all. They’ve kept growing in knowledge, passion, and just making the best darn wine they can. As they say on their site: “We wrote a fundamental page on the Etna wines history. The story is still going on.”

Side note: Do you want to combine a delicious & educational winecation with a bit of added pleasure? Check out their site and book one of their 4 rooms. Blend & immerse yourself with the history of the manor & local nature, bask in the sun, and of course view the vineyards while chilling in the infinity pool. Oh, what I wouldn’t do to be there right now.

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Women Can Save The World

Al Feu
Insolia 2022
Terre Siciliane IGP
Organic, indigenous yeasts, unlined/unfiltered
Marsala, Sicily, Italy
Michele Castiglione

Golden amber pour. Sniff and it starts off with a crumb of toasted baguette that fades in & out, citrus blend with their zest, pears, sliver of Winesap apples, touch of honeysuckle & spring flowers, and a fresh running river mineral rock. First sip and WOW! All the sniffs are here but dancing in a smooth & more refined way, the rock gets a shake of salt too, and a little peat on the back. While tasting it’s almost more of an emotion…it’s serene yet quietly powerful…a moment of natural reflective peace & sense of place…am I nuts?

Pairs w Cheez-Its: don’t ruin the moment

Michele Rizzo (Michele’s grandfather) had a good sized estate but none of the children in the family were interested in taking it over. Well, fortunately Michele’s mom (Giuseppa Silvana) stepped up to the plate. Once it was time for Castiglione to hop on board he decided it was time for him to present a new brand called “Al Feu”…8 ha of vines & 2 more divided between pomegranate, olives, and other lovely things to harvest. Not going to lie, as most of you know I’m a magpie for really good art & especially pieces created for bottles. Al Feu’s labels celebrate nature & women, but I should let Michele’s words from Steep Hill’s site explain their artistic choice:

Nature is our greatest inspiration guiding our daily choices with her innate elegance” “The common theme you will find in our label is a pensive, thoughtful womanMen has urbanized the cities, paved the streets, destroying the mountains by taking away the marble, polluting the oceans & burning the forests/animals living there. We took possess of the land without caring of the consequences. We pretend to love animals & we use them in labs for experiments or we run them down under our tires”. “According to Michele only women & their awareness can save the world. ‘We need women to think what’s best for the mankind’.”

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Time To Belly Up To The Bar

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nero d’Avola
Sicilia DOC
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Deep dark cranberry purple. Breathing in plums, dark cherries, deep raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, fresh pine, and an alpine herbal minty blend. Tasting those plums & cherries again, boysenberry along with a blend of raspblueblackberry, and a twist of citrus zest (in particular mandarin orange).

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Juicy goodness

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. While I & a lot of us (during a certain time) were stuck at home, that was my way of getting out and about, but now we can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. It’s also what they call Madaudo’s “Welcome Room” where visitors can get a view of their “bottling & corking phases of the sparkling wine to give the right importance to the joy of tasting”. Come to think of it…out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Guess I’ll just have to continue my search here for these elusive bubblies until I finally find time to travel and belly up to the bar & meet one up close and personal. 🥂🍷

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Take Time To Smell The Roses Or Better Yet The Wine

Cantina Modica di San Giovanni
Felice Modica
Filinona 2020
Nero d’Avola
Eloro DOC
Noto (SR), Sicily, Italy
Modica family

Deep dark garnet. There’s scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, an Oreo cream center that eases off and fades, bell pepper, dates, dried figs, and as it opens a rich tapestry of them all with sage & rosemary woven in with the rest. Sipping away and again cherries & plums along with raspberries, blackberries, cranberry, pomegranate, a reminder of an apple tree twig I’ve whittled and chewed on as a kid, twinge of bell pepper, dark olives, and a little bramble.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just lush

For over 200 years the Modica family has farmed their lands (300+ ha) and tended to their olive & almond trees, citrus fruit, and their vineyards. Their wine “Filinona” is a nod to the beauty of the Sicilian language (recognized as a minority language by UNESCO) and of their tradition of a “siesta” or a daily time to rest in the while the sun is at its hottest. Honestly, I would love if we had that tradition here where it’s so easy to get caught up in work and not take time to stop and smell the roses or better yet a time to relax with a little wine. Maybe that is reason the Modica family are so productive with their wine, olive oil, beer “Passo di miele”, and as I discovered their Palazzo Modica. What a breathtaking historical place which over time has adapted in size and use due to the needs or wishes of the generations. While there still is a section that is private residence, there is also a more public side with a restaurant/pizzeria, a museum, event space, and now you can book a room to sleep in a blend of modern & antique luxury and for some a terrace with beautiful views of Noto. I can hardly think of anything more romantic than relaxing there under the twinkling stars raising a glass to history.

