Prehistoric Lessons

Sylvain Bock
Raffut 2023
100% Syrah
VDF
Certified organic, biodynamic, indigenous yeasts
Alba-la-Romaine, Ardèche, France

Dark maroon/purple with a shimmer of magenta on the rim. Breathing in dried figs, deep cherries dried & fresh, strawberries & raspberries that go deep, whiff of cola, briny olives, violets, sprinkle of cinnamon, plums that grow & darken, a little boysenberry, and peaty smoke. All of the scents are in the taste with a lighter touch along with Niçoise olives, and zippy orange & lemon zest that is also a bit singed. Let this baby have a good long timeout, and you will be rewarded as everything blooms.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: it does but it’s better without

Honestly this is my first Sylvain Bock wine. Didn’t know what to expect, but when I saw on the back of the bottle the very recognizable logo of Super Glou (a cat, a dog & in between a bottle of wine) I knew it would be up my alley. They work with “small-production, low-intervention producers from France, Germany, Italy, Scandinavia, Catalunya, Chile and pockets of America”, and Bock fits that criteria perfectly. He’s a zero/zero natural winegrower & maker with a true passion for his craft, wine, vines, and of course land. From an IG post by @super_glou & @glougloumagazine during one of their visits to his vineyards they were not only taught a lesson in “wine growing but in prehistoric geology” which I bet was exciting and inspiring. Sylvain’s knowledge of the soils & what lies beneath & nourishes the lands (limestone, fossils, basalt, etc) guides his decisions on which grape will thrive & where. And if you have a moment to peruse his IG page, you’ll see he also slows down to appreciate & cherish what resides in his vineyards (or maybe they’re just stopping by for a visit)…flowers, ladybugs, and a post from just a few weeks ago of one special moment of finding a “little nest in the middle of the vineyards”. As Sylvain  says, “Nature always finds its place, even in winter”, and I see it as a sign of the beautiful spring & growth yet to come. 🪺❤️🍷

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“An Oasis Of Peace”

Azienda Agricola Pojer e Sandri
Palai Müller-Thurgau 2024
100% Müller-Thurgau
Natural winemaking
San Michele all’Adige, Faedo TN, Italy
Mario Pojer & Fiorentino Sandri

Light yellow with a green sheen. Sniff and there’s light peaches, grapefruit, grassy wild flowers along with white blossoms, peppergrass, and lemon zest. Sipping lemon, lemongrass, grapefruit,  peach but not overly fruity…kinda dry, kumquat, crabapple, sourgrass & a touch of peppergrass, lick of mineral, and s dash of salt.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Easy as pie

Back in 1975, Fiorentino inherited his family’s vineyards & Mario had graduated enological school, which sounds like a recipe for a perfect pairing… except some thought the lands might not be great. Boy did they prove the doubters wrong with their 1975 Palai Müller-Thurgau, and have continued as they grew from 2ha to so much more. In 1998, they were the first in Italy to market Chardonnay, then in 2002, they “patented the reduction and press vinification process with nitrogen recovery, which drastically reduces the use of sulfites” & started “washing the grapes in a grape jacuzzi” (I just love the image of 🍇 chilling in a jacuzzi), and in 2013, launched their Zero Infinito project which means, “Zero chemical treatments in the countryside, Zero sulfur dioxide, Zero commercial yeasts, Zero fining agents, Zero filtration, Zero antioxidants”. Along with their wines, they also produce grappas, fruit brandies & vinegars; and you can experience it all by booking a tasting or even better staying in one of their apartments on the farm nestled within the vineyards…or as they call it “an oasis of peace”. ❤️

Sharing Happiness

Domaine Beatrice et Pascal Lambert
Bulles Lambert 2022
Sparkling Rose
VDF
100% Cabernet Franc
Organic, biodynamic, hand harvested, vines & bottling guided by the lunar cycle
Les Chesnaies, Chinon, France
Winemakers: Beatrice & Pascal Lambert

Light pink gold with fine active bubbles. Immediately wafting up to my nose are strawberries, cream/oreo centers, raspberries, Bosc pears, and delicate tea roses. Sipping away and again there’s strawberry & raspberry, cranberry smidge joined by a lemon bubbly tingle, an exhale taste of that Oreo center again but not as much as in the scent, crisp and tart young pear that eases into the background. It’s clean, dry, crisp, so fresh & fun and don’t overthink it like I am. Just enjoy!

Pairs with Cheez-Its: Just don’t

At Domaine Beatrice et Pascal Lambert they have a refreshing philosophy:

“Farmers! Tomorrow, let’s cultivate life!!
And the earth will continue to smile.
And a smile produces a lot
Let us share this happiness together and we will guarantee love and peace on our planet Earth!!”