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Family Expansions

Cantine Madaudo
Barone di Bernaj
100% Nerello Mascalese  
Terre Siciliane IGT
Villafranca Tirrena, Sicily, Italy
Winemaking family: Rosario Madaudo (son), Alfio (dad), Andrea (uncle), Giuseppe (younger brother), and more

Shiny garnet glass. Scents of cherries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, pinch of vanilla that grows into dried figs & maybe dates too, touch of tomato leaves that turns into a smidge of drying tobacco leaves with a little smoke. Tasting again all sorts of cherries tart, tangy, fresh, dark & deep plums, young strawberries, raspberries, blackberries (seeds & all for that bite), and dried cranberries. It’s like a pinball bouncing around in the machine hitting flavors as it goes and it’s bright & fresh with a dryness on the back.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: delicious

Back in 1945, Rosario’s great grandfather started this venture with only a small farm and now it’s expanded into a full blown family affair of around 60 ha and several different collections that will take you, “Traveling through our Sicily through a glass”. You can do it like me from home on quite a few times now, or you can visit them in person at their wine bar “Palaverve“ connected to their Agrigento winery that from what I read features their bubbly bottles. Come to think of it out of all the wines I’ve tried from their lot not a single one was sparkling which means I’m truly missing out since they are so celebrated. Ah man, decisions…decisions…what am I to do? Hop a plane or find a way to get one to fly to me. 🥂✈️

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A Permanent Home In My Heart

Morgante
Rosso 2020
100% Nero d’Avola
Sicilia DOC
Grotte (Agrigento) Italy
The Morgante Family: Antonio (father), Carmelo & Giovanni (sons)
Winemaker: Riccardo Cotarell

Deep ruby. Breathing in plums, cherries, raspberry, blackberry, a creamy frosting bit lightly floats by joined by a raisin, and a little blend of pine, eucalyptus & thyme. From the first sip it’s a very alive jumble of all the scents with a bigger bunch of blackberry, strawberry,  cranberry, black tea, a dark blueberry or maybe dried strawberry, and wild fennel. This is delicious but it has me craving a Thanksgiving sandwich. Yum!

Pairs with Cheez-Its:  it’s complicated

When I started really learning about wine, Nero d’Avola enchanted me and has a permanent home in my heart. I love that it can be dressed up and on the town with a good rare steak with balsamic reduction, lamb chops, and a good cheese board (drunken goat, pecorino, etc); or you can chill and have it on the front stoop munching on a gyro & sausages from the cart down the street. This wine isn’t a snob but it sure is a star, and it’s just another reason to book a trip to Sicily & find out more about the Morgante Family’s passion & dedication to this lovely grape. ✨✈️🍷

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“Reverse Migration”

Santa Tresa
Rina Russa 2022
Frappato Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Frappato di Vittoria
Organic & biodiverse
Sicily, Italy
Stefano and Marina Girelli (brother & sister)

Bright shining light cherry. There’s scents of cherries & blossoms, lilacs, raspberries, strawberries (and their caps & greenery), a little cola, and light orange zest. Tasting cherries of all sorts & tart ones too, raspberries, young strawberries, drop of blackberry, citrus bend & zest, tart dark & bright plums & pits, and it’s all just full of a lively spirit.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: brings out a smooth depth

Stefano & Marina, originally from Trentino, along with generations of their family in the wine business, fell for Sicily (in particular Vittoria) and as they called it they did a “kind of ‘reverse migration’ of coming from the North to the South, rather than the opposite way round”. Now not only do they have Santa Tresa but also Azienda Agricola Cortese. Brother & sis saw Sicily as a welcoming community built through history of differing cultures/countries that colonized, mixed, meshed and each contributed to the language, dialects, dishes, and the arts of all forms…and also in its wines. They celebrate the local grapes, reignite forgotten ones, work with traditions & still experiment to breathe new life into others, and let the land tell its unique tales through their bottles. ❤️