They share their happiness (and wine) with their crew, friends, and visitors alike. As they say a great estate needs a good team, and theirs is diverse. Eric handles business and is great dealing with the public, Fabien maintains the bio treatments for the vines, Paco is hands on with vine training, and not to be left off is Jelly the adorable dog. Now to the extended group of friends, family & others that want to join in the fun whether it’s with shears or hand harvesting. There’s Patrice (wine merchant) who helps harvest, Belgians that visit at the right time of the season, 2 different Jean-Maries, Vincent & Marie who are always ready to jump in, Polo who’s always been with the estate, and Ghislain who is a Michelin-starred chef because who wouldn’t want a fabulous chef by their side. Now I just have to ask, how do I get a chance to be on their team? Have nimble hands & would love to travel. Cheers!🥂

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A Common Thread

Brogalia
La Meirana 2023
Gavi D.O.C.G. del Comune di Gavi
100% Cortese di Gavi
Gavi, Italy
Brogalia family: current generation – Roberto & Fillipo (Piero’s sons), Bruno (Paolo’s son)

Shining yellow with a green sheen. Breathing in light grapefruit/tangelo, firm pears, white peaches, winter melon & a touch of honeydew, honeysuckle blossoms that later blend with jasmine, and a bit of mineral that is like fresh rained on pavers. What I’m sniffing is in the taste along with a splash of lime, white nectarines, and almonds that give it a dry fresh feel yet still fragrant. Simply lovely.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: just don’t

Before the Broglia family bought their estate “La Meirana” from Count Edilio Raggio in 1972, it had a long history dating back to at least June 3rd AD 972 as found on a lease stored in the l’Archivio di Stato di Genova. Two years after becoming the new owners, the Gavi DOC status was created and just in time for their first bottled wine. Later in 1998, it rose to DOCG. Now their lands are 100 ha in total, and 65 ha are vineyards (oldest are from 1950s) all of their celebrated Cortese. All along they have looked for ways to improve and innovate their grapes & winemaking. Along with renovating the winery, they have also worked with the University of Turin in clonal research and the University in Milan on sulfite-free wine production. All of this research and progress not only assists them in growth & higher quality wine…it also helps their neighbors and even all off us that have a chance to sip a glass from one of their classic bottles.

One more bit to add about this “family rooted in the heart of Gavi”, is a quote from their greeting video that sums up their passion and makes me smile. “We are all connected by a common thread, we love our land, we love the countryside, we love drinking wine, warm fireplaces, dogs, and a good bottle of wine.” Now that’s a beautiful life.

A Different Kind Of Romance

Odfjell Vineyards
Orzada 2020
100% Carignan
Organic, biodynamic, sustainable, native yeasts
Valle de Maule. Chile
Odfjell family’s latest generation: Laurence & Dan Jr.

Deep maroon with a shining rim. Right off the bat I’m sniffing raspberry, blackberry, cherry, followed by boysenberry, rosemary & thyme that turns into sassafras, and a little tingle of gooseberry & wild flowers. Tasting cherries (dark & tart, pits, skins and all), fresh picked blackberries & raspberries, plummy depth blending with a little raisin, boysenberry w lemon zest, dark cured olive pit taste that balances all, smidge of licorice on the back, and a sprinkle of good earth. It’s juicy, lovable and made me smile.

Pairs with Cheez-Its: BIG yes actually it has me craving an old school grilled cheese sandwich

Odfjell Vineyards came to life due to a Norwegian love story. No this is a romance between two lovers but of a man & the land that captured his heart. Dan Odfjell (Norwegian businessman, ship/tanker owner & builder) visited Chile and fell hard. Who wouldn’t? He loved it enough to embark on his wine journey that now includes 3 vineyards, a gravity-flow winery (1st in Chile), and they are biodynamic & organic certified. Now his sons are at the helm ,and they’re also keeping with their inherited nautical theme. This bottle is from their Orzada line which translates into: “To sail against the wind”, and the label is “inspired by the movement of water and its energy” which to me is a lovely way to honor their Norwegian (Viking) heritage and their now Chilean roots. 🍇🍷🇳🇴🇨🇱

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A Balancing Act

Alberto Ballarin
Dolcetto d’Alba D.O.C. 2022
100% Dolcetto
Sustainable viticulture
La Morra (CN), Italy
Winemaker & grower: Alberto Ballarin

Shining ruby glass. Breathing in cherry, (Twizzlers too), plum, raspberries, wild strawberry, violets, blueberry, & a light citrus spark on the end that blooms a bit over time. Scents are in the sip joined now with boysenberry, touch of blackberry, & a smidge of orange zest. Absolutely delicious!

Pairs w Cheez-Its: Big YES

Wondering what’s behind the logo on Ballarin’s bottles. Turns out it was inspired by a photo/artwork by Teddy Locquard, & the thoughts/emotions it invoked from Alberto which made him want his own version that would represent his life best. The design depicts a man seated on a tightrope (I can’t imagine how difficult that would be to not fall off) reading a newspaper along w other personal marks of Alberto. This is from his site & sums it all so much better than I could relay. 

“I was able to see myself in that image, suspended between the choices I had to make and those I had already made. Choices that led me to find my personal balance thanks to the possibility that I was given to live through my passions and to love my job. As the Chinese philosopher Confucius reports ‘Do what you love and you will not work a single day of your life’.”

“I therefore decided to include what I consider the essential elements of my life as a producer:

  • the glass of wine: the symbol par excellence of sharing and for me an emblem of leisure, well-being and pleasure;
  • the book: a symbol of knowledge, but above all of the curiosity with which you have to look at every challenge, as the world of wine and its culture are immense and it is impossible to be satisfied with them;
  • the umbrella: representation of the weather and its instability; quality grape bunches and wine cannot be produced without the right weather conditions. Due to its essentiality it could not be missing from my label.”

Means so much more than the steampunk figure, I assumed. Instead it’s is an elegant representation of a passionate, creative & knowledgable winemaker that is Alberto. 🍷❤️

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