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Marriage Of Art & Wine

Tenute Orestiadi
Molino a Vento
Carricante 2022
Terre Siciliane IGP
Organic, biodynamic, native yeasts
Gibellina, Sicily, Italy

Bright very festive orange. Breathing in oranges, mandarins, Circus Peanuts, orange blossoms & other orchard blooms on a hot evening, a creamy Orangesicle touch or vanilla, magnolia headiness, and over time persimmons and kumquat join in. Sipping and it’s just like the scents and ALL the different oranges, fun orange and pineapple gummy bears, ripe pears, and a tart zest pop. This carricante is purely delicious and very chuggable.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: walk away from the bag and don’t ruin this wine

Back in 1968, the Belìce earthquake shook and crumbled Gibellina; but from the devastation an idea of necessity was born that became an inspiration for the future. A new city was planned a little away from the old ruins, and these designs/buildings have now grown over the years into a contemporary art destination both open air and indoors. Early on it was championed by Ludovico Corrao (politician, lawyer & art lover) who convinced artists to come & create, and also helped launch the Orestiadi Foundation which led to the Estate, and Tenute Orestiadi (Molino a Vento is their line of monovarietal wines with organic grapes). All of their work is a beautiful marriage of art, wine, exhibitions, and a festival including artists in all forms from visual, music, poetry, theater, etc. There’s also a very cool collaboration with the Brera Academy of Fine Arts to be found in the cellar where the barrels are now wooden canvases, “immersed in the suspended time of the slow evolution of wine, contemporary art finds a new temple” in the “Barriques Museum”. Orestiadi are building and preserving this “essence of contemporary stories”.

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Raised To Appreciate

Frank Cornelissen
Susucaru 2022
Rosato
Terre Siciliane IGP
Malvasia, Moscadella, Cattaratto, Nerello Mascalese
Organic, unfined
Etna (North Valley), Sicily, Italy

Deep magenta rose with a cork that gave me a battle, but I won. Scents start emerging of a blend of raspberry, strawberry & cherries, and it has a lot of depth. There’s also a straw of hay (that fades), smoke, black pepper, and orange & lemon squeeze and zest. Sipping and tart fruit flavors of cherry, blood orange & lemon, along with yellow plums, young strawberries, raspberries, red currants, watermelon Jolly Rancher, and a shake of white pepper. It’s crisp and glou glou worthy.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: NOPE

Frank Cornelissen’s father is who led him to fall in love with wine by letting him take a sip (at a young age), taught him to appreciate a good glass, and eventually let him start picking bottles at their local shop. Makes total sense that this Belgian would land in Sicily and purchase hectares of ungrafted vines on the slopes of Mt. Etna, and dedicate himself to working obsessively organic and as natural as possible. In fact, he’s so committed to his environment and all that live in it that his site also has instructions on how to go about recycling everything from the bottle, the closure, label, case and pallet. His “Susucaru” Rosato is a very special wine, not only for how delicious it is but also for its name. Turns out in their local Sicilian it translates to “they stole it” which happened to a good part of the grapes from Frank’s first vintage. I wonder if the thieves were 2 footed, 4 or of the winged variety. Hmmmm? 🤔

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Perfect Pairing/Partnership

Caruso & Minini
Terre di Giumara
Zoli
Inzolia
Terre Siciliane IGP
Sustainable
Sicily, Italy
Wine team: Stefano Caruso & Mario Minini (co-founders), and Giovanna & Rosanna (Stefano’s daughters)

Light yet bright yellow green shimmer. Breathing in peaches & their blossoms, magnolias & lillies, touch of melon, round pears & apples, oddly a fresh picked Scuppernong smell I remember from my grandfather’s vines, and a smidge of grapefruit. Sip, swish and here comes white peaches, a little honeydew, pears, a splash of pineapple & mango along with that floral again, lick of a mineral rock & it goes dry, citrus starts to emerge (lemon, lime, tangelo), a teeny bit of oregano.

Pairs with Cheez-It’s: perfect

The Caruso family had a history of cultivating grapes to sell, then later to bottle in the 90s, but it took the latest two generations (Stefano & his daughters) to step everything up. Also Stefano partnered up with Mario Minini (hence their winery’s name) & utilized his experience in sales & marketing to bring them to their current success. Now their wines reach more than 30 countries, and that’s pretty exciting since now we all have a chance to taste their bit of Sicily without having to board a flight. ✈️❤️

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